Sticky Gear Change
Discussion
I have the above minor issue so done some research and stumbled on an old thread on here, a guy had the same problem and a response said it was probably the rose joint in the gear linkage, mine isn't too bad, it's only stiff trying to pull it out of gear when it's warmed up a bit, my question is, can I access the linkage enough by taking the centre console off and quirt some WD40 in there? That may be enough to help it a bit, WD40 seems to have cured everything else on this car :-)
Cheers
Cheers
No you won’t access it via centre console off.
Probably the only way will be via underneath reaching up around the gearbox.
The fact it only appears when it’s hot suggests something else causing it.
Slave cyl might need bleeding, gearbox oil or even clutch plate worn.
What mileage is on the car.
Probably the only way will be via underneath reaching up around the gearbox.
The fact it only appears when it’s hot suggests something else causing it.
Slave cyl might need bleeding, gearbox oil or even clutch plate worn.
What mileage is on the car.
Under the centre console you can see the TVR contraption that gives you the gear lever position to suit the car.
Mine has a little play in it and I’ve been pondering putting a slightly thicker washer in there to try and tighten it up.
Not sure if that’s a good idea.
But that’s about all you can really see from above.
It’s easy to take the centre console off and have a look, I’m just not sure that applying WD40 to anything there will do much.
Changing the ATF oil in the gearbox is considered to be an annual need (same with diff oil), as they both take a fair bit of vigour.
It’s also worth checking your clutch fluid level and how freely the clutch cylinders move if none of that helps.
I had sticky gears that revealed themselves on one journey, after which I discovered the seals on my clutch master cylinder had failed and there was no fluid in there. New hydraulics solved that (the clutch parts are quite affordable, it was the brake hydraulics that cost a lot more). DIY job.
Following that, I’m not sure, beyond asking a specialist.
And hopefully not having to get into the gearbox itself.
Mine has a little play in it and I’ve been pondering putting a slightly thicker washer in there to try and tighten it up.
Not sure if that’s a good idea.
But that’s about all you can really see from above.
It’s easy to take the centre console off and have a look, I’m just not sure that applying WD40 to anything there will do much.
Changing the ATF oil in the gearbox is considered to be an annual need (same with diff oil), as they both take a fair bit of vigour.
It’s also worth checking your clutch fluid level and how freely the clutch cylinders move if none of that helps.
I had sticky gears that revealed themselves on one journey, after which I discovered the seals on my clutch master cylinder had failed and there was no fluid in there. New hydraulics solved that (the clutch parts are quite affordable, it was the brake hydraulics that cost a lot more). DIY job.
Following that, I’m not sure, beyond asking a specialist.
And hopefully not having to get into the gearbox itself.
Just to clarify my post yesterday, I was talking about the linkage part which is towards the front of the gearbox which slides back and forward and connected to the bull housing ( from memory) via a rose joint type bush.
The T5 does in fact use this linkage system.
I’m not sure about the earlier LT77 box but as your car is a later car it will be the T5 box.
Yes indeed the linkage system the gear stick is connected to has a plastic cup affair which you can get to from gearstick position but I don’t think it’s really accessible enough to do repairs very easily.
I fear it would only be possible by dropping the box to gain reasonable access but having never done it I’d wait until someone else can confirm if it’s possible to effect repairs via the transmission tunnel.
Failing that I’d be talking to a specialist for there advice on the subject.
I seem to remember one owner many years ago cut a hole out said tunnel to gain better access but even then it would be very difficult and I certainly wouldn’t be supporting such an idea. You’d need to glass the section back in afterwards.
The heat from the gearbox will soon dry up any WD40 applied so not really a solution, that’s if it’s the linkage causing it.
There are at least a handful of jobs that are very difficult to do on Tvr simply because of a lack of access and this is definitely one of them
I’d definitely replace gearbox oil and check clutch operation before attempting to go any further.
Bleeding the clutch slave is very simple by the way and yes look at fluid level first.
The T5 does in fact use this linkage system.
I’m not sure about the earlier LT77 box but as your car is a later car it will be the T5 box.
Yes indeed the linkage system the gear stick is connected to has a plastic cup affair which you can get to from gearstick position but I don’t think it’s really accessible enough to do repairs very easily.
I fear it would only be possible by dropping the box to gain reasonable access but having never done it I’d wait until someone else can confirm if it’s possible to effect repairs via the transmission tunnel.
Failing that I’d be talking to a specialist for there advice on the subject.
I seem to remember one owner many years ago cut a hole out said tunnel to gain better access but even then it would be very difficult and I certainly wouldn’t be supporting such an idea. You’d need to glass the section back in afterwards.
The heat from the gearbox will soon dry up any WD40 applied so not really a solution, that’s if it’s the linkage causing it.
There are at least a handful of jobs that are very difficult to do on Tvr simply because of a lack of access and this is definitely one of them
I’d definitely replace gearbox oil and check clutch operation before attempting to go any further.
Bleeding the clutch slave is very simple by the way and yes look at fluid level first.
Sorry I can't reply to individual posts as busy at work, car is a 2000 reg 400 with 62k on the clock, it only sticks trying to pull it out of 3rd and 4th as car warms up, the other gears are fine, I'll try changing oil at some point any recommendations? And how much does it take? Thanks
As I’ve pointed out the linkage is in its most central position so under very little stress going from 3rd to 4th so points at some other reason,
The symptoms you mention suggest gearbox or clutch but by all means try using some liquid grease if it makes you happy.
In fact I’d not take much notice of mine or other comments until you talk to a Tvr or gearbox specialist first.
If all other gears work ok it stands to some reason the linkage is not the problem but no harm in trying to grease it up but WD40 won’t last 5 mins in the hot environment.
The symptoms you mention suggest gearbox or clutch but by all means try using some liquid grease if it makes you happy.
In fact I’d not take much notice of mine or other comments until you talk to a Tvr or gearbox specialist first.
If all other gears work ok it stands to some reason the linkage is not the problem but no harm in trying to grease it up but WD40 won’t last 5 mins in the hot environment.
Andy70 said:
I just wanted to eliminate that remote possibility that's all if I could get to it, then look at the other options
The problem you have is the gear stick rubber will stop reasonable access as it’s pinched to the underside of the tunnel with 4 bolts so the only way I can see how you’d remove that is by dropping gearbox or cutting around it from within the car which would basically destroy it and very hard to find replacements. You’d then have huge amounts of heat from both engine and box coming up and into the car causing a very hot gear knob and quite possibly fumes into the car. A bodge.
You could try and patch it afterwards with more rubber and mastic but just a right mess!
Dropping the box will negate having to touch the gearstick gator at all.
So in view of that the first step would be to check oil/ replace and check clutch operation as a first step, discount any issues there and if it still persists then look at the linkage.
It’s why I’d also now be talking to the specialists who have probably encountered this issue in the past and give the best advice as to what to check first.
The linkage is very difficult to work on from within the car so though it sounds like the easiest option it really is not but it’s worth waiting a bit longer to see what others who might have had a similar issue suggest.
Mine also has a similar issue where the gear shift if noticeably stiffer when the car gets hot, mainly going from 3rd to 4th too.
I recently has the gearbox fluid and slave cylinder replaced by Taylor TVR as part of a service, but the problem still persists. I too, wonder whether the linkage needs greasing. it's a 1998 with only 32k miles.
From the above photo, it appears that the linkage is above the chassis rails, therefore the linkage would need to be disconnected before dropping the gearbox. Surely if there's good enough access to disconnect the linkage before dropping the gearbox, there must be access to grease the linkage without needing to drop the box in the first place?
Andrew.
I recently has the gearbox fluid and slave cylinder replaced by Taylor TVR as part of a service, but the problem still persists. I too, wonder whether the linkage needs greasing. it's a 1998 with only 32k miles.
From the above photo, it appears that the linkage is above the chassis rails, therefore the linkage would need to be disconnected before dropping the gearbox. Surely if there's good enough access to disconnect the linkage before dropping the gearbox, there must be access to grease the linkage without needing to drop the box in the first place?
Andrew.
Refer to my 1st post.
Generally I think you’d disconnect it from the bellhousing then with the white bracket the ball arrangement sits in which is held via a circlip below and offset from the lever itself by removing the bracket from the gearbox via 4 bolts, undo the bolt connecting the linkage to the gearbox arm, box out as now the linkage can move freely upwards and away.
I’ve only done it with body off so easy to remove.
You’ll need the advice of a specialist or other owner who’d done it with body on to be sure.
I think you can grease up the various bushes and links from underneath as I suggested in my first post but without taking it apart not sure how effective that will be.
Edited!
You’ll also notice the bar at the front fits into the linkage bar or tube. This slides forward and back so well worth greasing!
Generally I think you’d disconnect it from the bellhousing then with the white bracket the ball arrangement sits in which is held via a circlip below and offset from the lever itself by removing the bracket from the gearbox via 4 bolts, undo the bolt connecting the linkage to the gearbox arm, box out as now the linkage can move freely upwards and away.
I’ve only done it with body off so easy to remove.
You’ll need the advice of a specialist or other owner who’d done it with body on to be sure.
I think you can grease up the various bushes and links from underneath as I suggested in my first post but without taking it apart not sure how effective that will be.
Edited!
You’ll also notice the bar at the front fits into the linkage bar or tube. This slides forward and back so well worth greasing!
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Wednesday 11th September 08:50
In my '95, with a T5 gearbox:
When you've taken the centre console off, there is another panel of fibreglass that the gear lever and handbrake poke through - rubber gaiters are riveted to this piece of fibreglass. Also the door opener is screwed to it.
This panel is fixed to the main tub with several self tappers around the perimeter of itself, and you need to undo the screws holding the door opener as they go through to the main tub (on my car at least).
You can then lift it up to see the top of the gearbox, the full gear lever and linkage and the handbrake, also see (though not access) the front propshaft UJ.
When I took these photos it was for reference whilst replacing the handbrake cable, and I needed to undo the handbrake lever (two mounting bolts - 13mm and 10mm ring spanner) which meant I could more easily remove the whole panel without having to dismantle the handbrake lever to slip the gaiter off.
Don't laugh at just how faded my carpets were - I've subsequently done something proper about that!
Hopefully that helps to see access.
When you've taken the centre console off, there is another panel of fibreglass that the gear lever and handbrake poke through - rubber gaiters are riveted to this piece of fibreglass. Also the door opener is screwed to it.
This panel is fixed to the main tub with several self tappers around the perimeter of itself, and you need to undo the screws holding the door opener as they go through to the main tub (on my car at least).
You can then lift it up to see the top of the gearbox, the full gear lever and linkage and the handbrake, also see (though not access) the front propshaft UJ.
When I took these photos it was for reference whilst replacing the handbrake cable, and I needed to undo the handbrake lever (two mounting bolts - 13mm and 10mm ring spanner) which meant I could more easily remove the whole panel without having to dismantle the handbrake lever to slip the gaiter off.
Don't laugh at just how faded my carpets were - I've subsequently done something proper about that!
Hopefully that helps to see access.
That’s rather interesting
I wonder if that’s a retro fit or factory spec.
Whatever it’s very useful.
I don’t appear to have that on my 2000 year car but doesn’t mean it’s not done to others.
Now we know this I think it would be worth taking console off to check as it’s a complete ball ache any other way.
Looking at the cut marks it looks like a retro fit but you can’t be sure of anything with TVR from one car to the next.
I wonder if that’s a retro fit or factory spec.
Whatever it’s very useful.
I don’t appear to have that on my 2000 year car but doesn’t mean it’s not done to others.
Now we know this I think it would be worth taking console off to check as it’s a complete ball ache any other way.
Looking at the cut marks it looks like a retro fit but you can’t be sure of anything with TVR from one car to the next.
I had all the console out 2001 450 Chimaera. I'll put a link to the video of me removing it to change the handbrake cable.
Not sure if it will help. There is definately a cover over the gearchange which can be taken of once the main console is removed.
From memory it was self tapping screws & tiger seal (Siko flex)
Steve.
https://youtu.be/0y0JSeTYShI
Not sure if it will help. There is definately a cover over the gearchange which can be taken of once the main console is removed.
From memory it was self tapping screws & tiger seal (Siko flex)
Steve.
https://youtu.be/0y0JSeTYShI
Thanks for all your tips guys, I'll explore every option and keep you posted if anything interesting arises, one stupid point I want to make and I'm sure I'm wrong, so go easy on me, it's just how my small minded logic works, but in my head if it's anything to do with a worn clutch, or anything clutch related resulting in dodgy gear changes, surely that would be a problem at any temp, in every gear? this is specific, without fail as everything warms up in 2 gears, yes good point about changing gear oil, I didn't realise it needed to be done every year, so I'll start there, 1 thread I read regarding a chap who had the same issue, he changed the fluids and added Slick 50 to the box too and he reckoned his gear changes were amazing after, I'm sure mine needs doing any way.... I was just thinking if it was anything to do with worn linkage, then a squirt of something might free it up, then I'd know to go down that route, I was never thinking that would be a cure...WD40 worked on my slow windows, I know there is an underlying issue , but it helps for now until I can get it sorted
Gassing Station | Chimaera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff