Meta Bypass Instructions
Discussion
Belle427 said:
Its the famous Dave Byron one im after from memory, that very short straight to the point one. 
Not anymore.
He expected a full body off level of restoration to his chassis by having the body lifted 6 inches and expecting it to only cost 3k
Then got the hump when he found out that’s never going to happen and sold his car.
At times he did come up with some effective mods and shared them on here but he would argue black was white just cos he says so
I liked him a lot to be honest and indeed his Brembo E 38 brake upgrade thread was very useful in helping me identify exactly what parts I needed to do the job and saved me doing all the research.
I love those brakes as much as any mod on the car and constantly thrill at using them.
£500 all in using new BREMBO 324 mm discs and pads and my calipers £240 from “ Oldphonebloke” were like brand new with what appeared to be new pistons/ seals etc. Stil look like new about 8 years later.
Like you I deleted my by pass instructions
ETA just shy of £400 which I feels a bargain as the sensitivity they provide is lovely.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Thursday 22 August 08:10
Appreciate if you could share the Meta bypass info with me please. Car has been laid up for a bit while my attention was elsewhere, but now retired so getting her mot ready. Long story short, replaced battery, fired up perfectly. Lowered off ramps, went to back out of garage, nothing. Alarm works fine to lock/unlock, but little led on the immobilser key socket by the ignition not blinking, which info on Abacus Alarms website suggests fried immobiliser. Stripped back the dash. Meta M36T plus M99T alarm. Instructions/wiring diagram to bypass would be much appreciated before i start tracing wires in the rats nest under the dash and in the footwell.
[quote=BritishTvr450]
I liked him a lot to be honest and indeed his Brembo E 38 brake upgrade thread was very useful in helping me identify exactly what parts I needed to do the job and saved me doing all the research.
I love those brakes as much as any mod on the car and constantly thrill at using them.
£500 all in using new BREMBO 324 mm discs and pads and my calipers £240 from “ Oldphonebloke” were like brand new with what appeared to be new pistons/ seals etc. Stil look like new about 8 years later.
Hi BritishTvr450, not trying to hi jack the thread. But when you did your brakes was the master cylinder ok . Or did you fit a larger one. My pretty much same mod as yours has given me a long pedal now. Quite usable but just longer than before. Bled whole system 3 times so no air in there. TIA.
Steve.
I liked him a lot to be honest and indeed his Brembo E 38 brake upgrade thread was very useful in helping me identify exactly what parts I needed to do the job and saved me doing all the research.
I love those brakes as much as any mod on the car and constantly thrill at using them.
£500 all in using new BREMBO 324 mm discs and pads and my calipers £240 from “ Oldphonebloke” were like brand new with what appeared to be new pistons/ seals etc. Stil look like new about 8 years later.
Hi BritishTvr450, not trying to hi jack the thread. But when you did your brakes was the master cylinder ok . Or did you fit a larger one. My pretty much same mod as yours has given me a long pedal now. Quite usable but just longer than before. Bled whole system 3 times so no air in there. TIA.
Steve.
steviegtr]ritishTvr450 said:
I liked him a lot to be honest and indeed his Brembo E 38 brake upgrade thread was very useful in helping me identify exactly what parts I needed to do the job and saved me doing all the research.
I love those brakes as much as any mod on the car and constantly thrill at using them.
£500 all in using new BREMBO 324 mm discs and pads and my calipers £240 from “ Oldphonebloke” were like brand new with what appeared to be new pistons/ seals etc. Stil look like new about 8 years later.
Hi BritishTvr450, not trying to hi jack the thread. But when you did your brakes was the master cylinder ok . Or did you fit a larger one. My pretty much same mod as yours has given me a long pedal now. Quite usable but just longer than before. Bled whole system 3 times so no air in there. TIA.
Steve.
Yes the pedal travels further down, about 5-10mm.
I assume it’s just because it’s pushing slightly more fluid down the lines to activate 4 pots rather than 2.
This feels a bit odd after you’re used to the almost rock hard feel of the original Calipers.
I did a body off a few years ago and had to re fill and bleed the whole system again and it’s still about the same.
I can still lock the fronts up if I push to hard so it’s not like I’m running out of brakes and there’s still a considerable amount of travel left on the pedal.
I now don’t even notice it and only when I remind myself of how the old brakes were do I realise it.
I drive upto 50 different sports based cars in my job and many have different levels of pedal travel so I’m quite used to it and just adjust my brain automatically I think!
So when I ran the car for the first time in a few years recently never even considered it to be honest. it felt perfectly normal but as soon as someone else drove it they remarked on how the pedal travels further than there pedal.
I remember also feeling a bit nervous about this when I first changed them for the Brembo but did lots of brake tests at different speeds until i new exactly how far and hard I needed to press them to get lock up including in the rain.
I also remember coming home late at night one time and misjudging a corner and having to use them hard and how much more control I had over them, I remember thinking f
k me I’d have crashed the car on the old brakes that night as it was wet and the old ones lock up very easily.I find the extra bit of pedal travel allows me to regulate the actual brake pressure easier so avoiding locking up.
Funnily enough we have a TVR Tamora at work and it’s brakes feel more like mine do with more pedal travel.
They are AP 4 pot.
What I will say is mine took probably 200 miles to really bed in and work optimally but I put that down to the fact the pads are for a 7 series BMW so they barely touch the discs but slow the car down, i must have done at least 5000 miles on them and the pads are still barely worn so if I ever change them I’d go for a more aggressive compound to cut into the discs slightly more… or do a load of track days which would do the same thing lol.
Funnily enough it was a track day at Blyton park that caused me to replace the old brakes, after about 15 minutes on track braking really heavily they would fade really badly and become next to useless.
I came home and set about changing them that week.
In short try using the car regularly say over one summer and you’ll just forget about it and after a few years won’t even notice.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Saturday 12th October 22:15
Thanks for that BritishTvr450.
The btakes are superb & so much better than the standard setup. The only worry I had was if the MOT guys would crib having the long pedal. Also I have done very little mileage since the conversion so you are spot on the money there. I need to use it more. Sorned for winter now but many plans of runs out next year.
Once again thanks for the input.
Steve.
The btakes are superb & so much better than the standard setup. The only worry I had was if the MOT guys would crib having the long pedal. Also I have done very little mileage since the conversion so you are spot on the money there. I need to use it more. Sorned for winter now but many plans of runs out next year.
Once again thanks for the input.
Steve.
steviegtr said:
Thanks for that BritishTvr450.
The btakes are superb & so much better than the standard setup. The only worry I had was if the MOT guys would crib having the long pedal. Also I have done very little mileage since the conversion so you are spot on the money there. I need to use it more. Sorned for winter now but many plans of runs out next year.
Once again thanks for the input.
Steve.
The btakes are superb & so much better than the standard setup. The only worry I had was if the MOT guys would crib having the long pedal. Also I have done very little mileage since the conversion so you are spot on the money there. I need to use it more. Sorned for winter now but many plans of runs out next year.
Once again thanks for the input.
Steve.
No worries Steve.
Depends on how long your pedal is. As I say mines probably 1/2 inch to maybe an inch by the time they bite.
I think I might have adjusted the pedal to be a bit higher to compensate as they are adjustable via the lock nuts now come to think of it.
If you have time before the MOT I’d drive it and run the brake pedal to get both the discs and pads hot and speed up the bedding in process.
I find they are so effective the discs don’t get very warm unless you really hammer them.
You notice on the standard set up the discs score and groove quite deeply as the Brembo set up put very thin but consistent grooves into the discs very similar to something like big Audi or performance car discs probably due to the fact normal driving doesn’t really put any real pressure on them.
I was driving a McLaren 720S yesterday at high speeds all day on an airfield run way then braking from 130-140 mph down to about 40 mph for a very tight hairpin hundreds of times,, that gets the blighters working I can tell you
When I drove my Tvr home recently after a prolonged lay up then doing a load of work including bleeding the brakes just to check, (no air came out) the first thing I did was test the brakes a good few times at speed, raining too and they felt great and stop the car almost effortlessly so happy they are MOT proficient.
What size discs do you have on yours. Mine are the Ford Focus ST 220 324mm ones as detailed in Chimpongas thread.
This picture is in the summer of 2016 when I’d done about 1000 miles on them and about 4 months after fitting.
Big b
ds ain’t they Edited to add
If you click on the picture then click again you should be able to see them in high definition and zoom in.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Sunday 13th October 21:55
BritishTvr450 said:
This feels a bit odd after you’re used to the almost rock hard feel of the original Calipers.
Oh... is that just how these are? Mine is the only Chimaera I've driven so I don't have another point of reference. I have this voice in the back of my head that thinks I'll have to add a new brake servo to the list of repairs for it, but if TADTS then that's some peace of mind. Edited by BritishTvr450 on Saturday 12th October 22:15
andrewbr said:
Oh... is that just how these are? Mine is the only Chimaera I've driven so I don't have another point of reference. I have this voice in the back of my head that thinks I'll have to add a new brake servo to the list of repairs for it, but if TADTS then that's some peace of mind.
Seems so. That’s the thing, because people are used to the pedal not really being activated very far on standard brakes in normal conditions, when these are fitted it can be a bit unnerving.
The reason why I went for this change was because my standard brakes which worked ok on roads with maybe one emergency stop every blue moon would require huge pedal pressure on say a trackday with many heavy braking zones and even then would fade badly after only 15 mins on track and any longer the fluid was liable to boil.
Since doing the conversation many years ago now and then doing the car experience job as an instructor it dawned on me many cars from different manufactures have differing levels of brake pedal travel for whatever reasons. This has led to me feeling differently about it.
The most important thing was I tested my Brembo brakes many times as if in emergency situations on the same piece of road in all conditions literally dozens of times often in one half hour session trying to get them very hot to replicate brake fade and deliberately push them until they would lock up and until I was satisfied they were safe to use in any situation.
I then happily came to the conclusion I had better control of the brake pressure via my foot with slightly more pedal travel due to the fact I was increasing that brake pressure more incrementally.
I often found with the standard brakes they would lock with less ability for me to tell it was about to happen.
After all this I then finally set the brake pedal slightly higher to compensate the travel which enables me to toe and heel on down shifts which I think is vital on these cars to avoid locking the back wheels up.
So after a few years where I’d not driven my Tvr almost the first thing I did was a number of brake tests to re affirm they work as I remember and yes they do. Exactly the same
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