Rovergauge won't connect - only blinking red light

[THEDAVINATOR]

Good evening everyone, I bought a Rovergauge and installed it on a modernish laptop running windows 10. I followed the excellent instructions to the letter, checked that the lead is using the COM4 port in device manager in windows, and that COM4 shows up in the 'edit settings' in rovergauge, which it does. When I connect the 3 pin lead to the white connector on my Chin and then switch the ignition on and press "connect" in rovergauge, all that happens is the light on the USB cable blinks red - I know it need to flash green to read the ECU. I've tried again and again but to no avail. Am I missing something (start the laptop with the lead plugged in etc)? Also, the white ECU end of the connector had nothing plugged into it - I assume this is normal?

It is of course the white one in the middle of the pic. Any help greatly appreciated - I'm very apprehensive about driving my car again until I can see what's up with it...

[Belle427]

Seems to suggest its not seeing the connection to the Ecu, have a look at the info here toward the bottom of the page.
http://www.g33.co.uk/pages/technical-fuel-injectio...

[RayTVR]

Just check carefully that the three pins have all mated correctly, I spent ages playing about with the computer when it didn't work, only to find one of the pins had 'missed' the connection.

[blaze_away]

RayTVR said:

Just check carefully that the three pins have all mated correctly, I spent ages playing about with the computer when it didn't work, only to find one of the pins had 'missed' the connection.

This is good advice. The pins on the loom plug are made up of 3 male segments and they close up.together. get a small flat blade screwdriver in a prize them very gently apart a little.

[THEDAVINATOR]

Evening everyone, thanks for the tips, I opened the male pins a little on the ECU connector, and cleaned both the pins on the ECU connector and inside the female pins on the rovergauge cable. I've also made sure that all 3 pins are properly engaged numerous times.

It still won't connect to the ECU. Same thing every time- I connect the cable to the ECU connector, turn the ignition on, click 'connect' on rovergauge the red light blinks quickly on the USB cable. The battery is fine, I've just started the car to make sure it wasn't a low battery.

Is there anything else that could prevent Rovergauge
(and the cable) reading the ECU?

[THEDAVINATOR]

Ohhhhhhhh. You're supposed to disarm the immobiliser - d'oh!! I thought I'd try that and it worked straight away! Cool. My Chim idles and drives generally like a bit of a dog - is there anything here that might throw some light on why....

[Belle427]

Start the engine and either film a short video or take some more photos of the values as it warms up

[THEDAVINATOR]

Evening all,

Ok I've finally got round to taking some pics of Rovergauge as my Chim 450 is warming up - I did also take a video - what sites to people here tend to use which I could link a video to? Here are some pics - unfortunately the info here means nothing to me

Edited by THEDAVINATOR on Sunday 1st September 17:48

[Belle427]

What are the symptoms?

[THEDAVINATOR]

Symptoms are:

1) (when engine is cold) unstable idle and wanting to stall when blipping the throttle

2) jerky driving in the lower gears

3) will not idle at all when hot, only way to stop the engine from dying is constantly keep foot on throttle

4) fans come on at weird times (off when at traffic lights, but on when driving)

[blaze_away]

In my opinion I'd suggest doing some very basic checks.

Ignition side
Make sure all your connections are secure, ht leads in good nick rotor and cap, then pull the plugs and set gaps and check they are in good nick also
Then check tdc marks are accurate using a piston stop. Then check and set the timing.

Give it a test.

Then thorough check for vacuum leaks using a smoke tester.

Once that's all done then let's move on to looking at RoverGauge data, I can help with that.

[Zeb74]

Check also the AFM with a basic voltmeter using the method described here https://www.actproducts.co.uk/2011/lucas-14cux-fue...

And test also to run without the sparkplug extensions if you already have them.

[Mutley00]

THEDAVINATOR said:

Symptoms are:

1) (when engine is cold) unstable idle and wanting to stall when blipping the throttle

2) jerky driving in the lower gears

3) will not idle at all when hot, only way to stop the engine from dying is constantly keep foot on throttle

4) fans come on at weird times (off when at traffic lights, but on when driving)

Very very similar to what I was experiencing, which had a TVR specialist scratching his head for a while. Are the engine revs erratic too? Try a new Otter switch.

Edited by Mutley00 on Tuesday 3rd September 09:39

[PabloGee]

There are folk who know how to read the RG log files better than me.
The observation I made was that the idle bypass position (stepper motor) is a long way out, which suggests it's trying to cope with air leaks or maybe the AFM is giving messy readings to the ECU.
Mine sits more like 20-30% when idling, and similar when driving, sometimes down to 10% when driving.

[THEDAVINATOR]

Mutley00 said:

THEDAVINATOR said:

Symptoms are:

1) (when engine is cold) unstable idle and wanting to stall when blipping the throttle

2) jerky driving in the lower gears

3) will not idle at all when hot, only way to stop the engine from dying is constantly keep foot on throttle

4) fans come on at weird times (off when at traffic lights, but on when driving)

Very very similar to what I was experiencing, which had a TVR specialist scratching his head for a while. Are the engine revs erratic too? Try a new Otter switch.

Edited by Mutley00 on Tuesday 3rd September 09:39

Thanks for the replies everyone. I will try everything that's mentioned in the thread - I'll start with the easiest though - this Otter switch. I replaced the ECU coolant sender (same as an XJS apparently) but it didn't make any difference, only a couple of quid so no Biggie - this Otter switch is 30 quid on almost all eBay ads - does anyone know of a reputable company for bits like this or should I just take a chance?

[THEDAVINATOR]

PabloGee said:

There are folk who know how to read the RG log files better than me.
The observation I made was that the idle bypass position (stepper motor) is a long way out, which suggests it's trying to cope with air leaks or maybe the AFM is giving messy readings to the ECU.
Mine sits more like 20-30% when idling, and similar when driving, sometimes down to 10% when driving.

Thanks for this - ill check again for leaks after the AFM - the big hose directly after the AFM is fine, are there any other problems areas for vacuum leaks?

[Belle427]

Usual suspects will have the switch.
https://racetechdirect.co.uk/search.php

[Mutley00]

Ring Chris Noyland at John Ashley Sportscars on 01709 464 418. He is a TVR Heritage Garage,

My recent invoice shows £10.95 for my switch, so he may keep some in stock.

Edited by Mutley00 on Friday 6th September 08:08