1994 Classic - won’t Start - and ideas?

[nigelpugh7]

Hi Guys,

Anyone give me some pointers on this non starting issue please.

1994 Classic Wrx GC8.

Was previously starting and running fine, but has now stopped.

Battery is fully charged, immobiliser is going off, green led for immobiliser comes on the dash.

Engine will crank, but not fire.

I can’t hear the fuel pump running from the back of the car, and I’m sure you could before when turning the ignition on.

I have checked the fuse under dash for fuel pump circuit, and the relay in the engine bay fuse compartment too, both seem fine.

I still suspect it’s an electrical fault somehow, as the fuel gauge does not move, and I have added about 20 litres of fuel to be sure.


Car has not been started for a few weeks, it normally starts first turn of the key.

Any pointers gladly received.

Thanks in adavace.

[nigelpugh7]

Still not found the non starting issue.

But did put the 17 inch wheels I got.

[vxr2010]

From what you are saying , and not hearing the fuel pump prime , which you should hear , it's sounding like a tank electrical supply issue , the fuel pump relays are a weakness maybe worth swapping that out , are all the fuses ok , has the fuel pump connection got a bit corroded worth un plugging and a bit of cleaner , the sender and the fuel pump maybe on the same circuit so issues likely linked , or is it the immobiliser playing up ?

[nigelpugh7]

vxr2010 said:

From what you are saying , and not hearing the fuel pump prime , which you should hear , it's sounding like a tank electrical supply issue , the fuel pump relays are a weakness maybe worth swapping that out , are all the fuses ok , has the fuel pump connection got a bit corroded worth un plugging and a bit of cleaner , the sender and the fuel pump maybe on the same circuit so issues likely linked , or is it the immobiliser playing up ?

Cheers for that feedback bud.

Yes first thing I did was to check all the fuses, and from another forum the advise was that if the fuel pump relay is ticking when you turn on the ignition it’s working ok.

I’m pretty sure the immobiliser is working ok, the red light that shows it’s armed goes to green,and it won’t crank at all if you don’t blip the alarm off.


I’ve checked the fuel pump connector that’s close to the tank in the back seat area, connection looks fine, but there is only 4V there, so that’s part of the problem I think.

[nigelpugh7]

I’ve spent some time on this today.

I used my probe to put voltage to the pump in situ.





Even got a separate 12v battery and wired it direct to the pump via a relay.

It was dead as a dodo.

[nigelpugh7]

Cleaned off the pump access area, and the top of the pump.



It’s a 30 year old motor, so it was a bit dusty and dirty under there.



Used some muc off spray.




The nuts were easy to get off with some Wd40, the pipes not so much.

[nigelpugh7]

And once out it was an easy test to confirm the motor was indeed open circuit.

[nigelpugh7]

Genuine replacement ones are shockingly expensive though!

[nigelpugh7]

Thankfully there are lots of compatible ones.

[TEKNOPUG]

Change the fuel filter while you are at it.

[nigelpugh7]

TEKNOPUG said:

Change the fuel filter while you are at it.

Yes I intend too!

Assuming you mean the one in the engine bay as well as the gauze one attached to the pump!

[rossub]

That BN Europe guy is notorious for pricing things 4x what they should be.

Hardly anyone buys anything from him, but it only takes a gullible few…

[nigelpugh7]

rossub said:

That BN Europe guy is notorious for pricing things 4x what they should be.

Hardly anyone buys anything from him, but it only takes a gullible few…

That’s good know bud, thanks for the heads up!

No way I would ever pay that much though, even if it is OEM and genuine factory part!

[Hol]

Did it work?

[nigelpugh7]

Hi Bud,

Thanks for reaching out!

Nope I’ve not got around to buying a new pump yet, lots of other things to work on first!

I will post an update when I get it done!

Cheers,