base idle set, with mixed results
Discussion
Hi, well I read that info from the other thread to how to tackle it, made up a bung with what I could find around the garage, followed instructions and took car for a spin, what a difference, it was still idling high when engine got hot, but only to 11-1200rpm rather than 15-1700 previously, much more drivable, well done me as I normally wouldn't touch that sort of thing.... However I went home to try to tweak it more, just a tad, fine tuning shall we say and all of a sudden the car wouldn't tick over at all, couldn't get it to run and it almost stank of neat fuel coming out the pipes, so now all of a sudden i was frantically turning the idle screw loads each way to get a reaction but still not ticking over.... the only difference i could think of is should I have tackled it after a long blast when the engine was hot? i just recall the instruction to do it with a "warm" engine, I'm gutted, the problem is this is like computer to me now and technology, its all good when it works, but no idea how to sort things when they don't, however with tech I can get my kids to sort it lol just to add, even when I un-bunged it and replaced everything the car still ran like it did with the bung in, really rich and not ticking over at all, regardless of the extremes either way from my 'tweaking'
Edited by Andy70 on Thursday 1st August 21:08
Edited by Andy70 on Thursday 1st August 21:22
As I mentioned on your other thread. To many possibilities to just try setting things and the base idle is only one of them.
The coil or ignition amp might be playing up when hot.
The temp sensor might be sending spurious readings and the ECU might add or remove fuel because the sensor might be telling it it’s cold or hot. In both cases the Ecu uses fuel to enrichen the mixture and definitely adds fuel to cool the engine if it thinks it’s to hot.
I hope you remembered how many turns of the screw you turned it.
Your keen to get it running but it’s clearly been stood some time.
So many things to consider.
The air flow meter might be knackered and again causing the ECU to adjust fuel settings.
Most if not all these parts are effected by engine bay heat and send the ECU off in all directions trying to adjust the air fuel mix.
Lambda in the exhaust might be fubbered which the Ecu reads and adjusts fuel settings.
All of them may be playing up ( unlikely)
See where I'm going with this.
Your shooting in the dark,
Rovergauge info is simply the first step.
It could be just one part causing all the issues and the less you do now the better until someone scientific has looked at the data.
Go to Facebook when you have ROVERGAUGE and ask on there as well as here.
Join the Chimaera group,
Someone will guide you as to what to do to create a log file. You send it to them and they will look carefully at the data.
Frank for instance has looked at hundreds of these log files and can often identify the issues you face because he has seen the same data from failing cars so many times.
Running the car when it’s obviously not right will make things worse.
The coil or ignition amp might be playing up when hot.
The temp sensor might be sending spurious readings and the ECU might add or remove fuel because the sensor might be telling it it’s cold or hot. In both cases the Ecu uses fuel to enrichen the mixture and definitely adds fuel to cool the engine if it thinks it’s to hot.
I hope you remembered how many turns of the screw you turned it.
Your keen to get it running but it’s clearly been stood some time.
So many things to consider.
The air flow meter might be knackered and again causing the ECU to adjust fuel settings.
Most if not all these parts are effected by engine bay heat and send the ECU off in all directions trying to adjust the air fuel mix.
Lambda in the exhaust might be fubbered which the Ecu reads and adjusts fuel settings.
All of them may be playing up ( unlikely)
See where I'm going with this.
Your shooting in the dark,
Rovergauge info is simply the first step.
It could be just one part causing all the issues and the less you do now the better until someone scientific has looked at the data.
Go to Facebook when you have ROVERGAUGE and ask on there as well as here.
Join the Chimaera group,
Someone will guide you as to what to do to create a log file. You send it to them and they will look carefully at the data.
Frank for instance has looked at hundreds of these log files and can often identify the issues you face because he has seen the same data from failing cars so many times.
Running the car when it’s obviously not right will make things worse.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Thursday 1st August 22:02
BritishTvr450 said:
As I mentioned on your other thread. To many possibilities to just try setting things and the base idle is only one of them.
The coil or ignition amp might be playing up when hot.
The temp sensor might be sending spurious readings and the ECU might add or remove fuel because the sensor might be telling it it’s cold or hot. In both cases the Ecu uses fuel to enrichen the mixture and definitely adds fuel to cool the engine if it thinks it’s to hot.
I hope you remembered how many turns of the screw you turned it.
Your keen to get it running but it’s clearly been stood some time.
So many things to consider.
The air flow meter might be knackered and again causing the ECU to adjust fuel settings.
Most if not all these parts are effected by engine bay heat and send the ECU off in all directions trying to adjust the air fuel mix.
Lambda in the exhaust might be fubbered which the Ecu reads and adjusts fuel settings.
All of them may be playing up ( unlikely)
See where I'm going with this.
Your shooting in the dark,
Rovergauge info is simply the first step.
It could be just one part causing all the issues and the less you do now the better until someone scientific has looked at the data.
Go to Facebook when you have ROVERGAUGE and ask on there as well as here.
Join the Chimaera group,
Someone will guide you as to what to do to create a log file. You send it to them and they will look carefully at the data.
Frank for instance has looked at hundreds of these log files and can often identify the issues you face because he has seen the same data from failing cars so many times.
Running the car when it’s obviously not right will make things worse.
The problem for me is that I've no clue what so ever regarding that sort of thing regarding ROVERGAUAGE, is I know I'll buy it and I'll hold it in my hand and have no clue what to do with it, the ecu is a mass of wires, I've less than no knowledge regarding management so I really now all of a sudden I need to go on facebook, where I'm not a member of and search for something where I've no clue where to search for it etc etc, do you see where I'm at with that sort of thing? if i were to plug it in to the ecu and a screen popped up ad said thats whats wrong with it then happy days, but to me it, I'm completely blind to that, i can muck my way through some mechanical issues on a car but thats my limit as I'm now screwed cos I've doe something that I can't undo, unless a cooler engine may reset stuff, I remember steves vid regarding this said the allen key should be set about 2 and a half turns open, from fully shut or something, I just kow unfortunately I wouldn't know how to work itThe coil or ignition amp might be playing up when hot.
The temp sensor might be sending spurious readings and the ECU might add or remove fuel because the sensor might be telling it it’s cold or hot. In both cases the Ecu uses fuel to enrichen the mixture and definitely adds fuel to cool the engine if it thinks it’s to hot.
I hope you remembered how many turns of the screw you turned it.
Your keen to get it running but it’s clearly been stood some time.
So many things to consider.
The air flow meter might be knackered and again causing the ECU to adjust fuel settings.
Most if not all these parts are effected by engine bay heat and send the ECU off in all directions trying to adjust the air fuel mix.
Lambda in the exhaust might be fubbered which the Ecu reads and adjusts fuel settings.
All of them may be playing up ( unlikely)
See where I'm going with this.
Your shooting in the dark,
Rovergauge info is simply the first step.
It could be just one part causing all the issues and the less you do now the better until someone scientific has looked at the data.
Go to Facebook when you have ROVERGAUGE and ask on there as well as here.
Join the Chimaera group,
Someone will guide you as to what to do to create a log file. You send it to them and they will look carefully at the data.
Frank for instance has looked at hundreds of these log files and can often identify the issues you face because he has seen the same data from failing cars so many times.
Running the car when it’s obviously not right will make things worse.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Thursday 1st August 22:02
My point being I'll be spending more time searching about how to work the ROVERGAUAGE and where to get the help as to what to do, it would be easier to take it to the garage, which is what I intended to do any way, I was merely trying to resolve as many small issues as i could before i took it to my mechanic, but somehow I've made it worse for myself, Ill try again in the morning and see what happens, if no joy I'll wait for him to get back off his hols
Andy70 said:
The problem for me is that I've no clue what so ever regarding that sort of thing regarding ROVERGAUAGE, is I know I'll buy it and I'll hold it in my hand and have no clue what to do with it, the ecu is a mass of wires, I've less than no knowledge regarding management so I really now all of a sudden I need to go on facebook, where I'm not a member of and search for something where I've no clue where to search for it etc etc, do you see where I'm at with that sort of thing? if i were to plug it in to the ecu and a screen popped up ad said thats whats wrong with it then happy days, but to me it, I'm completely blind to that, i can muck my way through some mechanical issues on a car but thats my limit as I'm now screwed cos I've doe something that I can't undo, unless a cooler engine may reset stuff, I remember steves vid regarding this said the allen key should be set about 2 and a half turns open, from fully shut or something, I just kow unfortunately I wouldn't know how to work it
I have Rovergauge and a laptop and am 45 mins away from Bristol if you need someone to plug it in and generate a file for you. You can then post it on here or on FB where someone can assess it etcbob-bobberson said:
Andy70 said:
The problem for me is that I've no clue what so ever regarding that sort of thing regarding ROVERGAUAGE, is I know I'll buy it and I'll hold it in my hand and have no clue what to do with it, the ecu is a mass of wires, I've less than no knowledge regarding management so I really now all of a sudden I need to go on facebook, where I'm not a member of and search for something where I've no clue where to search for it etc etc, do you see where I'm at with that sort of thing? if i were to plug it in to the ecu and a screen popped up ad said thats whats wrong with it then happy days, but to me it, I'm completely blind to that, i can muck my way through some mechanical issues on a car but thats my limit as I'm now screwed cos I've doe something that I can't undo, unless a cooler engine may reset stuff, I remember steves vid regarding this said the allen key should be set about 2 and a half turns open, from fully shut or something, I just kow unfortunately I wouldn't know how to work it
I have Rovergauge and a laptop and am 45 mins away from Bristol if you need someone to plug it in and generate a file for you. You can then post it on here or on FB where someone can assess it etcbob-bobberson said:
I have Rovergauge and a laptop and am 45 mins away from Bristol if you need someone to plug it in and generate a file for you. You can then post it on here or on FB where someone can assess it etc
^^^^^ this.
You’ll soon see it’s nothing like as difficult as you might think. .I started just like you knowing sweet FA about these cars, we all do.
It’s important to listen to advice gained through many growing pains so you don’t have too.
I’m also completely useless with computers.
I can honestly say without the help and support of others on pistonheads and friends I’ve gained on here I’d have never got past 6 months owning a TVR.
Even today some 15 years later I rely on advice from well tested TVR brains before I ever try to do anything.
It’s sometimes expensive but I also believe it’s good to use your local TVR experts before entrusting the cars with any other mechanics.
These cars are not your normal run of the mill and few people other than experts truly understand them.
Let’s be clear, the mechanicals of the car are actually basic but fault diagnosis takes experienced people to get to the bottom of things quickly.
By all means use your man but if he’s not sure walk away and take it to people who do.
You have bought what is possibly a 25 year old car that’s not in very good health.
What you need to do is read the advice carefully and take heed of it.
If you want help you need to do that more than anything else.
If I know you like I know myself your desperate to make the car good which leads to not listening and trying to fix it as fast as possible so you can get out there using it.
You have bought what amounts to a project car by all accounts.
Please take a step back, relax and be patient.
If you do this right your car will be working sooner than you think and indeed you can enjoy what is possibly one of the best driving cars on the road.
It may take time though.
The first step is to take up the extremely kind offer your first TVR friend has offered you and let him plug his RG into your car.
Polish the f
ker while your waiting.
Have fun buddy
Have you thought about taking it to a specialist who will carry the known good spares to be able to diagnose it?
Ok it will cost you some money but give you less of a headache.
This gentlemen is highly respected here and carries out management conversions so may have the spares in stock, also a rolling road setup is never a bad idea.
http://www.kitsandclassics.co.uk/
May be a bit of a journey but well worth it.
Understood if you want to try your local guy but in depth knowledge of the 14cux is a better bet.
Im near Newport if you wanted a hand with anything and although not a mechanic ive worked on my own stuff for 30 years.
Ok it will cost you some money but give you less of a headache.
This gentlemen is highly respected here and carries out management conversions so may have the spares in stock, also a rolling road setup is never a bad idea.
http://www.kitsandclassics.co.uk/
May be a bit of a journey but well worth it.
Understood if you want to try your local guy but in depth knowledge of the 14cux is a better bet.
Im near Newport if you wanted a hand with anything and although not a mechanic ive worked on my own stuff for 30 years.
Belle427 said:
Have you thought about taking it to a specialist who will carry the known good spares to be able to diagnose it?
Ok it will cost you some money but give you less of a headache.
This gentlemen is highly respected here and carries out management conversions so may have the spares in stock, also a rolling road setup is never a bad idea.
http://www.kitsandclassics.co.uk/
May be a bit of a journey but well worth it.
Understood if you want to try your local guy but in depth knowledge of the 14cux is a better bet.
Im near Newport if you wanted a hand with anything and although not a mechanic ive worked on my own stuff for 30 years.
The mechanic I was taking it to is on his hols now for 10 days, he knows these things pretty well, I was just trying to sort what I could out before I took it to him, it was going in any way, with regards specialists I have TVRSW just down the m5 and Lloyd specialist developments the same distance just the other direction, however it isn't going any where unless I can get it going, somehow by seemingly doing nothing I've buggered it right upOk it will cost you some money but give you less of a headache.
This gentlemen is highly respected here and carries out management conversions so may have the spares in stock, also a rolling road setup is never a bad idea.
http://www.kitsandclassics.co.uk/
May be a bit of a journey but well worth it.
Understood if you want to try your local guy but in depth knowledge of the 14cux is a better bet.
Im near Newport if you wanted a hand with anything and although not a mechanic ive worked on my own stuff for 30 years.
BritishTvr450 said:
bob-bobberson said:
I have Rovergauge and a laptop and am 45 mins away from Bristol if you need someone to plug it in and generate a file for you. You can then post it on here or on FB where someone can assess it etc
^^^^^ this.
You’ll soon see it’s nothing like as difficult as you might think. .I started just like you knowing sweet FA about these cars, we all do.
It’s important to listen to advice gained through many growing pains so you don’t have too.
I’m also completely useless with computers.
I can honestly say without the help and support of others on pistonheads and friends I’ve gained on here I’d have never got past 6 months owning a TVR.
Even today some 15 years later I rely on advice from well tested TVR brains before I ever try to do anything.
It’s sometimes expensive but I also believe it’s good to use your local TVR experts before entrusting the cars with any other mechanics.
These cars are not your normal run of the mill and few people other than experts truly understand them.
Let’s be clear, the mechanicals of the car are actually basic but fault diagnosis takes experienced people to get to the bottom of things quickly.
By all means use your man but if he’s not sure walk away and take it to people who do.
You have bought what is possibly a 25 year old car that’s not in very good health.
What you need to do is read the advice carefully and take heed of it.
If you want help you need to do that more than anything else.
If I know you like I know myself your desperate to make the car good which leads to not listening and trying to fix it as fast as possible so you can get out there using it.
You have bought what amounts to a project car by all accounts.
Please take a step back, relax and be patient.
If you do this right your car will be working sooner than you think and indeed you can enjoy what is possibly one of the best driving cars on the road.
It may take time though.
The first step is to take up the extremely kind offer your first TVR friend has offered you and let him plug his RG into your car.
Polish the f
ker while your waiting.Have fun buddy
As Bobberson says, he will very kindly run a RoverGauge logfile and get it to me by email and I will let you know what's going on there.
From you description it sounds like either an ignition issue or vacuum leak or a component eg MAF sensor, failing. But before guessing our way through this let's gets some data.
From you description it sounds like either an ignition issue or vacuum leak or a component eg MAF sensor, failing. But before guessing our way through this let's gets some data.
In case you decide to get RoverGauge yourself:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315507761855?mkcid=16&a...
And the software is free, runs best on a PC (laptop so you can use it in the car). Instructions on using it are provided - it’s very simple.
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge/releas...
Just need to download and install one of these two (depending on the spec of your laptop, which you can find out by googling it)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/315507761855?mkcid=16&a...
And the software is free, runs best on a PC (laptop so you can use it in the car). Instructions on using it are provided - it’s very simple.
https://github.com/colinbourassa/rovergauge/releas...
Just need to download and install one of these two (depending on the spec of your laptop, which you can find out by googling it)
There you go Andy
I mentioned a car with 250,000 miles on it.
I’ve been in it recently and on the original ignition and fuelling system it runs just as good as mine on an expensive modern system
Blaze away is his name.
Get those files over to him
Best of luck as we are all pleased you have bought the car.
I mentioned a car with 250,000 miles on it.
I’ve been in it recently and on the original ignition and fuelling system it runs just as good as mine on an expensive modern system
Blaze away is his name.
Get those files over to him
Best of luck as we are all pleased you have bought the car.
Belle427 said:
I think I remember reading that the air bypass screw you adjusted should be around 2.5 turns out as a guideline before carrying put the base idle setting.
Does the throttle body look fairly clean when you look inside it with air intake pipe removed?
Yep thanks I read that somewhere, that is where I set it as by the time I finished playing last night it was all over the place, I've had a quick peak in the throttle body and seems to look ok, I'll get the torch out and have a closer lookDoes the throttle body look fairly clean when you look inside it with air intake pipe removed?
bob-bobberson said:
Andy - I did message you through here, but no idea if it worked. PH isn't at the cutting edge of forum technologies...
Let me know if you got it or not
I see you're a welder/fabricator - maybe you can help me get the seatbelt bolt I sheared off out
Let me know if you got it or not
I see you're a welder/fabricator - maybe you can help me get the seatbelt bolt I sheared off out
yes i did reply, well half a message, I just finished it off now, yeah I'll try and help with that, I need to try ad knock some extensions too as my seatbelt is so close to the carpet, it doesn't retract back, I'm sure I never had this problem with my last one, or maybe I did ....
blaze_away said:
As Bobberson says, he will very kindly run a RoverGauge logfile and get it to me by email and I will let you know what's going on there.
From you description it sounds like either an ignition issue or vacuum leak or a component eg MAF sensor, failing. But before guessing our way through this let's gets some data.
Yeah, we'll get there in the endFrom you description it sounds like either an ignition issue or vacuum leak or a component eg MAF sensor, failing. But before guessing our way through this let's gets some data.
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