What to look out for?
Discussion
I'm considering a mid life crisis car and a TVR Chimera 5.0 HC is one of the cars on the list.
Currently I run a 3 series daily driver, a Mini Cooper S Convertible which is the Mrs' motor and a Suziki Hayabusa which is just not getting used that much because I won't drive it in the rain or when it's too warm.
I do all the work on these vehicles so I'm happy gettting my hands dirty.
As far as the Chimera is concerned I really don't know much about them but I love the look of them and they're in my budget.
The question I have is what do I need to know about them in terms of common issues, points to look out for and specific issues with the engine?
Thanks in advance
Currently I run a 3 series daily driver, a Mini Cooper S Convertible which is the Mrs' motor and a Suziki Hayabusa which is just not getting used that much because I won't drive it in the rain or when it's too warm.
I do all the work on these vehicles so I'm happy gettting my hands dirty.
As far as the Chimera is concerned I really don't know much about them but I love the look of them and they're in my budget.
The question I have is what do I need to know about them in terms of common issues, points to look out for and specific issues with the engine?
Thanks in advance
Engines are normally resilient but Cams can be worn at 50,000 miles which leads to a slight loss in power but easy to replace and more often than not they have been.
Ignition system tends to be problematic through age and heat which can effect the reliability of air flow meters, coils and plug leads/ distributor cap rotor arm and ignition modules.
Alarm immobilisers can and often do fail. They can be by passed or replaced.
The biggest issue is then finding good new parts to replace them.
Differentials tend to get a bit loose with age.
Headlight reflector silvering dulls off leading to poor performance and hard to get reflectors.
Mostly the chassis is the main problem that can rust especially on the sections of outrigger tubes that run along the body under the car.
Often muck gets trapped and causes major rotting of those tubes in the places you can’t see.
The tubes often look sound when viewed from beneath the car but are often found to be perished to a dangerous degree on the top side and hidden by the body.
This can only be addressed by lifting the body to effect repair usually by replacing the complete outrigger tubes or doing a full body off repair that can also attend to other areas of the chassis that corrode.
Fuel lines run up past gearbox to top of the engine and do a tight turn to connect to fuel rail and are often found to be splitting and perished which has been known to cause fires and total loss of the car.
A well cared for example would usually have all this list attended too so not a problem and much of it would come under the servicing of the car.
Power steering racks can eventually fail which can be serviced but no new racks are available so if yours is beyond repair it’s a major issue to replace with usually a Suburu rack which also requires some re engineering to fit. You can sometimes get a decent second hand TVR rack from TVR breakers but they are increasingly becoming more rare.
These are the usual suspects that have surfaced after 30years of the cars lives but by no means suggests they are all like this.
Experience tells us you are better off paying a bit more for a car with most if not all these things replaced or repaired as even home DIY repairing can cost a fortune over time unless you are very hands on.
Cars that have stood for years tend to be the most problematic and costly to repair and regular use is overall far better for the cars reliability.
So low mileage cars can be more frustrating to own than higher mileage examples that have been constantly serviced/ repaired and kept in tip top condition to maintain reliability.
Some cars have done as much as 250,000 miles so don’t be put off with this list.
It’s just an example of what to look out for based on cars that have been operating for two or three decades now.
Ignition system tends to be problematic through age and heat which can effect the reliability of air flow meters, coils and plug leads/ distributor cap rotor arm and ignition modules.
Alarm immobilisers can and often do fail. They can be by passed or replaced.
The biggest issue is then finding good new parts to replace them.
Differentials tend to get a bit loose with age.
Headlight reflector silvering dulls off leading to poor performance and hard to get reflectors.
Mostly the chassis is the main problem that can rust especially on the sections of outrigger tubes that run along the body under the car.
Often muck gets trapped and causes major rotting of those tubes in the places you can’t see.
The tubes often look sound when viewed from beneath the car but are often found to be perished to a dangerous degree on the top side and hidden by the body.
This can only be addressed by lifting the body to effect repair usually by replacing the complete outrigger tubes or doing a full body off repair that can also attend to other areas of the chassis that corrode.
Fuel lines run up past gearbox to top of the engine and do a tight turn to connect to fuel rail and are often found to be splitting and perished which has been known to cause fires and total loss of the car.
A well cared for example would usually have all this list attended too so not a problem and much of it would come under the servicing of the car.
Power steering racks can eventually fail which can be serviced but no new racks are available so if yours is beyond repair it’s a major issue to replace with usually a Suburu rack which also requires some re engineering to fit. You can sometimes get a decent second hand TVR rack from TVR breakers but they are increasingly becoming more rare.
These are the usual suspects that have surfaced after 30years of the cars lives but by no means suggests they are all like this.
Experience tells us you are better off paying a bit more for a car with most if not all these things replaced or repaired as even home DIY repairing can cost a fortune over time unless you are very hands on.
Cars that have stood for years tend to be the most problematic and costly to repair and regular use is overall far better for the cars reliability.
So low mileage cars can be more frustrating to own than higher mileage examples that have been constantly serviced/ repaired and kept in tip top condition to maintain reliability.
Some cars have done as much as 250,000 miles so don’t be put off with this list.
It’s just an example of what to look out for based on cars that have been operating for two or three decades now.
There is an official Pistonheads buying guide which is useful.
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-gui...
Chassis and outriggers are probably the most important thing in terms of costs and expertise required to repair.
Rover V8 engine's are reliable, lends itself to some self tinkering if you like to do that. Otherwise servicing and repairs available via specialists.
Most parts are not expensive i.e. brake pads and discs, oil filter, air filter etc. Probably on par with a normal 3 series and much cheaper than a E90 M3 or the first generation M4.
https://www.pistonheads.com/features/ph-buying-gui...
Chassis and outriggers are probably the most important thing in terms of costs and expertise required to repair.
Rover V8 engine's are reliable, lends itself to some self tinkering if you like to do that. Otherwise servicing and repairs available via specialists.
Most parts are not expensive i.e. brake pads and discs, oil filter, air filter etc. Probably on par with a normal 3 series and much cheaper than a E90 M3 or the first generation M4.
If you do buy one budget to send it off and get a modern engine management system installed.
You will not regret it, you only have to spend 5 mins here looking at the threads on misfires and poor running to give you an idea of what can happen.
Same goes for the immobiliser, either upgrade it yourself or bypass it and be done with it.
Both very common and annoying issues.
You will not regret it, you only have to spend 5 mins here looking at the threads on misfires and poor running to give you an idea of what can happen.
Same goes for the immobiliser, either upgrade it yourself or bypass it and be done with it.
Both very common and annoying issues.
Belle427 said:
If you do buy one budget to send it off and get a modern engine management system installed.
You will not regret it, you only have to spend 5 mins here looking at the threads on misfires and poor running to give you an idea of what can happen.
Same goes for the immobiliser, either upgrade it yourself or bypass it and be done with it.
Both very common and annoying issues.
If it’s a keeper replacing the engine management is the single greatest change that will create long term reliability and remove what are basic running issues that cause trouble. You will not regret it, you only have to spend 5 mins here looking at the threads on misfires and poor running to give you an idea of what can happen.
Same goes for the immobiliser, either upgrade it yourself or bypass it and be done with it.
Both very common and annoying issues.
It’s not that the original system is bad it’s more age and poor replacement parts that cause most of the problems.
It’s easy to get unnerved or stressed over such things but in reality most cars are still working well.
This upgrade just makes the car more usable and gives you the confidence to trust it on longer journeys allowing you to use it more like a modern car and drive anywhere.
I did around 3000 miles on a trip abroad within a few weeks of my car having this upgrade and the confidence it gave me was priceless.
Some 10 years later it’s still faultless and I’ve not had to replace any part of it since. Starts within 2 or three seconds and idles perfectly at 750 revs which is much better to use than the standard system that idles at 900 revs.
If it’s had chassis work already done or is shown to be in good condition ( via photos ) this addition takes the car to another level.
My personal opinion is I’d never go back and if I started again with another car I’d only buy one with the chassis repaired or shown to be rust free and then I’d replace the management system to maximise the enjoyment these cars can bring. That’s assuming the car is in very good condition to start with.
It’s by no means a definitive answer and many owners with original parts find there cars are also largely reliable.
It’s just more desirable and overtime can be a very cost effective upgrade if you intend to use the car daily or as often as you can.
These cars are better off being used as much as possible and often maintain a higher level of reliability if they are.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Tuesday 30th July 07:46
I would add that the OP hade emphasis of a 5.0 HC. All 500s are HC, do not be persuaded to pay extra for this. The only cars that had more power that standard were the 400 HC cars in the early cars until about 1996.
Brake discs and pads requiring replacement are all Ford parts so are cheap IME. If on original wheels, the choice of 15" tyres for the front in the correct speed rating is very hard to find. Many put bigger wheels on, which leads to bigger brake discs for aesthetic reasons, and then you're on the slippery slope of wallet raiding...
Brake discs and pads requiring replacement are all Ford parts so are cheap IME. If on original wheels, the choice of 15" tyres for the front in the correct speed rating is very hard to find. Many put bigger wheels on, which leads to bigger brake discs for aesthetic reasons, and then you're on the slippery slope of wallet raiding...
BritishTvr450 said:
Belle427 said:
If you do buy one budget to send it off and get a modern engine management system installed.
You will not regret it, you only have to spend 5 mins here looking at the threads on misfires and poor running to give you an idea of what can happen.
Same goes for the immobiliser, either upgrade it yourself or bypass it and be done with it.
Both very common and annoying issues.
If it’s a keeper replacing the engine management is the single greatest change that will create long term reliability and remove what are basic running issues that cause trouble. You will not regret it, you only have to spend 5 mins here looking at the threads on misfires and poor running to give you an idea of what can happen.
Same goes for the immobiliser, either upgrade it yourself or bypass it and be done with it.
Both very common and annoying issues.
It’s not that the original system is bad it’s more age and poor replacement parts that cause most of the problems.
It’s easy to get unnerved or stressed over such things but in reality most cars are still working well.
This upgrade just makes the car more usable and gives you the confidence to trust it on longer journeys allowing you to use it more like a modern car and drive anywhere.
I did around 3000 miles on a trip abroad within a few weeks of my car having this upgrade and the confidence it gave me was priceless.
Some 10 years later it’s still faultless and I’ve not had to replace any part of it since. Starts within 2 or three seconds and idles perfectly at 750 revs which is much better to use than the standard system that idles at 900 revs.
If it’s had chassis work already done or is shown to be in good condition ( via photos ) this addition takes the car to another level.
My personal opinion is I’d never go back and if I started again with another car I’d only buy one with the chassis repaired or shown to be rust free and then I’d replace the management system to maximise the enjoyment these cars can bring. That’s assuming the car is in very good condition to start with.
It’s by no means a definitive answer and many owners with original parts find there cars are also largely reliable.
It’s just more desirable and overtime can be a very cost effective upgrade if you intend to use the car daily or as often as you can.
These cars are better off being used as much as possible and often maintain a higher level of reliability if they are.
Edited by BritishTvr450 on Tuesday 30th July 07:46
The upgrade to aftermarket management replaces the Ecu, its associated wiring and the distributor system in favour of modern coilpacks.
If you had the skills to Diy it you could have a fully fitted and working system for £1000, getting it done for you will up that to roughly £2500.
May seem like a lot but if you intend to keep the car it is money well spent.
You can go down a very large rabbit hole with these cars spending wise so just be careful and try and decide what the future holds for you.
Buying cheap isnt always good especially if you dont really have the skills to do most of the work.
If you had the skills to Diy it you could have a fully fitted and working system for £1000, getting it done for you will up that to roughly £2500.
May seem like a lot but if you intend to keep the car it is money well spent.
You can go down a very large rabbit hole with these cars spending wise so just be careful and try and decide what the future holds for you.
Buying cheap isnt always good especially if you dont really have the skills to do most of the work.
Belle427 said:
The upgrade to aftermarket management replaces the Ecu, its associated wiring and the distributor system in favour of modern coilpacks.
If you had the skills to Diy it you could have a fully fitted and working system for £1000, getting it done for you will up that to roughly £2500.
May seem like a lot but if you intend to keep the car it is money well spent.
You can go down a very large rabbit hole with these cars spending wise so just be careful and try and decide what the future holds for you.
Buying cheap isnt always good especially if you dont really have the skills to do most of the work.
Agreed, thats the route i was looking to go down long before I bought this one, In fact it was even an upgrade when I had my last one 15 years ago, Dulford talked about it, using coil packs etc from a Mondeo, £600 quid then, but I suppose the mark up has gone up more than the cost as it was proven to be successful. If you had the skills to Diy it you could have a fully fitted and working system for £1000, getting it done for you will up that to roughly £2500.
May seem like a lot but if you intend to keep the car it is money well spent.
You can go down a very large rabbit hole with these cars spending wise so just be careful and try and decide what the future holds for you.
Buying cheap isnt always good especially if you dont really have the skills to do most of the work.
Edited by Andy70 on Saturday 3rd August 11:37
Edited by Andy70 on Saturday 3rd August 11:40
I keep flirting with a DIY install of MegaSquirt, anticipating around £1k for the kit plus replacement loom.
Then maybe another £250-300 for new injectors.
Then a journey on learning how to map it.
But maybe that’s part of the fun, and I’m not expecting it to do much to the performance, just running smooth.
I’m only holding back because my car is running well, so the impetus is low at the moment.
Then maybe another £250-300 for new injectors.
Then a journey on learning how to map it.
But maybe that’s part of the fun, and I’m not expecting it to do much to the performance, just running smooth.
I’m only holding back because my car is running well, so the impetus is low at the moment.
Its a very interesting project but i did find it a little frustrating as it was a steep learning curve getting to know all the settings. The cold start adjustments can be tricky to get spot on as you only get one chance a day really.
I bought from a company called Extra Efi who are very good and helpful and also got a very good guy to map it on the road for me.
The kit comes loaded with a base map to get you started and driving, there are some initial checks to do regarding the timing but nothing too scary.
It does have an autotune feature that allows you to drive while it adjusts for you and that is actually very good at what it does.
Id always want to finalise it on a rolling road personally though.
I bought from a company called Extra Efi who are very good and helpful and also got a very good guy to map it on the road for me.
The kit comes loaded with a base map to get you started and driving, there are some initial checks to do regarding the timing but nothing too scary.
It does have an autotune feature that allows you to drive while it adjusts for you and that is actually very good at what it does.
Id always want to finalise it on a rolling road personally though.
Belle427 said:
Its a very interesting project but i did find it a little frustrating as it was a steep learning curve getting to know all the settings. The cold start adjustments can be tricky to get spot on as you only get one chance a day really.
I bought from a company called Extra Efi who are very good and helpful and also got a very good guy to map it on the road for me.
The kit comes loaded with a base map to get you started and driving, there are some initial checks to do regarding the timing but nothing too scary.
It does have an autotune feature that allows you to drive while it adjusts for you and that is actually very good at what it does.
Id always want to finalise it on a rolling road personally though.
Which version did you get, and why?I bought from a company called Extra Efi who are very good and helpful and also got a very good guy to map it on the road for me.
The kit comes loaded with a base map to get you started and driving, there are some initial checks to do regarding the timing but nothing too scary.
It does have an autotune feature that allows you to drive while it adjusts for you and that is actually very good at what it does.
Id always want to finalise it on a rolling road personally though.
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