2019 SVR won’t start, stuck in Europe!
Discussion
Hello everyone, new to the forum. Recently got back into cars due to a growing family after years on bikes.
I’ve got a 2019 Range Rover SVR, it’s been brilliant up until now and I’m in a right pickle!
I’ll try and keep it short and and sweet. I’ve travelled to Romania from England to see family, car has been perfect (was fully serviced by my local specialist who I know well) and he was impressed by the comprehensive history and short service intervals etc, he says it’s been well looked after. Covered 30k miles.
I left family after a 10 day stay driving locally (temperature has been over 40 degrees C if that makes any difference) and drive about a mile down the road to get a drink for the long drive home, as I pulled up the car spluttered and stalled.
I’m always careful where I fill up and use premium grade fuel, in Europe it’s 100 hopefully this is ok?
I tried to start it again and again but just cranks over, it was trying to start but was as if there was not enough gas so I’m assuming the ignition side of things are ok.
I managed to get recovered locally back to my families place by an independent (I have European breakdown cover and autoguard warranty which are absolutely s***!)
No warning lights present (maybe because the car doesn’t start?) I borrowed a code reader and it’s showing P0230 which is relating to primary fuel circuit.
So I’ve investigated as best as possible, suspected fuel pump failure. I removed the fuel lines from the engine which I believe are supposed to be pressurised all of the time and there was no pressure, just a tiny dribble came out.
Cranked the engine with the hoses into a bottle - nothing.
Removed the rear seats to access the in tank fuel pump, turn on ignition and crank over - can’t hear the fuel pump priming.
Checked the relay in the load space which makes ‘click’ sound.
I borrowed a multimeter and there is voltage at the pump when I try to crank but I do not have any knowledge of auto electrics so other than getting approx 12 volts dc I’m not sure what I’m actually testing.
I’ve removed the retaining ring and the entire in tank fuel pump, nothing obvious, fuel tank and the pump filter are immaculate and over half a tank of fuel there.
The motor for the pump has 4 connections.
I’ve energised the pump from a separate battery to test it it pulses only but does not spin - I’d expect it should spin quite fast and be difficult to hold onto due to centrifugal force?
So with my limited knowledge and tools available I’ve narrowed this down to the fuel pump being at fault.
Firstly I’m just wondering what everyone’s thoughts are for the diagnosis?
My predicament is do I purchase a replacement fuel pump and fit it myself? Is any specialist equipment required to program the pump to the car or is it plug and play?
The reason I am leaning toward doing it myself is that the European cover is a joke, they will recover to a compound, then to a local garage for diagnosis and then potentially recover back to England (this process can be up to 6 weeks!). In my Romanian families words “don’t let anyone in Romania work on or handle your car”.
The other “European cover” that I have does not cover my size vehicle for recovery anywhere - stupidly I did not see this in the small print when I was mis sold it as an alternative to dealer warranty, apparently autoguard is more comprehensive! This is a lesson for me.
My other option is to have the car recovered back to England at my own expense which is approximately £3k with CMG recovery, I don’t mind paying this if it keeps my car safe and gets it sorted.
I’m confident in replacing the pump as long as there is no specialist software needed. That is the decision maker. I’ve ruled out letting any warranty company instruct anyone to handle my car. I’m willing to take the cost of recovery on the chin, this can be done in a timely manner.
Using the main dealer is an absolute pain in the ass at the best of times no matter which country you are in so I steer clear of them whenever possible!
Sorry for the waffle but I feel it’s important to get the full story across. Had I been in the UK the decision would have been so much easier to make.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Chris
I’ve got a 2019 Range Rover SVR, it’s been brilliant up until now and I’m in a right pickle!
I’ll try and keep it short and and sweet. I’ve travelled to Romania from England to see family, car has been perfect (was fully serviced by my local specialist who I know well) and he was impressed by the comprehensive history and short service intervals etc, he says it’s been well looked after. Covered 30k miles.
I left family after a 10 day stay driving locally (temperature has been over 40 degrees C if that makes any difference) and drive about a mile down the road to get a drink for the long drive home, as I pulled up the car spluttered and stalled.
I’m always careful where I fill up and use premium grade fuel, in Europe it’s 100 hopefully this is ok?
I tried to start it again and again but just cranks over, it was trying to start but was as if there was not enough gas so I’m assuming the ignition side of things are ok.
I managed to get recovered locally back to my families place by an independent (I have European breakdown cover and autoguard warranty which are absolutely s***!)
No warning lights present (maybe because the car doesn’t start?) I borrowed a code reader and it’s showing P0230 which is relating to primary fuel circuit.
So I’ve investigated as best as possible, suspected fuel pump failure. I removed the fuel lines from the engine which I believe are supposed to be pressurised all of the time and there was no pressure, just a tiny dribble came out.
Cranked the engine with the hoses into a bottle - nothing.
Removed the rear seats to access the in tank fuel pump, turn on ignition and crank over - can’t hear the fuel pump priming.
Checked the relay in the load space which makes ‘click’ sound.
I borrowed a multimeter and there is voltage at the pump when I try to crank but I do not have any knowledge of auto electrics so other than getting approx 12 volts dc I’m not sure what I’m actually testing.
I’ve removed the retaining ring and the entire in tank fuel pump, nothing obvious, fuel tank and the pump filter are immaculate and over half a tank of fuel there.
The motor for the pump has 4 connections.
I’ve energised the pump from a separate battery to test it it pulses only but does not spin - I’d expect it should spin quite fast and be difficult to hold onto due to centrifugal force?
So with my limited knowledge and tools available I’ve narrowed this down to the fuel pump being at fault.
Firstly I’m just wondering what everyone’s thoughts are for the diagnosis?
My predicament is do I purchase a replacement fuel pump and fit it myself? Is any specialist equipment required to program the pump to the car or is it plug and play?
The reason I am leaning toward doing it myself is that the European cover is a joke, they will recover to a compound, then to a local garage for diagnosis and then potentially recover back to England (this process can be up to 6 weeks!). In my Romanian families words “don’t let anyone in Romania work on or handle your car”.
The other “European cover” that I have does not cover my size vehicle for recovery anywhere - stupidly I did not see this in the small print when I was mis sold it as an alternative to dealer warranty, apparently autoguard is more comprehensive! This is a lesson for me.
My other option is to have the car recovered back to England at my own expense which is approximately £3k with CMG recovery, I don’t mind paying this if it keeps my car safe and gets it sorted.
I’m confident in replacing the pump as long as there is no specialist software needed. That is the decision maker. I’ve ruled out letting any warranty company instruct anyone to handle my car. I’m willing to take the cost of recovery on the chin, this can be done in a timely manner.
Using the main dealer is an absolute pain in the ass at the best of times no matter which country you are in so I steer clear of them whenever possible!
Sorry for the waffle but I feel it’s important to get the full story across. Had I been in the UK the decision would have been so much easier to make.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Chris
Sorry I forgot to add that, I popped in yesterday to see him and asked, if wrote the post on the aeroplane on the way back home.
According to him it should be plug and play Assuming that’s the only issue.
He said that he would run a prime cycle using the computer if fitting a fuel pump but should be possible to purge the circuit with ignition on/off etc.
Unusual for the in tank pump to fail, usually it’s the high pressure pumps at the engine that go.
I don’t think he wanted to give too much away incase I hold him responsible which I understand. I’d much rather give him the car but the circumstances don’t allow this!
According to him it should be plug and play Assuming that’s the only issue.
He said that he would run a prime cycle using the computer if fitting a fuel pump but should be possible to purge the circuit with ignition on/off etc.
Unusual for the in tank pump to fail, usually it’s the high pressure pumps at the engine that go.
I don’t think he wanted to give too much away incase I hold him responsible which I understand. I’d much rather give him the car but the circumstances don’t allow this!
MrBig said:
Surely your best bet is to have it recovered to a recommended specialist or a JLR dealer in a nearby country? Hungary or Austria maybe?
That is a good option that I hadn’t considered. Would just be a case of having the vehicle transported there safely, from past experience in the UK with JLR they have your car for weeks on end and I don’t really want to take that chance especially given there is a language barrier also. The more I think about the the more I’m leaning towards buying the genuine spares which I can get next day delivery and going back over to try and repair.
Because of how much tinkering I’ve done with the existing fuel pump I’d feel more comfortable replacing it regardless if it’s the fault.
If it doesn’t fix the issue then I think I need to draw a line under it and hand over to a professional.
The family are still in Romania at the moment so I’d be going back anyway, just have 10 days work to finish off beforehand.
I’m looking to buy an OBD scanner 1. To help with this issues and 2. It’s a RRS so a scanner will more than likely come in handy in the future. Any recommendations <£200?
Hi guys, thanks for all the replies… sorry I’ve been a bit quiet of late.
So update, I fitted a new fuel pump - still the same.
Now there doesn’t seem to be power at the pump as there was before.
I bought a Gap IID tool which I think will be useful, I did a live monitor and no action from the pump at all.
The gap tool is reading P008A-84 fuel pressure too low.
I’ve given up, bit the bullet and am being recovered to JLR in Hungary in the morning (at my own expense)… warranty/European cover isn’t worth anything I’ve found!
They’re going to run diagnostics straight away and advise, I’ll keep you all updated how I get on.
I’m wondering if it could be a sensor/fuel control module but there comes a point where I just have to hand over to the pros!
So update, I fitted a new fuel pump - still the same.
Now there doesn’t seem to be power at the pump as there was before.
I bought a Gap IID tool which I think will be useful, I did a live monitor and no action from the pump at all.
The gap tool is reading P008A-84 fuel pressure too low.
I’ve given up, bit the bullet and am being recovered to JLR in Hungary in the morning (at my own expense)… warranty/European cover isn’t worth anything I’ve found!
They’re going to run diagnostics straight away and advise, I’ll keep you all updated how I get on.
I’m wondering if it could be a sensor/fuel control module but there comes a point where I just have to hand over to the pros!
Quick update: car delivered safely to JLR Hungary. They’ve booked it in, first diagnostics appointment is 20th august but they say if they can get it in sooner they will. I find that with all JLR main dealers there’s always a waiting list, is what it is I suppose. Currently travelling back to England in my 3.0 diesel Audi A5 (a reliable car unlike the svr!).. I’ll keep you all updated incase anyone has similar issues in the future.
Morning all, just had an email from JLR with an update.
They said after much testing to locate the issue it is the fuel pump control module at fault.
They’ve sent me a bill should I wish to proceed for about £1600 inc vat. That includes diagnostic, the parts, fitting and programming it (about 10 hours total labour).
Personally I feel the cost is rather inflated as don’t see 10 hours labour there however I don’t have much choice so I’ve given the go ahead. Car should be ready in about a week. I don’t ever expect a small bill from JLR to be honest and I’m well aware this is what I signed up to when buying the car.
The module is just a little box next to the fuse box in the boot space, 3 plugs and 2 bolts probably about 10 mins to change it but I guess it’s the programming of it that i would have difficulty with.
Next job is to send the proposal to Autoguard warranties to see if they will pay out, I’m not holding my breath!
Fingers crossed it all goes ok. I’ll keep you posted.
They said after much testing to locate the issue it is the fuel pump control module at fault.
They’ve sent me a bill should I wish to proceed for about £1600 inc vat. That includes diagnostic, the parts, fitting and programming it (about 10 hours total labour).
Personally I feel the cost is rather inflated as don’t see 10 hours labour there however I don’t have much choice so I’ve given the go ahead. Car should be ready in about a week. I don’t ever expect a small bill from JLR to be honest and I’m well aware this is what I signed up to when buying the car.
The module is just a little box next to the fuse box in the boot space, 3 plugs and 2 bolts probably about 10 mins to change it but I guess it’s the programming of it that i would have difficulty with.
Next job is to send the proposal to Autoguard warranties to see if they will pay out, I’m not holding my breath!
Fingers crossed it all goes ok. I’ll keep you posted.
Thanks for the update and good luck with the warranty claim. I suspect your chances of success lie somewhere between fat and slim but I've no idea on what grounds they'll reject it.
Put it down to one of life's experiences of there's no joy.
Just glad you're getting it sorted and not had to wait around longer.
Put it down to one of life's experiences of there's no joy.
Just glad you're getting it sorted and not had to wait around longer.
Hi just wanted to update everyone. The fuel pump control module was replaced by JLR Hungary for a whopping £1700… this is made up of 9 hours diagnostics, 1 hour 15 mins for the fitting and the rest parts cost.
I’m astonished that it took 9 hours to diagnose but I don’t have much choice to argue, it is what it is.
I’ve now got the car back to the UK!
About 200 miles up the motorway from Hungary the EML came on.
I pulled over to check the code which was P2274-00 sensor 3 bank 1 stuck lean.
I reset the code and continued to drive, after a further 50 miles and a little bit of gas to overtake a lorry the EML came back on.
Again I pulled over and reset it and it hasn’t came on since (about 1000 miles).
The cars performance is as it should be, oil/coolant etc all ok, no smoke from exhaust etc.
I’m just wondering the cause of the sensor fault, I believe it is the post cat sensor and have read it could be intake manifold/exhaust leak etc etc.
Could it be bad fuel? As in either old fuel that’s been sat for 2 months or just bad from the pump (can’t always find a decent station at 16 mpg). Also a bit of a bad on my part I had used E10 premium thinking it was the best but I now understand it’s E5 I should be looking for.
On collection there was half a tank of E10 and I filled up with Shell V power and have done all the way home.
Could any contaminants of been burnt off?
Either way it’s booked for service in October so I can ask them to take a look.
Thanks to everyone for the responses and advice also 🙏
I’m astonished that it took 9 hours to diagnose but I don’t have much choice to argue, it is what it is.
I’ve now got the car back to the UK!
About 200 miles up the motorway from Hungary the EML came on.
I pulled over to check the code which was P2274-00 sensor 3 bank 1 stuck lean.
I reset the code and continued to drive, after a further 50 miles and a little bit of gas to overtake a lorry the EML came back on.
Again I pulled over and reset it and it hasn’t came on since (about 1000 miles).
The cars performance is as it should be, oil/coolant etc all ok, no smoke from exhaust etc.
I’m just wondering the cause of the sensor fault, I believe it is the post cat sensor and have read it could be intake manifold/exhaust leak etc etc.
Could it be bad fuel? As in either old fuel that’s been sat for 2 months or just bad from the pump (can’t always find a decent station at 16 mpg). Also a bit of a bad on my part I had used E10 premium thinking it was the best but I now understand it’s E5 I should be looking for.
On collection there was half a tank of E10 and I filled up with Shell V power and have done all the way home.
Could any contaminants of been burnt off?
Either way it’s booked for service in October so I can ask them to take a look.
Thanks to everyone for the responses and advice also 🙏
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