Discussion
Looking at old posts people don't seem to recommend 0-40 oils. I used to run on Mobil 1 but cant seem to get it that easily. Mobil do a motorsport formula oil fully synthetic 10-60 which I can get but a bit pricey. Someone recommended Napa oil which is apparently Valvoline, which also comes in 10-60 fully synthetic and about £40. Just wondered what recommendations others had.
For the record mine is a 4.0 Chim with about 65k on the clock. Thanks for any recommendations
For the record mine is a 4.0 Chim with about 65k on the clock. Thanks for any recommendations
When I bought my Chimaera 450 I was Tod to use Valvoline Vr1 due to its high zinc content which apparently prevents wear. However, on having the car serviced, the garage put in Mobil 10-40 semi synthetic, saying that the Valvoline was "too thin". I won't argue with experts but it would appear that either of these oils will do. Someone correct me if I am wrong.
There will be a lot of different opinions on this, most will recommend Valvoline racing VR1 20/50.
Some choose to use a decent 10/40 semi synthetic too so its a bit of a minefield and a debate that will rage on.
Originally TVR had a deal with Mobil 1 which is why their lubricants were recommended, ive never really used their stuff as im sure i read somewhere it wasnt that good.
Some choose to use a decent 10/40 semi synthetic too so its a bit of a minefield and a debate that will rage on.
Originally TVR had a deal with Mobil 1 which is why their lubricants were recommended, ive never really used their stuff as im sure i read somewhere it wasnt that good.
Agree, a minefield and you'll receive loads of 'must only use' comments from different people. Over the (20+) years I've used various different oils and in my opinion I think 5-grade, and thus also 0-grade, oils are too thin and have generally used 10/40 semi-synthetic, but also some 10/50 and 15/40s. Over the years I seem to recall some engine re-builders recommending 10/40, but can't recall who.
Having said that, I don't track or thrash my car, warm it up gengly, change the oil annually and probably the longest interval has been 3,000 miles, generally much less. In addition, different engines might respond better to different grades.
Having said that, I don't track or thrash my car, warm it up gengly, change the oil annually and probably the longest interval has been 3,000 miles, generally much less. In addition, different engines might respond better to different grades.
I think its Powers Performance who only warrant their engine rebuilds if used on 10/40 semi synthetic oil only, im positive ive read that numerous times.
Someone will correct me but i think the earlier dizzy driven oil pumps preferred a thicker 20/50 and the later crank pumps 10/40 but thats not set in stone.
Everyone has a different opinion on oil but in reality a high quality 10/40 semi synthetic would probably be the best choice changed regularly.
Someone will correct me but i think the earlier dizzy driven oil pumps preferred a thicker 20/50 and the later crank pumps 10/40 but thats not set in stone.
Everyone has a different opinion on oil but in reality a high quality 10/40 semi synthetic would probably be the best choice changed regularly.
Belle427 said:
I think its Powers Performance who only warrant their engine rebuilds if used on 10/40 semi synthetic oil only, im positive ive read that numerous times.
Someone will correct me but i think the earlier dizzy driven oil pumps preferred a thicker 20/50 and the later crank pumps 10/40 but thats not set in stone.
Everyone has a different opinion on oil but in reality a high quality 10/40 semi synthetic would probably be the best choice changed regularly.
That makes sense.Someone will correct me but i think the earlier dizzy driven oil pumps preferred a thicker 20/50 and the later crank pumps 10/40 but thats not set in stone.
Everyone has a different opinion on oil but in reality a high quality 10/40 semi synthetic would probably be the best choice changed regularly.
And yes Powers rebuilds require 10/40 semi.
I once changed to a thinner oil and had follower rattles everytime is started it from cold. As my engine had been rebuilt by Powers I replaced it within a week. Expensive mistake.
I then tried 10/40 semi with a couple of litres of 20/50 simply to protect the cam but found my engine felt a bit heavy or sluggish to spin up compared to 10/40 semi
I now use Millers 10/40 semi and even after a lay up the engine fired up with no rattles and is very quiet.
I used to use Mobil 1 but again engine rattled for a few seconds on cold starts
After many oil changes as I’ve now done 25,000 miles on Doms engine I’m very happy and impressed with the Millers oil that Powers recommended.
I always try to stick to premium lubricants on stuff i care about such as Millers, Fuchs, Motul etc which are all high quality.
Not really been a Castrol person but i dont know enough about them these days.
Places like Opie Oils although not the cheapest seem to stock all the quality stuff.
Penrite were another that have some interesting choices available, i used this a couple of times without issue.
https://penriteclassicoils.co.uk/product/hpr-10-10...
Not really been a Castrol person but i dont know enough about them these days.
Places like Opie Oils although not the cheapest seem to stock all the quality stuff.
Penrite were another that have some interesting choices available, i used this a couple of times without issue.
https://penriteclassicoils.co.uk/product/hpr-10-10...
The cost of an engine rebuild is rather considerable so I tend to replace oil as soon as it turns black which on mine tends to be about 2000 miles, I usually change at around 3000-3500 in truth.
It just helps keep the inside of the engine spotless and clean.
I’ve noticed the inside of plenums are often tarred and rather black in some cases where as mine is shiny metal which always impresses me.
On a cared for older motor it makes good sense to replace the oil regularly as 3000 miles might also take a few years to achieve.
More than worry about the viscosity just use a quality product but I wouldn’t go any thinner than 10/40 personally
Most modern oils have other properties added to help and no longer use zinc which is why so many choose VR1 but after reading up I don’t think that’s critical anymore.
It just helps keep the inside of the engine spotless and clean.
I’ve noticed the inside of plenums are often tarred and rather black in some cases where as mine is shiny metal which always impresses me.
On a cared for older motor it makes good sense to replace the oil regularly as 3000 miles might also take a few years to achieve.
More than worry about the viscosity just use a quality product but I wouldn’t go any thinner than 10/40 personally
Most modern oils have other properties added to help and no longer use zinc which is why so many choose VR1 but after reading up I don’t think that’s critical anymore.
BritishTvr450 said:
I now use Millers 10/40 semi and even after a lay up the engine fired up with no rattles and is very quiet.
I just had a look online and it seems there are several different variants of Millers oil that come in 10w 40 - is there one in particular that you (or Powers) generally use or they are all okay to consider?
Many thanks for all the responses. I was going to go down the Valvoline VR1 route but just happened across product information on the Valvoline web page which states under applications that VR1 is not recommended for vehicles with catalytic converters, which I think were standard after 1993 at TVR. Think I may now settle on Mobil 1 motorsport formula 10w-60 fully synthetic.. You need a bl**dy degree to buy engine oil these days, I thought technology was supposed to make life simple!
Thanks again everyone
Thanks again everyone
The zddp was recommended for engines with flat tappets, ie RV8, however, the zinc can adversely affect the catalytic converter, so it's a balance! My gut feeling is that those with cats. have generally moved away from zddp but if you look on some of the forums where people have the older V8s everybody says that you 'must' have high zddp oils, some insisting on 20/50 because that was specified back-in-the day.
It's a real pain now, especially if you have a few cars.
It's a real pain now, especially if you have a few cars.
Belle427 said:
I think its Powers Performance who only warrant their engine rebuilds if used on 10/40 semi synthetic oil only, im positive ive read that numerous times.
Someone will correct me but i think the earlier dizzy driven oil pumps preferred a thicker 20/50 and the later crank pumps 10/40 but thats not set in stone.
Everyone has a different opinion on oil but in reality a high quality 10/40 semi synthetic would probably be the best choice changed regularly.
This Someone will correct me but i think the earlier dizzy driven oil pumps preferred a thicker 20/50 and the later crank pumps 10/40 but thats not set in stone.
Everyone has a different opinion on oil but in reality a high quality 10/40 semi synthetic would probably be the best choice changed regularly.
10w/40 semi synthetic. Usually averages about £35.00 for 5 ltrs. At this price i changed my oil at least twice a year doing limited mileage.Oil came out the same colour it went in. Does not have to be a fancy high spec fully synthetic oil.......just needs changing more
_Cosmos_ said:
I just had a look online and it seems there are several different variants of Millers oil that come in 10w 40 - is there one in particular that you (or Powers) generally use or they are all okay to consider?
I’ll find the can and post a picture 
What engine cc and what year is yours.
Mines a 2000 year engine so darn modern
Here you go.
As others have said many oils are upto the job as long as your engines in tip top condition but from the moment I introduced this oil to my engine which has been rebuilt and generally in fine fettle it’s never sounded quieter on start up which is about the only time it’s ever made or I’ve heard the odd rattle.
The nature of the pushrod and follower design I feel lends itself to hearing the odd rattles when cold and stood for anything more than a few days imho so don’t hold me to ransom if it doesn’t suit your engine.
What I will say is my engine stood for about 6 months recently and when I fired it up for the first time expected a bit of noise but it was silent which really surprised me, I can only put that down to the oil.
Another thing I tend to do is add injector treatment to the fuel ever so often as that keeps the injectors lubricated and keeps them quiet.
I spent months once wondering why I got rattles that seemed to move around the top end of the engine, light tapping which I thought was the cam followers then tried injector cleaner/ lubricator and the engine soon became quieter and those rattles disappeared. It’s well worth using IMO.
As others have said many oils are upto the job as long as your engines in tip top condition but from the moment I introduced this oil to my engine which has been rebuilt and generally in fine fettle it’s never sounded quieter on start up which is about the only time it’s ever made or I’ve heard the odd rattle.
The nature of the pushrod and follower design I feel lends itself to hearing the odd rattles when cold and stood for anything more than a few days imho so don’t hold me to ransom if it doesn’t suit your engine.
What I will say is my engine stood for about 6 months recently and when I fired it up for the first time expected a bit of noise but it was silent which really surprised me, I can only put that down to the oil.
Another thing I tend to do is add injector treatment to the fuel ever so often as that keeps the injectors lubricated and keeps them quiet.
I spent months once wondering why I got rattles that seemed to move around the top end of the engine, light tapping which I thought was the cam followers then tried injector cleaner/ lubricator and the engine soon became quieter and those rattles disappeared. It’s well worth using IMO.
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