brake light switch failure caused gear selection failure
Discussion
Has any one else had this problem ? I have a 2018 PE. engine started normally but impossible to engage either D or R .Parking brake released but white brake enaged motif still engaged so that it was impossible to move.Car had to be recovered by truck with crane back to Alpine St.Albans.They reported that initial diagnostics did not exhibit any fault.Following day I was called to say problem was "brake light switch" and that they had never previously encountered problem.Part 253206454R £19.11 - LABOUR £440 ALL PLUS vat !!!
I've just had this problem too - but charging the battery did not effect a cure, and battery voltage at 15v on tickover. Once in gear the box works faultlessly, even changing down into 1st if the situation demands. Oddly engaged eithe D or R perfectly on startup yesterday, but not confident it will do the same today!
a110au said:
it may be the little switch that signals foot on brake? I cannot remember if you need foot on brake to press D from P
I'm pretty sure that is my problem - brake lights don't work when I have the issue. Is it such a big deal to replace the switch - £400+ seems ridiculous?bcr5784 said:
a110au said:
it may be the little switch that signals foot on brake? I cannot remember if you need foot on brake to press D from P
I'm pretty sure that is my problem - brake lights don't work when I have the issue. Is it such a big deal to replace the switch - £400+ seems ridiculous?Thanks for feed back - Alpine st Albans told me that there would be a minimum charge of £250 for "diagnostics" - which as I have said revealed nothing.
Does anyone know where the brake light switch is located ? Is there only one switch ? or does each brake light have one ? I would guess system must be common to all keyless Renault so am I amazed that no one else has ever had this problem.
If this really is a "one off" I can understand Renault /Alpine dealer specilaist "engineers" not recognising what the problem was when first reported.When I was advised of negative fault diagnostic report I was told that thye put the battery on charge - which I told them was a waste of time.The battery was replaced in March and the engine started on the button so I knew it was not a low voltage problem.
On the other hand if in the past six years this fault has been previously reported , then the "intelligence" should have been circulated to the dealer network and the diagnostic expense avoided.
After six years in production A110NG parts catalogue and workshop manual should be made openly available on line.
Does anyone know where the brake light switch is located ? Is there only one switch ? or does each brake light have one ? I would guess system must be common to all keyless Renault so am I amazed that no one else has ever had this problem.
If this really is a "one off" I can understand Renault /Alpine dealer specilaist "engineers" not recognising what the problem was when first reported.When I was advised of negative fault diagnostic report I was told that thye put the battery on charge - which I told them was a waste of time.The battery was replaced in March and the engine started on the button so I knew it was not a low voltage problem.
On the other hand if in the past six years this fault has been previously reported , then the "intelligence" should have been circulated to the dealer network and the diagnostic expense avoided.
After six years in production A110NG parts catalogue and workshop manual should be made openly available on line.
grahamcolover said:
Thanks for feed back - Alpine st Albans told me that there would be a minimum charge of £250 for "diagnostics" - which as I have said revealed nothing.
Does anyone know where the brake light switch is located ? Is there only one switch ? or does each brake light have one ? I would guess system must be common to all keyless Renault so am I amazed that no one else has ever had this problem.
If this really is a "one off" I can understand Renault /Alpine dealer specilaist "engineers" not recognising what the problem was when first reported.When I was advised of negative fault diagnostic report I was told that thye put the battery on charge - which I told them was a waste of time.The battery was replaced in March and the engine started on the button so I knew it was not a low voltage problem.
On the other hand if in the past six years this fault has been previously reported , then the "intelligence" should have been circulated to the dealer network and the diagnostic expense avoided.
After six years in production A110NG parts catalogue and workshop manual should be made openly available on line.
I was appalled when my Seat dealer wanted to charge £100 for "diagnostics" - £250 is really extracting the urine. Looking at the diagram www provided it looks like a simply DIY job unless the switch is buried in the depths of other stuff. Does anyone know where the brake light switch is located ? Is there only one switch ? or does each brake light have one ? I would guess system must be common to all keyless Renault so am I amazed that no one else has ever had this problem.
If this really is a "one off" I can understand Renault /Alpine dealer specilaist "engineers" not recognising what the problem was when first reported.When I was advised of negative fault diagnostic report I was told that thye put the battery on charge - which I told them was a waste of time.The battery was replaced in March and the engine started on the button so I knew it was not a low voltage problem.
On the other hand if in the past six years this fault has been previously reported , then the "intelligence" should have been circulated to the dealer network and the diagnostic expense avoided.
After six years in production A110NG parts catalogue and workshop manual should be made openly available on line.
Update - now had a look, if that is the switch in question, it could hardly be easier to install, just pull off the plastic panel by your right knee and it's a couple of minutes job from there.
Edited by bcr5784 on Wednesday 17th July 10:20
Good idea to put one spare switch in the trunk, thanks for the reference.
I prefer to put the car in N when standing at a traffic stop to prevent clutch wear and noticed when I let the car roll downhill a little I cannot chose D until I come again to a complete stop via using the brakes. So putting the box in sailing mode seems not to be the best idea.
I prefer to put the car in N when standing at a traffic stop to prevent clutch wear and noticed when I let the car roll downhill a little I cannot chose D until I come again to a complete stop via using the brakes. So putting the box in sailing mode seems not to be the best idea.
k_m said:
Good idea to put one spare switch in the trunk, thanks for the reference.
I prefer to put the car in N when standing at a traffic stop to prevent clutch wear and noticed when I let the car roll downhill a little I cannot chose D until I come again to a complete stop via using the brakes. So putting the box in sailing mode seems not to be the best idea.
I'm pretty convinced clutch wear isn't an issue - torque goes down to nothing when you have braked to a standstill, to "creep" is, I'm pretty sure is disabled (multiplate clutches don't drag to any extent - ask any motocyclist) However blinding motorist behind in the dark is a bit antisocial. Given that my brakelight switch seems to have failed i'm not sure I'm likely to be guilty of that.I prefer to put the car in N when standing at a traffic stop to prevent clutch wear and noticed when I let the car roll downhill a little I cannot chose D until I come again to a complete stop via using the brakes. So putting the box in sailing mode seems not to be the best idea.
Just replaced my brakelight switch. As I thought - it couldn't be easier. Rotate the switch 90 degrees anticlockwise to release it and pull it out, press tab to release wire. Reverse to refit.
Incidentally, in my case the plunger was actually stuck fully in and worked, if rather grittily, once freed. However the contacts weren't working either, so the replacement was needed.
Issue cured and D and R work fine.
Incidentally, when I had the problem repeated hard presses of the brake while jabbing at the D/R buttons was a get out jail card - so worth trying if you have the issue.
Incidentally, in my case the plunger was actually stuck fully in and worked, if rather grittily, once freed. However the contacts weren't working either, so the replacement was needed.
Issue cured and D and R work fine.
Incidentally, when I had the problem repeated hard presses of the brake while jabbing at the D/R buttons was a get out jail card - so worth trying if you have the issue.
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