Discussion
Looking at getting one of these as a long term investment, likely to be 07-12 year
Any guidance would be much appreciated as to colours/interior colour, what spec is a must.
Manual vs auto
How sensitive are they to mileage and number of owners
I have seen this one which looks interesting
https://www.carandclassic.com/make-an-offer/2012-a...
Thanks
Any guidance would be much appreciated as to colours/interior colour, what spec is a must.
Manual vs auto
How sensitive are they to mileage and number of owners
I have seen this one which looks interesting
https://www.carandclassic.com/make-an-offer/2012-a...
Thanks
Purely as an investment it doesn't make much sense. Too many Vantages were made for all but the most exotic versions to be worth significant sums in the future, especially the V8s. They are all fantastic drivers cars though - and other than the clutch, they are generally mechanically robust. The best advice for any prospective owner is to buy Grants book, see the sticky.
As a relatively modern and depreciation free 1st Aston prospect, then they can represent a great buy. Just don't expect the same running costs as something less special, in addition to the higher cost of the usual consumables, if you keep one long enough, even careful use is likely to throw up the occasional 4 figure bill and this won't get less likely as they age - especially if an owner is going to maintain their car properly.
On the face of it the car you have selected looks OK - it's the last of the 4.7 before the updates with the S brakes and suspension which came just after it was registered.
It seems to have sat 'in storage' for quite a while without being serviced - which might be ok if it went in with fresh engine oil and it was started and more importantly moved every few months.
The MOT history shows the car was certainly in use between 2017 and 2019, It seems that the storage the ad refers to was from 2019 not 2017. It's not moved much between 2019 and this year.
If it went into storage with already 2yr old used oil and then moved 161 miles in 5yrs - try to determine if those 161 miles were even ie 20-40 annual backroad run out miles a year then back in storage) which is better or they were all this year with the car not having moved at all for 5yrs (not so good) - look carefully at how the engine starts and runs and how the car rolls and drives (sticky brakes etc) and check engine, gearbox and diff seals carefully for leaks. You might be lucky and it might just need a new set of tyres (probably already has a new battery) - but that is a large gap in its use/service history.
Date tested
3 May 2024
PASS
Mileage
25,582 miles
Test location
View test location
MOT test number
7919 4201 5763
Expiry date
2 May 2025
Date tested
2 May 2019
PASS
Mileage
25,421 miles
Test location
Not available for tests carried out in Northern Ireland
MOT test number
Not applicable
Expiry date
24 October 2021
Advisory and defect information is not available.
This information is not available for Northern Ireland. Check your MOT certificate to see this information if you are the vehicle owner.
Date tested
25 May 2018
PASS
Mileage
23,672 miles
Test location
Not available for tests carried out in Northern Ireland
MOT test number
Not applicable
Expiry date
24 May 2019
Advisory and defect information is not available.
This information is not available for Northern Ireland. Check your MOT certificate to see this information if you are the vehicle owner.
As a relatively modern and depreciation free 1st Aston prospect, then they can represent a great buy. Just don't expect the same running costs as something less special, in addition to the higher cost of the usual consumables, if you keep one long enough, even careful use is likely to throw up the occasional 4 figure bill and this won't get less likely as they age - especially if an owner is going to maintain their car properly.
On the face of it the car you have selected looks OK - it's the last of the 4.7 before the updates with the S brakes and suspension which came just after it was registered.
It seems to have sat 'in storage' for quite a while without being serviced - which might be ok if it went in with fresh engine oil and it was started and more importantly moved every few months.
The MOT history shows the car was certainly in use between 2017 and 2019, It seems that the storage the ad refers to was from 2019 not 2017. It's not moved much between 2019 and this year.
If it went into storage with already 2yr old used oil and then moved 161 miles in 5yrs - try to determine if those 161 miles were even ie 20-40 annual backroad run out miles a year then back in storage) which is better or they were all this year with the car not having moved at all for 5yrs (not so good) - look carefully at how the engine starts and runs and how the car rolls and drives (sticky brakes etc) and check engine, gearbox and diff seals carefully for leaks. You might be lucky and it might just need a new set of tyres (probably already has a new battery) - but that is a large gap in its use/service history.
Date tested
3 May 2024
PASS
Mileage
25,582 miles
Test location
View test location
MOT test number
7919 4201 5763
Expiry date
2 May 2025
Date tested
2 May 2019
PASS
Mileage
25,421 miles
Test location
Not available for tests carried out in Northern Ireland
MOT test number
Not applicable
Expiry date
24 October 2021
Advisory and defect information is not available.
This information is not available for Northern Ireland. Check your MOT certificate to see this information if you are the vehicle owner.
Date tested
25 May 2018
PASS
Mileage
23,672 miles
Test location
Not available for tests carried out in Northern Ireland
MOT test number
Not applicable
Expiry date
24 May 2019
Advisory and defect information is not available.
This information is not available for Northern Ireland. Check your MOT certificate to see this information if you are the vehicle owner.
Edited by Calinours on Saturday 13th July 11:14
Most people will suggest a Manual and for many reasons.
The Sportshift (Automated Manual) can take some getting used to.
I'd suggest test driving both Manual and Sportshift and seeing for yourself.
I wouldn't be too concerned about mileage providing its been well looked after and serviced regularly and correctly.
Colour options are subjective to personal taste, personally I go for colours that are a bit less common, here's my Toro Red...
I do love that blue though, and the sand leather.
I've never seen diamond cut 7 spoke wheels before, it looks like it's been poorly executed too, look at the inconsistency of the spoke indents ...that would really bug my OCD
The Sportshift (Automated Manual) can take some getting used to.
I'd suggest test driving both Manual and Sportshift and seeing for yourself.
I wouldn't be too concerned about mileage providing its been well looked after and serviced regularly and correctly.
Colour options are subjective to personal taste, personally I go for colours that are a bit less common, here's my Toro Red...
I do love that blue though, and the sand leather.
I've never seen diamond cut 7 spoke wheels before, it looks like it's been poorly executed too, look at the inconsistency of the spoke indents ...that would really bug my OCD
Edited by -jester- on Saturday 13th July 11:01
I know wrong forum, but would this be more suitable?
https://www.auto100.co.uk/used-car-details/used-ja...
https://www.auto100.co.uk/used-car-details/used-ja...
I think an "Aston Martin V8 Vantage as an investment" is the kind of excuse I would make to my wife!
The earliest models are still depreciating, albeit quite slowly. But any investment returns are likely to be eaten up by maintenance and spares costs. That's headlights at £1,500 each, a new clutch at £3,500-£4,000, air con condenser c£700 - you get the idea.
Buy one because you want one, and buy the best you can. Then do a lot of the repair and renovation work yourself, but don't think of it as an investment as it is unlikely to make you much money, other than perhaps in the extreme long term.
And if you are buying from a dealer (probably the safest way) expect to take an instant £10,000-£15,000 hit as it's the difference between the bid and offer valuations. That is, I paid £37,850 for my 2006 Vantage two years ago, but if I take it back I would probably be offered less than £25,000 now and I have spent more than £4,000 so fair in repairs and servicing.
Still puts a smile on my face every time I start it, but as an investment, it probably stinks!
The earliest models are still depreciating, albeit quite slowly. But any investment returns are likely to be eaten up by maintenance and spares costs. That's headlights at £1,500 each, a new clutch at £3,500-£4,000, air con condenser c£700 - you get the idea.
Buy one because you want one, and buy the best you can. Then do a lot of the repair and renovation work yourself, but don't think of it as an investment as it is unlikely to make you much money, other than perhaps in the extreme long term.
And if you are buying from a dealer (probably the safest way) expect to take an instant £10,000-£15,000 hit as it's the difference between the bid and offer valuations. That is, I paid £37,850 for my 2006 Vantage two years ago, but if I take it back I would probably be offered less than £25,000 now and I have spent more than £4,000 so fair in repairs and servicing.
Still puts a smile on my face every time I start it, but as an investment, it probably stinks!
We've had ours a month now. Heres a new owners perspective.
If you are looking at a Sportshift it does not drive like a conventional Torque convertor automatic, I didn't realise this when I bought ours but if you drive it on the paddles rather than leaving it in "D" then now I'm used to it, its fine. Slow speed manoeuvring is not as easy as a manual as there is no clutch to feather, and once I got used to it, again I've no issue with it now.
The video is worth a watch as the chap here really explains how to use it, I cant get the URL to work but if you look for
"Aston Martin Sportshift Transmission - A How To Guide With Les From The Aston Martin Heritage Trust" you'll find it on youtube
Personally I wouldnt pick a manual over a sportshift, if the sportshift car had other features or was in a colour or a spec I liked that would not put me off it, but its personal choice, as the poster above me said, test drive both if you can and make your own mind up.
If you are worried about the sportshift, look for a Vantage S if your budget allows as the 7 speed Sportshift II is an improvement over the 6 speed Sportshift 1
Ours prior to our ownership had done very little mileage 200 - 300 each year having 18K on it when we picked it up and the car felt tight, we've put a 1000 miles on it now and it drives a lot better now.
MPG is crap but I didn't buy it for that, the Vantage fits into carpark spaces OK so I have been using it for everyday use and the boot fits a decent amount of stuff in it.
The steering is heavy, but the feedback / feel is immense I really feel connected to the car and every drive is an "event" it feels special. But you have to "drive" it, its not good being passive with the controls, you have to drive the car, its not like a modern daily is in terms of driver feel and experience.
The fly off handbrake is a bit weird to use, but again I've got used to it now.
Ours is an N420, which again being a "numbered" car appealed to me, plus the sports exhaust sounds excellent when driving hard, but it'll cruise quietly at 80mph on the motorway, as did the carbon extra's.
I bought with my heart not my head, having always wanted a sportscar, I've a slush fund in a savings account in case it throws up any big bills, and I know the clutch will want doing at 40K ish from the reading I did do and I'll be off to Bamford Rose for a twin plate clutch kit when its due which improves the way the sportshift feels to drive anyway.
We had an 02 sensor fail a day or so after we bought it and the dealer sorted that out for us with no fuss whatsoever.
I dont know enough about long term ownership to give you anymore advise, I bought ours through an AM dealer which I wanted to as I felt it would give me peace of mind on it, not sure If I am allowed to name, but Dick Lovett AM Bristol have been excellent to deal with all the way through so my advise really would be try and find a good dealership or a good independent to deal with.
Last tip, buy it, drive it, use it, everything I read said its better for the car to be used and driven than to be a garage queen, we have motorbikes as well and my girfriends Ducati is exactly the same, its better with use.
Hope thats useful
If you are looking at a Sportshift it does not drive like a conventional Torque convertor automatic, I didn't realise this when I bought ours but if you drive it on the paddles rather than leaving it in "D" then now I'm used to it, its fine. Slow speed manoeuvring is not as easy as a manual as there is no clutch to feather, and once I got used to it, again I've no issue with it now.
The video is worth a watch as the chap here really explains how to use it, I cant get the URL to work but if you look for
"Aston Martin Sportshift Transmission - A How To Guide With Les From The Aston Martin Heritage Trust" you'll find it on youtube
Personally I wouldnt pick a manual over a sportshift, if the sportshift car had other features or was in a colour or a spec I liked that would not put me off it, but its personal choice, as the poster above me said, test drive both if you can and make your own mind up.
If you are worried about the sportshift, look for a Vantage S if your budget allows as the 7 speed Sportshift II is an improvement over the 6 speed Sportshift 1
Ours prior to our ownership had done very little mileage 200 - 300 each year having 18K on it when we picked it up and the car felt tight, we've put a 1000 miles on it now and it drives a lot better now.
MPG is crap but I didn't buy it for that, the Vantage fits into carpark spaces OK so I have been using it for everyday use and the boot fits a decent amount of stuff in it.
The steering is heavy, but the feedback / feel is immense I really feel connected to the car and every drive is an "event" it feels special. But you have to "drive" it, its not good being passive with the controls, you have to drive the car, its not like a modern daily is in terms of driver feel and experience.
The fly off handbrake is a bit weird to use, but again I've got used to it now.
Ours is an N420, which again being a "numbered" car appealed to me, plus the sports exhaust sounds excellent when driving hard, but it'll cruise quietly at 80mph on the motorway, as did the carbon extra's.
I bought with my heart not my head, having always wanted a sportscar, I've a slush fund in a savings account in case it throws up any big bills, and I know the clutch will want doing at 40K ish from the reading I did do and I'll be off to Bamford Rose for a twin plate clutch kit when its due which improves the way the sportshift feels to drive anyway.
We had an 02 sensor fail a day or so after we bought it and the dealer sorted that out for us with no fuss whatsoever.
I dont know enough about long term ownership to give you anymore advise, I bought ours through an AM dealer which I wanted to as I felt it would give me peace of mind on it, not sure If I am allowed to name, but Dick Lovett AM Bristol have been excellent to deal with all the way through so my advise really would be try and find a good dealership or a good independent to deal with.
Last tip, buy it, drive it, use it, everything I read said its better for the car to be used and driven than to be a garage queen, we have motorbikes as well and my girfriends Ducati is exactly the same, its better with use.
Hope thats useful
Edited by fizzwheel on Saturday 13th July 12:17
As others have said here before, buy one because you want one and enjoy it for what it is - a really lovely car. I doubt any fossil fuelled car will be an investment in the long term. I suspect the driving environment may be quite different in the next decade or so.
Buy one and drive it as much as you can. It will leave you with some wonderful memories.
I had a roadster for 3 years, sold it in 2019 and I still think about it regularly.
Buy one and drive it as much as you can. It will leave you with some wonderful memories.
I had a roadster for 3 years, sold it in 2019 and I still think about it regularly.
After 2 years of ownership all I would say is this
They are a love affair and even though I bought from a dealer with warranty and still have the warranty I have spent over 10k on just wear and tear items over the last 2 years, clutch, brakes and other bits
Someone said on this forum there is no such thing as a cheap Aston Martin and they were right. I will never get that money back as it does not really add value
Having said that, nothing comes close to turning on the engine and driving away in such a beautiful car
They are a love affair and even though I bought from a dealer with warranty and still have the warranty I have spent over 10k on just wear and tear items over the last 2 years, clutch, brakes and other bits
Someone said on this forum there is no such thing as a cheap Aston Martin and they were right. I will never get that money back as it does not really add value
Having said that, nothing comes close to turning on the engine and driving away in such a beautiful car
I think balancing those wheels would be fun!
To say nothing comes close to starting these up in the morning is a bit of a stretch tbh, though the Aston V12 sounds nice, there are plenty of cars around this price point with the same running costs that sound just as epic and have the same theatre (and more in some cases) to drive.
I had a long test in one before buying the vanquish S and i wasnt that impressed, a good evolution from TVR ownership and very similar in what it’ll do but when put up against some of its competition it was found very wanting imo.
I’d say to the op, at least look at other cars as well..
To say nothing comes close to starting these up in the morning is a bit of a stretch tbh, though the Aston V12 sounds nice, there are plenty of cars around this price point with the same running costs that sound just as epic and have the same theatre (and more in some cases) to drive.
I had a long test in one before buying the vanquish S and i wasnt that impressed, a good evolution from TVR ownership and very similar in what it’ll do but when put up against some of its competition it was found very wanting imo.
I’d say to the op, at least look at other cars as well..
I don't own a modern AM but have owned my rotbox/survivor car for many years: please allow some observations on very long term ownership
Firstly, you don't say why you want an AM. Assuming you're in UK it's quite difficult to find anywhere to drive at anything like 10/10s except on a track, or in the middle of the night, most daily driving is more a gentle progress. If you are looking for the full "brand" experience and to be on AML's radar, then you might need to have bought at least one new car, perhaps one/year. Also you don't describe your character as a car owner, by which I mean are you ultra fastidious or happy go lucky or somewhere in between? Do you want to own a garage queen or a well-loved usable example. Will it be garaged? Driven in the wet/snow?
Owning an AM is not cheap!
Keeping a car at an investment grade level of condition costs a lot; there are or were several people here who had the means a few years ago to buy a nice DB5 but got rid when the real costs of ownership of maintaining that condition came in. My car was 17 years old when I bought it, and it was rotten inside and very tired, but it didn't look it at the time. I only found out quite recently that the mileage on the speedo needs to have 63000 added to reflect total since new. I have never added up the total maintenance spend but have had several 5-figure bills over the years. Storing a car for years leads to investment in replacement parts. My rule of thumb for my cars is for every year in store/unused, expect a £2K bill on making it good enough to get the next MOT
Best wishes for your dilemma
PS fly-off handbrake, just lift and let go. Interesting situations possible with hand on gear shift and hand on handbrake, no hand on the wheel
Firstly, you don't say why you want an AM. Assuming you're in UK it's quite difficult to find anywhere to drive at anything like 10/10s except on a track, or in the middle of the night, most daily driving is more a gentle progress. If you are looking for the full "brand" experience and to be on AML's radar, then you might need to have bought at least one new car, perhaps one/year. Also you don't describe your character as a car owner, by which I mean are you ultra fastidious or happy go lucky or somewhere in between? Do you want to own a garage queen or a well-loved usable example. Will it be garaged? Driven in the wet/snow?
Owning an AM is not cheap!
Keeping a car at an investment grade level of condition costs a lot; there are or were several people here who had the means a few years ago to buy a nice DB5 but got rid when the real costs of ownership of maintaining that condition came in. My car was 17 years old when I bought it, and it was rotten inside and very tired, but it didn't look it at the time. I only found out quite recently that the mileage on the speedo needs to have 63000 added to reflect total since new. I have never added up the total maintenance spend but have had several 5-figure bills over the years. Storing a car for years leads to investment in replacement parts. My rule of thumb for my cars is for every year in store/unused, expect a £2K bill on making it good enough to get the next MOT
Best wishes for your dilemma
PS fly-off handbrake, just lift and let go. Interesting situations possible with hand on gear shift and hand on handbrake, no hand on the wheel
Edited by DB4DM on Saturday 13th July 20:03
Edited by DB4DM on Saturday 13th July 20:04
If you can do basic maintenance, ownership of a Gaydon Vantage need not be expensive. It is a well built car, and reliable. Mine has not been to a service agent in my ownership. There are many sources of equivalent parts at non AM prices. I have had mine for eleven years and done 30k miles (now at 55k). Original clutch, and the only failure has been an alarm module, which is common to many other cars. I have changed tyres, oils, filters, pads, boot and door struts, but little else. However it is not used in the winter, and lives inside. Still in excellent condition with original paint, and due for a road trip to Sweden next month. Earlier this year I did a 2500 mile continental trip, without issue.
And, as stated, the handbrake is not 'fly-off'. It merely rests on the floor so as not to impede entry and exit, like an XJS, but is otherwise conventional in operation.
And, as stated, the handbrake is not 'fly-off'. It merely rests on the floor so as not to impede entry and exit, like an XJS, but is otherwise conventional in operation.
Nick67 said:
Thanks for the reply, that’s exactly what a chap said to me this morning.
I’m tempted by the ‘S’ out of the 3, but worried about the mileage compared to the other 2.
Remember anything post 2012 will effectively be an 'S' as that's when the standard car got the S discs, calipers and steering. As most prefer the manual, the S's 7 speed sportshift-equipped box doesnt mean much for many potential buyers (There's no V8 with a 7 speed manual, all manuals are 6 speed). I’m tempted by the ‘S’ out of the 3, but worried about the mileage compared to the other 2.
The S with its fast robotised manual, slightly better and lower Bilsteins, extra ratio and a tad less weight and tad more power (but only with 98 Ron) will therefore always be a slightly quicker track tool than any 4.7 manual, but that's about the only advantage it would have, other than the pose value of all the added carbon fibre.
Therefore the two later cars look good, in your shoes the only additional things I'd be looking for are my preferred interior/exterior colour specs and the premium audio.
Lastly - don't worry too much about miles ( ie adding them). These are (apart from the OE single plate clutch) very mechanically robust cars, they like to be driven and they carry their miles well. Other than a weak clutch, electrics can be a bit flaky, the rear lights let water in and the interior leather doesn't like being left in the sun.
Good luck
Edited by Calinours on Wednesday 17th July 22:22
All depends on your budget. I bought a V8 just over a month ago.
I did a fair amount of research and came across some info in regards to depreciation curves for the various models of vantage on youtube, as you’d expect new ones take a massive hit, whereas 4.3 and some early 4.7 are now pretty flat.
If you are truly looking at investment then worth considering either the limited editions N400, N420, N430, AMR, Zagato (we can all dream) or models that had very low production numbers like the early 2012 V12 roadster manual) many are still 90-100k+ as so rare).
With the N series cars, they are not much more in cost than a regular if anything, but they each come with a specific set of options or upgrades over the standard. Some are much closer to the original version, N420 springs to mind as being very close and for cost difference you could install the upgrades yourself.
There’s a wealth of info over at:
https://astonmartins.com/car-category/vh-architect...
You can see all the different models and read a bit about them.
Also factor in you’ll want to have an Aston Martin specialist complete a pre-purchase inspection for you, £400-500ish (incl. VAT).
Then you have the whole argument of 6-speed manual versus 7 speed sport shift and if Sportshift then SS1, SS2 or SS3 depending on the year. I personally thought for investment manual is rarer and therefore will be more desirable later on, like you see for e-types, or classic DBS/AMV8’s.
I did a fair amount of research and came across some info in regards to depreciation curves for the various models of vantage on youtube, as you’d expect new ones take a massive hit, whereas 4.3 and some early 4.7 are now pretty flat.
If you are truly looking at investment then worth considering either the limited editions N400, N420, N430, AMR, Zagato (we can all dream) or models that had very low production numbers like the early 2012 V12 roadster manual) many are still 90-100k+ as so rare).
With the N series cars, they are not much more in cost than a regular if anything, but they each come with a specific set of options or upgrades over the standard. Some are much closer to the original version, N420 springs to mind as being very close and for cost difference you could install the upgrades yourself.
There’s a wealth of info over at:
https://astonmartins.com/car-category/vh-architect...
You can see all the different models and read a bit about them.
Also factor in you’ll want to have an Aston Martin specialist complete a pre-purchase inspection for you, £400-500ish (incl. VAT).
Then you have the whole argument of 6-speed manual versus 7 speed sport shift and if Sportshift then SS1, SS2 or SS3 depending on the year. I personally thought for investment manual is rarer and therefore will be more desirable later on, like you see for e-types, or classic DBS/AMV8’s.
Apollya said:
All depends on your budget. I bought a V8 just over a month ago.
I bought a V8 just over 13 years ago.
The generally accepted definition of investment is to lay out money today, with the expectation of receiving an income and/or a greater amount of money back in the future.
That rarely applies to motor cars, but although Aston Martin depreciation does not match Porsche, it is far better than for everyday cars (except during the first two years).
Bought mine when two years old at 60% of the original new list price. Ouch, probably 50% gone prior to that trade-in.
Since then, I might have lost about £20,000. Very reasonable over 13 years I think, for the privilege of owning such an amazing and beautiful car.
Agree completely. I took the approach of I’ll try to minimise any losses where at all possible, it’s a privilege to own and mainly to drive and enjoy rather than thinking it’ll make me money.
I’ve gone for a Manual N400 roadster in lightning silver (Not black). My reasons were prices were similar to that of a reg early 4.3 manual, but mine has the N400 upgrades which was: sportspack, premium audio, upgraded brakes and suspension (I think) and importantly the factory engine tune. Being an N400 it’s a Ltd edition car, mine is also a very low number of the 240 (actually only 195 or something were made worldwide only 37 manuals sold in U.K.). Lightening silver as personally I think it looked best but also 55% of N400’s were Black, around 15% Kessig Orange and approx 30% silver, so in theory 10-12 silver manual roadsters in U.K.
I also picked a drivers car, it’s not a perfect example, but the engine is sound and so it the rear steel subframe and plenty of life left in the tyres relatively new, all issues I saw are cosmetic, it’d just had MOT and passed no issue, and gone through a £3.5k service the week I collected. I also had the specialist conduct the pre-purchase inspection for me, they confirmed was a good buy.
I think if I did the cosmetic work, then I could increase the value fairly significantly, but also need to do the maths of what is or is not worthwhile at the time.
So in short, do t go into it expecting to make money, do it as you want to accepting you likely will not, but you can try and mitigate any losses where at all possible.
I’ve gone for a Manual N400 roadster in lightning silver (Not black). My reasons were prices were similar to that of a reg early 4.3 manual, but mine has the N400 upgrades which was: sportspack, premium audio, upgraded brakes and suspension (I think) and importantly the factory engine tune. Being an N400 it’s a Ltd edition car, mine is also a very low number of the 240 (actually only 195 or something were made worldwide only 37 manuals sold in U.K.). Lightening silver as personally I think it looked best but also 55% of N400’s were Black, around 15% Kessig Orange and approx 30% silver, so in theory 10-12 silver manual roadsters in U.K.
I also picked a drivers car, it’s not a perfect example, but the engine is sound and so it the rear steel subframe and plenty of life left in the tyres relatively new, all issues I saw are cosmetic, it’d just had MOT and passed no issue, and gone through a £3.5k service the week I collected. I also had the specialist conduct the pre-purchase inspection for me, they confirmed was a good buy.
I think if I did the cosmetic work, then I could increase the value fairly significantly, but also need to do the maths of what is or is not worthwhile at the time.
So in short, do t go into it expecting to make money, do it as you want to accepting you likely will not, but you can try and mitigate any losses where at all possible.
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