Mini Repairers Near Camberley?
Discussion
Literaly two minutes into a five minute trip to Tescos a car, driven by one of my friends incidentaly, smashed into the back of my Mini. Apparently his 'foot slipped off the brake'!!
He's acknowledged liability is quite happy to pay for the repairs.
No one was hurt but the back of my car is caved in, the whole of the back end will need replacing, and that's just the visible damage.
Where should I take it?
I'm not local, I've only been down here a few months, and I don't get much time off as I work six days a week.
I want somewhere that can do the lot, prefebly quickly but more importantly do a quality job.
Thanks in advance,
Joe.
He's acknowledged liability is quite happy to pay for the repairs.
No one was hurt but the back of my car is caved in, the whole of the back end will need replacing, and that's just the visible damage.
Where should I take it?
I'm not local, I've only been down here a few months, and I don't get much time off as I work six days a week.
I want somewhere that can do the lot, prefebly quickly but more importantly do a quality job.
Thanks in advance,
Joe.
Is the boot floor creased? I had an almost identical crash in my old mini and it was a write off. The boot had a small crease in it and there was nothing they could do apart from reshell it!
From the outside it just looked as if it needed a new bumper and boot lid.
Will make some enquiries for a good bodyshop and report back.
From the outside it just looked as if it needed a new bumper and boot lid.
Will make some enquiries for a good bodyshop and report back.
Extra 300 Driver said:
Is the boot floor creased? I had an almost identical crash in my old mini and it was a write off. The boot had a small crease in it and there was nothing they could do apart from reshell it!
From the outside it just looked as if it needed a new bumper and boot lid.
Will make some enquiries for a good bodyshop and report back.
F***k! I hope not!!! The boot won't open as it's that bent. The actual back panel of the car is creased to the right of the boot though.
Fingers crossed it'll be O.K. Not only for the sake of my mates pocket, but I bought it brand new 8 years ago with the intention of keeping it for ever. It'll break me if it's written off!
It shouldn't need a re-shell unless it is creased forward of the rear wheel centre line.
You can get new boot floor, rear valence, sub-frame, boot lid, inner wheel arch, and all the other bits at the back.
The reason the insurance companies write them off is the repair costs at top-line body shops. My neice had a 1000 cc Mayfair a few years ago and a truck scraped right along the lh side. The truck owner's insurance company wrote it off and she received £700 after I 'discussed' it's value with them. We bought the 'wreck' back for £55 and it cost me £300 to make it like new with a good 2nd hand door, new apex panel (the existing was a bit rusty so we took the opportunity of changing it, the loan of a 'Porta-Power to push the rear side panel out to profile, new wheel arches and side trim plus paint, Waxoyl, etc. Her car was better than before the accident and she and I had £345 between us to spend. A real result, especially considering how upset she was after the accident. She kept the car for a further 3 years and sold it for £350 then. A real result.
Maybe you could pull a similar stunt.
Of course, the best person to repair it is my buddy Chris Spennewyn in Hitchin - a real Mini expert. Call him on 01462 711080. He could collect it on his trailer and his work is unsurpassed on Minis, ask 'Dodgy Dave' for a reference. When I rolled my 1964 'S' on a rally he and I fitted a new roof, straightened all the other bits out and it was rallying, and winning, again 3 weeks later. He's just done another load of bodywork for me - super job.
You can get new boot floor, rear valence, sub-frame, boot lid, inner wheel arch, and all the other bits at the back.
The reason the insurance companies write them off is the repair costs at top-line body shops. My neice had a 1000 cc Mayfair a few years ago and a truck scraped right along the lh side. The truck owner's insurance company wrote it off and she received £700 after I 'discussed' it's value with them. We bought the 'wreck' back for £55 and it cost me £300 to make it like new with a good 2nd hand door, new apex panel (the existing was a bit rusty so we took the opportunity of changing it, the loan of a 'Porta-Power to push the rear side panel out to profile, new wheel arches and side trim plus paint, Waxoyl, etc. Her car was better than before the accident and she and I had £345 between us to spend. A real result, especially considering how upset she was after the accident. She kept the car for a further 3 years and sold it for £350 then. A real result.
Maybe you could pull a similar stunt.
Of course, the best person to repair it is my buddy Chris Spennewyn in Hitchin - a real Mini expert. Call him on 01462 711080. He could collect it on his trailer and his work is unsurpassed on Minis, ask 'Dodgy Dave' for a reference. When I rolled my 1964 'S' on a rally he and I fitted a new roof, straightened all the other bits out and it was rallying, and winning, again 3 weeks later. He's just done another load of bodywork for me - super job.
its was just forward of the battery box.Just forward of the battery box would indicate that the rear sub-frame may have moved forward a bit.
I wouldn't re-shell for this, although you would need a jig to repair it in order to keep the geometry correct, that's why damage ahead of the centre line through the rear wheels is so critical.
If you were unable to do most of the work yourself,then a new or good second-hand shell would be the best option, then you would have confidence that it would be fine.
In the case here I would leave this to the insurers to sort out and initially, then buy back the wreck if it is deemed 'beyond economical repair'. You then have a good donor car for a replacement shell or for repair by someone with the necessary equipment.
I wouldn't re-shell for this, although you would need a jig to repair it in order to keep the geometry correct, that's why damage ahead of the centre line through the rear wheels is so critical.
If you were unable to do most of the work yourself,then a new or good second-hand shell would be the best option, then you would have confidence that it would be fine.
In the case here I would leave this to the insurers to sort out and initially, then buy back the wreck if it is deemed 'beyond economical repair'. You then have a good donor car for a replacement shell or for repair by someone with the necessary equipment.
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