Discussion
So after 140000 miles of abuse my LS1 is smoking, and yes it is rings.
It’s nearly out , does any one know if it can come off the t56 gearbox without moving the steering rack.
Reason I ask is I have proflow headers making removing the rack painful, and I’d ideally want to leave the box in the car as I’m doing it on my own.
It’s nearly out , does any one know if it can come off the t56 gearbox without moving the steering rack.
Reason I ask is I have proflow headers making removing the rack painful, and I’d ideally want to leave the box in the car as I’m doing it on my own.
Edited by fred bloggs on Monday 24th June 18:07
It's going to be awkward. If it's not come apart before, the bell housing will be really, really keen to stay attached to the two dowels in the block, I had a reasonable amount of fun getting mine apart (69,500 miles) and that was out of the car.
Are the headers that awkward? When I've taken mine out or done various other things, it's just undo the bolt on the column, tap that apart, 2 bolts for the rack and it drops back out of the way
I've always just left the gearbox attached and pulled the whole lot out, it's not difficult getting it out over the subframe really, there's a decent amount of upward room, you'll need to be able to tilt it a lot though.
First time around I took the heads off as I'd never done anything of such magnitude before, gives you a lot of room and easy to see what's going on.
If you do leave the gearbox attached, it will wet itself when tilted, so bag the end up ahead of time and probably have some gearbox oil on the shelf
Quote from my build thread first time pulling the lot out. I had given up trying to split bell housing off the block. If you want some more context, it's in the thread, date is November 2020, so it's Page 3 if you use big boy pages of 80 posts per page.
Are the headers that awkward? When I've taken mine out or done various other things, it's just undo the bolt on the column, tap that apart, 2 bolts for the rack and it drops back out of the way
I've always just left the gearbox attached and pulled the whole lot out, it's not difficult getting it out over the subframe really, there's a decent amount of upward room, you'll need to be able to tilt it a lot though.
First time around I took the heads off as I'd never done anything of such magnitude before, gives you a lot of room and easy to see what's going on.
If you do leave the gearbox attached, it will wet itself when tilted, so bag the end up ahead of time and probably have some gearbox oil on the shelf
Quote from my build thread first time pulling the lot out. I had given up trying to split bell housing off the block. If you want some more context, it's in the thread, date is November 2020, so it's Page 3 if you use big boy pages of 80 posts per page.
SturdyHSV said:
Pulled the loom out the way, disconnected the rear transmission mount and decided I didn't fancy disconnecting the box, so time to go bold and just pull the whole lot out at once, there looked to be loads of room so...
Once it was convinced to come off the engine mounts (having no rear trans mount meant obviously it tipped back and the mounts were tight against the mount bolts)
Up a bit
Naturally the handle came off the leveller and the screw fell in the engine
Bit more tilt to get the back of the block over the steering rack...
Really quite scary at this point... Crane won't roll any further back because it's against the garage wall, but fortunately I came up with a plan...
Bit of levelling and it rotated round out of the way
I should mention I put the bell housing bolts back in before starting this...
Car now lowered back down onto its wheels out of the way, it got dark and cold by this point so I shall leave it precariously hanging until some daylight lets me roll the car out of the garage, have got a skip coming for some house related bits so it may be swinging there for a worrying week, will be checking for droop regularly
Once the car is out of the way I shall lay the engine and box down on some tyres / wooden blocks and disconnect bits without having to bench press anything. Pleased to have made what feels like proper progress
Once it was convinced to come off the engine mounts (having no rear trans mount meant obviously it tipped back and the mounts were tight against the mount bolts)
Up a bit
Naturally the handle came off the leveller and the screw fell in the engine
Bit more tilt to get the back of the block over the steering rack...
Really quite scary at this point... Crane won't roll any further back because it's against the garage wall, but fortunately I came up with a plan...
Bit of levelling and it rotated round out of the way
I should mention I put the bell housing bolts back in before starting this...
Car now lowered back down onto its wheels out of the way, it got dark and cold by this point so I shall leave it precariously hanging until some daylight lets me roll the car out of the garage, have got a skip coming for some house related bits so it may be swinging there for a worrying week, will be checking for droop regularly
Once the car is out of the way I shall lay the engine and box down on some tyres / wooden blocks and disconnect bits without having to bench press anything. Pleased to have made what feels like proper progress
Edited by SturdyHSV on Tuesday 25th June 12:51
robbyd said:
I got the engine out of my vt2 leaving the gearbox in place and not touching the rack. Even the bonnet stayed on...
And back in ? It doesn’t look like there is room between the back of the sump and the rack. Anyhow, I’ve dropped the rack this evening. Probably the most hateful job on my car with those headers.
Crank sensor is easy though, LOL
vxr2010 said:
Looking at just commoderes.com , engine removal says hardest part was getting the gearbox over the rack and pipes , so in theory if no box is coming out it should be good , what area are you in , in case we are nearish , for a hand , I am in herts
I’m in north east Kent . It’ll come out ok now . I have got myself a full rebuild kit with oversize pistons, just have to see if the block is not too ovaled for them ,
Otherwise it’s a summit racing forged lm7 which should outlive me !
After the few occasions I've removed/replaced my proflow headers this is the best solution I've found .
It's a 16mm injector socket from a set off ebay that I have ground out the center slot to accommodate the pipe diameter then with the aid of a couple of long extensions you can quite easily undo/tighten the pipes to the rack from the front of the car down by the AC compressor from the top side (may need to remove the battery but I can't recall) . Don't over tighten them though as they can crack and leak.
It's a 16mm injector socket from a set off ebay that I have ground out the center slot to accommodate the pipe diameter then with the aid of a couple of long extensions you can quite easily undo/tighten the pipes to the rack from the front of the car down by the AC compressor from the top side (may need to remove the battery but I can't recall) . Don't over tighten them though as they can crack and leak.
Edited by L2VXR on Wednesday 26th June 14:57
fred bloggs said:
And back in ? It doesn’t look like there is room between the back of the sump and the rack.
Anyhow, I’ve dropped the rack this evening. Probably the most hateful job on my car with those headers.
Crank sensor is easy though, LOL
Yes went back in the same - possibly took the bonnet off but think it stayed on... it was fiddly Anyhow, I’ve dropped the rack this evening. Probably the most hateful job on my car with those headers.
Crank sensor is easy though, LOL
vxr2010 said:
I'm surprised that it's actually worn , I thought a v8 would run for ages as less stress on the engine
140,000 miles, countless track days, open trumpets ect ect. It’s due a refresh really.
Got it out ok with help from a mate, always good to have a spotter on hand. I did drop the rack as I’m going to put a Vband on the headers.
My twin plate is still in very good condition,considering it’s been in 5 years now !!
Not so good was two bell housing bolts missing at the top and two on the pass side loose, causing this
Guess that’s what happens when someone else works on your car . It was done way back when I had a standard intake manifold on there and probably the person couldn’t be bothered to get in there . It’ll be fine with new bolts.
Rear main seal leaking heavily.
Edited by fred bloggs on Sunday 30th June 18:56
Edited by fred bloggs on Sunday 30th June 18:57
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