Getting started with Chimaera supplies
Discussion
Having recently purchased my first TVR, I am now the latest owner of a fairly original '98 Chimaera 4.0.
Firstly, wow. Everything makes so much more sense when I now go back and read all the different superlatives that people use when writing about them
I've been slowly working my way through 'The Bible (Second edition)' that came with the car. Each time I notice something that I don't understand (which is basically everything seeing as I've never done any mechanical or electrical work before) I come inside and sure enough there will be a full explanation about that area. Just need to start learning what it all means and then I guess it will begin to make sense!
Anyway, besides trying to find any excuse these first few days to take the car out for a drive, I've also been going through the hundreds of posts on here to pick up as much as I can.
So, I was hoping someone could check the below supplies / parts that I am thinking of getting as a start and let me know if I am on the right track:
Already done:
Firstly, wow. Everything makes so much more sense when I now go back and read all the different superlatives that people use when writing about them
I've been slowly working my way through 'The Bible (Second edition)' that came with the car. Each time I notice something that I don't understand (which is basically everything seeing as I've never done any mechanical or electrical work before) I come inside and sure enough there will be a full explanation about that area. Just need to start learning what it all means and then I guess it will begin to make sense!
Anyway, besides trying to find any excuse these first few days to take the car out for a drive, I've also been going through the hundreds of posts on here to pick up as much as I can.
So, I was hoping someone could check the below supplies / parts that I am thinking of getting as a start and let me know if I am on the right track:
Already done:
- Rain-X: I've applied this to the front windscreen as I think that the current set of wipers/blades may need a refresh in the coming months
- Wynns Injector Cleaner: I put a bottle of this in the tank over the weekend just in case it did anything useful - I appreciate that there are mixed views on whether this works or not but thought it couldn't really do much harm so worth a shot
- Filled up a couple of times with Super Unleaded (Esso Synergy Supreme+ 99) as the previous owner advised he had always used Super Unleaded too - will keep using this going forward and then probably not worry about adding too many more petrol/injector cleaners as I think this already has similar additives in it
- I suppose I should always have some oil to hand and regularly check the level and top up as needed - I seem to have understood that Valvoline VR1 Racing 20W-50 is well regarded for these engines so was planning on getting a 5L bottle of this?
- The previous owner had the car on a battery conditioner but I don't have this option in the car park where it is now kept, so thought I should probably just change out the battery for a new one at some point and start afresh with that. The battery is still in the original position in the passenger footwell and I am happy to keep it there for now, so was considering a 072 Enduroline from the Tayna website as this seems to tick the right boxes (should fit into the space, terminals right way around, 660 CCA)?
- Am thinking about getting a Battery Brain (or similar) to compliment the new battery seeing as this suggestion often pops up in posts, although I was also wondering if I could just get a more simple battery isolation switch (those ones with the red key to turn it on and off) and use that instead?
- Change the boot strut as discussed by other users so that there is better access when storing the roof: either the original suggestion of the SGS product or the alternative Citroen AX option that I've seen is still being sold by several sellers on eBay (can't link to the post as not been registered for long enough it seems)
Edited by _Cosmos_ on Sunday 1st September 17:36
With regards to batteries fit something quality with a decent name such as bosch/varta.
People have fitted isolators so a search should show you how they did it.
Only concerns here are killing the alarm power and the ecu which when reset needs a certain time of running to re learn the parameters.
The car may run a bit rough while this happens but it shouldn't take long.
People have fitted isolators so a search should show you how they did it.
Only concerns here are killing the alarm power and the ecu which when reset needs a certain time of running to re learn the parameters.
The car may run a bit rough while this happens but it shouldn't take long.
The boot bracket I bought is now out of stock on ebay, but it does make it easier to fill up as well as get the roof into the boot.
Could be worth contacting the seller to see if any more will be made available:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284039631842
The reasons for a battery conditioner vary, but the previous owner of mine kept it on a CTek because there was a drain.
I found the drain without really meaning to, and now I only really use the charger if it's going to be really cold outside, but also slightly because I don't use it every day so the battery will naturally drop its voltage. I am lucky enough to have a driveway with an external socket, but not lucky enough to have a garage.
Regarding oil, there is a healthy debate on that, I also use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 mineral, but I wouldn't be adding oil unless you know what's already in there. Do you know when the oil was last changed? If you're not sure, can you ask the previous owner, then top up with that until it's ready for a service?
It's worth bearing in mind that these old girls can drip a little, but also depending on a few factors may burn through a bit of oil - I spoke with Str8six about it, and they said it's not unusual to see 1L per 1000 miles, so I bought a couple of extra 1L bottles when I did the service, and just check levels every so often.
But also check levels on all other bits - particularly the coolant (swirl pot should be pretty much brimming, not the expansion tank); and the clutch master cylinder (annoyingly under the black cover) because the master and slave cylinder seals eventually deteriorate, and there really isn't much fluid in that little system to lose (I learned this the hard way).
You will develop an intimate relationship with your car, especially if you're hands-on, enjoy the simplicity of it, and enjoy it more when you're driving under a bridge with the roof down and giving it some beans
Could be worth contacting the seller to see if any more will be made available:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284039631842
The reasons for a battery conditioner vary, but the previous owner of mine kept it on a CTek because there was a drain.
I found the drain without really meaning to, and now I only really use the charger if it's going to be really cold outside, but also slightly because I don't use it every day so the battery will naturally drop its voltage. I am lucky enough to have a driveway with an external socket, but not lucky enough to have a garage.
Regarding oil, there is a healthy debate on that, I also use Valvoline VR1 20W-50 mineral, but I wouldn't be adding oil unless you know what's already in there. Do you know when the oil was last changed? If you're not sure, can you ask the previous owner, then top up with that until it's ready for a service?
It's worth bearing in mind that these old girls can drip a little, but also depending on a few factors may burn through a bit of oil - I spoke with Str8six about it, and they said it's not unusual to see 1L per 1000 miles, so I bought a couple of extra 1L bottles when I did the service, and just check levels every so often.
But also check levels on all other bits - particularly the coolant (swirl pot should be pretty much brimming, not the expansion tank); and the clutch master cylinder (annoyingly under the black cover) because the master and slave cylinder seals eventually deteriorate, and there really isn't much fluid in that little system to lose (I learned this the hard way).
You will develop an intimate relationship with your car, especially if you're hands-on, enjoy the simplicity of it, and enjoy it more when you're driving under a bridge with the roof down and giving it some beans
PabloGee said:
The boot bracket I bought is now out of stock on ebay, but it does make it easier to fill up as well as get the roof into the boot.
Could be worth contacting the seller to see if any more will be made available
Many thanks for this, @PabloGee - have messaged the seller and hopefully can get one of these sometime soon when the next batch is ready. Looks like a really clean mod and a good one for me to start with.Could be worth contacting the seller to see if any more will be made available
Noted re. the other replies about the battery (I'll probably go with a Varta) and the engine oil (I will message the last owner this week and use the same type to top up until I then replace the oil with VR1 at the next service).
Regards oil. The original spec is for 10/40 semi synthetic.
I’d only use VR1 20/50 on an already very worn engine or one displaying noise.
This is like a sticking plaster as the over tolorance (wear) issue causing noise or possibly blow by past pistons so likely piston ring or bore wear issues will not be removed by using thicker oil although it may mask issues for awhile.
Same applies to cam or follower wear which is where most noise issues are found on TVR engines.
It’s true to say you possibly get more engine noise on 10/40 than 20/50 especially on a cold engine.
I found using a pint of mineral 20/50 in my 10/40 semi mix was enough to quieten down engine noise.
The problem with 20/50 is it resists movement and slows the engines rate of acceleration.
Also it’s good to note thicker oil is harder to push to its moving parts so though oil pressure might show higher on your gauge the amount of oil circulating is often slower which is why later RV8 engines run on 10/40 semi exactly as TVR used.
Most TVR have operated on 10/40 semi for decades and even using high lift sports cams as fitted to Tvr and have often lasted well past 50,000 miles which for any sports cam fitted to an old design such as the RV8 engine is actually a pretty good life expectancy.
I’d only use VR1 20/50 on an already very worn engine or one displaying noise.
This is like a sticking plaster as the over tolorance (wear) issue causing noise or possibly blow by past pistons so likely piston ring or bore wear issues will not be removed by using thicker oil although it may mask issues for awhile.
Same applies to cam or follower wear which is where most noise issues are found on TVR engines.
It’s true to say you possibly get more engine noise on 10/40 than 20/50 especially on a cold engine.
I found using a pint of mineral 20/50 in my 10/40 semi mix was enough to quieten down engine noise.
The problem with 20/50 is it resists movement and slows the engines rate of acceleration.
Also it’s good to note thicker oil is harder to push to its moving parts so though oil pressure might show higher on your gauge the amount of oil circulating is often slower which is why later RV8 engines run on 10/40 semi exactly as TVR used.
Most TVR have operated on 10/40 semi for decades and even using high lift sports cams as fitted to Tvr and have often lasted well past 50,000 miles which for any sports cam fitted to an old design such as the RV8 engine is actually a pretty good life expectancy.
KugaWestie said:
@Pabloegee where was your parasitic drain?
It was a hot start kit in the footwell where the relay had been incorrectly wired, so it was constantly energised.The whole story starts on page 7 of this thread, but here's a pic of the offending little badger and why I paid attention to it.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
_Cosmos_ said:
- The previous owner had the car on a battery conditioner but I don't have this option in the car park where it is now kept, so thought I should probably just change out the battery for a new one at some point and start afresh with that. The battery is still in the original position in the passenger footwell and I am happy to keep it there for now, so was considering a 072 Enduroline from the Tayna website as this seems to tick the right boxes (should fit into the space, terminals right way around, 660 CCA)?
_Cosmos_ said:
- Am thinking about getting a Battery Brain (or similar) to compliment the new battery seeing as this suggestion often pops up in posts, although I was also wondering if I could just get a more simple battery isolation switch (those ones with the red key to turn it on and off) and use that instead?
_Cosmos_ said:
- Change the boot strut as discussed by other users so that there is better access when storing the roof: either the original suggestion of the SGS product or the alternative Citroen AX option that I've seen is still being sold by several sellers on eBay (can't link to the post as not been registered for long enough it seems)
I've bought a pair from this seller before and gifted one to a mate. you want to chose
- Force(N): 300N
- Fittings: None
- Finish: Black (I't not an MG )
- Single/Pair: Single
(Unless you have a Mk3 in which case ignore all of this as they're completely different)edit I see you have a 98 so ignore that you have a mk2 - Length (mm): 500mm or 550mm check your existing ones.
Edited by indigochim on Thursday 13th June 12:46
As stated, it isn't the length of the boot strut but the hinge and bracket arrangement.
If you car is an early one / mk1 - with the alloy button / lolly pop type boot hinges then this bracket would give you a wider opening boot lid using the same strut.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284039631842
Out of stock but might be worth contacting them - nothing to do with me. In fairness, hardly a difficult thing to replicate but for the price ..
While you're adding some stainless greatness you may wish to fit a set of these to help with 'managing' the seatbelts. Again, nothing to do with me.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303164290248?epid=70298...
Finally, you may also wish to consider contacting 'phillpot' on here for a pair of these that enable the seat belt to retract properly. I understand they are commissioning a new run of pairs to be made up.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
There is an alternative but need a bit of 'cold setting'
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303613646093?itmmeta=01...
I have no affiliation with any of the products I have linked to.
Oh, Phillpot also has a set of freshly refurbed 260mm front brakes if yours has the 240mm set up. Nice easy upgrade.
See, easily speant the money you saved on that new battery
If you car is an early one / mk1 - with the alloy button / lolly pop type boot hinges then this bracket would give you a wider opening boot lid using the same strut.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284039631842
Out of stock but might be worth contacting them - nothing to do with me. In fairness, hardly a difficult thing to replicate but for the price ..
While you're adding some stainless greatness you may wish to fit a set of these to help with 'managing' the seatbelts. Again, nothing to do with me.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303164290248?epid=70298...
Finally, you may also wish to consider contacting 'phillpot' on here for a pair of these that enable the seat belt to retract properly. I understand they are commissioning a new run of pairs to be made up.
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
There is an alternative but need a bit of 'cold setting'
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303613646093?itmmeta=01...
I have no affiliation with any of the products I have linked to.
Oh, Phillpot also has a set of freshly refurbed 260mm front brakes if yours has the 240mm set up. Nice easy upgrade.
See, easily speant the money you saved on that new battery
Thanks all for these super helpful replies and suggestions, really appreciated.
@indigochim you have the 500mm version as I remember reading your comment on the original post about the struts:
Re. the battery isolator, I think this could still be something that I put on at some point, but I do note the valid comments about the ECU/Alarm - I may therefore do this mod down the line and then leave the battery 'on' for most of the year (assuming I can use the car at least semi-regularly) and then just use the 'off' setting only when I know it won't be driven for a period of time (i.e. in the depths of winter).
And yes, finding things to update or tweak doesn't seem to be a problem with these cars so I'd agree that perhaps I need to first see what non-negotiable work is required before getting too carried away!
@indigochim you have the 500mm version as I remember reading your comment on the original post about the struts:
indigochim said:
Not quite as long as the SGS ones at 500mm but this is slightly longer than my original ones. They're slightly up on the force but only 300 to 250 so don't twist my boot when open but do push it up without effort and £17 for a pair I donated my 2nd one to a mate.
I also had a better look at that boot bracket that had been suggested after I read the comment by mk1fan and this probably would not work on my mk2, so it does seem like the above strut mentioned by indigochim (and very clear list of options to select!) is a good one.Re. the battery isolator, I think this could still be something that I put on at some point, but I do note the valid comments about the ECU/Alarm - I may therefore do this mod down the line and then leave the battery 'on' for most of the year (assuming I can use the car at least semi-regularly) and then just use the 'off' setting only when I know it won't be driven for a period of time (i.e. in the depths of winter).
And yes, finding things to update or tweak doesn't seem to be a problem with these cars so I'd agree that perhaps I need to first see what non-negotiable work is required before getting too carried away!
All good suggestions from mk1fan, though I have heard the seatbelt 'management' things that attach to the headrest stalks can cause the seatbelts to fray on the edges.
I love the Philpot bracket things though.
It is worth considering replacing the whole seatbelt rig if they are the originals, I have done this and they retract quite happily.
To be honest, these little tweaks are fun, and worth having in mind, but get to know the car first, and it will let you know where to spend your money, and hopefully that's largely superunleaded!
I love the Philpot bracket things though.
It is worth considering replacing the whole seatbelt rig if they are the originals, I have done this and they retract quite happily.
To be honest, these little tweaks are fun, and worth having in mind, but get to know the car first, and it will let you know where to spend your money, and hopefully that's largely superunleaded!
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