Discussion
You should join the UK Z4 forum, loads of owners and some stickies answering all your questions and more.
In terms of the car itself and the cost, how important is it to be an M car and is the money comfortable for you to spend? A 3.0si Coupe is (as agreed by owners of both) 80% of the car for 50% of the money. Yes there is the electronic steering and the lower power output, but you have the N52 engine which most accept is one of the legendary engines BMW made that also has the bonus of being pretty much bullet proof without the challenges of the S54.
In terms of the car itself and the cost, how important is it to be an M car and is the money comfortable for you to spend? A 3.0si Coupe is (as agreed by owners of both) 80% of the car for 50% of the money. Yes there is the electronic steering and the lower power output, but you have the N52 engine which most accept is one of the legendary engines BMW made that also has the bonus of being pretty much bullet proof without the challenges of the S54.
anonymous said:
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https://z4-forum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=56599&a...
Have had mine 15 years now, and love it still
Rod bearings is all down to whether you know how the car has been driven, if you don't, get it done as preventative maintenance. £1600 does seem a bit strong mind you
Not heard any of them being stolen, and Vanos not really a thing either. Not the fastest but it's not all about the 0-60 is it....
Rod bearings is all down to whether you know how the car has been driven, if you don't, get it done as preventative maintenance. £1600 does seem a bit strong mind you
Not heard any of them being stolen, and Vanos not really a thing either. Not the fastest but it's not all about the 0-60 is it....
I always had rod bearings on my 'to do' list since the car hit 100,000 miles...but there was always something else to spend the cash on at the time (coilovers, carbon intake, carbon spoiler, carbon seats, etc.)...but mine lasted until 160,000 miles before they started to grumble.
My clutch also lasted to 140,000 miles, so despite it doing plenty of track days and ring trips, along with (initially) 20,000 miles a year commuting, it certainly wasn't driven like a garage queen.
I suppose it depends how you frame the cost, and what your annual mileage is likely to be. Even if I'd done mine every 60,000 miles (or at about the same schedule as an Inspection 2), then that would have been an additional £1k bill (rod bearings) every 2-3 years for me or less than £400/year.
Based on my 30k total annual mileage (commuting, track days, touring):
My clutch also lasted to 140,000 miles, so despite it doing plenty of track days and ring trips, along with (initially) 20,000 miles a year commuting, it certainly wasn't driven like a garage queen.
I suppose it depends how you frame the cost, and what your annual mileage is likely to be. Even if I'd done mine every 60,000 miles (or at about the same schedule as an Inspection 2), then that would have been an additional £1k bill (rod bearings) every 2-3 years for me or less than £400/year.
Based on my 30k total annual mileage (commuting, track days, touring):
- fuel was over £5000 a year
- VED was over £500/year
- tyres cost over £700/year
- normal servicing costs over £1000/year (although I did more frequent servicing due to tracking it)
Edited by mmm-five on Wednesday 14th February 15:02
I bought my MC in December 2019 on 76K miles and spent some time trying to decide what to do about the bearings shells.
In the end for peace of mind I got them replaced at 78K miles and was glad I did!
I've seen worse ones at lower mileages, and less worn ones after over 100K. I think a lot depends on how the car has been treated, if thrashed from cold, etc. but given their age now you'll never really know when buying so if buying around 80K I'd do them anyway as you're unlikely to need to do them again!
I paid about £1K at an ex-Sytner BMW Indy in Hampshire which included new engine mounts that if anything were in a worse state than the bearing shells!
As for theft I don't think it's an issue these days - the scroats that seem to be after S3s, Gold Rs and Land Rovers probably wouldn't know what they were.
I know there are much faster cars these days but even so 5 seconds from 0-62 still isn't slow to me.
That Cat C repaired one is a bit of an oddball. It used to be the case that an Auotlign Inspection would get the Cat marker removed, and seeing as Autotrader don't show a Cat marker it looks like that is what happened - but I'd still do an HPI check. It's also a real rarity as the UK only got 10 Sepang Bronze MCs which seems to have a strong following, although I'd rather have Imola Red! But in view of it's history I'd want to pay less for it.
I had two 3.0Si Coupes before I bought my MC and as someone said earlier they are pretty much 80% of the car for 50% of the money, but the extra 20% you get from an MC was a price worth paying just to have the S54 engine soundtrack. And you'll get the extra money back when you sell anyway, although it'll cost a fair bit more to run for parts, Road Tax and servicing with the Inspection services when valve clearances need checking and possibly adjusting with shims!
I knew it was going to come at a cost but I love it so I don't mind paying - it just depends whether you would.
At least with only 592 MCs being registered in the UK they are pretty rare too.
In the end for peace of mind I got them replaced at 78K miles and was glad I did!
I've seen worse ones at lower mileages, and less worn ones after over 100K. I think a lot depends on how the car has been treated, if thrashed from cold, etc. but given their age now you'll never really know when buying so if buying around 80K I'd do them anyway as you're unlikely to need to do them again!
I paid about £1K at an ex-Sytner BMW Indy in Hampshire which included new engine mounts that if anything were in a worse state than the bearing shells!
As for theft I don't think it's an issue these days - the scroats that seem to be after S3s, Gold Rs and Land Rovers probably wouldn't know what they were.
I know there are much faster cars these days but even so 5 seconds from 0-62 still isn't slow to me.
That Cat C repaired one is a bit of an oddball. It used to be the case that an Auotlign Inspection would get the Cat marker removed, and seeing as Autotrader don't show a Cat marker it looks like that is what happened - but I'd still do an HPI check. It's also a real rarity as the UK only got 10 Sepang Bronze MCs which seems to have a strong following, although I'd rather have Imola Red! But in view of it's history I'd want to pay less for it.
I had two 3.0Si Coupes before I bought my MC and as someone said earlier they are pretty much 80% of the car for 50% of the money, but the extra 20% you get from an MC was a price worth paying just to have the S54 engine soundtrack. And you'll get the extra money back when you sell anyway, although it'll cost a fair bit more to run for parts, Road Tax and servicing with the Inspection services when valve clearances need checking and possibly adjusting with shims!
I knew it was going to come at a cost but I love it so I don't mind paying - it just depends whether you would.
At least with only 592 MCs being registered in the UK they are pretty rare too.
There are a lot of good points made above and I would also recommend that you drive the regular E86 3.0si
They are still a rare car and go rather well but this would allow you to try one at a lower cost before committing to an M. When I bought my 3.0si in 2022 I was using a 640d GC as my daily car and after the novelty of getting back into a petrol manual it did very few miles as it felt like hard work.
I have since sold the 640 and I am now running around in an iX3 and can't wait to get out in the Z once I tax it at the end of the month as I get the feeling it will feel quite special. Even now when I get in my wife's X3 M40d that feels really quite raw compared to the EV.
Rod bearings as you have found out do require addressing but in the grand scheme of things it is not a huge job and gives you peace of mind. It would also be a selling point should you decide the car is not for you.
One other thing to bear in mind is that the coupe is a lot stiffer than the roadster. I really notice the difference between the two so maybe look at both body types before you decide. Coupes are always more expensive than the roadsters.
They are still a rare car and go rather well but this would allow you to try one at a lower cost before committing to an M. When I bought my 3.0si in 2022 I was using a 640d GC as my daily car and after the novelty of getting back into a petrol manual it did very few miles as it felt like hard work.
I have since sold the 640 and I am now running around in an iX3 and can't wait to get out in the Z once I tax it at the end of the month as I get the feeling it will feel quite special. Even now when I get in my wife's X3 M40d that feels really quite raw compared to the EV.
Rod bearings as you have found out do require addressing but in the grand scheme of things it is not a huge job and gives you peace of mind. It would also be a selling point should you decide the car is not for you.
One other thing to bear in mind is that the coupe is a lot stiffer than the roadster. I really notice the difference between the two so maybe look at both body types before you decide. Coupes are always more expensive than the roadsters.
Make sure that you get a good test drive in one, because I found both the ride and gearbox very frustrating in mine(Z4M Roadster). The suspension had absolutely no give in it whatsoever, so throwing it down a bumpy B road could be quite scary at times. I had a TVR Cerbera for 6 years as well, and that never scared me in the same way that the Z4M did in comparison.
cerb4.5lee said:
Make sure that you get a good test drive in one, because I found both the ride and gearbox very frustrating in mine(Z4M Roadster). The suspension had absolutely no give in it whatsoever, so throwing it down a bumpy B road could be quite scary at times. I had a TVR Cerbera for 6 years as well, and that never scared me in the same way that the Z4M did in comparison.
That's a good point I think the worst bit of the cars is the gearbox at low speed going from 1st to 2nd. Some people have the clutch delay valve removed but some say it doesn't make any difference and others do.anonymous said:
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I owned a Z4MR and a Z4MC. From what I can see prices have softened slightly and haven’t really changed much relative to the wider market in the last 5 years for reference I paid £15.5k for an MR in 2012, £13.5k for an MC in 2015 and sold for £19k in 2018 (although I added CSL’s, Aeros and a Gruppe M induction kit).From memory here are some useful points:
- Timing chain tensioner, this may just need tightening or is a relatively cheap fix.
- Rear diff weeping, again quite a few do this and it’s just something to be aware of.
- The fixings on the front bumper (between the bumper and front wing) can warp if not taken off properly and need to be replaced
- The lower “fangs” on the front bumper are often scraped.
- The support bars behind the grille get chipped/flake easily (again a simple fix).
- Check the central rear brake light as these often crack.
- Gas struts on the boot are often weak if not replaced
- Check the pull out cover for the rear boot of the coupe sometimes the clips are damaged/broken and I don’t believe these can be purchased separately (maybe they could be 3d printed)
- Dash without the Nav looks better in my opinion
- 10 speaker stereo is a nice option to have
- Get the wheel alignment done by someone reputable and pull the camber pins on the front.
- Standard tyres are useless, I fitted Michelins and found the ride to be improved even on CSL’s
- Discs need replacing every 40-50k miles approx.
Both of mine were reliable and I really enjoyed both of mine… CSL’s, Aeros and an induction kit really enhance the car in my opinion and would be a must if I purchased one in future.
Yes, my MC also needed a new cam-chain tensioner when I had my Inspection 2 done. The new one cost about £160.
It's also worth checking the tailgate for rust, around the edges usually, as a few Coupe owners had the get them repaired or replaced during the 12 year Corrosion Warranty period.
It's also worth checking the tailgate for rust, around the edges usually, as a few Coupe owners had the get them repaired or replaced during the 12 year Corrosion Warranty period.
anonymous said:
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I had a 2012 Mk2 TTS, and it was a nice thing to live with. However I didn't think that it was all that dynamic to drive though(lifeless steering and front biased 4wd). I have only read good things about the Mk3 TTS though, plus I personally love the shape of the Mk3 as well.
anonymous said:
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I’ve been told the same thing when I mentioned a Cayman / Z4M even though it can’t remember the last time the back seats in my car were used!I wouldn’t stress about mileage; condition and service history are more important. My wife’s 330i is just about to tick over 169k.
coldel said:
When did the issue of 2 kids come up 
Surely that erm should have been in the mix as a factor from the off if this purchase was needed to get the kids around?
Bear in mind the height limit in the back of a TT is something daft like four and a half feet tall.
Or just choose the favourite one to take out with you! Surely that erm should have been in the mix as a factor from the off if this purchase was needed to get the kids around?
Bear in mind the height limit in the back of a TT is something daft like four and a half feet tall.
Court_S said:
coldel said:
When did the issue of 2 kids come up
Surely that erm should have been in the mix as a factor from the off if this purchase was needed to get the kids around?
Bear in mind the height limit in the back of a TT is something daft like four and a half feet tall.
Or just choose the favourite one to take out with you! Surely that erm should have been in the mix as a factor from the off if this purchase was needed to get the kids around?
Bear in mind the height limit in the back of a TT is something daft like four and a half feet tall.
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