Confused now and p*$$ed off
Discussion
New TP arrived this morning.... fitted it with the wires as per originasl TP as the new one (not FORD) has silver connectors... Started car.. it idled at 1100 then the idle increased and it settled at 2500rpm and would not drop until I turned engine off....
So I though switch the outer wires and see if this fixes it.... car ticked over and the correct level but was lumpy and when I blipped the throttle the revs increase was slightly delayed and when it dropped back down it dropped so far it stalled.
I was under the impression a new TP would work straight away or does the ECU need a few minutes to settle down and figure out its idle speed when a new TP has been fitted?
At the weekend when I was trying bits it did do this with the TP I borrowed from Ceejay but as I had been swapping TPs round I put it down to the ECU geting confused and then didn't play any more as I knew the new TP would be here soon.
Prior to the high revving incident I cleaned the connectors on Saturday ie the big block under the plennum and the TP connector (used a squirt of WD40 and it is still wet from this.... could this be shorting the connections?)
I also removed the plugs and cleaned them with a wire brush to get all the muck off them... (engine had been running rich so a bit black!!)
I didn't reset the spark plug gaps when I did this could this be the problem....
Oh when the TP is disconnected it stops the high revving but is a bit lumping and the tickover moves about a bit between about 850 and 1100 rpm...
Any ideas cos I am now not happy
>> Edited by doddze on Tuesday 6th September 08:48
>> Edited by doddze on Tuesday 6th September 08:57
>> Edited by doddze on Tuesday 6th September 09:33
So I though switch the outer wires and see if this fixes it.... car ticked over and the correct level but was lumpy and when I blipped the throttle the revs increase was slightly delayed and when it dropped back down it dropped so far it stalled.
I was under the impression a new TP would work straight away or does the ECU need a few minutes to settle down and figure out its idle speed when a new TP has been fitted?
At the weekend when I was trying bits it did do this with the TP I borrowed from Ceejay but as I had been swapping TPs round I put it down to the ECU geting confused and then didn't play any more as I knew the new TP would be here soon.
Prior to the high revving incident I cleaned the connectors on Saturday ie the big block under the plennum and the TP connector (used a squirt of WD40 and it is still wet from this.... could this be shorting the connections?)
I also removed the plugs and cleaned them with a wire brush to get all the muck off them... (engine had been running rich so a bit black!!)
I didn't reset the spark plug gaps when I did this could this be the problem....
Oh when the TP is disconnected it stops the high revving but is a bit lumping and the tickover moves about a bit between about 850 and 1100 rpm...
Any ideas cos I am now not happy
>> Edited by doddze on Tuesday 6th September 08:48
>> Edited by doddze on Tuesday 6th September 08:57
>> Edited by doddze on Tuesday 6th September 09:33
I thought the new TP should work immediately.
But it's possible that you may need to reset the ECU and wipe it's mappings. Not sure how you do this - but at a guess - disconnect and reconnect the battery (make sure you put your alarm into valet mode before doing so).
Hope this helps,
Danny
But it's possible that you may need to reset the ECU and wipe it's mappings. Not sure how you do this - but at a guess - disconnect and reconnect the battery (make sure you put your alarm into valet mode before doing so).
Hope this helps,
Danny
Might be a red herring but I'd check the top AFM as well. I had EXACTLY the same symptoms you've described and chased my tail on TPs and the like. Tickover was OK for a while then jumped to 2k and stayed there until I turned the engine off and restarted.
Turns out the top AFM heated wire was caked in oily gunk. Gave it a (careful) de-gunk with carb cleaner and a cotton bud and its been fine ever since.
For the 10 minutes it takes, it could be worth a go
Turns out the top AFM heated wire was caked in oily gunk. Gave it a (careful) de-gunk with carb cleaner and a cotton bud and its been fine ever since.
For the 10 minutes it takes, it could be worth a go

So if it was the air flow meters causing your problem I am trying to think what is my equivilant bit as I wonder if I have knocked something when rooting around
I have just tried the car with the idle valve disconnected and funnily enough it doesn't rev up to 2500 rpm but obviously the idle is a bit ropey as it isn't being controlled.....
It uses the same connection box as the TP.... so could the WD40 be shorting out signals in the same block or doesn't it conduct electricity???
>> Edited by doddze on Tuesday 6th September 10:41
I have just tried the car with the idle valve disconnected and funnily enough it doesn't rev up to 2500 rpm but obviously the idle is a bit ropey as it isn't being controlled.....
It uses the same connection box as the TP.... so could the WD40 be shorting out signals in the same block or doesn't it conduct electricity???
>> Edited by doddze on Tuesday 6th September 10:41
Thinking out loud here, if its not TP (and it still may be) then could be one of the other usual suspects - Engine Coolant Sensor, Idle Speed Control Valve, Lambdas etc.
Any of these playing up (or with dodgy wiring - as you rightly state) could cause the ECU to get 'confused'.
Either a bit of trial and error required then or off to your local diagnostic centre for an ECU interrogation...
Any of these playing up (or with dodgy wiring - as you rightly state) could cause the ECU to get 'confused'.
Either a bit of trial and error required then or off to your local diagnostic centre for an ECU interrogation...
oh FFS......
switched the wiring on the TP over again..... so now it is wired differently to Ceejay's.
Car is running perfectly.... tick over is solid at 900rpm... no hesitation..
It could have been a number of things I guess but after checking everything about 3 times.... disconnecting battery to reset ECU... letting the connectors dry out from the WD40
switching wires and threatening the car with a large stick it is working fine...and my
is back
switched the wiring on the TP over again..... so now it is wired differently to Ceejay's.
Car is running perfectly.... tick over is solid at 900rpm... no hesitation..
It could have been a number of things I guess but after checking everything about 3 times.... disconnecting battery to reset ECU... letting the connectors dry out from the WD40
switching wires and threatening the car with a large stick it is working fine...and my
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