Starter won't crank when hot
Discussion
I was hunting for a suitable hot start thread to bump but my issue may be slightly different.
When cold the starter cranks at a decent rate and starts without issue.
After a decent run (even in cold weather) If I stop and try and restart the car The fuel pump primes but then nothing on the starter not even a slow try at starting. I don't have the original immobiliser none was fitted when I bought the car but a Cobra one has been fitted a few years ago. If I cool down the starter by poring water down the inner wing in the general area of the starter then it fires up straight away.
I've read so many comments about issues with the spec of the cables to the starter and the earth are these likely in this instance? I would expect them to slow rather than stop. The starter was off the care earlier in the year while I was having to have the faces of my manifolds resurfaced could it be that the starter to engine facing have oxidised and need cleaning up. I'm going to try and get to it at the weekend but just want to get what tests I can do before just buying a new starter.
When cold the starter cranks at a decent rate and starts without issue.
After a decent run (even in cold weather) If I stop and try and restart the car The fuel pump primes but then nothing on the starter not even a slow try at starting. I don't have the original immobiliser none was fitted when I bought the car but a Cobra one has been fitted a few years ago. If I cool down the starter by poring water down the inner wing in the general area of the starter then it fires up straight away.
I've read so many comments about issues with the spec of the cables to the starter and the earth are these likely in this instance? I would expect them to slow rather than stop. The starter was off the care earlier in the year while I was having to have the faces of my manifolds resurfaced could it be that the starter to engine facing have oxidised and need cleaning up. I'm going to try and get to it at the weekend but just want to get what tests I can do before just buying a new starter.
I’d start with cables, including the battery clamps themselves, then the earths, then the battery condition. If all those are fine, it’s the starter.
I have a 6.2 L Monaro that has very similar symptoms, turned out to be the positive battery clamp not clamping tightly enough. A hot engine puts more stress on the electrical connections so start there.
I have a 6.2 L Monaro that has very similar symptoms, turned out to be the positive battery clamp not clamping tightly enough. A hot engine puts more stress on the electrical connections so start there.
Thanks, I've already checked all the cables where tight inc the ones to the battery (which is reasonable new and in good condition). The spade on the solenoid was slack but not falling off. I nipped that up hoping it was magic fix but I clearly didn't get the engine hot enough to test after that as I let it warm up and cycle through the fans kicking in a couple of times and it started fine but after driving home it failed.
I'll check the voltage there and also the engine earth. I may as well clean up the faces where the starter mates to the gearbox casting as I guess that's how it gets it's earth.
I'll check the voltage there and also the engine earth. I may as well clean up the faces where the starter mates to the gearbox casting as I guess that's how it gets it's earth.
Out of interest
Why pour water over the area of starter motor? Car can be left parked up and re-checked when stone cold
Without interfering with anything on the vehicle - Starter failing when hot is more often than not proven to be caused by bad commutation or a sticking solenoid plunger
Proving bad commutation is often successfully achieved by hitting the starter motor barrel with a big hammer or length of bar if it's out of reach
or
Test with a voltmeter
Why pour water over the area of starter motor? Car can be left parked up and re-checked when stone cold
Without interfering with anything on the vehicle - Starter failing when hot is more often than not proven to be caused by bad commutation or a sticking solenoid plunger
Proving bad commutation is often successfully achieved by hitting the starter motor barrel with a big hammer or length of bar if it's out of reach
or
Test with a voltmeter
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