DPF-forcing regen?
Discussion
Finally got round to fixings a rear in the boost hose, cleared the code and now one for the DPF has flashed up on ISTA as well as on the dash.
I tried previously to force regen, coolant temp & exhaust temp all above required but I assume the dodgy boost hose fault kept it from happening. I get through the page on ISTA and it says regen requested but not active.
Is there anything else which might stop this from happening? I've just filled up fuel and plan to go for a longer drive to try force it.
Is there anyway for clean it out or force the regen another way?
I tried previously to force regen, coolant temp & exhaust temp all above required but I assume the dodgy boost hose fault kept it from happening. I get through the page on ISTA and it says regen requested but not active.
Is there anything else which might stop this from happening? I've just filled up fuel and plan to go for a longer drive to try force it.
Is there anyway for clean it out or force the regen another way?
You can force a regen with ISTA. However it will not do one with a dpf fault code present. I’ve found you need a driver while you sit on a very long dual carriageway/motorway at 60mph. You’ll need to clear the code then go straight to request a regen. I found the car needs to be hot for the code to stay long enough for a regen to start. Also needs lots of diesel in the tank and patience.
I’ve found if the swirl flaps are deleted on an M57 E9x it won’t regen.
I’ve found if the swirl flaps are deleted on an M57 E9x it won’t regen.
As well as coolant being up to temperature seem to recall also needs tank more than quarter full of diesel. Post on old BMWland forum with passenger kept clearing DPF code as car being driven and DPF did eventually regenerate. Think used a creator C110 code reader.
Edit and no fault codes on glowplugs (from memory)
Edit and no fault codes on glowplugs (from memory)
Edited by twokcc on Sunday 1st October 22:59
After recomendation from one of the BMW forums I downloaded bimmer-tool. It has a feature which continuously removes the code to allow regen.
No fault codes but the oil is now showing as too high on i-drive, I think it has been regenerating or trying too and the oil is now contaminated/watered down to the point is is flagging too high on i-drive
Started the app after a little drive and the coolant and exhaust temps were about the required. It was showing:
Soot mass - 57g (99%)
Ash level - 36g
The regen requested okay but was continuously dropping in and out of active which meant after an hour of driving I got the soot mass all the way down to 0%, but almost instantly after that it went back up to 13% and kept climbing from there as I drove back home through town. It registered that it had done a regen however. It had absolutely zero affect on the ash level. Is this normal? Do I need to keep doing this until it does eventually regen on its own and clear out the ash or is there anyway to do it? Is there anything I can spray through easily or add in to try clear out some of the ash?
Did a back pressure test before and after and it does seem to have helped
Back pressure (hPA)
Will put more fuel in and see how I get on again tomorrow, see how it behaves and if another regen will help and eventually if it stops dropping in and out.
Another option is to try force a static regen via another software which I think will be next step if after tomorrow it doesn't regen fully.
No fault codes but the oil is now showing as too high on i-drive, I think it has been regenerating or trying too and the oil is now contaminated/watered down to the point is is flagging too high on i-drive
Started the app after a little drive and the coolant and exhaust temps were about the required. It was showing:
Soot mass - 57g (99%)
Ash level - 36g
The regen requested okay but was continuously dropping in and out of active which meant after an hour of driving I got the soot mass all the way down to 0%, but almost instantly after that it went back up to 13% and kept climbing from there as I drove back home through town. It registered that it had done a regen however. It had absolutely zero affect on the ash level. Is this normal? Do I need to keep doing this until it does eventually regen on its own and clear out the ash or is there anyway to do it? Is there anything I can spray through easily or add in to try clear out some of the ash?
Did a back pressure test before and after and it does seem to have helped
Back pressure (hPA)
| Pre-RPM | Pre-Regen | Post-RPM | Post-Regen |
|---|---|---|---|
| 680 | 41 | 678 | 15 |
| 1858 | 188 | 1810 | 59 |
| 2745 | 274 | 2782 | 122 |
| 3604 | 454 | 3760 | 182 |
Will put more fuel in and see how I get on again tomorrow, see how it behaves and if another regen will help and eventually if it stops dropping in and out.
Another option is to try force a static regen via another software which I think will be next step if after tomorrow it doesn't regen fully.
Edited by bobski1 on Wednesday 4th October 23:39
helix402 said:
Good job. I’d change your oil though, diesels can run away on the engine oil if the level is too high.
I've got access to a hand pump so I'm going to try draw out some of the oil to bring it back to the right level. Trying not to do oil change after each regen as I don't think its fixed yet.The ash didn't move at all, late and very dark so couldn't see anything coming out of the back, I assume it needs doing again though maybe few more times?
Yep I think I will have a crack at it on the weekend and get some fresh oil in. Another forum is now suggesting to go for physical removal and cleaning, anybody have any good guides or places on where I can get this done?
Unsure on the cause on the blockage if it is just lots of urban journeys or something else is going on, the air hose split definitely didn't help but that is now fixed. Suggestions on what to look for would be appreciated.
Unsure on the cause on the blockage if it is just lots of urban journeys or something else is going on, the air hose split definitely didn't help but that is now fixed. Suggestions on what to look for would be appreciated.
The hose is probably enough to do it, bad fueling really clogs them up. I wouldn't bother exploring anymore, and certainly wouldn't look at removing it for a clean unless it comes back. The LCI models don't tend to suffer many issues as they moved the DPF.
A couple of months ago mine lost power/increase consumption. Through up DPF dash error etc. It needed a new EGR vacuum controller, glow plug control unit, new power cable as it had melted that too, new seals for intake manifold, plus a few other bits.
Your pre readings for back pressure were about 30% of what i had before a forced regen. It's been used more in the past month than I can recently remember (circa 2k) normally just sits outside/go to tip/tow track car. It's fine now.
A couple of months ago mine lost power/increase consumption. Through up DPF dash error etc. It needed a new EGR vacuum controller, glow plug control unit, new power cable as it had melted that too, new seals for intake manifold, plus a few other bits.
Your pre readings for back pressure were about 30% of what i had before a forced regen. It's been used more in the past month than I can recently remember (circa 2k) normally just sits outside/go to tip/tow track car. It's fine now.
If your dpf is full of ash as opposed to soot then no amount of regeneration will unblock it!
Physically removing the dpf from the car and back flushing is the only possible way to remove ash.
The ash particles are too large to pass through the dpf matrix.
Also, if you see soot coming from the tailpipe of a dpf equipped car then the dpf is melted or cracked, meaning renewal is neccessary.
I would avoid forced static regens if possible as there is a good chance of damaging or melting the matrix
Physically removing the dpf from the car and back flushing is the only possible way to remove ash.
The ash particles are too large to pass through the dpf matrix.
Also, if you see soot coming from the tailpipe of a dpf equipped car then the dpf is melted or cracked, meaning renewal is neccessary.
I would avoid forced static regens if possible as there is a good chance of damaging or melting the matrix
Next steps are
Oil change
Check the values again
If still high, another forced regen & oil change
If still high then I might remove and clean
The bit which is frustrating is I have no other codes so no clue where else to look, but guess it'll have to be the wait till it gets worse of flags a code techniques
No errors on the way home which is good but I did drive a bit spirited. Hopefully only a short term issue as new office is about 20miles away and mostly A roads
Oil change
Check the values again
If still high, another forced regen & oil change
If still high then I might remove and clean
The bit which is frustrating is I have no other codes so no clue where else to look, but guess it'll have to be the wait till it gets worse of flags a code techniques
No errors on the way home which is good but I did drive a bit spirited. Hopefully only a short term issue as new office is about 20miles away and mostly A roads
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