Radiator Shroud… pro and cons?
Discussion
where to Start....the fans are mounted on the shroud....therefore the fans are mounted with a certain distance to the radiator.
1. why the fans were not mounted directly on the rad or at least closer?
2. the shrouds cover at least 30% of the backsdie of the radiator...why this?
3. does no.2 not negatively effect the airflow through the radiator and as consequence reduce the cooling effect?
4.anybody fitted the fans without shroud?
1. why the fans were not mounted directly on the rad or at least closer?
2. the shrouds cover at least 30% of the backsdie of the radiator...why this?
3. does no.2 not negatively effect the airflow through the radiator and as consequence reduce the cooling effect?
4.anybody fitted the fans without shroud?
I don’t have all the answers but - my car has a shroud and has no cooling issues. My set-up is aftermarket but the main points to take care of are 1. any cooling issue, consider whether the radiator might need replaced / recored 2. Replace the expansion tank cap 3. Both fans kicking in. I have a single large Revotec fan against a shroud - it is very powerful and does the job well.
LLantrisant said:
where to Start....the fans are mounted on the shroud....therefore the fans are mounted with a certain distance to the radiator.
1. why the fans were not mounted directly on the rad or at least closer?
2. the shrouds cover at least 30% of the backsdie of the radiator...why this?
3. does no.2 not negatively effect the airflow through the radiator and as consequence reduce the cooling effect?
4.anybody fitted the fans without shroud?
Are you having over heating problems?1. why the fans were not mounted directly on the rad or at least closer?
2. the shrouds cover at least 30% of the backsdie of the radiator...why this?
3. does no.2 not negatively effect the airflow through the radiator and as consequence reduce the cooling effect?
4.anybody fitted the fans without shroud?
If so maybe a blocked rad or another issue.
The standard cooling set up is more than sufficient even on super hot climates.
I have sat in traffic in 40+ Celsius for hours with the air con on and not issues at all. Bloody awful traffic jam but it was a good proving ground, the Mustang a few cars in front of me ended up being pushed to the side in clouds of steam.
gruffalo said:
Are you having over heating problems?
If so maybe a blocked rad or another issue.
The standard cooling set up is more than sufficient even on super hot climates.
I have sat in traffic in 40+ Celsius for hours with the air con on and not issues at all. Bloody awful traffic jam but it was a good proving ground, the Mustang a few cars in front of me ended up being pushed to the side in clouds of steam.
no overheating issues..but the temperature is always on the limit. (speaking from the gauge...i know...its not that accurate....and i already have re-reouted the capillary away from the hot areas where it was mounted b4)... when its around 35degrees outside...maybe i should better check the temperature from the electric-sensor given to the ECU....also i´m not used to have cars with a completely covered radiator-backside..... from my simple way of thinking: the better flow, the more cold.If so maybe a blocked rad or another issue.
The standard cooling set up is more than sufficient even on super hot climates.
I have sat in traffic in 40+ Celsius for hours with the air con on and not issues at all. Bloody awful traffic jam but it was a good proving ground, the Mustang a few cars in front of me ended up being pushed to the side in clouds of steam.
LLantrisant said:
gruffalo said:
Are you having over heating problems?
If so maybe a blocked rad or another issue.
The standard cooling set up is more than sufficient even on super hot climates.
I have sat in traffic in 40+ Celsius for hours with the air con on and not issues at all. Bloody awful traffic jam but it was a good proving ground, the Mustang a few cars in front of me ended up being pushed to the side in clouds of steam.
no overheating issues..but the temperature is always on the limit. (speaking from the gauge...i know...its not that accurate....and i already have re-reouted the capillary away from the hot areas where it was mounted b4)... when its around 35degrees outside...maybe i should better check the temperature from the electric-sensor given to the ECU....also i´m not used to have cars with a completely covered radiator-backside..... from my simple way of thinking: the better flow, the more cold.If so maybe a blocked rad or another issue.
The standard cooling set up is more than sufficient even on super hot climates.
I have sat in traffic in 40+ Celsius for hours with the air con on and not issues at all. Bloody awful traffic jam but it was a good proving ground, the Mustang a few cars in front of me ended up being pushed to the side in clouds of steam.
I think all of my cars have a cowling round the radiator Volvo, Merc and Pug all ace covers to maximise the draw of the fan and ensure the fan pulls air through the radiator rather than from around it.
Spotted this from the guy selling bits
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325479503981?hash=item4...
He has fans etc as well.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325479503981?hash=item4...
He has fans etc as well.
Hi Nicols,
When my Radiator cracked, I bought a RadTec alloy one to replace it.
It came with the shroud welded into it and I've never had overheating probs so it could be the core of your Rad
OR
Air passage to it.
Do you have AirCon ?
If so, perhaps your Condenser is completely blocked and won't allow air passage through to the Rad ?
Also, if you haven't already done it, I would recommend replacing the Thermostat and the pipes with a Silicon set from ACT (other sources available - I just recommend them coz they work, very well).

When my Radiator cracked, I bought a RadTec alloy one to replace it.
It came with the shroud welded into it and I've never had overheating probs so it could be the core of your Rad
OR
Air passage to it.
Do you have AirCon ?
If so, perhaps your Condenser is completely blocked and won't allow air passage through to the Rad ?
Also, if you haven't already done it, I would recommend replacing the Thermostat and the pipes with a Silicon set from ACT (other sources available - I just recommend them coz they work, very well).


I'd suggest making sure you have the latest updated Bosch temperature sensor fitted, as a starting point. Mine failed, which meant the secondary fan didn't trigger, leaving the main fan doing all the work. The gauge was always on the high side in stop/start conditions, replaced that & it became more sensible (then did the rad, the lower pipes & the silicon hoses anyway, as the metal & rubber was reaching end of life) & it's always in the safe range now.
Gassing Station | Cerbera | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff