Throttle pot - can I just replace the wires?
Discussion
So I noticed a split in the insulation on one of the wires into the throttle pot.
I can't easily get a heat shrink sleeve on it to cover it, and it possibly signifies that the wires themselves are on the edge of brittle.
I don't have any malfunction, so it's currently holding up, but I'd rather deal with it than wait for it to go.
Any ideas whether I can just replace the wires and clip-in connector at the other end, rather than have to buy a new pot?
I can't easily get a heat shrink sleeve on it to cover it, and it possibly signifies that the wires themselves are on the edge of brittle.
I don't have any malfunction, so it's currently holding up, but I'd rather deal with it than wait for it to go.
Any ideas whether I can just replace the wires and clip-in connector at the other end, rather than have to buy a new pot?
Yes you csn, do a proper job and cut out any corroded wire and solder in new wire same gauge and cover in heat shrink.
( put heat shrink on and slide it out the way before completing the new solder joints)
BTW you cant buy new a tps but you can but Jenvy replacement I have fitted one works fine good kit but not cheap.
( put heat shrink on and slide it out the way before completing the new solder joints)
BTW you cant buy new a tps but you can but Jenvy replacement I have fitted one works fine good kit but not cheap.
Edited by blaze_away on Friday 15th September 19:16
Definitely a proper job on the wiring then.
New waterproof connector and wires for probably around a tenner, vs a new pot for near £200!
I was wondering if you can take the pot apart to fit/solder in within the unit, but it looks like it might be a sealed unit?
Slipped the corrugated sleeve back to find another split!
New waterproof connector and wires for probably around a tenner, vs a new pot for near £200!
I was wondering if you can take the pot apart to fit/solder in within the unit, but it looks like it might be a sealed unit?
Slipped the corrugated sleeve back to find another split!
It does, though I can't see why in that spot.
I'll look at the whole wire to see if it has any stiff sections - I replaced the wire to the swirl pot otter switch recently because the wire was similarly exposed, and the wire section that sat near the exhaust was quite stiff and brittle when I took it out.
Granted, this part of the engine is not as hot as the exhaust manifolds, but I bet the wires are the original loom.
I'm happy soldering in a new length and connector if it's the best thing to do.
You're not the only person who has suggested taping it, just feels like I'm postponing a bigger fix, or maybe even a snapped wire breakdown without a soldering iron to hand!
I'll look at the whole wire to see if it has any stiff sections - I replaced the wire to the swirl pot otter switch recently because the wire was similarly exposed, and the wire section that sat near the exhaust was quite stiff and brittle when I took it out.
Granted, this part of the engine is not as hot as the exhaust manifolds, but I bet the wires are the original loom.
I'm happy soldering in a new length and connector if it's the best thing to do.
You're not the only person who has suggested taping it, just feels like I'm postponing a bigger fix, or maybe even a snapped wire breakdown without a soldering iron to hand!
It could have been for a variable fuel pressure regulator or some such wizardry ?
Risk is the wires have started to corrode and might fail. You should be able to pullback slightly on the insulation and see how it looks.
Or snip to clean wire, slip over some heat shrink, solder then wrap. (by which I mean, snip at the break, strip back 4mm of insulation, snip off any corroded bits, slip on heat shrink, twist together, solder, shrink on heat shrink and finally wrap some self amalgamating insulationtape (as extra mechanical and sealing purposes)
It depends upon how corroded it looks.
Risk is the wires have started to corrode and might fail. You should be able to pullback slightly on the insulation and see how it looks.
Or snip to clean wire, slip over some heat shrink, solder then wrap. (by which I mean, snip at the break, strip back 4mm of insulation, snip off any corroded bits, slip on heat shrink, twist together, solder, shrink on heat shrink and finally wrap some self amalgamating insulationtape (as extra mechanical and sealing purposes)
It depends upon how corroded it looks.
Edited by Gary C on Friday 15th September 17:27
Edited by Gary C on Friday 15th September 17:30
Looks like heat cracking to me or maybe someone made a slice with a knife for electrical testing purposes?
Its not very common but you can get a liquid electrical product for things like this.
Link is just an example.
https://www.marinescene.co.uk/en/product/starbrite...
Its not very common but you can get a liquid electrical product for things like this.
Link is just an example.
https://www.marinescene.co.uk/en/product/starbrite...
Liquid electrical tape https://www.plastidip.co.uk/product/liquid-electri...
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