N/S electric window is boggling my brain
Discussion
I am turning to the Chimaera hivemind (ie. You good people) as a final resort - having been thoroughly discombobulated by my passenger side window.
I should note that I have read through (in minute detail) all the previous threads on this exact matter - stemming from 2012 - 2020 - and studied the wiring diagram in the Steve Heath bible.
The issue I have is that my passenger side window hardly ever opens. When the mechanism does (one time in every one-hundred) spool up the window cracks by about three inches but not further or otherwise.
To troubleshoot the issue I have:
Any suggestions? Or should I give it up as a bad job?
I should note that I have read through (in minute detail) all the previous threads on this exact matter - stemming from 2012 - 2020 - and studied the wiring diagram in the Steve Heath bible.
The issue I have is that my passenger side window hardly ever opens. When the mechanism does (one time in every one-hundred) spool up the window cracks by about three inches but not further or otherwise.
To troubleshoot the issue I have:
- confirmed that window motor works by wiring it up to a drill battery;
- confirmed that there is voltage reaching the window motor by checking the voltages on both ‘bits’ of the circuit (ie. the red/green and red/black wire on the wiring diagram). I get 12.54V solid at the battery, 12.3V at the window motor connection;
- confirmed that the voltage ceases on one or the other bit of the circuit when the window switch is pressed;
- confirmed the window switches work by swapping them over;
- wiggled the parts of the wiring loom either side of the door (to no avail); and
- bathed the connectors in electrical cleaner and scrubbed them until sparkling.
Any suggestions? Or should I give it up as a bad job?
I can confirm when the motor was connected to an external battery the window raised/lowered without issue. Of course - I only connected the battery direct to the motor - and have not tested any other part of the wiring In the same manner.
Are you thinking that the window may not be in it’s allocated channel?
Are you thinking that the window may not be in it’s allocated channel?
Not if it works ok with a seperate supply.
The mechanism isn't great and can bind though.
The circuit is known for voltage drops you probably know this from your research, I'm guessing that's what is going on.
Wont hurt to silicone spray the runners though and I've heard people have had good results with cleaning up the motors, not a nice job though.
The mechanism isn't great and can bind though.
The circuit is known for voltage drops you probably know this from your research, I'm guessing that's what is going on.
Wont hurt to silicone spray the runners though and I've heard people have had good results with cleaning up the motors, not a nice job though.
Edited by Belle427 on Thursday 31st August 06:41
By way of update - I’ve worked it out (finally).
It is to do with the window switch - in that the switch itself keeps sliding partially out of its connector - which is preventing the window from opening. If the switch is held down and then pressed it works like a charm.
I think a new switch may be in order.
It is to do with the window switch - in that the switch itself keeps sliding partially out of its connector - which is preventing the window from opening. If the switch is held down and then pressed it works like a charm.
I think a new switch may be in order.
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