MOT failed on front suspension bushes
Discussion
My AudiS3 has failed on:
Nearside Front Lower Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn
also advisory
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement
That would be acceptable on a car this old normally (2001) BUT, I replaced both of these rear lower arm bushes (donut shaped) and the front bush also on both NSF/OSF just over 15kmiles 16months ago, including ARB bushes, ARB control arm, strut bushes etc, the whole lot. I cannot believe they're really gone already?
I had a quick flick through the MOT regs "Here the general rule is that they do not fail unless there is excessive movement caused by the failure of the bonding or deterioration of the bush."
I will eat my own underpants if those bushes show any sign of deterioration after this amount of time?
The cynic in me see's this as easy business for a garage on an old car like this. I could be wrong of course, where and how do they show me and quantify excessive play? Anyone can yank a suspension arm with a decent bar and show movement? Your thoughts appreciated here even if you think im being a cynical fck
Nearside Front Lower Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn
also advisory
Offside Front Lower Suspension arm pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement
That would be acceptable on a car this old normally (2001) BUT, I replaced both of these rear lower arm bushes (donut shaped) and the front bush also on both NSF/OSF just over 15kmiles 16months ago, including ARB bushes, ARB control arm, strut bushes etc, the whole lot. I cannot believe they're really gone already?
I had a quick flick through the MOT regs "Here the general rule is that they do not fail unless there is excessive movement caused by the failure of the bonding or deterioration of the bush."
I will eat my own underpants if those bushes show any sign of deterioration after this amount of time?
The cynic in me see's this as easy business for a garage on an old car like this. I could be wrong of course, where and how do they show me and quantify excessive play? Anyone can yank a suspension arm with a decent bar and show movement? Your thoughts appreciated here even if you think im being a cynical fck
stevemcs said:
Ridex are rubbish, why not just swap the arms or fit powerflex ?
If you don't agree either ask the test centre to show you or ask for a form to contest it.
Ok thanks for your advice agree, i may well add some superpro's and cookbots whilst im at it. Ive spoken to a few others who say Ridex are rubbish but not even lasting 2 years is a shocker!! I will ask test center to show me however it's not clear anywhere what the tolerances are. Is it a tear or clear sign of deterioration? If you don't agree either ask the test centre to show you or ask for a form to contest it.
I had the same thing with my DS3. Had an advisory on a front suspension bush, so I replaced the wishbone with what I though was a decent quality product, SKF-branded supplied by Autodoc.
Next MoT, only a few thousand miles later, it failed. When we inspected the failed part the bonding had failed around more than half the total area, with a good 20% showing no evidence of ever having had any adhesive applied. SKF, or more probably its supplier, has a quality problem!
Somewhat worryingly, I replaced both wishbones as a precaution; three years later the other one is still OK.
I eventually got my money back from Autodoc. . .I'll never use them again!
Next MoT, only a few thousand miles later, it failed. When we inspected the failed part the bonding had failed around more than half the total area, with a good 20% showing no evidence of ever having had any adhesive applied. SKF, or more probably its supplier, has a quality problem!
Somewhat worryingly, I replaced both wishbones as a precaution; three years later the other one is still OK.
I eventually got my money back from Autodoc. . .I'll never use them again!
Autodoc have been great for me recently, you just need to know what to order, and not just buy on price.
I try to just use OE parts, if not available I'll use genuine parts instead. Sometimes it can be hard to work out what the OE equivalent is so I often use sites like FCPEuro to figure out what the OE manufacturer is and then purchase that from Autodoc, or use LLLParts as they have started showing OE alternatives. I'd only ever use OEM if I had no alternative and there are no after-maket upgraded parts available.
As a rule of thumb, for anything brake related, ATE, Textar and Jurid are pretty good. For suspension components it's usually Lemforder or TRW. Wheel bearings are always FAG.
I'd never buy anything from Ridex. I think I'd rather get second hand genuine parts from a scrapyard than new Ridex parts.
I try to just use OE parts, if not available I'll use genuine parts instead. Sometimes it can be hard to work out what the OE equivalent is so I often use sites like FCPEuro to figure out what the OE manufacturer is and then purchase that from Autodoc, or use LLLParts as they have started showing OE alternatives. I'd only ever use OEM if I had no alternative and there are no after-maket upgraded parts available.
As a rule of thumb, for anything brake related, ATE, Textar and Jurid are pretty good. For suspension components it's usually Lemforder or TRW. Wheel bearings are always FAG.
I'd never buy anything from Ridex. I think I'd rather get second hand genuine parts from a scrapyard than new Ridex parts.
I very much doubt that that product was genuine SKF, which are a top quality brand, but there are loads of fake SKF bearings on the internet so why not bushes too?
Advice (for the bearings at least) is always to buy from a known authorised distributor... Autodoc possibly 'might not' fit into that category.
Advice (for the bearings at least) is always to buy from a known authorised distributor... Autodoc possibly 'might not' fit into that category.
car user said:
Autodoc have been great for me recently, you just need to know what to order, and not just buy on price.
I try to just use OE parts, if not available I'll use genuine parts instead. Sometimes it can be hard to work out what the OE equivalent is so I often use sites like FCPEuro to figure out what the OE manufacturer is and then purchase that from Autodoc, or use LLLParts as they have started showing OE alternatives. I'd only ever use OEM if I had no alternative and there are no after-maket upgraded parts available.
As a rule of thumb, for anything brake related, ATE, Textar and Jurid are pretty good. For suspension components it's usually Lemforder or TRW. Wheel bearings are always FAG.
I'd never buy anything from Ridex. I think I'd rather get second hand genuine parts from a scrapyard than new Ridex parts.
So many different definitions on the net, but isn't:I try to just use OE parts, if not available I'll use genuine parts instead. Sometimes it can be hard to work out what the OE equivalent is so I often use sites like FCPEuro to figure out what the OE manufacturer is and then purchase that from Autodoc, or use LLLParts as they have started showing OE alternatives. I'd only ever use OEM if I had no alternative and there are no after-maket upgraded parts available.
As a rule of thumb, for anything brake related, ATE, Textar and Jurid are pretty good. For suspension components it's usually Lemforder or TRW. Wheel bearings are always FAG.
I'd never buy anything from Ridex. I think I'd rather get second hand genuine parts from a scrapyard than new Ridex parts.
OE = Original Equipment = Genuine?
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = People who make OE stuff, but release it under their own branding, not the car manufacturers?
Pattern Part / Aftermarket Part = Someone who has nothing to do with the car, copying a part on the side?
Was a job and a half to get my head around your definitions!
wyson said:
So many different definitions on the net, but isn't:
OE = Original Equipment = Genuine?
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = People who make OE stuff, but release it under their own branding, not the car manufacturers?
Pattern Part / Aftermarket Part = Someone who has nothing to do with the car, copying a part on the side?
Was a job and a half to get my head around your definitions!
I just go off of what definitions the suppliers use. OE = Original Equipment = Genuine?
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = People who make OE stuff, but release it under their own branding, not the car manufacturers?
Pattern Part / Aftermarket Part = Someone who has nothing to do with the car, copying a part on the side?
Was a job and a half to get my head around your definitions!
Genuine are the manufacturer branded parts
OE is still the genuine part, typically with the logo scraped off.
OEM is supposed to be a part created to the same specification as the OE part but from a different manufacturer. The problem is that this often includes manufacturers like Ridex.
wyson said:
So many different definitions on the net, but isn't:
OE = Original Equipment = Genuine?
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = People who make OE stuff, but release it under their own branding, not the car manufacturers?
Pattern Part / Aftermarket Part = Someone who has nothing to do with the car, copying a part on the side?
Was a job and a half to get my head around your definitions!
I think you are correct in your definitions, particularly OEM. This has always been Original Equipment Manufacturer, so pattern parts by other manufacturers cannot be 'OEM'.OE = Original Equipment = Genuine?
OEM = Original Equipment Manufacturer = People who make OE stuff, but release it under their own branding, not the car manufacturers?
Pattern Part / Aftermarket Part = Someone who has nothing to do with the car, copying a part on the side?
Was a job and a half to get my head around your definitions!
Gassing Station | Suspension, Brakes & Tyres | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff