Rust - Where do you draw the line?

Rust - Where do you draw the line?

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Discussion

seanlaurent

Original Poster:

22 posts

67 months

Sunday 25th June 2023
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I went to view my old Mx-5 yesterday.
I bought it years ago, pulled it out of some fellas garden, got it running and stupidly sold it - was really solid too, no rust in the sills (NA so chassis legs were fine).
I sold it to a yob who used it for drifting, didn't take care of it and I managed to poke my finger through the sill yesterday which broke my heart.

Still looking for an Mx-5, leaning towards NB1 or NB2 as that's what's more in my budget.
I viewed an NB2 a few years back and that was rotten at the chassis legs so I walked away.
Seems damn near impossible to find one that's not rotten with rust, bearing in mind I'm in Ireland - we really don't salt our roads so our cars are generally in better nick than the UK cars.

I've heard NB1s don't rust as badly up front, is that an old wives tale or the reality?

Where do you draw the line? - Is it ever actually surface rust? Or are they all just some degree of swiss cheese and we should accept it?

steveo3002

10,639 posts

180 months

Sunday 25th June 2023
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most of the rust on those is from inside out , surface rust would be a neglected stone chip

seanlaurent

Original Poster:

22 posts

67 months

Sunday 25th June 2023
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That's the thing I know if it's visible on the outside - it's rotten on the inside. But it seems damn near impossible nowadays to find one that isn't rusted to some degree - so where do you draw the line?

smn159

13,310 posts

223 months

Sunday 25th June 2023
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It's all repairable, just depends how much you want to put into it. Where to draw the line is therefore a personal decision.

I'd probably draw the line at one with really bad chassis legs, but it can be fixed.

steveo3002

10,639 posts

180 months

Sunday 25th June 2023
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how much do you like the car

how much are you willing to spend to make it right

does that amount of money buy something cleaner and in your eyes better

Belle427

9,571 posts

239 months

Sunday 25th June 2023
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Id buy one that has had the work done, a few do come up for sale now and again with all new metal.welded in but you will have to pay for it.
There was a very nice Turbo converted Mk1 on Facebook recently that had been done but it was up for £6k ono.

threespires

4,356 posts

217 months

Sunday 25th June 2023
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I've heard of a red 1991 BBR turbo that's about to go on sale. I'm told all the rear 1/4's have been replaced.

PushedDover

5,888 posts

59 months

Sunday 25th June 2023
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As someone has said about - it’s not about the metal you can see….. it’s what’s behind

Mines been ‘done’ a few time but last time round by a PH’er running The Auto Barn, and discovered all sorts of ’ill beneath.

So in a way you are maybe getting one shagged and having it sorted, properly

griffdude

1,834 posts

254 months

Tuesday 27th June 2023
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I had an early Mk1 that looked ok but was a massive rotter underneath, but my MK2.5 that lives in a garage is remarkably rot free at the front. Still had to do both rear 1/4s though…🤣

markcoopers

616 posts

199 months

Thursday 6th July 2023
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I realise you are just canvassing opinion rather than looking for a definitive answer, but i favour the buying one i can see and know is rusty and then doing the work myself to know it is done and done to what i consider is done well. I suspect all said and done it is the same price eventually as buying a minter from the specialist, but i also like the challenge aspect.
That said i draw the line when we are into repairing complicated structural parts like A posts/Screen surrounds and seat belt anchorage points also make me think again……arches and relatively simple sills where good fitting panels are available are where my line gets drawn.