Discussion
My clutch pedal a few days ago started to get sticky on returning from a fully depressed. The first few cms of return would stick slightly but the pedal would then fully return with no problems. Putting it away tonight the clutch pedal went down, didnt return normally and then lost all resistance. The pedal is moving the master cylinder piston in and out with no resistance at all. Grateful for your thoughts
I recently replaced clutch and brake hydraulics - a PITA job, had to take the pedal box out to get the brake stuff sorted, but the clutch bits are a lot easier.
Replacement clutch master cylinders vary from around £40 to £100 - I bought one from ebay that's a TRW (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144688142794), and has the thread for the outlet hose cut to be the same as the OEM - so no need to change the hoses.
It's a two person job simply because you need someone in the footwell and someone under the bonnet.
If you haven't done this type of job before, you might need to pick up a small (tiny) socket set to get to the bottom bolt under the clutch cover, but also get a syringe to remove the eggcup quantity of clutch fluid from the clutch m/c.
Conventional wisdom says replace the clutch slave under the car attached to the gearbox - also inexpensive (around £40) and easy to do.
Then just follow the old school method of bleeding new clutch/brake fluid through (bring that second person back to do the pedal).
Oddly, it's one of the technically easier jobs to do.
Apologies if you know all of this!
Replacement clutch master cylinders vary from around £40 to £100 - I bought one from ebay that's a TRW (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144688142794), and has the thread for the outlet hose cut to be the same as the OEM - so no need to change the hoses.
It's a two person job simply because you need someone in the footwell and someone under the bonnet.
If you haven't done this type of job before, you might need to pick up a small (tiny) socket set to get to the bottom bolt under the clutch cover, but also get a syringe to remove the eggcup quantity of clutch fluid from the clutch m/c.
Conventional wisdom says replace the clutch slave under the car attached to the gearbox - also inexpensive (around £40) and easy to do.
Then just follow the old school method of bleeding new clutch/brake fluid through (bring that second person back to do the pedal).
Oddly, it's one of the technically easier jobs to do.
Apologies if you know all of this!
PabloGee said:
I recently replaced clutch and brake hydraulics - a PITA job, had to take the pedal box out to get the brake stuff sorted, but the clutch bits are a lot easier.
Replacement clutch master cylinders vary from around £40 to £100 - I bought one from ebay that's a TRW (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144688142794), and has the thread for the outlet hose cut to be the same as the OEM - so no need to change the hoses.
It's a two person job simply because you need someone in the footwell and someone under the bonnet.
If you haven't done this type of job before, you might need to pick up a small (tiny) socket set to get to the bottom bolt under the clutch cover, but also get a syringe to remove the eggcup quantity of clutch fluid from the clutch m/c.
Conventional wisdom says replace the clutch slave under the car attached to the gearbox - also inexpensive (around £40) and easy to do.
Then just follow the old school method of bleeding new clutch/brake fluid through (bring that second person back to do the pedal).
Oddly, it's one of the technically easier jobs to do.
Apologies if you know all of this!
Thanks for this, waiting for a 7/16 flare spanner to get the union off the master cylinder. It's not the slave as I undid the bleed nipple and the fork moved back. Have seen the eBay master cylinder and that's the one I'll get. Luckily I have a very skinny 14yr old boy who will be sent into the footwell !! Replacement clutch master cylinders vary from around £40 to £100 - I bought one from ebay that's a TRW (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144688142794), and has the thread for the outlet hose cut to be the same as the OEM - so no need to change the hoses.
It's a two person job simply because you need someone in the footwell and someone under the bonnet.
If you haven't done this type of job before, you might need to pick up a small (tiny) socket set to get to the bottom bolt under the clutch cover, but also get a syringe to remove the eggcup quantity of clutch fluid from the clutch m/c.
Conventional wisdom says replace the clutch slave under the car attached to the gearbox - also inexpensive (around £40) and easy to do.
Then just follow the old school method of bleeding new clutch/brake fluid through (bring that second person back to do the pedal).
Oddly, it's one of the technically easier jobs to do.
Apologies if you know all of this!
Forgot to mention, I also picked up one of these m/c extenders, to provided a more generous quantity of fluid to the system, as this type of m/c is designed to be mounted horizontally, but isn't, so reduces the amount of fluid it will hold.
Peace of mind, but I have created myself another problem for the cover - I have a friend who is making up a new fibreglass cover for me to fit properly and allow the extension to poke through so I can see the level without having to undo the cover (I went through the whole leak-into-the-footwell scenario in the winter). I will share more on this when it's done as my mate has suggested he could make more to sell since he'll have the mould.
Peace of mind, but I have created myself another problem for the cover - I have a friend who is making up a new fibreglass cover for me to fit properly and allow the extension to poke through so I can see the level without having to undo the cover (I went through the whole leak-into-the-footwell scenario in the winter). I will share more on this when it's done as my mate has suggested he could make more to sell since he'll have the mould.
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