Suspension woes - enlighten me
Discussion
One of our cars is a 2014 Skoda Superb Estate that has done 255k miles. Now as you might expect it's starting to age quite a bit...
One of the problems with it is wheel tracking - it doesn't like staying in alignment so at speed you get that annoying vibration through the steering wheel and don't feel entirely safe.
The suspension is also quite crashy/like driving a sofa.
If I was to get this sorted out in some way - what would I be actually looking at having done? New bushings, control arms? Something else?
Is it even worth doing on a car with such a high mileage? Everything else about the car continues to plough on without issue.
One of the problems with it is wheel tracking - it doesn't like staying in alignment so at speed you get that annoying vibration through the steering wheel and don't feel entirely safe.
The suspension is also quite crashy/like driving a sofa.
If I was to get this sorted out in some way - what would I be actually looking at having done? New bushings, control arms? Something else?
Is it even worth doing on a car with such a high mileage? Everything else about the car continues to plough on without issue.
You need to get a garage to look at the suspension and see what's wrong with it. From the symptoms you describe I'd guess some of the main control arm bushes are disintegrating but it needs someone to get in there with a pry-bar to see what moves in a direction it shouldn't. Could be something like track rod ends, ball joints, or even the dampers. Perception of issues with suspension is a funny thing - you can often be certain one thing is happening and it turns out to be something completely different.
If the Superb is like the Octavia, the main control arms and their in-board bushes are a single replaceable unit, so if you change one you change the other. Obviously the out-board end is ball-joints which are replaced separately.
ETA: Of course at that mileage it's quite likely you have a small amount of play in multiple different areas of the suspension, all adding up to create the problems you're experiencing.
If the Superb is like the Octavia, the main control arms and their in-board bushes are a single replaceable unit, so if you change one you change the other. Obviously the out-board end is ball-joints which are replaced separately.
ETA: Of course at that mileage it's quite likely you have a small amount of play in multiple different areas of the suspension, all adding up to create the problems you're experiencing.
Edited by kambites on Thursday 22 September 14:22
If its all original, pretty much every component will be past its best. Wheels not staying aligned is likely to be wear in the bushes and/or track rods and possibly ball joints.
The crashy/sofa like ride suggests worn dampers.
A complete suspension refresh will probably be a four figure price including labour.
The crashy/sofa like ride suggests worn dampers.
A complete suspension refresh will probably be a four figure price including labour.
RECr said:
A complete suspension refresh will probably be a four figure price including labour.
I suspect it would be easily four figures in parts alone if using OEM parts, and probably not far off using pattern parts. Might still be worth doing though if the car is otherwise known to be a good condition. If you like the car and trust it otherwise then definitely get it redone. As for why you’re feeling what you’ve described, it could just be general wear, or something more specific like track rod ends (either end) having had their day.
Is it something you’d do yourself or would it be farmed out?
I would go for some reasonable quality parts rather than bargain basement ones.
A kit from a decent name comprising all the required parts will be better value in the long run either way as it’s more likely to last another 100k instead of failing due to poor QC in 18 months time, costing you more in labour than you’d have spent on better kit to begin with.
If you can manage it, get it up on a jack or lift and have a wiggle of the unsprung mass and go from there.
If you replace any parts and are satisfied you’ve got rid of any worn ones, get a proper wheel alignment done, drive it, check the tyre wear and don’t be afraid to take it back to the alignment place if you’re not happy with the outcome.
Is it something you’d do yourself or would it be farmed out?
I would go for some reasonable quality parts rather than bargain basement ones.
A kit from a decent name comprising all the required parts will be better value in the long run either way as it’s more likely to last another 100k instead of failing due to poor QC in 18 months time, costing you more in labour than you’d have spent on better kit to begin with.
If you can manage it, get it up on a jack or lift and have a wiggle of the unsprung mass and go from there.
If you replace any parts and are satisfied you’ve got rid of any worn ones, get a proper wheel alignment done, drive it, check the tyre wear and don’t be afraid to take it back to the alignment place if you’re not happy with the outcome.
Demelitia said:
If you like the car and trust it otherwise then definitely get it redone. As for why you’re feeling what you’ve described, it could just be general wear, or something more specific like track rod ends (either end) having had their day.
Is it something you’d do yourself or would it be farmed out?
I would go for some reasonable quality parts rather than bargain basement ones.
A kit from a decent name comprising all the required parts will be better value in the long run either way as it’s more likely to last another 100k instead of failing due to poor QC in 18 months time, costing you more in labour than you’d have spent on better kit to begin with.
If you can manage it, get it up on a jack or lift and have a wiggle of the unsprung mass and go from there.
If you replace any parts and are satisfied you’ve got rid of any worn ones, get a proper wheel alignment done, drive it, check the tyre wear and don’t be afraid to take it back to the alignment place if you’re not happy with the outcome.
I would have to get someone else to do it. Is that something you would just get your local garage to do, or would you have to approach more of a specialist? Is it something you’d do yourself or would it be farmed out?
I would go for some reasonable quality parts rather than bargain basement ones.
A kit from a decent name comprising all the required parts will be better value in the long run either way as it’s more likely to last another 100k instead of failing due to poor QC in 18 months time, costing you more in labour than you’d have spent on better kit to begin with.
If you can manage it, get it up on a jack or lift and have a wiggle of the unsprung mass and go from there.
If you replace any parts and are satisfied you’ve got rid of any worn ones, get a proper wheel alignment done, drive it, check the tyre wear and don’t be afraid to take it back to the alignment place if you’re not happy with the outcome.
When someone says four figures are we talking £1k, or more like £2+?
Price is very hard to judge without knowing exactly what needs doing. I'd say it'll probably end up being somewhere between £1000 and £2000 at a decent independent dealer if using decent quality non-OEM parts. Perhaps a bit more if you're in the London area.
If you're steering rack needs replacing (possible but unlikely) it might be a bit more.
If you're steering rack needs replacing (possible but unlikely) it might be a bit more.
Edited by kambites on Thursday 22 September 14:45
kambites said:
There should be some independent VAG specialists around, give them a ring and talk to them. 
This. Book it in for some garage time with an independent VAG specialist, half an hour on a ramp with a competent mechanic will tell you all you need to know, then get them to give you a itemised quote for rectifying things. Theyll also be able to advise on what needs doing first, what effect each worn part is having, and how to tackle it efficiently.
I’m not sure where people are in the country to be getting quotes of 1k+ (entirely possible, It’s just not something I’ve experienced) but if you can do a little bit of research in to compatibility for your car, brands like Febi will do reasonably priced kits for most cars. Finding the part number for the kit will let you find them on eBay or similar and save yourself a decent bit of money.
Using a discount code I managed to get a full arm and fastener kit for just over £200 about 18 months ago.
I would prefer to do a kit in your situation otherwise you’re just forcing the load on to the next weakest link in the suspension, causing it to fail fairly quickly.
Using a discount code I managed to get a full arm and fastener kit for just over £200 about 18 months ago.
I would prefer to do a kit in your situation otherwise you’re just forcing the load on to the next weakest link in the suspension, causing it to fail fairly quickly.
Demelitia said:
I’m not sure where people are in the country to be getting quotes of 1k+ (entirely possible, It’s just not something I’ve experienced) but if you can do a little bit of research in to compatibility for your car, brands like Febi will do reasonably priced kits for most cars.
I think you underestimate the labour change - to replace all of the control arms, bushes, ball joints, drop-links, dampers, etc on all four corners of a car that old is going to be a lot of work!PeteinSQ said:
One of our cars is a 2014 Skoda Superb Estate that has done 255k miles. Now as you might expect it's starting to age quite a bit...
One of the problems with it is wheel tracking - it doesn't like staying in alignment so at speed you get that annoying vibration through the steering wheel and don't feel entirely safe.
The suspension is also quite crashy/like driving a sofa.
If I was to get this sorted out in some way - what would I be actually looking at having done? New bushings, control arms? Something else?
Is it even worth doing on a car with such a high mileage? Everything else about the car continues to plough on without issue.
misalignment does not cause vibrationsOne of the problems with it is wheel tracking - it doesn't like staying in alignment so at speed you get that annoying vibration through the steering wheel and don't feel entirely safe.
The suspension is also quite crashy/like driving a sofa.
If I was to get this sorted out in some way - what would I be actually looking at having done? New bushings, control arms? Something else?
Is it even worth doing on a car with such a high mileage? Everything else about the car continues to plough on without issue.
If you think the suspension is done, just buy new quality replacement parts.
Demelitia said:
I’m not sure where people are in the country to be getting quotes of 1k+ (entirely possible, It’s just not something I’ve experienced)
Fitting new parts to a new car might be quick and easy. Taking old parts off an old car and then fixing the other stuff that broke when you so much as looked at it, and sourced all the fasteners and clips that are no longer usable, can take an order of magnitude longer.GreenV8S said:
Demelitia said:
I’m not sure where people are in the country to be getting quotes of 1k+ (entirely possible, It’s just not something I’ve experienced)
Fitting new parts to a new car might be quick and easy. Taking old parts off an old car and then fixing the other stuff that broke when you so much as looked at it, and sourced all the fasteners and clips that are no longer usable, can take an order of magnitude longer.kambites said:
Demelitia said:
I’m not sure where people are in the country to be getting quotes of 1k+ (entirely possible, It’s just not something I’ve experienced) but if you can do a little bit of research in to compatibility for your car, brands like Febi will do reasonably priced kits for most cars.
I think you underestimate the labour change - to replace all of the control arms, bushes, ball joints, drop-links, dampers, etc on all four corners of a car that old is going to be a lot of work!I’ve replaced the entire suspension on my own cars, the youngest of which is now 16 years old. I’m well aware of the arseache involved.
That being said, when you’re going with a complete redo, it does get a little easier in some ways. Not having to tiptoe around bushings and ball joint boots that need to be saved when the gas axe has to come out is a blessing.
I guess I was mostly speaking to the large gulf in labour charges between different parts of the country, and how having a full replacement kit and some other choice parts ready can actually save money on them.
Demelitia said:
I guess I was mostly speaking to the large gulf in labour charges between different parts of the country, and how having a full replacement kit and some other choice parts ready can actually save money on them.
I guess the other question regarding the total cost is whether you can find a garage which will fit customer supplied parts. From what I've seen it's becoming increasingly common for garages to refuse to do that. kambites said:
Demelitia said:
I guess I was mostly speaking to the large gulf in labour charges between different parts of the country, and how having a full replacement kit and some other choice parts ready can actually save money on them.
I guess the other question regarding the total cost is whether you can find a garage which will fit customer supplied parts. From what I've seen it's becoming increasingly common for garages to refuse to do that. I think I’m a little spoiled in that I have reasonably priced garages I could use who would be willing to meet me halfway with things if I needed them.
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