shock spring insulators (up or down)?
Discussion
I am just wondering before i go out in the 28 degree heat to fit these.
Which way around do they go. holes facing up or down?
Getting a loud twanging noise when steering. I used heater hose for the ends and can only see this causing the problem as everything is brand new and both shocks are doing it.
car is an astra h z17dtl 2005
Granted the diagram shows holes up but I have had it previously with a handbrake cable where the diagram was incorrect.
I only want to do this once.
Which way round do they go please?
Which way around do they go. holes facing up or down?
Getting a loud twanging noise when steering. I used heater hose for the ends and can only see this causing the problem as everything is brand new and both shocks are doing it.
car is an astra h z17dtl 2005
Granted the diagram shows holes up but I have had it previously with a handbrake cable where the diagram was incorrect.
I only want to do this once.
Which way round do they go please?
Looks like the holes face up.
https://rrr.lt/en/used-part/frc10964-22214603-opel...
There's a few items on ebay where they are selling the whole strut and they all seem to be fitted that way.
https://rrr.lt/en/used-part/frc10964-22214603-opel...
There's a few items on ebay where they are selling the whole strut and they all seem to be fitted that way.
gamefreaks said:
Looks like the holes face up.
https://rrr.lt/en/used-part/frc10964-22214603-opel...
There's a few items on ebay where they are selling the whole strut and they all seem to be fitted that way.
Cheers.https://rrr.lt/en/used-part/frc10964-22214603-opel...
There's a few items on ebay where they are selling the whole strut and they all seem to be fitted that way.
i went holes up as pictured in the end.
The side I did was quiet for about 45 minutes. wondering if only doing one side tension is building up on the other and transferring it to the on that's been sorted. highly doubt it though. I think its time to send it all back and replace it as I'm out of ideas.
minos316 said:
Cheers.
i went holes up as pictured in the end.
The side I did was quiet for about 45 minutes. wondering if only doing one side tension is building up on the other and transferring it to the on that's been sorted. highly doubt it though. I think its time to send it all back and replace it as I'm out of ideas.
I must admit, didn't think this would solve your problem. Many springs are fitted without these, my Astra doesn't have any and doesn't twang.i went holes up as pictured in the end.
The side I did was quiet for about 45 minutes. wondering if only doing one side tension is building up on the other and transferring it to the on that's been sorted. highly doubt it though. I think its time to send it all back and replace it as I'm out of ideas.
Are the drop links in good order? These are common failure points.
Entire thing is new, both sides.
Even the rubbers and bump stops.
Drop links were new a couple of weeks ago.
inner and outer tierods at the same time.
lower swing arms about 6 months ago (I've already checked these and they are fine).
There isn't much to these struts. I'm at a loss really on what the problem is.
Even the rubbers and bump stops.
Drop links were new a couple of weeks ago.
inner and outer tierods at the same time.
lower swing arms about 6 months ago (I've already checked these and they are fine).
There isn't much to these struts. I'm at a loss really on what the problem is.
Edited by minos316 on Sunday 14th August 01:10
minos316 said:
Entire thing is new, both sides.
You say everything is new, but didn't directly say yes to the top mounts.The hose used as spring isolators won't be the issue.
The issue is stiction in the top mounts.
The way to confirm it is to get under the car when there is weight on the wheels, so on ramps or similar.
Reach up as high as you safely can to the top of the spring/strut, and as the steering is turned, the spring will "jump" round as the stiction is overcome by the torque on the spring.
E-bmw said:
You say everything is new, but didn't directly say yes to the top mounts.
The hose used as spring isolators won't be the issue.
The issue is stiction in the top mounts.
The way to confirm it is to get under the car when there is weight on the wheels, so on ramps or similar.
Reach up as high as you safely can to the top of the spring/strut, and as the steering is turned, the spring will "jump" round as the stiction is overcome by the torque on the spring.
Entire thing including the mounts.The hose used as spring isolators won't be the issue.
The issue is stiction in the top mounts.
The way to confirm it is to get under the car when there is weight on the wheels, so on ramps or similar.
Reach up as high as you safely can to the top of the spring/strut, and as the steering is turned, the spring will "jump" round as the stiction is overcome by the torque on the spring.
The top is a floating design and doesn't bolt to anything.
I don't know why its sticking.
Steering wheel is really stiff as well.
Should I give up and get replacements and start again?
Shouldn't be this much hassle.
I'm going to change the other one in a minute as I can't see it being anything else. It's a known issue with vectras (similar deign) where it twangs if these aren't fitted.
But I do agree and don't think its going to fix the issue.
Edited by minos316 on Sunday 14th August 09:54
minos316 said:
Entire thing including the mounts.
The top is a floating design and doesn't bolt to anything.
I don't know why its sticking.
Steering wheel is really stiff as well.
Should I give up and get replacements and start again?
Shouldn't be this much hassle.
I'm going to change the other one in a minute as I can't see it being anything else. It's a known issue with vectras (similar deign) where it twangs if these aren't fitted.
But I do agree and don't think its going to fix the issue.
Now you've told us the steering is really stiff too.The top is a floating design and doesn't bolt to anything.
I don't know why its sticking.
Steering wheel is really stiff as well.
Should I give up and get replacements and start again?
Shouldn't be this much hassle.
I'm going to change the other one in a minute as I can't see it being anything else. It's a known issue with vectras (similar deign) where it twangs if these aren't fitted.
But I do agree and don't think its going to fix the issue.
Edited by minos316 on Sunday 14th August 09:54
Did you check the top mounts spun nice and freely before fitting on the car? It might be you have a bad (new) one that isn't and that's causing both the twanging and stiff steering?
minos316 said:
Which way around do they go. holes facing up or down?
Are you asking which end of the spring it goes on, or what the orientation is? It has to be oriented with the holes facing away from the spring, obviously. Otherwise the spring will be resting on the split side which will mean it provides no isolation at all. The holes are just to ensure water can't be trapped inside since the shape forms a cup which the spring sits in and this will promote rusting if the spring sits in water. I can't believe this is causing stiff and noisy steering and that must surely be caused by the top spring seat not rotating because it is faulty/wrongly fitted.
I fitted the second one today and the top mount doesn't spin freely with the spring decompressed, it however does on the other side but it also making a racket, it's stiff but it does spin.
I originally replaced the ns top mount because it was seized but then decided to do the entire front suspension as it was hammered.
The holes are facing up on both sides so yes the split would be on the bottom. So these are upside down then it would seem.
It's literally an anti friction ring that rests against the metal top mount which then floats at the top with 2 clips. There's no specific orientation it needs to be in like a lot of others. I find it difficult to believe anyone could cock this up when putting it back together.
Other than the steering the actual suspension part is nice.
Do you think its worth just sending both top mounts back keep the rest of it and replace them.
By the way the very first top mount I bought also clunked. Surely I haven't had 3 faulty top mounts.
I originally replaced the ns top mount because it was seized but then decided to do the entire front suspension as it was hammered.
The holes are facing up on both sides so yes the split would be on the bottom. So these are upside down then it would seem.
It's literally an anti friction ring that rests against the metal top mount which then floats at the top with 2 clips. There's no specific orientation it needs to be in like a lot of others. I find it difficult to believe anyone could cock this up when putting it back together.
Other than the steering the actual suspension part is nice.
Do you think its worth just sending both top mounts back keep the rest of it and replace them.
By the way the very first top mount I bought also clunked. Surely I haven't had 3 faulty top mounts.
minos316 said:
I find it difficult to believe anyone could cock this up when putting it back together.
Me too, ...minos316 said:
So these are upside down then it would seem.
... but there you go.Are you sure that top bearing is just a slip ring and not a ball race? It's clearly not working as intended in any case.
|https://thumbsnap.com/rtN1BL5W[/url]minos316 said:
The holes are facing up on both sides so yes the split would be on the bottom. So these are upside down then it would seem.
Obviously what was said above wasn't clear.If they are at the top of the spring the holes need to go up or the spring will sit with the full length slot where the spring contacts the spring cup & isolate nothing & vice versa if they are at the bottom.
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