Slight creak /knock when reversing with right hand down
Discussion
Hi , i have a 2018 Suzuki swift booster jet with 41k on the clock, and this last week i have noticed when reversing only with right hand down a slight creak /knocking sound..It does not do it all of the time . when i do a full circle in reverse you cannot hear anything..It's very intermittent and i noticed when stationary if i rock the steering wheel left to right just a few turns it can sometimes her it but typically when i find someone to turn the wheel so i can get near the wheel it stops ..My first thought was CV joint so i thought get a price for one and maybe change but when i called Suzuki they quoted me £480 for a complete driveshaft as they don't sell just a CV joint pretty expensive nearly £500 for a driveshaft .My next step is to replace the Droplinks as that i can do easily enough and the nearside one as got a split boot with grease leaking so i will try that ..I would appreciate it if anyone can help with trying to eliminate anything what could be the issue ,i presume that by doing a full circle reversing a few times and not hearing any noises that could eliminate the CV joint , i have also thought about the top strut mounts but being on my own its difficult trying to test possible issues ..Also if anyone knows if i can actually replace just the CV joint as i think i can get one from a company on ebay called SIDEM and thats about the only place i can source one ...Sorry for the long post just thought i would get as much info in as possible .Thanks
Hi, i must admit i thought it a bit unusual for a CV joint to go on a relatively low mileage car ,i just look at the worst case then price parts etc.
When i found out that the dealers want £480 for the driveshaft i was shocked..Going to try Droplinks first then new pads and discs as i noticed they were getting low .I was also going to check the top strut mounts but finding aftermarket ones are non existent and i dread to the call to the dealer for a price..
When i found out that the dealers want £480 for the driveshaft i was shocked..Going to try Droplinks first then new pads and discs as i noticed they were getting low .I was also going to check the top strut mounts but finding aftermarket ones are non existent and i dread to the call to the dealer for a price..
Unfortunately, your car is just about too new for many aftermarket manufacturers to have replacement bits on the market yet, so that will be against you. It does not sound like a CV joint & I wouldn't expect one to go at that mileage anyway, as above, they last much better than they did 20+ years ago.
Also unfortunately it is very difficult to diagnose indistinct/intermittent suspension noises from afar too.
Having said that, ARB links are unlikely for what you describe, but if there is a known issue with one, change both anyway.
Possibilities are:
Top mounts as you suggest.
Caliper/pads moving slightly due to worn sliders/badly fitting pads.
Worn suspension bush/joint.
Which unfortunately means pretty much anything on the suspension.
Also unfortunately it is very difficult to diagnose indistinct/intermittent suspension noises from afar too.
Having said that, ARB links are unlikely for what you describe, but if there is a known issue with one, change both anyway.
Possibilities are:
Top mounts as you suggest.
Caliper/pads moving slightly due to worn sliders/badly fitting pads.
Worn suspension bush/joint.
Which unfortunately means pretty much anything on the suspension.
Many thanks for the replies,i am going to start with what i can do myself , ie the drop links are £50 at the dealer but i have managed to source some for £30 a pair (for the record if any one else reads this in the future they are 350mm) and i can do that myself ,also just got mintex discs and pads for £65 i have used mintex on both my Audi A3 and series 1 BMW and found them to produce less dust ..The Suzuki ones leave both my internal and external wheel full of dust ..I have checked the best i can the ball joints and track rods and no obvious issues but as you say suspension knocks and creaks never appear were they seem to becoming from,bit difficult hanging out the window tyrning the steering wheel and trying to locate with my ageing ears ..
I don't see any practical reason why the problem would stop when somebody else is driving. It will be much easier to diagnose the problem when you can tell where it's coming from, and if it happens at slow speed then it ought to be possible to figure that out. If all else fails, get a contact mic and just stick to various suspects until you pick up sudden noises.
Hi, the issue is quite intermittent , i can travel to work reverse in to the car park spot and it can make the noise ,i can then try again and it won't do it ,i then reverse around in order to try and hear it and it stops,,However from stationary i can move steering wheel left to right and it can make the noise ,that's when i say i could do with someone to turn the wheel so i can get nearer to try and find were it's coming from .and yes it stops ..Now i know some people will say just turn the radio up so you can't hear it etc but i am the sort of person that want's to sort it early and fix it,
den9112 said:
Its a month before ...That's the earliest you can take it in ..
Just checked... "you can book an MOT test at any time you want. However, if the test takes place more than a month before the expiry date of your current certificate, it will be valid for 12 months from the new test dateFor example: If your current certificate expires on 20 March and you had the test on 19 February, your new certificate would be valid until 19 February the following year."
Pitre said:
den9112 said:
Its a month before ...That's the earliest you can take it in ..
Just checked... "you can book an MOT test at any time you want. However, if the test takes place more than a month before the expiry date of your current certificate, it will be valid for 12 months from the new test dateFor example: If your current certificate expires on 20 March and you had the test on 19 February, your new certificate would be valid until 19 February the following year."
If there's nothing worn or needing attention then i find a blast with some rustproofing chemical tends to shut all sorts of creaks up.
I use ACF50 because it creeps really well and doesn't actually dry.
You've serviced the brakes haven't you, proper servicing not the dealer tech's idea of squirting brake cleaner in the general direction the calipers.
I use ACF50 because it creeps really well and doesn't actually dry.
You've serviced the brakes haven't you, proper servicing not the dealer tech's idea of squirting brake cleaner in the general direction the calipers.
The car had new discs and pads on the 4th Feb 2021 fitted by a Suzuki dealer ,car came with a full service when i bought it as well...Also since the car as a turbo i have changed oil filters etc every 6k ,just a habit from having diesels for years ..I did notice when i had the car jacked up and i removed the wheels that the pads looked quite worn ,and i am not heavy on the brakes..As said i have parts for replacing discs and pads and all the correct grease for both pins and caliper ..
Hi quick update on issue i was having,i have changed both droplinks and the issue was still there so i changed shock and while doing so i noticed that the friction bearing was split and the and was loose,also in general the shock was not looking to healthy so i replaced the lot, and while the whole front end was off the ground i replaced discs and pads ,pads were very low and definitely needed doing ..Noise (touch wood) as now disappeared and i am going with shock bearing and strut mount both worn ..
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