Buying MX5 NC and best forum?
Discussion
Hi Guys,
Stupid time of the year to buy a drop-top, but needs must. Looking for a 3 or 3.5 and probably modify the chassis.
Sure all my questions have been answered a million times on a forum somewhere.
What are the best owners forums?
I want to read up on suspension change options on a budget e.g. lowering springs brands, ARBs brands + where to get the geo done (assume BBR).
The more expensive options seem a bit more obvious Gaz or Meister R coils, or BBR options.
And finally, I've read a few buying guides, but no one mentions when the timing chain/tensioner needs replacing, but I understand this along with low oil are the few things that will f*ck these engines that are otherwise pretty solid.
Is there a set mileage / age they should be replaced or is just when you start hearing noises. The latter fills me with dread.
And finally, how do you look under it on an inspection to see if it's rotten or not.
Almost want to get the AA to check it to make sure, I'm much less confident with bodywork issues. Difficult to work out what is normal surface rust under a car and what a MOT failure waiting to happen.
Cheers,
Stupid time of the year to buy a drop-top, but needs must. Looking for a 3 or 3.5 and probably modify the chassis.
Sure all my questions have been answered a million times on a forum somewhere.
What are the best owners forums?
I want to read up on suspension change options on a budget e.g. lowering springs brands, ARBs brands + where to get the geo done (assume BBR).
The more expensive options seem a bit more obvious Gaz or Meister R coils, or BBR options.
And finally, I've read a few buying guides, but no one mentions when the timing chain/tensioner needs replacing, but I understand this along with low oil are the few things that will f*ck these engines that are otherwise pretty solid.
Is there a set mileage / age they should be replaced or is just when you start hearing noises. The latter fills me with dread.
And finally, how do you look under it on an inspection to see if it's rotten or not.
Almost want to get the AA to check it to make sure, I'm much less confident with bodywork issues. Difficult to work out what is normal surface rust under a car and what a MOT failure waiting to happen.
Cheers,
Hi
MX5 NC Europe on face ache is a great community with loads of good knowledge.
I race the NC so can possibly help.
Best model, get a 3.5 2.0 Sport if you can the 3.5 has a stronger engine and gearbox.
Engine chain is for life and doesn’t break what kills the NC is stuck piston rings from the engine being grannied from new, which causes excessive oil consumption that runs the oil low then it will spin a bearing knackering the crank.
Mid mileage younger cars are usually ok.
Suspension wise, lots of coilover choice, buy the most expensive I think onlins are doing a kit now.
ARB’s don’t really need changing but depends on use and spring rates. Brakes are all good just fit decent discs and pads and do the fluid,
Gearbox and diff are sensitive to fluid so I would change those,
Thermostats can stick open, cheap to change.
Rust wise the front of the rear arches is where they rust badly, also the boot lid around the number plates rust, suspension and rear subframes are usually rusty but not an issue, if there is rust anywhere else walk away.
MX5 NC Europe on face ache is a great community with loads of good knowledge.
I race the NC so can possibly help.
Best model, get a 3.5 2.0 Sport if you can the 3.5 has a stronger engine and gearbox.
Engine chain is for life and doesn’t break what kills the NC is stuck piston rings from the engine being grannied from new, which causes excessive oil consumption that runs the oil low then it will spin a bearing knackering the crank.
Mid mileage younger cars are usually ok.
Suspension wise, lots of coilover choice, buy the most expensive I think onlins are doing a kit now.
ARB’s don’t really need changing but depends on use and spring rates. Brakes are all good just fit decent discs and pads and do the fluid,
Gearbox and diff are sensitive to fluid so I would change those,
Thermostats can stick open, cheap to change.
Rust wise the front of the rear arches is where they rust badly, also the boot lid around the number plates rust, suspension and rear subframes are usually rusty but not an issue, if there is rust anywhere else walk away.
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