Changingtoilet & basin, how to drain water
Discussion
As i cannot get a plumber for weeks, i think i will try to remove my cloakroom toilet & basin myself.
I presume that i need to turn off supply & run taps & flush toilet to empty residual water in the pipes?
I do not appear to have any on/off taps near to the area though. I do have a huge hot water tank with a big red tap thing on top, could i just turn this off?
Any advice welcome, i really don't want to flood the area!!
I presume that i need to turn off supply & run taps & flush toilet to empty residual water in the pipes?
I do not appear to have any on/off taps near to the area though. I do have a huge hot water tank with a big red tap thing on top, could i just turn this off?
Any advice welcome, i really don't want to flood the area!!
If you're planning to replace them a good tip is to get some isolator valves, and fit them into the up-pipes...they come in std 15mm size with compression fittings, so if you're careful they're easy to fit.
Plus, if you're not replacing the units straight away, you'll have open pipes and won't be able to turn the water on again...so might want to fit these straight away...will make life a lot easier come time to refit units...as you won't have to turn the mains water off or drain the system again.
Plus, if you're not replacing the units straight away, you'll have open pipes and won't be able to turn the water on again...so might want to fit these straight away...will make life a lot easier come time to refit units...as you won't have to turn the mains water off or drain the system again.
havoc said:
If you're planning to replace them a good tip is to get some isolator valves, and fit them into the up-pipes...they come in std 15mm size with compression fittings, so if you're careful they're easy to fit.
Plus, if you're not replacing the units straight away, you'll have open pipes and won't be able to turn the water on again...so might want to fit these straight away...will make life a lot easier come time to refit units...as you won't have to turn the mains water off or drain the system again.
I assume the "up" pipes are the ones that come from the floor to feed the taps & cistern? Should i put a valve on each pipe? I.e. one for the toilet feed & one each for the hot & cold feeds to the taps?
Yes, that's right. They're directional, but actually work in both directions. They also restrict the flow slightly, so if you have very low hot- or cold-water pressure in the cloakroom, you may want to consider getting a 22mm valve and a couple of adaptors...but you should be OK...not like it's for a shower.
Few things:-
1) fit them fairly low down, to give room for any adjustments needed above. Subject to other caveats;
2) fit them on a straight bit of pipe...you'll never get a seal on a bend, even a slight one (OK, obvious, but didn't want to assume);
3) don't fit them as low as they can go...if it goes wrong first time, you've got fun and games with floorboards;
4) get some new 15mm pipe from a plumbers merchant or B&Q...it's easier to get a seal on a new piece of pipe at the top than re-using some old and tatty pipe...and it's dirt cheap compared to everything else you're buying;
5) cut the pipe with a proper pipe-cutter...hacksaw isn't as clean and the extra pressure in one direction risks denting pipe slightly...and remember you need a seal;
6) Remember these valves are wider than std 15mm pipe, so if you're going to have a pedestal underneath the sink, mount them ideally below the waste outlet, otherwise you may find everything in one place and you can't put the pedestal in place;
7) Use PTFE wherever necessary, but don't go using silicone sealant unless you really have to...it's a bugger to clean off pipes when you need to take them apart!!!
They're a doddle to use - you turn on-and-off with a flat blade screwdriver, turning the valve-guide 90-degrees...so if you keep them in the "off" position you can leave the cloakroom with nothing fitted for days if you need to.
PS - no I'm not a plumber, I've just finished this myself and am writing out of BITTER experience!!!
PPS - flexi-hoses for the last stretch up to the basin are VERY handy, and a lot easier to disguise behind a pedestal...but get metal braiding...the nylon ones give a "rushing" sound whenever you use the tap.
Few things:-
1) fit them fairly low down, to give room for any adjustments needed above. Subject to other caveats;
2) fit them on a straight bit of pipe...you'll never get a seal on a bend, even a slight one (OK, obvious, but didn't want to assume);
3) don't fit them as low as they can go...if it goes wrong first time, you've got fun and games with floorboards;
4) get some new 15mm pipe from a plumbers merchant or B&Q...it's easier to get a seal on a new piece of pipe at the top than re-using some old and tatty pipe...and it's dirt cheap compared to everything else you're buying;
5) cut the pipe with a proper pipe-cutter...hacksaw isn't as clean and the extra pressure in one direction risks denting pipe slightly...and remember you need a seal;
6) Remember these valves are wider than std 15mm pipe, so if you're going to have a pedestal underneath the sink, mount them ideally below the waste outlet, otherwise you may find everything in one place and you can't put the pedestal in place;
7) Use PTFE wherever necessary, but don't go using silicone sealant unless you really have to...it's a bugger to clean off pipes when you need to take them apart!!!
They're a doddle to use - you turn on-and-off with a flat blade screwdriver, turning the valve-guide 90-degrees...so if you keep them in the "off" position you can leave the cloakroom with nothing fitted for days if you need to.
PS - no I'm not a plumber, I've just finished this myself and am writing out of BITTER experience!!!
PPS - flexi-hoses for the last stretch up to the basin are VERY handy, and a lot easier to disguise behind a pedestal...but get metal braiding...the nylon ones give a "rushing" sound whenever you use the tap.
I've just fitted stop-valves to my hot and cold water supply in the roof. That means I don't need to drain the hot and cold tanks each time I need to work on the plumbing. My cold water tank has two cold outlets - one feeds the cold taps, the other feeds the hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard.
The pipes were 22mm so I used 22mm lever ball valves. They are almost full-bore (hence no restriction) and operate with a simple 90 degree turn of the lever. Wonderful!
The pipes were 22mm so I used 22mm lever ball valves. They are almost full-bore (hence no restriction) and operate with a simple 90 degree turn of the lever. Wonderful!
Push-fit is highly dependent on the surface of the pipe being in pristine condition. It's not unknown for a length of new pipe to have longitudinal scratches from being pulled out of the racking, which form little grooves that allow water to dribble past the O-ring. The brass olives in compression fittings tend to cut into the pipe slightly and make a more reliable seal.
havoc said:Ehem...
And get the push-fit ones... more expensive than compression but well, well worth it IMHO.
You're the sort of person that goes for plastic piping as well, aren't you?!?
Push-fit vs compression - it's down to personal preference.
No, in all honesty - the only push fit connectors I used were on the braided hoses (very handy to take on and off whilst a bathroom is being done, when doing repairs etc). I also had a couple of 15mm and 22mm push-fit caps - again, very useful for blocking pipes whilst doing other "stuff".
The rest of it I used copper pipe with solder-ring joints! (not brave enough to solder myself yet!!
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