Bad paint mark....
Discussion
I don't yet have a picture to post of this, so...
...smack in the middle of the beasty's bootlid is a patch of paintwork that I can only describe as frosted. It is still the "right" colour, but from certain angles, you can clearly see the patch and other angles the frosting is almost invisible. Texturally it looks like someone crumpled sellotape up and left it on the lid, BUT I have cleaned, polished, clayed, etc and the mark remains.
Any ideas (apart froma respray!)...
...smack in the middle of the beasty's bootlid is a patch of paintwork that I can only describe as frosted. It is still the "right" colour, but from certain angles, you can clearly see the patch and other angles the frosting is almost invisible. Texturally it looks like someone crumpled sellotape up and left it on the lid, BUT I have cleaned, polished, clayed, etc and the mark remains.
Any ideas (apart froma respray!)...
I had the same thing on mine I think, i poured a few drops of GRD44 and then hairdryed it for a few minutes... t-cutted it and polished it then waxed it over and it was sorted....
if your paint itself has somehow oxidized or what you might call it, then you would need to get the lid resprayed.... problem is matching the paint properly if the rest of the body paint has naturally weathered a bit...
if your paint itself has somehow oxidized or what you might call it, then you would need to get the lid resprayed.... problem is matching the paint properly if the rest of the body paint has naturally weathered a bit...
From my own experience although lots of people say NO NO don't use T Cut, it's about the only thing I find that can deal with these marks. G3 is OK, but T Cut works harder and faster.
For sure if you don't have much paint thickness left then you're looking at a re-spray anyway.
My 'system' is:
- clean up surrounding area with something like Autoglym Intensive Tar remover (or anything similar to get rid of what's on your pain at the moment)
- use a clean duster with a blob of well shaken T Cut work away in a circular motion over the mark, anything between 1-300 motions (sad, but true I do count them) at light to medium pressure and the mark should vanish, renew your blob of T cut every 100 motions and inspect clean up each time for progress
- once the mark has gone, follow up with Meguires Scratch X, works a charm at getting rid of the T Cut residue and any micro scratches left behind, clean up with a micro-fibre cloth, repeat if necessary
- then apply your chosen wax finishes on top
I've used the above method on straight 2 pack (no clear coat) and metallic / clear coat and even the most hideous berry juice impregnated bomb load from a flock of over fed pigeons have been completely removed.
Worst case scenario, if the above doesn't work out is the loss of a few quid and a bit of elbow grease.
Good luck!
John
For sure if you don't have much paint thickness left then you're looking at a re-spray anyway.
My 'system' is:
- clean up surrounding area with something like Autoglym Intensive Tar remover (or anything similar to get rid of what's on your pain at the moment)
- use a clean duster with a blob of well shaken T Cut work away in a circular motion over the mark, anything between 1-300 motions (sad, but true I do count them) at light to medium pressure and the mark should vanish, renew your blob of T cut every 100 motions and inspect clean up each time for progress
- once the mark has gone, follow up with Meguires Scratch X, works a charm at getting rid of the T Cut residue and any micro scratches left behind, clean up with a micro-fibre cloth, repeat if necessary
- then apply your chosen wax finishes on top
I've used the above method on straight 2 pack (no clear coat) and metallic / clear coat and even the most hideous berry juice impregnated bomb load from a flock of over fed pigeons have been completely removed.
Worst case scenario, if the above doesn't work out is the loss of a few quid and a bit of elbow grease.
Good luck!
John
The mark that is described sounds like it is in the lacquer. Usually as a result of a base coat reaction but sometimes because of bird poo etc.
If the reaction has occurred on top of lacquer (obvious if you run your hand over it) then a cutting compound may remove some, if not all, of the mark. If the reaction is due to the base coat then no amount of compound will help. A bootlid respray is then your only answer.
Most bodyshops should quote around £180-200 +VAT to respray a bootlid in metallic or solid colour. (That would be our normal charge out rate) Flips, Cascades and Pearls would be extra.
If the reaction has occurred on top of lacquer (obvious if you run your hand over it) then a cutting compound may remove some, if not all, of the mark. If the reaction is due to the base coat then no amount of compound will help. A bootlid respray is then your only answer.
Most bodyshops should quote around £180-200 +VAT to respray a bootlid in metallic or solid colour. (That would be our normal charge out rate) Flips, Cascades and Pearls would be extra.
I would say that the problem is in the PPG Matting that was used in the boot lid. If the matting is of old stock is has a tendency to 'ball-up' and 'bird-nest'. The factory use a filler to disguise the problem I believe that this can effect certain paint finishes. Obviously any way to remedy, as described by others is a bonus.
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