Anyone heard of Earthquake speakers?
Discussion
Looking for some ceiling speakers and saw these, some of the youtube videos by the owner (i think) are pretty funny.
The spec on the speakers are :
Driver components: two-way system - one 8" (203mm) low mass stiff Kevlar cone mid bass + two 1" Silk dome swivelling neo tweeters
Power handling: 450W max
Frequency response 30hz-20khz
Impedance: 8-Ohm (in dipole mode)/ 4-ohm (in bipole mode)
Sensitivity: 88dB @ 1W/1m
The spec on the speakers are :
Driver components: two-way system - one 8" (203mm) low mass stiff Kevlar cone mid bass + two 1" Silk dome swivelling neo tweeters
Power handling: 450W max
Frequency response 30hz-20khz
Impedance: 8-Ohm (in dipole mode)/ 4-ohm (in bipole mode)
Sensitivity: 88dB @ 1W/1m
Yes, if you are talking Earthquake Sound.
Not particularly well known here in the UK but they are available.
I would question that max power handling through, who would want to put 450w (Max/Peak) through your ceiling? That would need some serious isolation and sound deadening.
The spec you have there is also a Dual Voice Coil, so a speaker that can present both Left and Right Channels in the same housing.
Usually they are used in areas where you can only get a single speaker in, or a long narrow space where Left/Right separation isnt possible.
There are plenty of others out there both known and lesser known brands.
And deals if you ask the right people.
V.
Not particularly well known here in the UK but they are available.
I would question that max power handling through, who would want to put 450w (Max/Peak) through your ceiling? That would need some serious isolation and sound deadening.
The spec you have there is also a Dual Voice Coil, so a speaker that can present both Left and Right Channels in the same housing.
Usually they are used in areas where you can only get a single speaker in, or a long narrow space where Left/Right separation isnt possible.
There are plenty of others out there both known and lesser known brands.
And deals if you ask the right people.
V.
wjwren said:
Not sure about max power but the YouTube channel is good. He had an in wall subwoofer and was jumping up and down on it and driving his car over it to show how strong it was!
I went looking for that last night and couldn't find it. Although the passive radiators look cool for a Ported / Sealed Sub function.
Need to talk to the importer about those.
The Thor subwoofer is very interesting.........I've not seen or heard one but the mouldings and general design & construction looks pretty well thought out.
I do have some reservations with the method of mounting the product into the wall though...........his preferred solution is to mount the enclosure directly to the 2x4 stud work. This sounds very logical at first i.e. ground the sub as securely as possible to give a solid platform for the bass driver ( and passive radiator ) to do their stuff but In my experience this rigid mounting method doesn't not work well in practice; it only serves to strongly couple low frequency energy to the superstructure of the room........and adjacent rooms.......and other floors of the building.
I've designed a couple of commercial in wall subs that have had decent reputations; in my experience, the best 'installed' sound quality is achieved by decoupling the sub from the building's structure as far as reasonably practical. Having evaluated various decoupling methods including coil springs, leaf springs,elaborate compliant damped cantilever arrangements and a few others which were all superior rigid coupling i found best solution, by some margin, both measurably and audibly, was also the simplest........this was to suspend the sub's enclosure inside the stud wall cavity using felt pads.
If considering putting any speaker capable of generating relatively loud low frequency energy ( Main L/R and Subs in particular ) into a wall or ceiling space I'd seriously consider trying to decouple the enclosure from the room(s) structure rather than trying to rigidly couple it.

I do have some reservations with the method of mounting the product into the wall though...........his preferred solution is to mount the enclosure directly to the 2x4 stud work. This sounds very logical at first i.e. ground the sub as securely as possible to give a solid platform for the bass driver ( and passive radiator ) to do their stuff but In my experience this rigid mounting method doesn't not work well in practice; it only serves to strongly couple low frequency energy to the superstructure of the room........and adjacent rooms.......and other floors of the building.
I've designed a couple of commercial in wall subs that have had decent reputations; in my experience, the best 'installed' sound quality is achieved by decoupling the sub from the building's structure as far as reasonably practical. Having evaluated various decoupling methods including coil springs, leaf springs,elaborate compliant damped cantilever arrangements and a few others which were all superior rigid coupling i found best solution, by some margin, both measurably and audibly, was also the simplest........this was to suspend the sub's enclosure inside the stud wall cavity using felt pads.
If considering putting any speaker capable of generating relatively loud low frequency energy ( Main L/R and Subs in particular ) into a wall or ceiling space I'd seriously consider trying to decouple the enclosure from the room(s) structure rather than trying to rigidly couple it.

Edited by Crackie on Saturday 5th March 12:07
Not sure about their speakers but I have a couple of Earthquake Sound Q10 shakers which are excellent, provided they are EQ'd and kept subtle enough to blend in with/extend the subs. Tactile transducers are well worth looking into for home cinema fans who need to keep the volume down 

Quick question on ceiling speakers - can a pair of stereo ceiling speakers be used together.
I have seen some stereo ceiling speakers but I would need 2 for the area I am going to use them in. What would be the best way to configure.
Il be using a Sonos amp and on the second set of speaker outputs there will be the dining room.
So my question is - can I use 2 stereos ceiling speakers as a pair.
I have seen some stereo ceiling speakers but I would need 2 for the area I am going to use them in. What would be the best way to configure.
Il be using a Sonos amp and on the second set of speaker outputs there will be the dining room.
So my question is - can I use 2 stereos ceiling speakers as a pair.
wjwren said:
Just to confirm I want 4 speakers. I've got a pair of Polk normal ceiling speakers for the dining room and a pair of stereo speakers for the kitchen. Can this be done. Can I wire the stereo speakers as a left and a right? Thanks
Yes. Each stereo speaker has two voice coils. You can wire them in series or in parallel, I would recommend wiring them in series:-ve speaker wire -> -ve terminal of voice coil 1.
+ve terminal of voice coil 1 -> -ve terminal of voice coil 2.
+ve speaker wire -> +ve terminal of voice coil 2.
FarmyardPants said:
Yes. Each stereo speaker has two voice coils. You can wire them in series or in parallel, I would recommend wiring them in series:
-ve speaker wire -> -ve terminal of voice coil 1.
+ve terminal of voice coil 1 -> -ve terminal of voice coil 2.
+ve speaker wire -> +ve terminal of voice coil 2.
Do this with caution. -ve speaker wire -> -ve terminal of voice coil 1.
+ve terminal of voice coil 1 -> -ve terminal of voice coil 2.
+ve speaker wire -> +ve terminal of voice coil 2.
At least not without checking the impedance of your speakers first - and even then they will vary across the frequency range.
Running speakers in series adds inpedances together, and you will be potentially wiring the equivalent of three speakers together - dining left + left of 1st stereo pair and then left of 2nd stereo pair.
And then the same with the right channel.
Running 2 pairs of 8ohm speakers in parrallel is usually fine.
Running 2 pairs of 4ohm speakers in series is usually fine.
But running three of any combo could blow your amp by making it work to hard or not hard enough.
An alternative would be to use a 3 or 4 speaker pair, impedance matching box would work fine as they are designed to present the correct impedance to an amp.
Hope that makes sense.
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