Which Chimaera to buy - the 5 litre?

[gce123]

Hi, I'm new to both this forum, and the world of TVR. For quite a while now I've been looking to buy a Chimaera on a limited budget (about 14k).

I've just seen a 1997 5 litre one advterised. Can any of you give me any advice on the advantages or disadvantages of a 5 litre instead of a 4 litre?

I presume the 5 litre is much rarer. Does that affect servicing/maintenance costs?

How about the performance, is there truly a difference.

Any help much appreciated.

[Nuggs]

Have you tried using the search function? This has been asked a number of times (including once this/last week) - you should get all the info you need

[Hughesie2]

drive them all and pick which one you like the most, which do you feel more comfortable with, then discount it all and buy my yellow one, they are much faster than Blue

A good 400 is much better than a poorly sorted 500

>> Edited by Hughesie2 on Thursday 28th July 18:28

[the dodger]

My personal advice: start with a 4.0L
Once you've got used to it and the very different world of TVR you can move up. This would be more difficult if you start with a 5.0L - providing you live long enough.

Just IMHO.

[Big Al.]

the dodger said:

My personal advice: start with a 4.0L

OH more than enough to handle.

[Hughesie2]

Big Al. said:

the dodger said: My personal advice: start with a 4.0L OH more than enough to handle.

But then he'll just upgrade to the daddy in a few months time wont he...

[Podie]

gce123 said:

Hi, I'm new to both this forum, and the world of TVR. For quite a while now I've been looking to buy a Chimaera on a limited budget (about 14k).

Buying is one thing, but don't forget to account for servicing... they crop up every 6k.

gce123 said:

I've just seen a 1997 5 litre one advterised. Can any of you give me any advice on the advantages or disadvantages of a 5 litre instead of a 4 litre?

5 litres may suffer from drive train shunt... and a 4 litre is often a quicker car point-to-point.

gce123 said:

I presume the 5 litre is much rarer. Does that affect servicing/maintenance costs?

Not as far as I am aware...

gce123 said:

How about the performance, is there truly a difference.

Not as much as you might think... although the 5 does have that extra low down grunt.

gce123 said:

Any help much appreciated.

Have a nose through the forums, do your homework and don't jump in to ownership. Try and get to a local TVRCC meet... or if you're Essex based then say and I'll happily take you for a blat.

[Bomber Denton]

Podie said:

gce123 said: Hi, I'm new to both this forum, and the world of TVR. For quite a while now I've been looking to buy a Chimaera on a limited budget (about 14k). Buying is one thing, but don't forget to account for servicing... they crop up every 6k. gce123 said: I've just seen a 1997 5 litre one advterised. Can any of you give me any advice on the advantages or disadvantages of a 5 litre instead of a 4 litre? 5 litres may suffer from drive train shunt... and a 4 litre is often a quicker car point-to-point. gce123 said: I presume the 5 litre is much rarer. Does that affect servicing/maintenance costs? Not as far as I am aware... gce123 said: How about the performance, is there truly a difference. Not as much as you might think... although the 5 does have that extra low down grunt. gce123 said: Any help much appreciated. Have a nose through the forums, do your homework and don't jump in to ownership. Try and get to a local TVRCC meet... or if you're Essex based then say and I'll happily take you for a blat.

Bugger I'm going to have to agree with Podie on this one!

I had a 4L for 3 years before going for a 5L all the above is true apart from drivetrain shunt, I've had none of this but you really need to get out there and find the car that you are happiest with.

Condition, condition, condition.

There isn't that much difference between the two, anyone who tells you there is is talking out of their arse.
They are both superb.

[Podie]

Bomber Denton said:

Bugger I'm going to have to agree with Podie on this one! I had a 4L for 3 years before going for a 5L all the above is true apart from drivetrain shunt, I've had none of this but you really need to get out there and find the car that you are happiest with. Condition, condition, condition. There isn't that much difference between the two, anyone who tells you there is is talking out of their arse. They are both superb.

likewise...! Can't disagree with the "condition, condition, condition" mantra.

[19560]

Podie said:

gce123 said: I presume the 5 litre is much rarer. Does that affect servicing/maintenance costs? Not as far as I am aware...

Not likely to affect a buying decision but the 5ltr has bhp up by a third (it's a bigger cc and tuned) so parts are either more expensive or wear out faster which in turn means that maintenance costs will be higher.

[Bomber Denton]

19560 said:

Podie said: gce123 said: I presume the 5 litre is much rarer. Does that affect servicing/maintenance costs? Not as far as I am aware... Not likely to affect a buying decision but the 5ltr has bhp up by a third (it's a bigger cc and tuned) so parts are either more expensive or wear out faster which in turn means that maintenance costs will be higher.

Nah, maintenance costs are identical as are servicing.
A cam or clutch will show wear on as soon on a 4 as it will a five.

Residuals will be better on a five that is the only difference.

As for BHP, we all know the figures are rubbish

A third?

[colinrob]

I bought a 4.0 a year later bought a 5.0 wish I'd have bought a 5.0 first as I lost a lot on the 4.0 they are both quick and both need respect get the 5.0 and drive carefully but as they all say it is condition to look for, at 14k you should get a decent 5.0 (tried selling mine at 14k last yesr 98 R reg not one phone call-not selling it now though)keep looking and get a 5.0 rather than upgrading after a year

[gce123]

Thanks guys for all your help.

What are the main factors to look for the "condition"? From this forum it seems that fully working electrics, and the state of the chassis are things to look out for (any notorius parts of the chassis in particular?).

Any other obvious things that make a car a turkey?

[Podie]

gce123 said:

Thanks guys for all your help. What are the main factors to look for the "condition"? From this forum it seems that fully working electrics, and the state of the chassis are things to look out for (any notorius parts of the chassis in particular?). Any other obvious things that make a car a turkey?

Check the chassis... the outriggers get the most punishment generally. It's worth paying a specialist TVR garage to inspect a car for you. It'll cost around £100 but that's better than buying a pup. Steer clear of the AA and RAC inspections as they don't relly know TVRs that well.

Check for a sticky fifth gear.. dodgy electrics, botched repairs (cracks on the front wings or rear wings), but most of all if something doesn't seem quite right - walk away!

[Bomber Denton]

Whereabouts are you located?

[Podie]

Bomber Denton said:

Whereabouts are you located?

Me or him...?!!?

[jellison]

Get a 5 life if is too short. If equal quality of car you are looking at. 5 is no more expensive to run - maybe bit more gas) and easy to drive - lazy fat old lump, you don't have to push the pedal all the way down!

[zippee]

Podie said:

Check the chassis... the outriggers get the most punishment generally. It's worth paying a specialist TVR garage to inspect a car for you. It'll cost around £100 but that's better than buying a pup. Steer clear of the AA and RAC inspections as they don't relly know TVRs that well. Check for a sticky fifth gear.. dodgy electrics, botched repairs (cracks on the front wings or rear wings), but most of all if something doesn't seem quite right - walk away!

Agree with Podie here, if your at all unsure then definitely get a proper inspection done. If you've got a particular car in mind then you can always pre-book an inspection with a local garage and take it along as part of your viewing/test drive.
If your in the Midlands James Agger comes very highly recommended.

Just DO NOT use a certain independant inspector/sourcer who is often recommended on these forums. If you need more info then PM me and I can let you have details of my experiences with him and those of several others.

Good luck in your hunt for the perfect Chim anyway.

[JonRB]

jellison said:

Get a 5 life is too short.

... and can be drastically reduced in length if you're not up to handling a 5 litre.

>> Edited by JonRB on Friday 29th July 10:49

[ATG]

gce123 said:

Thanks guys for all your help. What are the main factors to look for the "condition"? From this forum it seems that fully working electrics, and the state of the chassis are things to look out for (any notorius parts of the chassis in particular?). Any other obvious things that make a car a turkey?

I'd suggest getting hold of a copy of Steve Heath's Chimaera and Griff bible (he posts on here as "shpub" ). It'll give you a good overview of the cars and big list of things to look out for when buying.

4l versus 5l? If you aren't used to a light weight, rear wheel drive car with lots of torque, then either of these cars is capable of catching you out badly. I guess the 4l is marginally "safer" than the 5l, but then the 5l is marginally more fun. 6 of one, half a dozen of the other.

>> Edited by ATG on Friday 29th July 11:04