2012 - 2019 landcruiser. Worth the money?
Discussion
We have had 3 weeks of minus 14 temperatures recently which has been a real leveller for our vehicles. Also with so much uncertainty in the future we have decided to go from 4 cars down to 2 selling our 2013 Cayenne GTS and 2013 Volvo XC90 and buying a 2019 landcruiser. I’m sick of paying over £3000 a year for various insurances, fed up of having constant niggly faults on the 2 euro boxes so we have sort of settled on a landcruiser. (I think the one we have been looking at is called a Prado with the 2.8 4cyl diesel)
Are these things really as bulletproof as the internet makes them out to be. Anything we should be looking out for? Any features that are an absolute must?
The vehicle in question is a 2019 model from a Toyota main agent with 10k kms so pretty much as new.
We want a car to pretty much keep forever and that frees up funds for a “fun car”
Any real world experiences would be appreciated.
Are these things really as bulletproof as the internet makes them out to be. Anything we should be looking out for? Any features that are an absolute must?
The vehicle in question is a 2019 model from a Toyota main agent with 10k kms so pretty much as new.
We want a car to pretty much keep forever and that frees up funds for a “fun car”
Any real world experiences would be appreciated.
Yes. In terms of reliability, this is one of if not the best car on the planet.
They need bulbs, pads and the odd steering or suspension rubber dust cover once the mileage gets high.
My Dad has had them for years, works them very hard without maintaining them and they don't give any problems, even after 250k miles.
Is the one you're looking at on springs or air?
They need bulbs, pads and the odd steering or suspension rubber dust cover once the mileage gets high.
My Dad has had them for years, works them very hard without maintaining them and they don't give any problems, even after 250k miles.
Is the one you're looking at on springs or air?
Swoxy said:
Yes. In terms of reliability, this is one of if not the best car on the planet.
They need bulbs, pads and the odd steering or suspension rubber dust cover once the mileage gets high.
My Dad has had them for years, works them very hard without maintaining them and they don't give any problems, even after 250k miles.
Is the one you're looking at on springs or air?
Perfect sounds like the sort of thing we are looking for. It won’t be worked “hard” for a landcruiser but will probably be covering big mileages. (We do around 50k miles a year) They need bulbs, pads and the odd steering or suspension rubber dust cover once the mileage gets high.
My Dad has had them for years, works them very hard without maintaining them and they don't give any problems, even after 250k miles.
Is the one you're looking at on springs or air?
I think it’s on air looking at the switches
https://www.otomoto.pl/oferta/toyota-land-cruiser-...
They only have one fault, the chassis and rear (live) axle will rust badly if the car sees salt during winters or if you drive it on the beach or use it for boat launching in salt water.
But, you are starting off with a nearly new vehicle and intend it long term, so once the winter is out the way and you've washed it all down thoroughly underneath get rubbing down and painting, then coat it in whatever you choose depending on what is available where you live.
The basic vehicle is little changed mechanically from my 2005 120 series Prado which is completely reliable (brand new 4runner in the USA uses almost all the same running gear, see The Car Care Nut Youtube ), i've run older Toyota 4x4's for about 25 years now and literally the only failure has been an alternator, which was fairly easy DIY.
I know nothing about the 2.8 engine, Fourby4Diesel on Youtube is the font of all knowledge Diesel Prado.
If its top range it will more than likely have rear air springs, don't worry they go on for years, mine is on air and has never given any bother, an airbag is easier to change than a spring, but the air pump if it does fail is expensive, most owners if the air system fails big time buy a spring kit from Pedders/Ironman which is surprisingly cheap and convert to standard steel springs, also if its on air it might have TEMS electrically adjustable shockers, if these fail (mine haven't) they are also expensive, simply replace with good quality standard gas shocks from Pedders/Ironman, the adjustable shocks aren't really necessary.
Don't be put off if its on air, the system is very reliable, keep the sensors sprayed in something oily to keep the salt out.
If its automatic, ignore the ''oil never needs changing'' cobblers, change the gearbox oil around 60/80k miles as anyone running any gearbox of any description will tell you, its a lovely tough simple to use box.
It won't be fast but it will pull well and you develop a different style of more relaxed driving in my experience.
Chassis and rear axle rust is what kills these, very little else, they are tough, whilst painting and coating pay attention to the sills between the chassis and side steps, both ends of these get severe weathering from stones etc, its probably the most rust prone part of the body shell which is really quite rust resistant overall, i sprayed cavity wax inside these too.
Make sure you get some sort of treatment inside the chassis too, and pay special attention to the back end of the chassis, it can fill up inside with muck and you need to squirt some sort of oil based treatment under the back bumper to coat the back end of the chassis and towbar if fitted.
Brakes need stripping and cleaning every year if you get heavy salt or every other year, big 4 piston calipers on the front and its usually the inner lower piston which starts to seize first, so whip a pad out and exercise the pistons in their bores, us yopu push one in the other will come out, easy peasy to service.
Rear brakes are the well proven drum inside disc design, none of that rubbish electric parking brake, keep them serviced and they'll never give you any trouble.
Do this, service it regularly, let the turbo warm up and cool down as one should with any turbocharged engine and it really will last 25 years or more and even then you'll have no trouble selling it.
But, you are starting off with a nearly new vehicle and intend it long term, so once the winter is out the way and you've washed it all down thoroughly underneath get rubbing down and painting, then coat it in whatever you choose depending on what is available where you live.
The basic vehicle is little changed mechanically from my 2005 120 series Prado which is completely reliable (brand new 4runner in the USA uses almost all the same running gear, see The Car Care Nut Youtube ), i've run older Toyota 4x4's for about 25 years now and literally the only failure has been an alternator, which was fairly easy DIY.
I know nothing about the 2.8 engine, Fourby4Diesel on Youtube is the font of all knowledge Diesel Prado.
If its top range it will more than likely have rear air springs, don't worry they go on for years, mine is on air and has never given any bother, an airbag is easier to change than a spring, but the air pump if it does fail is expensive, most owners if the air system fails big time buy a spring kit from Pedders/Ironman which is surprisingly cheap and convert to standard steel springs, also if its on air it might have TEMS electrically adjustable shockers, if these fail (mine haven't) they are also expensive, simply replace with good quality standard gas shocks from Pedders/Ironman, the adjustable shocks aren't really necessary.
Don't be put off if its on air, the system is very reliable, keep the sensors sprayed in something oily to keep the salt out.
If its automatic, ignore the ''oil never needs changing'' cobblers, change the gearbox oil around 60/80k miles as anyone running any gearbox of any description will tell you, its a lovely tough simple to use box.
It won't be fast but it will pull well and you develop a different style of more relaxed driving in my experience.
Chassis and rear axle rust is what kills these, very little else, they are tough, whilst painting and coating pay attention to the sills between the chassis and side steps, both ends of these get severe weathering from stones etc, its probably the most rust prone part of the body shell which is really quite rust resistant overall, i sprayed cavity wax inside these too.
Make sure you get some sort of treatment inside the chassis too, and pay special attention to the back end of the chassis, it can fill up inside with muck and you need to squirt some sort of oil based treatment under the back bumper to coat the back end of the chassis and towbar if fitted.
Brakes need stripping and cleaning every year if you get heavy salt or every other year, big 4 piston calipers on the front and its usually the inner lower piston which starts to seize first, so whip a pad out and exercise the pistons in their bores, us yopu push one in the other will come out, easy peasy to service.
Rear brakes are the well proven drum inside disc design, none of that rubbish electric parking brake, keep them serviced and they'll never give you any trouble.
Do this, service it regularly, let the turbo warm up and cool down as one should with any turbocharged engine and it really will last 25 years or more and even then you'll have no trouble selling it.
Edited by Smint on Tuesday 28th December 17:11
Edited by Smint on Tuesday 28th December 17:14
I hired this specific model/year for a couple of weeks when on holiday in South Africa.
It was impressively solid, but definitely felt more like a pickup truck than something like a Disco 5 or Cayenne.
Hard plastics, engine a bit rough/noisy, fairly basic switchgear and a stiff ride.
Perfect for driving around South Africa, but I think the full-fat Landcruiser might be a better car for UK/Europe.
It was impressively solid, but definitely felt more like a pickup truck than something like a Disco 5 or Cayenne.
Hard plastics, engine a bit rough/noisy, fairly basic switchgear and a stiff ride.
Perfect for driving around South Africa, but I think the full-fat Landcruiser might be a better car for UK/Europe.
Smint said:
They only have one fault, the chassis and rear (live) axle will rust badly if the car sees salt during winters or if you drive it on the beach or use it for boat launching in salt water.
But, you are starting off with a nearly new vehicle and intend it long term, so once the winter is out the way and you've washed it all down thoroughly underneath get rubbing down and painting, then coat it in whatever you choose depending on what is available where you live.
The basic vehicle is little changed mechanically from my 2005 120 series Prado which is completely reliable (brand new 4runner in the USA uses almost all the same running gear, see The Car Care Nut Youtube ), i've run older Toyota 4x4's for about 25 years now and literally the only failure has been an alternator, which was fairly easy DIY.
I know nothing about the 2.8 engine, Fourby4Diesel on Youtube is the font of all knowledge Diesel Prado.
If its top range it will more than likely have rear air springs, don't worry they go on for years, mine is on air and has never given any bother, an airbag is easier to change than a spring, but the air pump if it does fail is expensive, most owners if the air system fails big time buy a spring kit from Pedders/Ironman which is surprisingly cheap and convert to standard steel springs, also if its on air it might have TEMS electrically adjustable shockers, if these fail (mine haven't) they are also expensive, simply replace with good quality standard gas shocks from Pedders/Ironman, the adjustable shocks aren't really necessary.
Don't be put off if its on air, the system is very reliable, keep the sensors sprayed in something oily to keep the salt out.
If its automatic, ignore the ''oil never needs changing'' cobblers, change the gearbox oil around 60/80k miles as anyone running any gearbox of any description will tell you, its a lovely tough simple to use box.
It won't be fast but it will pull well and you develop a different style of more relaxed driving in my experience.
Chassis and rear axle rust is what kills these, very little else, they are tough, whilst painting and coating pay attention to the sills between the chassis and side steps, both ends of these get severe weathering from stones etc, its probably the most rust prone part of the body shell which is really quite rust resistant overall, i sprayed cavity wax inside these too.
Make sure you get some sort of treatment inside the chassis too, and pay special attention to the back end of the chassis, it can fill up inside with muck and you need to squirt some sort of oil based treatment under the back bumper to coat the back end of the chassis and towbar if fitted.
Brakes need stripping and cleaning every year if you get heavy salt or every other year, big 4 piston calipers on the front and its usually the inner lower piston which starts to seize first, so whip a pad out and exercise the pistons in their bores, us yopu push one in the other will come out, easy peasy to service.
Rear brakes are the well proven drum inside disc design, none of that rubbish electric parking brake, keep them serviced and they'll never give you any trouble.
Do this, service it regularly, let the turbo warm up and cool down as one should with any turbocharged engine and it really will last 25 years or more and even then you'll have no trouble selling it.
Great post and thank you! The air suspension was a worry as our winters have pretty much rendered the cayenne useless in winter as the compressor blows fuses daily. It’s not garaged for now as despite our garage being huge the doors to it are to small to fit a modern car through so vehicles sleep outside whilst the rubbish stays nice and dry. But, you are starting off with a nearly new vehicle and intend it long term, so once the winter is out the way and you've washed it all down thoroughly underneath get rubbing down and painting, then coat it in whatever you choose depending on what is available where you live.
The basic vehicle is little changed mechanically from my 2005 120 series Prado which is completely reliable (brand new 4runner in the USA uses almost all the same running gear, see The Car Care Nut Youtube ), i've run older Toyota 4x4's for about 25 years now and literally the only failure has been an alternator, which was fairly easy DIY.
I know nothing about the 2.8 engine, Fourby4Diesel on Youtube is the font of all knowledge Diesel Prado.
If its top range it will more than likely have rear air springs, don't worry they go on for years, mine is on air and has never given any bother, an airbag is easier to change than a spring, but the air pump if it does fail is expensive, most owners if the air system fails big time buy a spring kit from Pedders/Ironman which is surprisingly cheap and convert to standard steel springs, also if its on air it might have TEMS electrically adjustable shockers, if these fail (mine haven't) they are also expensive, simply replace with good quality standard gas shocks from Pedders/Ironman, the adjustable shocks aren't really necessary.
Don't be put off if its on air, the system is very reliable, keep the sensors sprayed in something oily to keep the salt out.
If its automatic, ignore the ''oil never needs changing'' cobblers, change the gearbox oil around 60/80k miles as anyone running any gearbox of any description will tell you, its a lovely tough simple to use box.
It won't be fast but it will pull well and you develop a different style of more relaxed driving in my experience.
Chassis and rear axle rust is what kills these, very little else, they are tough, whilst painting and coating pay attention to the sills between the chassis and side steps, both ends of these get severe weathering from stones etc, its probably the most rust prone part of the body shell which is really quite rust resistant overall, i sprayed cavity wax inside these too.
Make sure you get some sort of treatment inside the chassis too, and pay special attention to the back end of the chassis, it can fill up inside with muck and you need to squirt some sort of oil based treatment under the back bumper to coat the back end of the chassis and towbar if fitted.
Brakes need stripping and cleaning every year if you get heavy salt or every other year, big 4 piston calipers on the front and its usually the inner lower piston which starts to seize first, so whip a pad out and exercise the pistons in their bores, us yopu push one in the other will come out, easy peasy to service.
Rear brakes are the well proven drum inside disc design, none of that rubbish electric parking brake, keep them serviced and they'll never give you any trouble.
Do this, service it regularly, let the turbo warm up and cool down as one should with any turbocharged engine and it really will last 25 years or more and even then you'll have no trouble selling it.
Edited by Smint on Tuesday 28th December 17:11
Edited by Smint on Tuesday 28th December 17:14
Salt isn’t so much of an issue in these parts as although they do spread it in winter it’s not common. Rustproofing would be one of my first investments anyway just in case. (It’s an expensive car so we’ll worth doing)
I understand what you mean regarding gearbox oil. We generally have ours flushed every 2-3 years in any case as £300 worth of oil is cheaper than a new box.
The ownership experience does sound good as although I’m not a mechanic I’m fairly competent at DIY and with both our Porsche and the Volvo requiring coding everytime someone breaks wind near either of them it would be nice to be able to do the majority of the maintenance myself.
Not bothered about speed. The polish government are sticking average speed checks up on every major road at the moment so would rather have something reliable and not be spending £700 a month in fuel. (Must be getting old). If it will pull our caravan comfortably and never go wrong majorly we will be pretty happy.
I shall get on to YouTube to research the engines but so far it looks like the ideal replacement. Fed up of driving 200kms every other month to have the cayenne “looked at”
Our ancient Lexus LS is still unburstable so if the landcruiser even comes close I shall be delighted.
Swoxy said:
That's very nice - looks like the top spec, the equivalent of the Invincible in the UK.
The air is brilliant - keeps the car level and stable even when loaded with
kg.
Excellent The air is brilliant - keeps the car level and stable even when loaded with
kg.
I would prefer air as we have a 2 tonne caravan with a 140kg hitch weight so air would make this slightly less bouncy I would think Yes I would say if you intend to keep it for 10 - 15 years then it will worth the money, I drove a basic Utiliy 2019 model here in England now discontined they only do the Commercial version now.
It was basic 5 door manual gear box , steel wheels , 5 seats standard springs . It was just great to plod along , drove it for a couple of hours & enjoyed it .
Totally agree about underbody protection it all looked a bit poor for a car under 1 year old , the other thing I noticed the add blue filler is next to the engine in the middle of bay & easy to spill ,,someone has previousley topped it up. I think you will get around 9,000 miles out of 10 litres of Add blue depending on your driving so will need toping up between services.
It will feel slow compared to what your used to & will bounce around a bit towing & with a large caravan it may be up & down the auto box more than your used to .
It was basic 5 door manual gear box , steel wheels , 5 seats standard springs . It was just great to plod along , drove it for a couple of hours & enjoyed it .
Totally agree about underbody protection it all looked a bit poor for a car under 1 year old , the other thing I noticed the add blue filler is next to the engine in the middle of bay & easy to spill ,,someone has previousley topped it up. I think you will get around 9,000 miles out of 10 litres of Add blue depending on your driving so will need toping up between services.
It will feel slow compared to what your used to & will bounce around a bit towing & with a large caravan it may be up & down the auto box more than your used to .
rosejem said:
Yes I would say if you intend to keep it for 10 - 15 years then it will worth the money, I drove a basic Utiliy 2019 model here in England now discontined they only do the Commercial version now.
It was basic 5 door manual gear box , steel wheels , 5 seats standard springs . It was just great to plod along , drove it for a couple of hours & enjoyed it .
Totally agree about underbody protection it all looked a bit poor for a car under 1 year old , the other thing I noticed the add blue filler is next to the engine in the middle of bay & easy to spill ,,someone has previousley topped it up. I think you will get around 9,000 miles out of 10 litres of Add blue depending on your driving so will need toping up between services.
It will feel slow compared to what your used to & will bounce around a bit towing & with a large caravan it may be up & down the auto box more than your used to .
They do sound like the perfect car. The plan is to keep it very very long term. As anti ph as this sounds I’ve grown tired of constant little issues. I had to go somewhere the other day and out of 4 cars on the driveway I ended up having to take my 23 year old rav4 as the 2 euro boxes failed to proceed and stupidly I had neglected to fit my winter tyres to the Lexus (not the cars fault) It was basic 5 door manual gear box , steel wheels , 5 seats standard springs . It was just great to plod along , drove it for a couple of hours & enjoyed it .
Totally agree about underbody protection it all looked a bit poor for a car under 1 year old , the other thing I noticed the add blue filler is next to the engine in the middle of bay & easy to spill ,,someone has previousley topped it up. I think you will get around 9,000 miles out of 10 litres of Add blue depending on your driving so will need toping up between services.
It will feel slow compared to what your used to & will bounce around a bit towing & with a large caravan it may be up & down the auto box more than your used to .
This made me think a landcruiser would be perfect. My wife test drove it with me and loved it. Nowhere near as quick as what we have however it had that feeling of solidity and actual quality about it along with the feeling it would just keep going forever.
I’m limited to 100kph (90 legally) pulling the van in any case. LC seats seemed a lot better than in the Volvo and the Porsche too.
I think I shall be (well my wife shall be) writing 2 for sale adverts next week.
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