Audi TT brake problem

[Abdul Abulbul Amir]

I wonder if anyone can help with an issue I'm getting with my 2009 tt.

I've noticed a bit of squeeking from somewhere at low speed after using the car for a drive.

The discs were a bit hot all round but the other day the same problem occurred with only the front nearside being very hot and the wheel also being hot and the caliper binding.

I've changed the caliper but still noticed an amount of drag on the wheel when it is up on a jack..unsure how much is normal.

Could it be something else, how hot should discs get after driving just a few minutes.

There is an EPS fault light on the dash, this may be related, I'll try and get the code read.

[E-bmw]

EPS is extremely unlikely to refer to brakes (Electronic Power Steering I would guess)

When the caliper was changed, was it the full caliper or just the moving part?

Were the sliding pins checked if the full caliper was not changed & were they greased?

[Abdul Abulbul Amir]

E-bmw said:

EPS is extremely unlikely to refer to brakes (Electronic Power Steering I would guess)

When the caliper was changed, was it the full caliper or just the moving part?

Were the sliders checked if not changed & were they greased?

Thanks, just had a buddy read all the faults. I suspct the code fault weas due to letting the battery run too low.

I changed just the caliper...not the carrier and greased up the new slider bolts. I had previously cleaned up and regreased the old slider bolts so hopefully it was a siezed piston.

[Pastor Of Muppets]

One of the problems with calipers sticking is the rubber bush (that the slider pins go through) becomes compressed by corrosion, so you can grease the sliders copiously but they will still be hard to move once it's all refitted. What you need to do is remove the slider pins and the rubber bushings (WD40 or similar helps get them out) as well, chances are you will find the inside where the rubber sits is rusted, file / sand / dremel the rust, grease it along with the rubber bush and re-insert it back into the caliper, you should then find the sliders move a lot easier.

The corrosion in there is often not apparent until you prise out the rubber bushings. but it can have a profound effect on brake performance.

[Abdul Abulbul Amir]

Thanks.

I'm finding now that the side I have replaced the disc gets hot and the other side is quite cold, so maybe the new one is doing all the work.

I think I will replace the other caliper but annoyingly the seller has closed down until the NY. In the meantime I'll take a look at the rubbers.

[Dave Brand]

Pastor Of Muppets said:

What you need to do is remove the slider pins and the rubber bushings (WD40 or similar helps get them out) as well,

Apert from the fact that WD40 is useless as a release agent, it's not a good idea to use a petroleum-based product on rubber bushes, as it may cause them to swell.

[Pastor Of Muppets]

Abdul Abulbul Amir said:

Thanks.

I'm finding now that the side I have replaced the disc gets hot and the other side is quite cold, so maybe the new one is doing all the work.

I think I will replace the other caliper but annoyingly the seller has closed down until the NY. In the meantime I'll take a look at the rubbers.

Depends how hot, discs will always generate a bit of heat. If your disc is excessively hot, it would indicate seizure, something is keeping the pads in contact with the disc, either slider pins, caliper piston, or very commonly the pads are seized on the carrier, make sure your pads are free to move on the carrier, stuck pads are one of the biggest causes of brake problems.