MX5 NC.5 Bose stereo intermittent
Discussion
Hello fellow NCers.
Was wondering if any of you have experienced your Bose stereo working intermittently? Ours has started to be a bit on/off of late so wondered if this is a common thing? If so, anything obvious to check & fix?
The stereo head unit always turns on (ie display) but sometimes there's no sound. Seems to work again the next day if it didn't the day before.
Cheers for any pointers
Was wondering if any of you have experienced your Bose stereo working intermittently? Ours has started to be a bit on/off of late so wondered if this is a common thing? If so, anything obvious to check & fix?
The stereo head unit always turns on (ie display) but sometimes there's no sound. Seems to work again the next day if it didn't the day before.
Cheers for any pointers
Bit late to spot this thread.
STS Services Ltd
Used them myself when my 2009 vintage Bose MX5 amp played up. Great service.
STS Services Ltd
Used them myself when my 2009 vintage Bose MX5 amp played up. Great service.
Scottish bloke wouldn't guarentee his fix, Mazda wanted over £800 for a replacement amp. Mine went like it had a machine gun going at full volume.
I ended up fitting a new 2 Din facia and a pioneer unit with Android and Apple connect so I can have google maps/Waze etc as sat nav on the display, with a smaller pioneer amp in the amp space.
It sound like the amp, but if it turns out to the the head unit I have one spare
I ended up fitting a new 2 Din facia and a pioneer unit with Android and Apple connect so I can have google maps/Waze etc as sat nav on the display, with a smaller pioneer amp in the amp space.
It sound like the amp, but if it turns out to the the head unit I have one spare
Think I'll go down the double din route, a couple of questions...
The head unit isn't currently marked Bose. Does that mean it's different? Looks the same, just not marked Bose.
If I fit a double din unit, am I going to need an interface for the steering wheel controls, or are they plug and play? I'm talking about something half decent, Pioneer, Sony, etc.
The head unit isn't currently marked Bose. Does that mean it's different? Looks the same, just not marked Bose.
If I fit a double din unit, am I going to need an interface for the steering wheel controls, or are they plug and play? I'm talking about something half decent, Pioneer, Sony, etc.
Is it definitely a Bose stereo? The Bose stereos are marked as such, the non bose stereos look basically the same but are easier to exchange for alternatives.
To bosectomy a car properly you need to remove the head unit, amp and speakers and this involves running speaker wires from the new head unit up to the parcel shelf to interface with the original speaker wiring (the original Bose head unit to amp wiring is very thin gauge). It's not a hard job but it's all unnecessary on a non bose car, you just swap head unit, a basic wiring adapter and speaker upgrade if you want as the speakers are normal. On a Bose car you need to do it all at the same time due to the stupid speakers they use. Not to mention pulling the rear plastics and roll bar out to get to the amp.
Of course you could use the more complex and expensive wiring adapter for Bose cars but you will be keeping the original amp and speakers which are the 2 unreliable bits of the system and the bits which produce that wonderful base rich but muddy horrible sound that seems to be the hallmark of Bose.
To bosectomy a car properly you need to remove the head unit, amp and speakers and this involves running speaker wires from the new head unit up to the parcel shelf to interface with the original speaker wiring (the original Bose head unit to amp wiring is very thin gauge). It's not a hard job but it's all unnecessary on a non bose car, you just swap head unit, a basic wiring adapter and speaker upgrade if you want as the speakers are normal. On a Bose car you need to do it all at the same time due to the stupid speakers they use. Not to mention pulling the rear plastics and roll bar out to get to the amp.
Of course you could use the more complex and expensive wiring adapter for Bose cars but you will be keeping the original amp and speakers which are the 2 unreliable bits of the system and the bits which produce that wonderful base rich but muddy horrible sound that seems to be the hallmark of Bose.
On our NC, the amp was in a panel between the rear seats, easily accessible and removed with 4 10mm bolts. No need to dismantle anything.
The pioneer head unit we have maps all the controls through the steering wheel as before. Only difference is a windscreen dab aerial on the passenger side, unobtrusive, and the new microphone by the courtesy light.
I also have a Bose spare head unit if anyone needs it...
The pioneer head unit we have maps all the controls through the steering wheel as before. Only difference is a windscreen dab aerial on the passenger side, unobtrusive, and the new microphone by the courtesy light.
I also have a Bose spare head unit if anyone needs it...
OK, so I've just looked, the amp is in the pop out panel behind the drivers seat. It's held in with a frame that comes out with 4 bolts. Our amp was knacked, made max volume machine gun sounds. We've got a small pioneer amp there now
The new 2din unit needs a new facia but it all fits and looks stock.
and this is what it replaces - edit rotated photo - had it upside down
Thats sitting here not used if its any use
The new 2din unit needs a new facia but it all fits and looks stock.
and this is what it replaces - edit rotated photo - had it upside down
Thats sitting here not used if its any use
Edited by Byker28i on Tuesday 14th December 11:35
The Prht cars do have the amp easily accessible as stated.
Unfortunately all the roadsters are up on the rear shelf and it's a bit of a pain of a job. But it's not difficult or beyond the scope of the home mechanic, I'd suggest the sensible route is.
Centre console out. Seats out. Strip the plastics out, they come out from the top down starting with the roll hoop covers. You do need to take the side panels out too where they meet the doors and seatbelt towers. And just methodically work through. Plan about half an hour in each direction to remove and replace it all. On replacing I suggest some rtv placed on the feet of the plastic shelf pieces where they meet the metal parcel shelf. These are prone to rattling at the best of times. This stops it dead. If it doesn't rattle now, it will once it's all been out once.
Do buy some of the Mazda trim clips, you need the push in centre type and the slide in type as used on the top of the side skirts, they can be got for pennies off eBay or mx5parts/autolink for ease. Half a dozen of each will do you.
Run speaker wires down the tunnel from head unit. With door cards off continuity check the speaker wires from amp to speakers. Connect wires together and reassemble. Sounds hard work but it's fairly easy if you just go methodically.
It's a good time to also change to the later type centre console if yours is an nc1. Just make sure the facia plate you buy matches the centre console, nc1 and nc2/3 take a different shape facia. Door cards make a nice swap on to nc1 cars too. Both door cards and centre console basically go straight on.
Unfortunately all the roadsters are up on the rear shelf and it's a bit of a pain of a job. But it's not difficult or beyond the scope of the home mechanic, I'd suggest the sensible route is.
Centre console out. Seats out. Strip the plastics out, they come out from the top down starting with the roll hoop covers. You do need to take the side panels out too where they meet the doors and seatbelt towers. And just methodically work through. Plan about half an hour in each direction to remove and replace it all. On replacing I suggest some rtv placed on the feet of the plastic shelf pieces where they meet the metal parcel shelf. These are prone to rattling at the best of times. This stops it dead. If it doesn't rattle now, it will once it's all been out once.
Do buy some of the Mazda trim clips, you need the push in centre type and the slide in type as used on the top of the side skirts, they can be got for pennies off eBay or mx5parts/autolink for ease. Half a dozen of each will do you.
Run speaker wires down the tunnel from head unit. With door cards off continuity check the speaker wires from amp to speakers. Connect wires together and reassemble. Sounds hard work but it's fairly easy if you just go methodically.
It's a good time to also change to the later type centre console if yours is an nc1. Just make sure the facia plate you buy matches the centre console, nc1 and nc2/3 take a different shape facia. Door cards make a nice swap on to nc1 cars too. Both door cards and centre console basically go straight on.
Just to close this/help other roadster owners whose Bose amp has given up the ghost..
I got the amp out after removing much of the rear plastic trim (didn't need to take the seats out). As mentioned upthread, it's not difficult to take apart - or put back together afterwards - minimal swearing/skin removal. The amp got sent to Boserepairexperts.co.uk who turned it around very quickly indeed plus gave it a lifetime warranty, so they get a big thumbs up!
Refitted and working again - one happy Mrs Hammerhead
Rear trim out
It's under the felt padding (driver's side).
Parcel shelf out of the way - now you can unbolt it and remove from the car.
Amp out - The cat gave it the look of disdain..
I got the amp out after removing much of the rear plastic trim (didn't need to take the seats out). As mentioned upthread, it's not difficult to take apart - or put back together afterwards - minimal swearing/skin removal. The amp got sent to Boserepairexperts.co.uk who turned it around very quickly indeed plus gave it a lifetime warranty, so they get a big thumbs up!
Refitted and working again - one happy Mrs Hammerhead
Rear trim out
It's under the felt padding (driver's side).
Parcel shelf out of the way - now you can unbolt it and remove from the car.
Amp out - The cat gave it the look of disdain..
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