Why you must change the oil pressure relief valve spring
Discussion
The is where the spring resides, in the oil feed line for the oil pump
If the spring fractures, and you fail to remove all the fragments, then this happens
The problem is that it is impossible to disassemble the oil pump without the casing failing
Not a problem if new casings exist - but they don't
So the only way to repair the oil pump is by finding a donor AJP8 engine - not quick, easy or cheap
If the spring fractures, and you fail to remove all the fragments, then this happens
The problem is that it is impossible to disassemble the oil pump without the casing failing
Not a problem if new casings exist - but they don't
So the only way to repair the oil pump is by finding a donor AJP8 engine - not quick, easy or cheap
Edited by ukkid35 on Thursday 22 July 21:05
I hope that isn’t yours that you refer to
Are there any drawings available for the AJP? I know when parts are made for historic aircraft restorations they typically use a 3D scanner to make a digital model and use that to program the CNC, but I would expect you also need tolerances for an oil pump
Are there any drawings available for the AJP? I know when parts are made for historic aircraft restorations they typically use a 3D scanner to make a digital model and use that to program the CNC, but I would expect you also need tolerances for an oil pump
I used to change the spring every major service, and always advised others to do the same - they're peanuts in price compared to the possible outcome. It's a bit like fuel pipes though, everyone knows they should be checked and changed but service centres still ignore them. The only loser is the car owner. Always ask if your oil spring is being replaced at the major service, if not ask what else they aren't doing.
spitfire4v8 said:
I used to change the spring every major service, and always advised others to do the same - they're peanuts in price compared to the possible outcome. It's a bit like fuel pipes though, everyone knows they should be checked and changed but service centres still ignore them. The only loser is the car owner. Always ask if your oil spring is being replaced at the major service, if not ask what else they aren't doing.
Who would you recommend as a spring supplier Joolz?ukkid35 said:
The is where the spring resides, in the oil feed line for the oil pump
If the spring fractures, and you fail to remove all the fragments, then this happens
The problem is that it is impossible to disassemble the oil pump without the casing failing
Not a problem if new casings exist - but they don't
So the only way to repair the oil pump is by finding a donor AJP8 engine - not quick, easy or cheap
Bit terrifying that!If the spring fractures, and you fail to remove all the fragments, then this happens
The problem is that it is impossible to disassemble the oil pump without the casing failing
Not a problem if new casings exist - but they don't
So the only way to repair the oil pump is by finding a donor AJP8 engine - not quick, easy or cheap
Edited by ukkid35 on Thursday 22 July 21:05
Was there a batch of dodgy springs at any point?
The early silver spring was very prone to failure, the later black springs less so, but it still happens.
new springs are 7 pounds plus vat from racing green. buy one and put it in your car when you next take it for service, no excuse for the service centre not to fit it then.
new springs are 7 pounds plus vat from racing green. buy one and put it in your car when you next take it for service, no excuse for the service centre not to fit it then.
Edited by spitfire4v8 on Friday 23 July 13:43
spitfire4v8 said:
The early silver spring was very prone to failure, the later black springs less so, but it still happens.
new springs are 7 pounds plus vat from racing green. buy one and put it in your car when you next take it for service, no excuse for the service centre not to fit it then.
Oh thank you for this, I have a black one in a packet here, and it was a black one I last changed new springs are 7 pounds plus vat from racing green. buy one and put it in your car when you next take it for service, no excuse for the service centre not to fit it then.
Edited by spitfire4v8 on Friday 23 July 13:43
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spitfire4v8 said:
The early silver spring was very prone to failure, the later black springs less so, but it still happens.
new springs are 7 pounds plus vat from racing green. buy one and put it in your car when you next take it for service, no excuse for the service centre not to fit it then.
Joolz is right as usual, the silver springs really should be avoidednew springs are 7 pounds plus vat from racing green. buy one and put it in your car when you next take it for service, no excuse for the service centre not to fit it then.
ukkid35 said:
Joolz is right as usual, the silver springs really should be avoided
Hey Paul - I was intrigued about this as I never heard of this part before so went investigating and as far as I can see at the moment the only "TVR" branded springs that are for sale seem to be the silver ones from Motaclan that have 6 loops and look like the ones you say to be avoided (part number TVR E2576)TVRSW looks like they _did_ have the black ones in stock, but they are now out of stock - the photo they have shows 7 loops and a black spring and is also part number E2576
The nearest I could find from 'other' manufacturers are the short ones for early VWs which are also black and have the 7 loops and _appear_ to be very similar to the TVRSW ones, but then I know nothing about springs or spring tension or anything like that so have no idea if they would be suitable or not
I'm trying to put together a TVR Cerbera First Aid Kit, like Aide did for his car, so that when something _does_ pack in then I have the part ready to go
Addendum:
Motaclan do have a black 7 loop one, but they list as TVR E6651 and for later Cerbera and Speed 6 engines not for the earlier Cerbera engines
So now I have no idea which one is right
Edited by Juddder on Sunday 28th September 17:43
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