What is your used car checking routine. How can I improve.
Discussion
1) Call seller - try and sus him out over the phone, you can usually tell if genuine.
2) View car, open bonnet before turning engine on.
3) check oil cap, check coolant.
4) turn engine on, open coolant resovoir and give it a few revs, look for bubbles.
5) open oil cap, look for smoke from the engine through the oil cap/dipstick hole.
6) check tailpipe for smoke/water
7) if all checks out 60% sure will buy the car
8) get in car, give it a few revs, listen for any rattles.
9) check clutch, row through all gears.
10) drive until car is up to temp, if no overheating buy car.
This is my usual routine, how would you rate it? If there anything I should add/do differently? And what is your routine
I think my flaw is I don't do enough bodywork checks.
I do pretty much all you have done.
I also check online to see what faults are common with the vehicle I’m looking at.
OBD reader? 2 private sellers didn’t mind me using it and were actually quite interested. Can see if EML has been recently reset or other stuff that might not throw a EML.
Biggest thing I find is the seller themselves. Last private seller clearly wasn’t a sales man which is why I got the car.
I also check online to see what faults are common with the vehicle I’m looking at.
OBD reader? 2 private sellers didn’t mind me using it and were actually quite interested. Can see if EML has been recently reset or other stuff that might not throw a EML.
Biggest thing I find is the seller themselves. Last private seller clearly wasn’t a sales man which is why I got the car.
Depending on the age of the car.. If its been built within the last 10 years I spend less time under the bonnet and more going over body work,
Otherwise I'll check tyre/wheel condition, try to gauge how much meat is left in brake pads, check general cleanliness of the car inside and out (you can usually tell if the car has never been cleaned other than now that it's for Sale)...
Then check to see how careful the owner has been with regards to keeping documentation and accessories like 2nd/3rd keys, boot liners, spare mats etc..
Oh, and go through the cars online mot history too.. In fact, usually I've done that way before going to see the car.
Otherwise I'll check tyre/wheel condition, try to gauge how much meat is left in brake pads, check general cleanliness of the car inside and out (you can usually tell if the car has never been cleaned other than now that it's for Sale)...
Then check to see how careful the owner has been with regards to keeping documentation and accessories like 2nd/3rd keys, boot liners, spare mats etc..
Oh, and go through the cars online mot history too.. In fact, usually I've done that way before going to see the car.
Timed eBay auctions are usually well described.
I bought a Vito van at eBay auction, which broke down on the way home. I had thoroughly checked it over but a random failure of the “EIS” system rendered it an immovable object 200 miles from home.
Seller was more annoyed with it than me. He paid for a b&b + the repair and I got home the next day.
I bought a Vito van at eBay auction, which broke down on the way home. I had thoroughly checked it over but a random failure of the “EIS” system rendered it an immovable object 200 miles from home.
Seller was more annoyed with it than me. He paid for a b&b + the repair and I got home the next day.
Psychology. The seller is the biggest thing for me it trumps initially even looking at or round the car.
Had a car up for sale this week, a myriad of scammer, Walter Mitty dreamers, 'whats your lowest price', innit tho bruv's......later and I am keeping the car. I thought the idea was you found a decent example, spoke to the seller, then got off your arse with the bunce and went and viewed and purchased........apparently things have changed.
Had a car up for sale this week, a myriad of scammer, Walter Mitty dreamers, 'whats your lowest price', innit tho bruv's......later and I am keeping the car. I thought the idea was you found a decent example, spoke to the seller, then got off your arse with the bunce and went and viewed and purchased........apparently things have changed.
Edited by Flanners on Sunday 11th April 08:06
Edited by Flanners on Sunday 11th April 08:09
I’m with Flanners. It’s the seller every time.
Usually I’ve decided by the time I’ve walked up to the car whether it is a good’un just from speaking to the individual selling it, their enthusiasm, knowledge, attitude etc.
From that point on, a reasonable but not obsessive look around the car for obvious misuse or damage. But old cars break unexpectedly so I know that I cannot check or expect everything to work every time or forever. Like a lightbulb, switching it on only proves it works on that occasion not the next.
In a nutshell, a good car should have me looking for reasons not to buy. If I’m I’m trying to find reason to buy, I try to make myself step away.
Usually I’ve decided by the time I’ve walked up to the car whether it is a good’un just from speaking to the individual selling it, their enthusiasm, knowledge, attitude etc.
From that point on, a reasonable but not obsessive look around the car for obvious misuse or damage. But old cars break unexpectedly so I know that I cannot check or expect everything to work every time or forever. Like a lightbulb, switching it on only proves it works on that occasion not the next.
In a nutshell, a good car should have me looking for reasons not to buy. If I’m I’m trying to find reason to buy, I try to make myself step away.
boot carpet up , check for signs of damage /bad repairs , and that the spare + kit is there , open each door and run your fingers around the edge of the door and the jamb , poor quality paint jobs will often leave a sharp edge
make sure a/c and all elec gadgets work as they should
check mot history online for mileage issues and mentions of rust /expensive stuff
make sure a/c and all elec gadgets work as they should
check mot history online for mileage issues and mentions of rust /expensive stuff
Two things not stressed enough here: Try to view first when garage shut, then. back at home, research all reviews. The second was from Quentin Wilson: look hard at the place of sale, the whole environment; for private sale take the area into account; for trade look up the history of the garage.
Edited by Lester H on Sunday 11th April 09:04
1) Bodywork/underbody/glass/lights/wheels/brakes
2) interior trim
3) engine bay and engine start/run
4) then the paperwork
These are in order of importance to me. I’ve often walked away after (1) - if that’s not up scratch there’s no point in going further. If it passes (2) and (3) I’ll usually ballpark the seller and if we’re on common ground, spend the time on (4). I normally then make an offer subject to test drive.
2) interior trim
3) engine bay and engine start/run
4) then the paperwork
These are in order of importance to me. I’ve often walked away after (1) - if that’s not up scratch there’s no point in going further. If it passes (2) and (3) I’ll usually ballpark the seller and if we’re on common ground, spend the time on (4). I normally then make an offer subject to test drive.
Jamaica said:
1) Call seller - try and sus him out over the phone, you can usually tell if genuine.
2) View car, open bonnet before turning engine on.
3) check oil cap, check coolant.
4) turn engine on, open coolant resovoir and give it a few revs, look for bubbles.
5) open oil cap, look for smoke from the engine through the oil cap/dipstick hole.
6) check tailpipe for smoke/water
7) if all checks out 60% sure will buy the car
8) get in car, give it a few revs, listen for any rattles.
9) check clutch, row through all gears.
10) drive until car is up to temp, if no overheating buy car.
This is my usual routine, how would you rate it? If there anything I should add/do differently? And what is your routine
I think my flaw is I don't do enough bodywork checks.
Before calling do an MOT History check & see what it shows, then ring the seller, if I decide to view then a HPI & V check after that do your checks plus checkout the receipts, if there aren't receipts for work they say has been done then it hasn't been done & the price drops accordingly.2) View car, open bonnet before turning engine on.
3) check oil cap, check coolant.
4) turn engine on, open coolant resovoir and give it a few revs, look for bubbles.
5) open oil cap, look for smoke from the engine through the oil cap/dipstick hole.
6) check tailpipe for smoke/water
7) if all checks out 60% sure will buy the car
8) get in car, give it a few revs, listen for any rattles.
9) check clutch, row through all gears.
10) drive until car is up to temp, if no overheating buy car.
This is my usual routine, how would you rate it? If there anything I should add/do differently? And what is your routine
I think my flaw is I don't do enough bodywork checks.
ZX10R NIN said:
Before calling do an MOT History check & see what it shows, then ring the seller, if I decide to view then a HPI & V check after that do your checks plus checkout the receipts, if there aren't receipts for work they say has been done then it hasn't been done & the price drops accordingly.
Great tip. Find the car online, check out the MOT history.
Buy from a decent dealer who will stand by the warranty.
Visual check of the bits the warranty won't cover - bodywork, interior, tyres & wheels.
Go for a test drive, making sure that all the electrics work and it drives properly.
Haggle for a deal.
I can't remember the last time I even opened the bonnet when buying a car - it's just a sea of pipes and plastic now.
Buy from a decent dealer who will stand by the warranty.
Visual check of the bits the warranty won't cover - bodywork, interior, tyres & wheels.
Go for a test drive, making sure that all the electrics work and it drives properly.
Haggle for a deal.
I can't remember the last time I even opened the bonnet when buying a car - it's just a sea of pipes and plastic now.
griffter said:
1) Bodywork/underbody/glass/lights/wheels/brakes
2) interior trim
3) engine bay and engine start/run
4) then the paperwork
These are in order of importance to me. I’ve often walked away after (1) - if that’s not up scratch there’s no point in going further. If it passes (2) and (3) I’ll usually ballpark the seller and if we’re on common ground, spend the time on (4). I normally then make an offer subject to test drive.
I usually fall down here, i do not check the bodywork.2) interior trim
3) engine bay and engine start/run
4) then the paperwork
These are in order of importance to me. I’ve often walked away after (1) - if that’s not up scratch there’s no point in going further. If it passes (2) and (3) I’ll usually ballpark the seller and if we’re on common ground, spend the time on (4). I normally then make an offer subject to test drive.
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