Battery Brain
Battery Brain
Author
Discussion

Argent

Original Poster:

480 posts

258 months

Wednesday 13th January 2021
quotequote all
Hi All

Can anyone recommend a battery brain they’ve fitted? Not using the Griff quite so much in lockdown!

A

R8FUN

282 posts

220 months

Saturday 16th January 2021
quotequote all
Argent said:
Hi All

Can anyone recommend a battery brain they’ve fitted? Not using the Griff quite so much in lockdown!

A
I have never heard the phrase Battery Brain?

I have a CTEK XS3.8 Battery Conditioner (trickle charger) for my Griff.
I have it wall mounted in the Garage & hard wired into the boot.

First job I did when I bought the car.

Hedgehopper

1,542 posts

261 months

Saturday 16th January 2021
quotequote all
R8FUN said:
I have it wall mounted in the Garage & hard wired into the boot.
You must do quite short journeys then.... wink

Argent

Original Poster:

480 posts

258 months

Saturday 16th January 2021
quotequote all
Thanks for the reply but I thinking more of a battery isolation switch that can be activated by a key fob. With a bit of research found something at www.batterybrain.co.uk and other cheaper options on fleabay.


A

darojac

4 posts

154 months

Sunday 17th January 2021
quotequote all
I’ve got one on my Griffith, mainly to protect the twin Redtops I have on mine - you’re probably aware that these batteries are knackered if allowed to discharge. The batterybrain disconnects below 11.8v. Also allows me to lock the car then disconnect the batteries remotely when laid up in winter.

David Beer

3,982 posts

284 months

Sunday 17th January 2021
quotequote all
On my defender I have a solar panel, plumbed in permanently, just pop it on the dash when not using the car. Not failed to start in 7 years and if the car goes out once a month, it’s excessive use ! Longest left in the winter around 4 months, no problems. Ok if it were in a garage, plan b.
Cost twenty quid.

900T-R

20,405 posts

274 months

Wednesday 20th January 2021
quotequote all
David Beer said:
On my defender I have a solar panel, plumbed in permanently, just pop it on the dash when not using the car. Not failed to start in 7 years and if the car goes out once a month, it’s excessive use ! Longest left in the winter around 4 months, no problems. Ok if it were in a garage, plan b.
Cost twenty quid.
Not much use if your car lives in a garage or an underground car park, though?

The trouble with Battery Brains is their bulk - put them on the positive battery as intended and they effectively make the battery like 4" wider. Even with a much smaller battery you don't really get them tucked up nice in the battery box without some cutting and then still the + cable run will be a bit of a mare.

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

126 months

Wednesday 20th January 2021
quotequote all
Argent said:
Thanks for the reply but I thinking more of a battery isolation switch that can be activated by a key fob. With a bit of research found something at www.batterybrain.co.uk and other cheaper options on fleabay.


A
Would be wanting to know the lowest voltage/battery condition required to start the engine on a cold day before ordering

Voltage setting is carried out by the supplier

Something wrong with a master switch?

David Beer

3,982 posts

284 months

Wednesday 20th January 2021
quotequote all
900T-R said:
Not much use if your car lives in a garage or an underground car park, though?

The trouble with Battery Brains is their bulk - put them on the positive battery as intended and they effectively make the battery like 4" wider. Even with a much smaller battery you don't really get them tucked up nice in the battery box without some cutting and then still the + cable run will be a bit of a mare.
I did say no good if in a garage. Well actually go to plan b .

ToneyCaroney

1,069 posts

201 months

Wednesday 20th January 2021
quotequote all
I had one fitted to my Griff. Great device if you get the one with the remote key fob. It’s true that you’ll need to fiddle about a bit to get it to fit in the battery compartment but (at least with my car) it was possible without having to mod anything. Thoroughly recommend it if it’s not practicable to leave attached to a battery conditioner.

Argent

Original Poster:

480 posts

258 months

Friday 22nd January 2021
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
Would be wanting to know the lowest voltage/battery condition required to start the engine on a cold day before ordering

Voltage setting is carried out by the supplier

Something wrong with a master switch?
Appreciate that P S but I’m looking for a remotely controlled device for long periods of standing like the present

Penelope Stopit

11,209 posts

126 months

Saturday 23rd January 2021
quotequote all
Argent said:
Penelope Stopit said:
Would be wanting to know the lowest voltage/battery condition required to start the engine on a cold day before ordering

Voltage setting is carried out by the supplier

Something wrong with a master switch?
Appreciate that P S but I’m looking for a remotely controlled device for long periods of standing like the present
Understood

Is there anything stopping you from finding out what circuit/circuits are constantly draining the battery, fixing any faults found that are

causing those circuits to draw current when they shouldn't be and wiring in a switch to remove supplies from the radio and other

circuits that should be constantly drawing current of which there should be few?

Argent

Original Poster:

480 posts

258 months

Saturday 30th January 2021
quotequote all
Penelope Stopit said:
Argent said:
Penelope Stopit said:
Would be wanting to know the lowest voltage/battery condition required to start the engine on a cold day before ordering

Voltage setting is carried out by the supplier

Something wrong with a master switch?
Appreciate that P S but I’m looking for a remotely controlled device for long periods of standing like the present
Understood

Is there anything stopping you from finding out what circuit/circuits are constantly draining the battery, fixing any faults found that are

causing those circuits to draw current when they shouldn't be and wiring in a switch to remove supplies from the radio and other

circuits that should be constantly drawing current of which there should be few?
Fair enough, so what are the typical parasitic drain culprits and other then the alarm/immobiliser and radio memory what else can I expect to legitimately draw current?


Loubaruch

1,383 posts

215 months

Saturday 30th January 2021
quotequote all
The interior light control relay ( the yellow one on the fuse/relay panel) is a known culprit for leaking current when it ages. It is not just a relay but contains a few semiconductors etc.

When asking "Stopit" questions on here be aware that he does not have a TVR so his reply may not be accurate or helpful.

davidd

6,609 posts

301 months

Thursday
quotequote all
R8FUN said:
I have never heard the phrase Battery Brain?

I have a CTEK XS3.8 Battery Conditioner (trickle charger) for my Griff.
I have it wall mounted in the Garage & hard wired into the boot.

First job I did when I bought the car.
I was just about to ask if anyone could tell me where there was a 12v+ in the boot so I could wire in my ctek...

Help please.

Thanks

D

dutydog

72 posts

232 months

Thursday
quotequote all
Why dont you buy one of these so you can turn the battery on and off when its parked up in the garage?
www.batterybrain.co.uk

Belle427

10,915 posts

250 months

Thursday
quotequote all
davidd said:
R8FUN said:
I have never heard the phrase Battery Brain?

I have a CTEK XS3.8 Battery Conditioner (trickle charger) for my Griff.
I have it wall mounted in the Garage & hard wired into the boot.

First job I did when I bought the car.
I was just about to ask if anyone could tell me where there was a 12v+ in the boot so I could wire in my ctek...

Help please.

Thanks

D
You normally run the cable from the battery yourself, extensions are available.

davidd

6,609 posts

301 months

Thursday
quotequote all
Belle427 said:
You normally run the cable from the battery yourself, extensions are available.
I was hoping there would be a handy positive in the boot, will check when I get the car.

waggy

223 posts

250 months

Yesterday (19:30)
quotequote all

All the power in the boot is supplying back lights and boot solenoid, these are via switches so no direct connection to battery.

You can run a lead from the battery terminals via an inline fuse to the boot. cable run can go under carpet left hand side of passenger footwell into the opening for the door solenoids and through over the back wheel arch into the boot. I have done this to connect a gopro microphone to pick up exhaust noise.

good luck

alex