Acceptable Mileage On Used Blob/BugWRX
Discussion
Still on the hunt for an Impreza!
After scanning every available outlet for used Imprezas, I found a few examples that appear to be decent. However, it got me thinking about mileage and how they fare as they age.
What would you consider acceptable mileage for both a bugeye and a hawkeye WRX Impreza? And how much mileage is too much, before you start to encounter real problems?
After scanning every available outlet for used Imprezas, I found a few examples that appear to be decent. However, it got me thinking about mileage and how they fare as they age.
What would you consider acceptable mileage for both a bugeye and a hawkeye WRX Impreza? And how much mileage is too much, before you start to encounter real problems?
worth seeing if engines have been rebuilt already , 2 litres do more miles than 2.5 , the 2.5 i don’t buy them if more than 85k miles or so , crank bearings can go plus head gaskets , the rest of the car is pretty tough , have you not considered an sti model gear boxes are much stronger , it depends on how the engines been looked after and serviced i’ve heard of hg failing early or 60 k plus crank bearings can be good for 130 k plus , some cars running very high mileage on original engines some not , be aware of rust , a common area is offside rear jacking point and sill area
mike74 said:
Regardless of mileage the chance of finding any Uk bug or blob without rotten rear arches, suspension turrets and/or sills is vanishingly small, any that genuinely don't have any rot will be firmly in "future classic investment" territory in terms of price.
I bought a 05 STi with 95K on it and it doesnt have any visible signs of rot and I have removed all of the interior and had it on ramps to check underneath. The reason its lasted so well is it was protected early on in its life so I have one of the previous owners to thank for their foresight. Its also had lots of love on the servicing front. I'm using it daily at the moment and the engine still feels really strong but it takes a while to get going in a morning now its getting cooler. The suspension could probably benefit from a full refresh and I suspect OEM parts will be hard to get. When my Yaris arrives I'm going to tuck it away and use it sparingly which will give me time to get the suspension sorted.lilwashu said:
Newage cars without rusty arches etc. are still fairly easy to find in my experience (blobs more so). As above, buy on history and condition rather than mileage, but remember that when they go above 100K miles they will be much harder to sell on if that's a problem for you.
They are easy to sell after 100k providing you price them accordingly. TEKNOPUG said:
Buy on condition not mileage.
^^^ This 110% ^^^ Avoid a car from a seaside town or Scotland (Sorry!) It will have spent its life in wet conditions and / or salty conditions which usually means hidden rot. Low mileage is not an indicator of a healthy, rot free car. One that has been loved and cared for with big miles is a better option. For example my 2003 WRX Wagon, it's on 170,000 miles but it is immaculate, and mechanically tip top, but most would run away based on the mileage alone!
Look in person before committing. Shiny paint does not mean there isn't a world of pain underneath and hidden!!
Pupbelly said:
Avoid a car from a seaside town or Scotland (Sorry!) It will have spent its life in wet conditions and / or salty conditions which usually means hidden rot.
Owners on the coast and in Scotland are more than capable of looking after their cars.My cars regularly get underside cleaned, underseal and cavity wax applied.
Mileage is only a number, the condition and service file is more important in my view.
thewifescar said:
Pupbelly said:
Avoid a car from a seaside town or Scotland (Sorry!) It will have spent its life in wet conditions and / or salty conditions which usually means hidden rot.
Owners on the coast and in Scotland are more than capable of looking after their cars.My cars regularly get underside cleaned, underseal and cavity wax applied.
Mileage is only a number, the condition and service file is more important in my view.
It was more of a general statement, the more careful owner will indeed look after their car but it is an observation from seeing many heavily corroded cars which look on the surface to be in good shape but underneath suffer badly and suspension components too, spending their life in wet conditions or salty air from being near the coast.
other than rust , high mileage simply means that some bits may wear out , the big problem with rust is finding it as it’s often hidden , a good thorough under sealing helps , living in a dry garage helps , there is a chap who has run central heating in to his garage lol , other bits to wear out are bushes shocks sensors so not that expensive in the big picture , if an engine gearbox or diff needs rebuilding engine being the most likely , yes can be a bit pricy but if you like and want to keep the car it’s worth doing , my fsti went on to 198k in the end , the engine being a 2.5 was rebuilt half way through that mileage , it got broken in the end due to rust on its drivers side rear sill , plus other areas were starting to slightly bubble and a few bits of other damage by another person driving it , the suspension was changed but that was to improve handling , a few drop links done a few bushes all relatively cheap for the mileage but very little went wrong with it , i think scoobies are generally very reliable and long lasting , most cars suffer rust issues , and a lot of cars suffer much more with issues than a scooby
Scooobydont said:
I bought this (07 plate WRX, UK car) just outside Inverness last year, I wouldn't rule out location quite yet...
(but I do know what you mean about it being wet all the time...)
That is mint, but to be fair that is not representative of most cars, its clearly been pampered which is why a thorough inspection underneath is important. Equally lots of black "underseal" does not mean a rust free car. Black stodge can hide a multitude of sins - just be thorough and take a decent inspection light to see up into the suspension turret areas, around the arches where they meet the rear bumper, front edge of rear arch near the cills and the lower A post but that will be hidden behind the arch liner.(but I do know what you mean about it being wet all the time...)
Its a lottery unfortunately, private sales are a gamble, but you will pay a premium for a garage purchase and it will likely have had "preparation" for sale!
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