Please help - the Ignition control unit is just clicking

[thomas.moeller]

Hi,

Just wanted to take the Cerb 4.2 for a spin, but instead of starting the engine the eltronincs on the boot are just clicking (sound). The starter engine is not turning (or making an noises)

I tried a few thing:

• Change the battery
• Power on/off the whole system
• Disconnecting the Ignition control unit

Once, it helped at the engine came to live right away, but when I stopped it I would not start again.

The clicking noise comes both when I push the "Start" and the "Stop" button.

The sound comes from both IgnitionControl Unit and from one on the relays next to the fuses in the boot. (If I remove the relay, the Ignition Control Unit keeps clicking when the button is pushed, but not the other way around it the Control unit is disconnected).

Have any one tried this or have a suggestion how to solve?

[RUSSELLM]

Depends which end you want to start from, but personally, I’d start at the Starter Motor and work back.

If so.... There’s a small (3mm) wire going to the top of the starter motor. There’s a chance it’s corroded/fell off.

If it is connected, when you press the start button (presuming the immobiliser isn’t interrupting the signal) you should get a 12v+ on that wire.

If that isn’t getting there, then you’re most likely going to the immobiliser.

Edited by RUSSELLM on Wednesday 24th June 18:49

[thomas.moeller]

Thanks, for the reply/suggestion. Checked, the Starter, and it is fine. Could it be anything other than the Ignition Control Unit?

[RUSSELLM]

Yes.

The immobiliser is prone to failing, especially on the starter motor output.

[Shanksy87]

If you don't hear the fuel pump prime I would also suggest a failed immobiliser, it is a known issue.

You can get direct replacements that have the fuel pump and starter circuits swapped so the starter has the higher current rated circuit as they wired them the other way from the factory (because TVR). The only slight downside is you then cannot disarm using the remote, you have to use the wand/usb thing.

[thomas.moeller]

Hi, just came back from holiday and the problem did not disappear by it self as I hoped for

The fuwl pump start when the start-button is pressed and I tested the starter (it works fine).

I try to reachout to Carl Baker as he comes highly recommended, but he does not respond. Are there anyone else anyone can recommend? (I live abroad).

Is there a way that I can test if the problem is the immobiliser?

[Byker28i]

HF Solutions did my imobiliser last time http://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/
They came to my house and did it...

[nawarne]

Byker28i said:

HF Solutions did my imobiliser last time http://www.hf-solutions.co.uk/
They came to my house and did it...

Hi Thomas,

David Fairclough at HF Solutions is the current UK based Meta/TVR alarm specialist.
He usually responds to a 'phone call or text and is happy to "talk you through" some checks and options.

Carl Baker now lives in France, but does come over to the UK 2 or 3 times a year when he has sufficient work to justify the travel. If you want Carl, then an email is probably the best contact for him.

Nick

[thomas.moeller]

Thanks Nick,

I will give HF Solutions a try, as I emailed, texted and Whatsapped TVRUK without any responce (maybe carl is on holiday???)

[thomas.moeller]

I have been in contact with Dave from HF Solutions, and he was very helpfull. After a few test, we could conclude that it was NOT the immobiliser causing the problem.

Recap of problem:
- I can turn on the ignition (getting light in the dashboard) pressing either the "On/Starter" or the "Off" button.
- "Flicking" the ignition turns on/off really quick (and clicking noises from the relays) still occurs when either the "on" or "off" button is pressed"
- The "clicking"sound comes from both the relays Ignition Control Unit and from one on of the relays next to the fuses in the boot. (If I remove the relay in the boot, then the Ignition Control Unit ralay keeps "clicking" when the buttons are pushed, but not the other way around if the Control unit box is disconnected).
- The starter is still not activated (I did test the starter motor again and it is working).

Bonus info:
Before the car totally refused to start, it seemed like the system became slower and slower. In the end, I sometime had to keep the starter button presset for more than 30sec before the startermotor was activated. I recently stalled the car doing a 3-point turn in the middle of the street, and it felt like an eternity sitting pressing the starter button, before the starter motor finally was activated and the engine started, so I could move the car "parked" accross the road.

All the above may indicate a problem with the control box. Do anyone have any other suggestion?

Is there a way I can test the Control Unit Box without replacing the control unit box?

[tofts]

Dave is indeed your alarm guru, but for general electrical issues and "black boxes" speak to Jody at Python Racing- they repair electronics for these cars for most of guys out there, and check the unit for free. Give him a call and he will be able to help you out/advise on a solution.

Edited by tofts on Thursday 23 July 13:26

Edited by tofts on Thursday 23 July 13:30

[Imran999]

A 3 point turn? Either your streets are incredibly wide, or I’m doing something very wrong.

Sorry, couldn’t resist.

As someone who runs a Cerb in a country that has no TVR expertise, I feel your pain - but unfortunately, I’m not much help here :-(

Hope you get it resolved.

[O mage]

thomas.moeller said:

I have been in contact with Dave from HF Solutions, and he was very helpfull. After a few test, we could conclude that it was NOT the immobiliser causing the problem.

Recap of problem:
- I can turn on the ignition (getting light in the dashboard) pressing either the "On/Starter" or the "Off" button.
- "Flicking" the ignition turns on/off really quick (and clicking noises from the relays) still occurs when either the "on" or "off" button is pressed"
- The "clicking"sound comes from both the relays Ignition Control Unit and from one on of the relays next to the fuses in the boot. (If I remove the relay in the boot, then the Ignition Control Unit ralay keeps "clicking" when the buttons are pushed, but not the other way around if the Control unit box is disconnected).
- The starter is still not activated (I did test the starter motor again and it is working).

Bonus info:
Before the car totally refused to start, it seemed like the system became slower and slower. In the end, I sometime had to keep the starter button presset for more than 30sec before the startermotor was activated. I recently stalled the car doing a 3-point turn in the middle of the street, and it felt like an eternity sitting pressing the starter button, before the starter motor finally was activated and the engine started, so I could move the car "parked" accross the road.

All the above may indicate a problem with the control box. Do anyone have any other suggestion?

Is there a way I can test the Control Unit Box without replacing the control unit box?

Could be an earth problem somewhere if its not the boxes. Have you a good earth to the engine?

[RUSSELLM]

Holding your finger on the starter button for 30 seconds, is indicative of a knackered immobiliser, from my experience.

If it helps, a recent discussion where we discussed the exact opposite to your fault.

But basically, you’ll have to work your way along it, starter button to ignition module, Ignition module to immobiliser, immobiliser to starter relay (where ever that is), starter relay to starter solenoid.

Personally, I’d head for the middle (immobiliser)

Edit.... Here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Edited by RUSSELLM on Thursday 23 July 18:58

[Penelope Stopit]

Are you ok at working through diagrams?

[thomas.moeller]

RUSSELLM said:

Holding your finger on the starter button for 30 seconds, is indicative of a knackered immobiliser, from my experience.

If it helps, a recent discussion where we discussed the exact opposite to your fault.

But basically, you’ll have to work your way along it, starter button to ignition module, Ignition module to immobiliser, immobiliser to starter relay (where ever that is), starter relay to starter solenoid.

Personally, I’d head for the middle (immobiliser)

Edit.... Here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Edited by RUSSELLM on Thursday 23 July 18:58

Thanks, for the advise. I already checked the immobiliser, and that is not the issue. I assumed that the relays in the control unit box were for the starter motor, but may be that is wrong. Do any one know where the starter motor relay is located?

[thomas.moeller]

Penelope Stopit said:

Are you ok at working through diagrams?

Yes, working through diagrams is fine.

Finding the wires and connetors on the car is something different

[RUSSELLM]

thomas.moeller said:

RUSSELLM said:

Holding your finger on the starter button for 30 seconds, is indicative of a knackered immobiliser, from my experience.

If it helps, a recent discussion where we discussed the exact opposite to your fault.

But basically, you’ll have to work your way along it, starter button to ignition module, Ignition module to immobiliser, immobiliser to starter relay (where ever that is), starter relay to starter solenoid.

Personally, I’d head for the middle (immobiliser)

Edit.... Here https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

Edited by RUSSELLM on Thursday 23 July 18:58

Thanks, for the advise. I already checked the immobiliser, and that is not the issue. I assumed that the relays in the control unit box were for the starter motor, but may be that is wrong. Do any one know where the starter motor relay is located?

Ok.

I take it from that, that when you press the start button, you’re not getting the switched 12v+ to the immobiliser ?

Edited by RUSSELLM on Friday 24th July 08:48

[thomas.moeller]

RUSSELLM said:

Ok.

I take it from that, that when you press the start button, you’re not getting the switched 12v+ to the immobiliser ?

Edited by RUSSELLM on Friday 24th July 08:48

I'm not sorry, what wire on the immobiliser you are refering to? Is it the "Green 15/30 " in position 1 or the "Red 30+" in position 2?

[notaping]

If you haven't already looked here - you'll find all the wiring diagrams at http://tvr-cerbera.co.uk/wiringdiagrams.html

The one you're interested in is CEPD003C Rear Harness Part 1.jpg. Up at the top left you'll find the Ignition ECU. Check the signal on 'Starter Drive' (W/R) when you press the start button. If you get a signal, then that ECU's ok. Move on to the Immobiliser ECU. W/R in - check the signal's ok there. W/R out - check the signal's ok there. Move on to the fuse box and the starter relay - CEPDF81A Fusebox.jpg

Unfortunately there are no shortcuts in something like this. Just methodically plodding through it. However, as a guess I'd say the timing circuit in the Ignition ECU is suspect. If the capacitor in the timing circuit has failed - the delay would get longer as the capacitor was failing and finally give up the ghost altogether. You've indicated the start delay got longer before it finally stopped working. Open up the Ignition ECU and look for any suspect capacitors.

Good luck :-)