Does the Meta system know if the siren is disconnected?
Discussion
I've got a 2000 Chimaera.
Over the last few days the (Meta) alarm had started to play up whereby the siren would sound for a bit and then go off. On the first 2 occasions a simple fob alarm off/on fixed the problem. On the 3rd, late in the evening it didn't respond and I disconnected the battery terminals and went back indoors to sulk.
I researched PH and found that the siren can cause problems and people have simply disconnected the cable coming out of it and left it disconnected and all was well.
I've done that, connected up the battery (which is on a CTEK all the time ) and all looks good but the immobiliser won't go off and allow the fuel pump to prime.
So far I have swapped over the two brown relays but no difference.
So, does the Meta 'know' that the siren is disconnected and so is not allowing the car to start?
Over the last few days the (Meta) alarm had started to play up whereby the siren would sound for a bit and then go off. On the first 2 occasions a simple fob alarm off/on fixed the problem. On the 3rd, late in the evening it didn't respond and I disconnected the battery terminals and went back indoors to sulk.
I researched PH and found that the siren can cause problems and people have simply disconnected the cable coming out of it and left it disconnected and all was well.
I've done that, connected up the battery (which is on a CTEK all the time ) and all looks good but the immobiliser won't go off and allow the fuel pump to prime.
So far I have swapped over the two brown relays but no difference.
So, does the Meta 'know' that the siren is disconnected and so is not allowing the car to start?
Very much doubt that the Meta has siren sensing, but you could connect it back up to prove that this is the case
Never have witnessed oldish add-on alarms that have siren sensing, have had dealings with several
It's possible that the immobiliser has started playing up due to the disconnecting of the battery
Never have witnessed oldish add-on alarms that have siren sensing, have had dealings with several
It's possible that the immobiliser has started playing up due to the disconnecting of the battery
Simple answer is no, it doesn't. I ran mine for a while with the siren disconnected because its internal battery was shot, didn't make any difference to the immobiliser operation or central locking etc.
Sounds like your immobiliser is on its way out.
Dave Fairclough at H.F. Solutions is the guy to talk to
Sounds like your immobiliser is on its way out.
Dave Fairclough at H.F. Solutions is the guy to talk to
Well, here's a funny thing. I thought I'd disconnect the battery again, leave it a few minutes, and reconnect. No joy.
So I then thought I'd get the spare key and fob and give that a go (have read that low battery in the fob can cause strange effects. No joy.
Then, just playing around, I tried the press-in jobbie on the steering column (bearing in mind I've never had to use these things (called Dallas keys apparently). The first one didn't do anything. The second one made the led go out and I was able to start the car!
That's excellent as it proves that all the gubbins works, after a fashion.
Had a chat with Dave from HF Solutions who will come out to me if required, but has suggested I give the car battery a proper charge rather than a trickle and see if that makes any difference. I think a new battery may be in order anyway as I've no idea how old it is and it may have been what was causing the random alarms in the first place, come to think of it.
So I then thought I'd get the spare key and fob and give that a go (have read that low battery in the fob can cause strange effects. No joy.
Then, just playing around, I tried the press-in jobbie on the steering column (bearing in mind I've never had to use these things (called Dallas keys apparently). The first one didn't do anything. The second one made the led go out and I was able to start the car!
That's excellent as it proves that all the gubbins works, after a fashion.
Had a chat with Dave from HF Solutions who will come out to me if required, but has suggested I give the car battery a proper charge rather than a trickle and see if that makes any difference. I think a new battery may be in order anyway as I've no idea how old it is and it may have been what was causing the random alarms in the first place, come to think of it.
The Meta system is dreadful, and was made even worse by the way TVR wired it, basically TVR wired it incorrectly which significantly decreases the starting reliability of the car. Its also now likely to be well over 20 years old so you really should be thinking about replacement, if you're not in a financial position to replace the system with something new and of a superior design why not simply bypass the damn thing?
You can bypass the Meta system for pennies and even if you include removing the dash the job should take no longer than an hour or so, then just fit a hidden latching switch to act as a manual immobiliser and it's job done... For ever! If you need help just PM me, five years ago I wrote a step by step guide (with images & wiring diagrams) to help anyone bypass their TVR Meta system, these simple instructions have been used by literally hundreds of TVR owners now (and quite a few so called TVR specialists) to solve all the infuriating Meta problems for pretty much no money.
Clearly a new system correctly wired is best, however a bypass with hidden immobilser switch runs it a pretty close second, and the difference will be as much as £600 saved
Dave
You can bypass the Meta system for pennies and even if you include removing the dash the job should take no longer than an hour or so, then just fit a hidden latching switch to act as a manual immobiliser and it's job done... For ever! If you need help just PM me, five years ago I wrote a step by step guide (with images & wiring diagrams) to help anyone bypass their TVR Meta system, these simple instructions have been used by literally hundreds of TVR owners now (and quite a few so called TVR specialists) to solve all the infuriating Meta problems for pretty much no money.
Clearly a new system correctly wired is best, however a bypass with hidden immobilser switch runs it a pretty close second, and the difference will be as much as £600 saved
Dave
ChimpOnGas said:
The Meta system is dreadful, and was made even worse by the way TVR wired it, basically TVR wired it incorrectly which significantly decreases the starting reliability of the car. Its also now likely to be well over 20 years old so you really should be thinking about replacement, if you're not in a financial position to replace the system with something new and of a superior design why not simply bypass the damn thing?
You can bypass the Meta system for pennies and even if you include removing the dash the job should take no longer than an hour or so, then just fit a hidden latching switch to act as a manual immobiliser and it's job done... For ever! If you need help just PM me, five years ago I wrote a step by step guide (with images & wiring diagrams) to help anyone bypass their TVR Meta system, these simple instructions have been used by literally hundreds of TVR owners now (and quite a few so called TVR specialists) to solve all the infuriating Meta problems for pretty much no money.
Clearly a new system correctly wired is best, however a bypass with hidden immobilser switch runs it a pretty close second, and the difference will be as much as £600 saved
Dave
Thanks Dave. It would be a useful thing to have and I've come across your instructions while researching. But I'm a total numpty with electrics unfortunately.You can bypass the Meta system for pennies and even if you include removing the dash the job should take no longer than an hour or so, then just fit a hidden latching switch to act as a manual immobiliser and it's job done... For ever! If you need help just PM me, five years ago I wrote a step by step guide (with images & wiring diagrams) to help anyone bypass their TVR Meta system, these simple instructions have been used by literally hundreds of TVR owners now (and quite a few so called TVR specialists) to solve all the infuriating Meta problems for pretty much no money.
Clearly a new system correctly wired is best, however a bypass with hidden immobilser switch runs it a pretty close second, and the difference will be as much as £600 saved
Dave
The alarm was replaced by Fernhurst about 4 years ago but I don't know if that neccessarily included a new immobiliser too. I would think it must.
Anyway I'm probably going to shell out for a PC1500 that you recommend. You are absolutely sure it fits in the standard Chim box?
Those extra terminal things on the front face of the battery look like they might foul the box - are they removable?
The side terminals on the PC 1500 are not removable. They are, however, useful for connecting extra things.
This battery definitely fits in the Griff battery box, which is probably the same as the Chimera box.
If you go onto the Odyssey website it has full specifications, including dimensions, for all their batteries including the PC1500. Have a check and then measure the battery box on your car if you want to be sure.
This battery definitely fits in the Griff battery box, which is probably the same as the Chimera box.
If you go onto the Odyssey website it has full specifications, including dimensions, for all their batteries including the PC1500. Have a check and then measure the battery box on your car if you want to be sure.
swisstoni said:
Thanks Dave. It would be a useful thing to have and I've come across your instructions while researching. But I'm a total numpty with electrics unfortunately.
The alarm was replaced by Fernhurst about 4 years ago but I don't know if that neccessarily included a new immobiliser too. I would think it must.
Anyway I'm probably going to shell out for a PC1500 that you recommend. You are absolutely sure it fits in the standard Chim box?
Those extra terminal things on the front face of the battery look like they might foul the box - are they removable?
SNUG AS A BUG IN A RUG.The alarm was replaced by Fernhurst about 4 years ago but I don't know if that neccessarily included a new immobiliser too. I would think it must.
Anyway I'm probably going to shell out for a PC1500 that you recommend. You are absolutely sure it fits in the standard Chim box?
Those extra terminal things on the front face of the battery look like they might foul the box - are they removable?
Just cut slots for the front terminals as below.
ODYSSEY PC1500 specs.....
Length: 275.6 mm
Width: 171.7 mm
Height: 198.6 mm
Weight: 22.4 kg
Making it a perfect fit in the standard battery box
Pulse Hot Cranking Amps: 1500 (For 5 seconds)
Cold Cranking Amps: 850
Hot Cranking Amps: 1250
Marine Cranking Amps: 1050
However, personally I'd just ditch the stupid TVR battery box and replace it with a good quality plastic battery tray with a clamping bar. these are strong and do not corrode which is why they're typically used on boats, but they're ideal for your TVR too..
Bolt securely to the floor and the craaaapy TVR battery box can be disposed of or used as your garage bin, just make sure you get your sizing right and battery removal will be much easier than the original TVR fiberglass box with its ridiculous captive nuts that break free and spin under the battery where you can't get to them
My PC1500 is 8 years young now, so its barely out of puberty, I'm expecting a good 20 years service out of it. Odyssey batteries, especially a proper full sized one like the PC1500, gives you insane cranking power, supreme deep discharge resistance and recharge cycle capacity, and it'll last up to four times longer.
Roughly three times the price though
Well I thought I’d tie this one up with an update.
They say a picture tells a thousand words so, say cheese
Must have found a wire that disagreed with it.
Thanks to Dave of HF Solutions for helping me out today.
New immob fitted and working Dallas keys.
More work needed, I think a new siren, but I’m confident the car has been checked out and is ok to use.
They say a picture tells a thousand words so, say cheese
Must have found a wire that disagreed with it.
Thanks to Dave of HF Solutions for helping me out today.
New immob fitted and working Dallas keys.
More work needed, I think a new siren, but I’m confident the car has been checked out and is ok to use.
Hi,
I know its an old post. But I have a pressing issue with my siren sounding permanently. The car is a Griffith 500 from 1995 and is guess the alarm system is Meta. However, as a new member I can not send PM to anyone for 2 weeks. I have used the forum extensively over the years, using the search function.
I had my car for 10 years. Last year the alarm went on permanently and I cleaned the door contacts. Everything has been fine since - until yesterday. Cleaning the door contact does not help. I think I need to disable or replace the system (lots of input on PH on that). On an more urgent basis I need to disable the alarm. But I am unable to PM anybody for instructions on that.
Anyone that can PM me on this topic pls.
Thanks
Michael
I know its an old post. But I have a pressing issue with my siren sounding permanently. The car is a Griffith 500 from 1995 and is guess the alarm system is Meta. However, as a new member I can not send PM to anyone for 2 weeks. I have used the forum extensively over the years, using the search function.
I had my car for 10 years. Last year the alarm went on permanently and I cleaned the door contacts. Everything has been fine since - until yesterday. Cleaning the door contact does not help. I think I need to disable or replace the system (lots of input on PH on that). On an more urgent basis I need to disable the alarm. But I am unable to PM anybody for instructions on that.
Anyone that can PM me on this topic pls.
Thanks
Michael
PM/email sent.
Just thinking though - when the battery on mine discharged (due to a drain that I found), the alarm went on constantly. It sounded like a dying seal but wouldn't stop until I disconnected the battery and connected a charger - had to borrow one from a neighbour since I'd only had the car a month and didn't have all the kit I do now!
That was difficult since the doors were locked and wouldn't unlock due to the battery being too low, a steep learning curve that day...
Just thinking though - when the battery on mine discharged (due to a drain that I found), the alarm went on constantly. It sounded like a dying seal but wouldn't stop until I disconnected the battery and connected a charger - had to borrow one from a neighbour since I'd only had the car a month and didn't have all the kit I do now!
That was difficult since the doors were locked and wouldn't unlock due to the battery being too low, a steep learning curve that day...
Edited by PabloGee on Tuesday 12th August 09:58
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