Clutch Alignment tool - Which is the best?
Discussion
There are universal kits that help with clutch alignment. Most big stores/tool suppliers should be able to help with this. The kits include a number of adaptors.
Boosted.
Oh and if an adaptor is a tad small then wrap some tape around it
>> Edited by Boosted LS1 on Saturday 18th June 23:08
Boosted.
Oh and if an adaptor is a tad small then wrap some tape around it
>> Edited by Boosted LS1 on Saturday 18th June 23:08
I've heard of folk eyeballing it and putting the gearbox on with the clutch plate not fully tightened to get it spot on then tightening the bolts through the holes in the gearbox casing.
Don't use a Halfords elcheapo alignment tool that I've had for years. I'm sure mine sagged a bit due to the weight of the clutch and I spent ages longer than I should have putting the gearbox on. An old input shaft is defintely a good one...if you can find one for a G50!
Don't use a Halfords elcheapo alignment tool that I've had for years. I'm sure mine sagged a bit due to the weight of the clutch and I spent ages longer than I should have putting the gearbox on. An old input shaft is defintely a good one...if you can find one for a G50!
Cheers guys........
I've jest got back from Father's Day stuff and managed to pic up a Draper tool.
Gary, Wish I'd seen your post first!! Thanks for the offer of the loan. I think you live fairly close to a mate of mine as he is always telling me about a yellow (and red) Ultima they see going through the village.
Fingers crossed, my box could be in tonight
Michael
I've jest got back from Father's Day stuff and managed to pic up a Draper tool.
Gary, Wish I'd seen your post first!! Thanks for the offer of the loan. I think you live fairly close to a mate of mine as he is always telling me about a yellow (and red) Ultima they see going through the village.
Fingers crossed, my box could be in tonight
Michael
15mm copper water pipe with the correct amount of gaffer tape wrapped around it worked fine for me. Make the pipe long enough that you can put an engineers or carpenters square across the back of the pressure plate to see that the pipe is square, and remains so, when the bolts are tightened.
Steve
Steve
Mike
2 inches seems too big to be caused by misalignment of bearing and shaft. (Unless its way, way off and Im sure it isnt) The shaft slides into the bearing by much less than 2 inches.
I'm assuming the clutch and flywheel has been assembled correctly.
My guess is that its the release bearing/fork fingers thats not mating properly. Its a string or rubber band job to ensure this is ok and then the release fork bearings/shaft is fitted after mating up.
Also, (and Im pretty sure this is not it) is the bearing tube sliding into the release bearing? Sometimes the tube must have been changed to the smaller diameter for the later release bearing. Depends on origin of box.
Both these possibles would give inches. I could make an evening to help, but Im not your nearest and this weekend is FoS.
Phil
2 inches seems too big to be caused by misalignment of bearing and shaft. (Unless its way, way off and Im sure it isnt) The shaft slides into the bearing by much less than 2 inches.
I'm assuming the clutch and flywheel has been assembled correctly.
My guess is that its the release bearing/fork fingers thats not mating properly. Its a string or rubber band job to ensure this is ok and then the release fork bearings/shaft is fitted after mating up.
Also, (and Im pretty sure this is not it) is the bearing tube sliding into the release bearing? Sometimes the tube must have been changed to the smaller diameter for the later release bearing. Depends on origin of box.
Both these possibles would give inches. I could make an evening to help, but Im not your nearest and this weekend is FoS.
Phil
Phil,
I really can't see what's stopping it going in, I'm sure it's not even touching the spigot bearing as it seems to far our (I might be wrong).
I've even removed the clutch/clutch housing and started again (twice) as well as trial fit the clutch onto the gearbox spline.
I think I'll try trial fitting the whole units onto the spline next.
BTW thanks for the offer of help, hopefully I won't have to call upon this.
Michael
I really can't see what's stopping it going in, I'm sure it's not even touching the spigot bearing as it seems to far our (I might be wrong).
I've even removed the clutch/clutch housing and started again (twice) as well as trial fit the clutch onto the gearbox spline.
I think I'll try trial fitting the whole units onto the spline next.
BTW thanks for the offer of help, hopefully I won't have to call upon this.
Michael
mclark said:
....I think I'll try trial fitting the whole units onto the spline next......
Trial fit box to adaptor with no clutch assy.
Trial fit clutch to spline.
Trial fit pressure plate over gearbox spigot around the input shaft. I believe I remember talk of these being different sizes.
Steve
Mark,
I had exactly the same problem... Mine would hang about 2" from being fully seated. After much head scratching, jiggling, cussing, pushing, more cussing, here is what I found:
The clutch alignment tool I had came with the clutch kit, so I knew it should work. I put some grease on the tool so I could see where it was hanging. I was convinced that it was the spigot bearing, but in the end it wasn't. Out of sheer lack of anything else to try, I angled the alignment tool upward a bit (obviously raising the clutch plate up more) and tightened the bolts... it slid home perfectly. I raised it approx 1/16 - 1/8 higher than I THOUGHT it should have been, according to my calibrated eyeball...
This may not be the same problem you are having, but it takes 10 minutes to try it. As mentioned, it could be the pilot bearing hanging somewhere (mine didn't, and never caused me any problems), You could measure the ID of the spigot bearing and the OD of the input shaft to satisfy yourself that it will fit as well. Unless the bearing was deformed when installed, I doubt this would be the issue. While you are looking at the spigot bearing, I would double check that it was installed the right way around. The bearing needles meet the race on one side and have a spacer on the other. If memory serves, the end that the needle bearings meet the race goes to the front of the car. I believe this places the bearing part numbers and markings to the engine side.
Also, I know a few people have had problems with the starter ring hitting the bell housing (which requires some shaving of the bellhousing) I think this is the exception rather than the rule.
This was one of the most frustrating parts of the build for me. Getting the engine to align with the transaxle was a pain.
I hope that helps some... When you want to throw the adjustable wrench thru the garage door, remember that patience is a virtue! :-D
Allen
I had exactly the same problem... Mine would hang about 2" from being fully seated. After much head scratching, jiggling, cussing, pushing, more cussing, here is what I found:
The clutch alignment tool I had came with the clutch kit, so I knew it should work. I put some grease on the tool so I could see where it was hanging. I was convinced that it was the spigot bearing, but in the end it wasn't. Out of sheer lack of anything else to try, I angled the alignment tool upward a bit (obviously raising the clutch plate up more) and tightened the bolts... it slid home perfectly. I raised it approx 1/16 - 1/8 higher than I THOUGHT it should have been, according to my calibrated eyeball...
This may not be the same problem you are having, but it takes 10 minutes to try it. As mentioned, it could be the pilot bearing hanging somewhere (mine didn't, and never caused me any problems), You could measure the ID of the spigot bearing and the OD of the input shaft to satisfy yourself that it will fit as well. Unless the bearing was deformed when installed, I doubt this would be the issue. While you are looking at the spigot bearing, I would double check that it was installed the right way around. The bearing needles meet the race on one side and have a spacer on the other. If memory serves, the end that the needle bearings meet the race goes to the front of the car. I believe this places the bearing part numbers and markings to the engine side.
Also, I know a few people have had problems with the starter ring hitting the bell housing (which requires some shaving of the bellhousing) I think this is the exception rather than the rule.
This was one of the most frustrating parts of the build for me. Getting the engine to align with the transaxle was a pain.
I hope that helps some... When you want to throw the adjustable wrench thru the garage door, remember that patience is a virtue! :-D
Allen
Thanks guys for all your help.
The update so far.......
Checked bearing tube and thankfully thats ok
Loosened clutch plate and managed to get box on with about 10mm to go.
Removed clutch and tried gearbox, bingo!!
So it's definately the clutch alignment. I will continue trying tonight.
Cheers
Michael
The update so far.......
Checked bearing tube and thankfully thats ok
Loosened clutch plate and managed to get box on with about 10mm to go.
Removed clutch and tried gearbox, bingo!!
So it's definately the clutch alignment. I will continue trying tonight.
Cheers
Michael
gtr-gaz said:mind that you don't damage the pilot bearing on the flywheel end. This can be either pushed through or damaged by the shaft if its not in straight. If this happens then the main shaft will move under load and damage the inner gbox seal. Then the oil comes out! You don't know you have the problem until you see the oil. This happened to me and paul buckthorpe. Its a real pain so suggest you get a good clutch tool, or old shaft as suggested but anyway don't force the shaft in. Hope this helps!
Hi Gary,
I've tried my tool and the gearbox still won't fit. If it's still ok can I borrow your alignment tool?
I'll email directly.
Cheers
Michael
Just let me know when.
It's only a cheapo one though, but it did the job for me.
Gary
gtr-gaz said:mind that you don't damage the pilot bearing on the flywheel end. This can be either pushed through or damaged by the shaft if its not in straight. If this happens then the main shaft will move under load and damage the inner gbox seal. Then the oil comes out! You don't know you have the problem until you see the oil. This happened to me and paul buckthorpe. Its a real pain so suggest you get a good clutch tool, or old shaft as suggested but anyway don't force the shaft in. Hope this helps!
Hi Gary,
I've tried my tool and the gearbox still won't fit. If it's still ok can I borrow your alignment tool?
I'll email directly.
Cheers
Michael
Just let me know when.
It's only a cheapo one though, but it did the job for me.
Gary
Right, had my final attempt at fitting the box tonight!!
And I'm sad to say IT DIDN'T FIT
Had everything lined up but it just wouldn't go. On the last go I got it within a nats chuff of sitting flush to the adapter plate but it just didn't go the last leg.
Last option, pay someone to do it.
And I'm sad to say IT DIDN'T FIT
Had everything lined up but it just wouldn't go. On the last go I got it within a nats chuff of sitting flush to the adapter plate but it just didn't go the last leg.
Last option, pay someone to do it.
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