Condensation vs Nuaire Drimaster
Discussion
I live in a largish 1960 bungalow, it has cavity wall insulation and new aluminium double glazing.
For as long as I've know the house has suffered with condensation resulting in wet windows, cills and black spot mould, enough is enough !
We use tumble drier, so don't dry clothes on an airer. I know the ensuite needs a extractor and that's my first job.
But I've been looking into the nuaire Drimaster PIV, Amazon reviews suggest it will sort my issues.
Any one have one fitted and can comment, I really want to get on a decorate but need this sorted to enable me
For as long as I've know the house has suffered with condensation resulting in wet windows, cills and black spot mould, enough is enough !
We use tumble drier, so don't dry clothes on an airer. I know the ensuite needs a extractor and that's my first job.
But I've been looking into the nuaire Drimaster PIV, Amazon reviews suggest it will sort my issues.
Any one have one fitted and can comment, I really want to get on a decorate but need this sorted to enable me
675 Gaz said:
I live in a largish 1960 bungalow, it has cavity wall insulation and new aluminium double glazing.
For as long as I've know the house has suffered with condensation resulting in wet windows, cills and black spot mould, enough is enough !
We use tumble drier, so don't dry clothes on an airer. I know the ensuite needs a extractor and that's my first job.
But I've been looking into the nuaire Drimaster PIV, Amazon reviews suggest it will sort my issues.
Any one have one fitted and can comment, I really want to get on a decorate but need this sorted to enable me
I've installed Drimasters in 6 different properties now, they've completely removed condensation in all within 2 days of being switched on. The only problem I can see with them is that it makes the room/landing/hallway they're in cold. You could buy the heated version but that's going to be a lot more to run.For as long as I've know the house has suffered with condensation resulting in wet windows, cills and black spot mould, enough is enough !
We use tumble drier, so don't dry clothes on an airer. I know the ensuite needs a extractor and that's my first job.
But I've been looking into the nuaire Drimaster PIV, Amazon reviews suggest it will sort my issues.
Any one have one fitted and can comment, I really want to get on a decorate but need this sorted to enable me
craig1912 said:
Yep- had one for 5+ years and it sorted the condensation almost overnight. Totally silent in operation and it’s a fit and forget (although the filters probably need changing now.
This. We had major condensation problems in our 1986 house since we moved in 7 years ago. We have no idea why. After a lot of research we installed a Drimaster and it banished the problems after a couple of days and they have never returned.As mentioned, you can get a slight cold draft in winter, but it beats using a Karcher window vac every day
FRG0 said:
The only problem I can see with them is that it makes the room/landing/hallway they're in cold. You could buy the heated version but that's going to be a lot more to run.
It does make the landing slightly cooler- not massively and given the heat from downstairs rises, you can barely notice it.Sounds like a resounding yes then, the worst area is our dressing room directly off our bedroom where we sleep.
I've taken to sleeping with the window open a bit and it does make a difference but when I work nights I'd rather not with my wife being alone in a bungalow.
I'm going to order one now, don't imagine the heated version makes a massive difference so I'll save the extra cost and put it towards heating.
I've taken to sleeping with the window open a bit and it does make a difference but when I work nights I'd rather not with my wife being alone in a bungalow.
I'm going to order one now, don't imagine the heated version makes a massive difference so I'll save the extra cost and put it towards heating.
The last one I installed was a new design (blue in colour, not green as before) which now has the speed control on the outlet cowl, saves going back into the loft if you find it's too much/not enough. It's in a 70's cavity wall bungalow approx 100m² and only runs on speed setting 2 of 6.
There's a cutout template for the ceiling that comes with the unit as isn't a simple circle now due to the controls. I couldn't find it anywhere so had to fashion something up, only when clearing the boxes away did I realise that the template is the lid of one off the boxes.
There's a cutout template for the ceiling that comes with the unit as isn't a simple circle now due to the controls. I couldn't find it anywhere so had to fashion something up, only when clearing the boxes away did I realise that the template is the lid of one off the boxes.
had our drimaster eco for nearly 4 years now, brilliant things they are.
our house never sees north of 70% rh anymore.
what i did was fit it on a wifi timer plug,
our shedules are
mon-fri
11pm-6am and 11am-3:30pm
sat-sunday (in all day) 11pm-6am
basically works opposite to our heating times.
some say not having them on permanently can cause condensation in the pcb and short the unit but i think that was the older model, the new dri master eco"s must have sealed pcbs as ive not had 1 ounce of bother with mine.
p,s fit yourself, its a doddle.
pps, if you close bedroom doors etc then you will need to trim 20mm off the bottom to allow air to pass, also if you have a certain problem room then retro fitting window vents will direct the fresh air into that room better (path of least resistance etc)
also nuaire are a brilliant company with regards to support, think the warranty is 1 year parts and labour but 6 years parts.
heres a good video outlining the basics
https://youtu.be/GmZ_PB6JLqE
our house never sees north of 70% rh anymore.
what i did was fit it on a wifi timer plug,
our shedules are
mon-fri
11pm-6am and 11am-3:30pm
sat-sunday (in all day) 11pm-6am
basically works opposite to our heating times.
some say not having them on permanently can cause condensation in the pcb and short the unit but i think that was the older model, the new dri master eco"s must have sealed pcbs as ive not had 1 ounce of bother with mine.
p,s fit yourself, its a doddle.
pps, if you close bedroom doors etc then you will need to trim 20mm off the bottom to allow air to pass, also if you have a certain problem room then retro fitting window vents will direct the fresh air into that room better (path of least resistance etc)
also nuaire are a brilliant company with regards to support, think the warranty is 1 year parts and labour but 6 years parts.
heres a good video outlining the basics
https://youtu.be/GmZ_PB6JLqE
Edited by shady lee on Wednesday 8th January 16:53
GT89 said:
I've taken to sleeping with the window open a bit and it does make a difference...
I find if there's little wind then all opening the window seems to do is make glass colder on the inside, so the condensation is just as bad - not so much on the opened window itself, but on the rest of the glass.shady lee said:
had our drimaster eco for nearly 4 years now, brilliant things they are.
our house never sees north of 70% rh anymore.
what i did was fit it on a wifi timer plug,
our shedules are
mon-fri
11pm-6am and 11am-3:30pm
sat-sunday (in all day) 11pm-6am
basically works opposite to our heating times.
some say not having them on permanently can cause condensation in the pcb and short the unit but i think that was the older model, the new dri master eco"s must have sealed pcbs as ive not had 1 ounce of bother with mine.
p,s fit yourself, its a doddle.
pps, if you close bedroom doors etc then you will need to trim 20mm off the bottom to allow air to pass, also if you have a certain problem room then retro fitting window vents will direct the fresh air into that room better (path of least resistance etc)
also nuaire are a brilliant company with regards to support, think the warranty is 1 year parts and labour but 6 years parts.
heres a good video outlining the basics
https://youtu.be/GmZ_PB6JLqE
Ours is on all the time as it makes no difference to cost.our house never sees north of 70% rh anymore.
what i did was fit it on a wifi timer plug,
our shedules are
mon-fri
11pm-6am and 11am-3:30pm
sat-sunday (in all day) 11pm-6am
basically works opposite to our heating times.
some say not having them on permanently can cause condensation in the pcb and short the unit but i think that was the older model, the new dri master eco"s must have sealed pcbs as ive not had 1 ounce of bother with mine.
p,s fit yourself, its a doddle.
pps, if you close bedroom doors etc then you will need to trim 20mm off the bottom to allow air to pass, also if you have a certain problem room then retro fitting window vents will direct the fresh air into that room better (path of least resistance etc)
also nuaire are a brilliant company with regards to support, think the warranty is 1 year parts and labour but 6 years parts.
heres a good video outlining the basics
https://youtu.be/GmZ_PB6JLqE
Edited by shady lee on Wednesday 8th January 16:53
The only thing I wouldn’t agree with is cutting 20mm off your doors. There is enough gap on most doors for it to work even when the doors are closed
craig1912 said:
Ours is on all the time as it makes no difference to cost.
The only thing I wouldn’t agree with is cutting 20mm off your doors. There is enough gap on most doors for it to work even when the doors are closed
We only run ours on the schedule during winter as my wife moans abit, rest of the year it's on permanent too.The only thing I wouldn’t agree with is cutting 20mm off your doors. There is enough gap on most doors for it to work even when the doors are closed
Maybe 20mm is alot, I think if your door is hard up to carpet the it will need a skim.
Or leave the door slightly open.
I wouldn't bother personally with the heated model either.
I have fitted several different versions to properties over the years. I have found Nuaire pretty good to deal with in terms of parts backup and tech support.
Had problems for years in a place I rented out, around this time of the year ever year the tenants would get in touch about 'damp.' Very old house, double glazed, cavity wall insulation, they never opened windows which is all usual but for some reason it was particularly prone to condensation. Fitted a Drimaster (heater version) in the loft and never had a single issue with condensation in that property since.
Likewise with flats, I have fitted the Flatmaster which is ideal for when you don't have a loft space. Cured issues overnight.
If I were having issues in a bungalow I would go full Mechanical Ventilation Heat Recovery system rather than just PIV. In a bungalow you should be able to duct into every room quite easily. You can guarantee proper airflow / exchange throughout all rooms and you will also recover the heat from the rooms. You would not need separate bathroom and kitchen extractors either. I have fitted 3 of these and they have been fantastic https://www.nuaire.co.uk/residential/heat-recovery... If you keep an eye on ebay they can occasionally be had for a lot less than RRP.
Be careful where you position it. Ideally it wants to be central in the hallway but be mindful that you may be able to hear a slight hum at night if it is located close to your bedroom, like being on a cross channel ferry
Had problems for years in a place I rented out, around this time of the year ever year the tenants would get in touch about 'damp.' Very old house, double glazed, cavity wall insulation, they never opened windows which is all usual but for some reason it was particularly prone to condensation. Fitted a Drimaster (heater version) in the loft and never had a single issue with condensation in that property since.
Likewise with flats, I have fitted the Flatmaster which is ideal for when you don't have a loft space. Cured issues overnight.
If I were having issues in a bungalow I would go full Mechanical Ventilation Heat Recovery system rather than just PIV. In a bungalow you should be able to duct into every room quite easily. You can guarantee proper airflow / exchange throughout all rooms and you will also recover the heat from the rooms. You would not need separate bathroom and kitchen extractors either. I have fitted 3 of these and they have been fantastic https://www.nuaire.co.uk/residential/heat-recovery... If you keep an eye on ebay they can occasionally be had for a lot less than RRP.
Be careful where you position it. Ideally it wants to be central in the hallway but be mindful that you may be able to hear a slight hum at night if it is located close to your bedroom, like being on a cross channel ferry
We have one and it’s great. We have the heated one and the air is still cold coming in to the hallway....
One issue you might have is it goes in the attic/loft. You say you have a bungalow- I am assuming you have an attic / loft?!!
I would keep your window closed if you have one so that the “fresh” air doesn’t go straight out that window - you want it to go in to every room rather than seek the path of least resistance straight out the window.
Ours turns off in summer when the air in the loft is hot - so it doesn’t circulate hot air in to the house.
One issue you might have is it goes in the attic/loft. You say you have a bungalow- I am assuming you have an attic / loft?!!
I would keep your window closed if you have one so that the “fresh” air doesn’t go straight out that window - you want it to go in to every room rather than seek the path of least resistance straight out the window.
Ours turns off in summer when the air in the loft is hot - so it doesn’t circulate hot air in to the house.
Just placed the order for the hall adjustable one, hopefully it'll be here Friday and I can get it fitted asap.
Sounds like it'll be the right choice after all the good reports I've heard, our soffits are vented so loft doesn't suffer with stale air fortunately.
I'll be sure to update soon as it arrives, on that did you all opt for the hanging method or joist mounted ?
I'm thinking hanging to eliminate the chance of vibration throughout
Sounds like it'll be the right choice after all the good reports I've heard, our soffits are vented so loft doesn't suffer with stale air fortunately.
I'll be sure to update soon as it arrives, on that did you all opt for the hanging method or joist mounted ?
I'm thinking hanging to eliminate the chance of vibration throughout
Ours is hung, almost silent.
I've waxed lyrical about it on here many times in the past... it proved it self again recently:
We had been having trouble with random RCD trips (eventually cured with a new RCD, even though it didn't test faulty).
A few days on and the windows are getting wet, and flicking the switch where the Drimaster is wired in wasn't bringing sound (it fires up at full speed for a few seconds when switched on)... I get sent up to the attic, sure enough the isolater has been knocked off by the sparkie and not put back on again. Back to dry windows the next day.
I'm also certain it massively reduced our heating bills... although a 300 year old stone house running on oil means even small % gains are a fair chunk of cash, mind you
I've waxed lyrical about it on here many times in the past... it proved it self again recently:
We had been having trouble with random RCD trips (eventually cured with a new RCD, even though it didn't test faulty).
A few days on and the windows are getting wet, and flicking the switch where the Drimaster is wired in wasn't bringing sound (it fires up at full speed for a few seconds when switched on)... I get sent up to the attic, sure enough the isolater has been knocked off by the sparkie and not put back on again. Back to dry windows the next day.
I'm also certain it massively reduced our heating bills... although a 300 year old stone house running on oil means even small % gains are a fair chunk of cash, mind you
GT89 said:
Just placed the order for the hall adjustable one, hopefully it'll be here Friday and I can get it fitted asap.
Sounds like it'll be the right choice after all the good reports I've heard, our soffits are vented so loft doesn't suffer with stale air fortunately.
I'll be sure to update soon as it arrives, on that did you all opt for the hanging method or joist mounted ?
I'm thinking hanging to eliminate the chance of vibration throughout
When using the cardboard template to mark the hole for cutting be careful and cut smaller than the template, the template is right on the edge of being able to fix the screws on the diffuser.Sounds like it'll be the right choice after all the good reports I've heard, our soffits are vented so loft doesn't suffer with stale air fortunately.
I'll be sure to update soon as it arrives, on that did you all opt for the hanging method or joist mounted ?
I'm thinking hanging to eliminate the chance of vibration throughout
You will see what I mean when you offer it up.
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