Is it a tractor ?
Discussion
My car has started to sound like a tractor and seems to be getting worse. I think it's probably one or more of the manifold gaskets. The bible suggests that these gaskets can be replaced by unbolting the manifold and prising away from the engine. Anyone out there done this and was it an easy job. Where's the best place to buy replacement gaskets and the bible suggests using a sealant but not gum gum what else have people used ?
Its not too bad once the engine is out !
Seriously it could prove very difficult - access is poor - it took me a couple of hours and that was dousing everything in penetrating oil for days before hand and even then managed to break a stud. Took a further 2 hours to drill it out and tap a new one in.
New manifold have brass bolts, plenty of copperslip plus I cleaned every thread out before fitting it all.
Best of luck !
Seriously it could prove very difficult - access is poor - it took me a couple of hours and that was dousing everything in penetrating oil for days before hand and even then managed to break a stud. Took a further 2 hours to drill it out and tap a new one in.
New manifold have brass bolts, plenty of copperslip plus I cleaned every thread out before fitting it all.
Best of luck !
If yours is starting to sound like a tractor, that lends weight to my 5 year old daughters claim that my S3 sounds like a Skip lorry....a sound that I must admit appears to be getting even more 'Skip lorry' like when pulling away. (My wife was quick to point out that it takes a child to spot the Emperor is naked). If I ain't blowing a gasket does my car really sound like a lorry...jeeze!
Incidentally, I used to work as a mechanical fitter in a power station and it was common knowledge amongst us fitters that if you use copper-slip on threads in very high temperature situations, it eventually carbonises making it very difficult to undo at a later date....not that you will be doing the job twice, hopefully... no doubt the copper-slip afficiados will argue the point..,Paul
>> Edited by S3Paulo on Thursday 2nd June 18:07
>> Edited by S3Paulo on Thursday 2nd June 18:47
Incidentally, I used to work as a mechanical fitter in a power station and it was common knowledge amongst us fitters that if you use copper-slip on threads in very high temperature situations, it eventually carbonises making it very difficult to undo at a later date....not that you will be doing the job twice, hopefully... no doubt the copper-slip afficiados will argue the point..,Paul
>> Edited by S3Paulo on Thursday 2nd June 18:07
>> Edited by S3Paulo on Thursday 2nd June 18:47
Gaskets from a Ford dealer - see the parts list for the number. Bolts can be removed without shearing, but you need to apply penetrating fluid once or twice a day for about a week before. Then very gently with the spanners! Tapping with a hammer helps, as does alternately tightening and loosening a fraction at a time. Long job, but not as long as drilling out a stud!
As one who re-assembled with lots of coppaslip too, has anyone else heard of carbonising?
As one who re-assembled with lots of coppaslip too, has anyone else heard of carbonising?
Thanks all for your as always invaluable advice. Seems like a b*tch of a job so I might have to leave it to the professionals.
Anyone recommend anywhere near Chesterfield ?
Interesting about the carbonising I always thought coppa slip was the best for high temp fittings now it seems I could be wrong.
Anyone recommend anywhere near Chesterfield ?
Interesting about the carbonising I always thought coppa slip was the best for high temp fittings now it seems I could be wrong.
I would like to clarify my coppaslip comment.... the sort of temp. ranges encountered in power station plant often exceeds 1000c. Anti seize products like copaslip exposed over time to these high temps. change from nice and slippy to dry and gritty despite manufacturers claims for its wondrous qualities. Coppaslip may very well be adequate for an exhaust manifold although it's not used in the original assembly of an engine...that I am aware...Paul.
Cracked manifolds can be repaired - I brazed a crack in my (non-stainless-steel) manifold last weekend, details on the diary in my web site.
Not particularly pretty but it worked, and saved the risk of breaking studs etc - turning a potential nightmare of a job into a half-hour dawdle.
Last time I brazed a cracked exhaust (em, about 25 years ago), it lasted for 2 years - it might have lasted longer if the rest of the car hadn't fallen to bits around it.
Not particularly pretty but it worked, and saved the risk of breaking studs etc - turning a potential nightmare of a job into a half-hour dawdle.
Last time I brazed a cracked exhaust (em, about 25 years ago), it lasted for 2 years - it might have lasted longer if the rest of the car hadn't fallen to bits around it.
Anyone recommend anywhere near Chesterfield ?
Try RT Racing in Sheffield. Had quite a lot work done on my V8S there and always been very pleased with the results. Even my girlfriend - who professes to have no interest in cars - remarked how well it was running after it was serviced there recently.
hi - was n't aware of the potential problems with copperslip - however most manufacturers are n't worried about taking a car apart again.
I used pentrating oil for a about 2 weeks, a combinaion of heat/hammer and tighening/loosening bolts to try and free my manifold and still managed to break one stud.
Reassembled using copperslip and brass bolts - not that I plan on taking it off again !
I used pentrating oil for a about 2 weeks, a combinaion of heat/hammer and tighening/loosening bolts to try and free my manifold and still managed to break one stud.
Reassembled using copperslip and brass bolts - not that I plan on taking it off again !
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