New van insulation
Discussion
Well after much debate for a camper conversion I went for a vw t6 highline and pick it up today and can’t wait to get stuck in . I’ve seen so many ways of insulating vans on various YouTube videos and with so many options I don’t really know what to go for.
Can anyone shed some light on which options would be best, I’m currently swaying towards kingspan/ celotex and sheep’s wool since it won’t mould if any moisture was to get behind there .
If you’ve done it in the past would you have done something different to make it better?
Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
Thanks
Can anyone shed some light on which options would be best, I’m currently swaying towards kingspan/ celotex and sheep’s wool since it won’t mould if any moisture was to get behind there .
If you’ve done it in the past would you have done something different to make it better?
Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
Thanks
Do you definitely need it? Depending how you’re using the van (i.e. in summer vs winter etc), thermomats on the windows help more than anything else I’ve heard of. Shiny side out for keeping cooler in the summer, dull side out for warm in the winter - works a treat, even in a rickety 50 year old van. Bare in mind, depending what layout you have, about 50% of the exterior is glass which you can’t do owt with.
As above though, dynamat is good for sound insulation and won’t do any harm for thermo too, it can be a pain to fit the jointing if you seal it properly though.
My 2p’s worth - save the money and whack a propex in
As above though, dynamat is good for sound insulation and won’t do any harm for thermo too, it can be a pain to fit the jointing if you seal it properly though.
My 2p’s worth - save the money and whack a propex in
Did this last year during my camper build, thread on here.
I used silentcoat first, the some closed cell self adhesive foam with aluminium backing before filling the void with recycled plastic bottle insulation. Finally I sealed all small holes with aluminium tape before sealing the outside of the cavity with a layer of foil bubble wrap.
No problems so far, it's kept as nice and warm during the winter and cool in the summer.
I used silentcoat first, the some closed cell self adhesive foam with aluminium backing before filling the void with recycled plastic bottle insulation. Finally I sealed all small holes with aluminium tape before sealing the outside of the cavity with a layer of foil bubble wrap.
No problems so far, it's kept as nice and warm during the winter and cool in the summer.
Flooble said:
This
https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/products/silent-coat-...
then this
https://www.dodomat.com/products/dodo-thermo-fleec...
then this
https://www.dodomat.com/products/dodo-thermo-van-l...
And on the floor, this: https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/collections/isolator/...
This ^^^https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/products/silent-coat-...
then this
https://www.dodomat.com/products/dodo-thermo-fleec...
then this
https://www.dodomat.com/products/dodo-thermo-van-l...
And on the floor, this: https://www.silentcoat.co.uk/collections/isolator/...
My T6 is warm in the winter and cool in the summer with those Dodo products and I have Silentcoat applied just about everywhere else and it makes a considerable difference.
If not too late order the factory dust seals too, I forgot and had to retrofit them, they work well and make the doors shut with a proper clunk and not a tinny rattle.
Toaster said:
Sounds good also Lambs wool is good for the voids
The OP never bothered to return, but pretty sure wool isn't recommended these days due to moisture/condensation getting trapped and potentially rotting out the voids. Certainly I've read a lot about this in a camper, not an issue in a day van etc where you aren't cooking/sleeping etc.Dodo Fleece is only about £25-£35 a side, I have it in all my van voids.
Edited by anonymous-user on Tuesday 8th October 13:52
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