Toyota MR2 mk2 buying advice
Discussion
Hey folks,
Looking to spend £2.5-3.5k in the next couple of months on a fun car to supplement my motorbike and think I've settled on a T-Bar mr2.
Can anyone give me some advice on what to look for?
It won't be my only form of transport and I'm happy to get my hands dirty, but I'm not a qualified mechanic so don't want to be welding things if possible.
Should I follow normal code of conduct and aim for youngest/lowest mileage/least modded or do these type of cars have a different formula (because people mod/weekend drivers etc.)?
Any advice welcome, cheers
Looking to spend £2.5-3.5k in the next couple of months on a fun car to supplement my motorbike and think I've settled on a T-Bar mr2.
Can anyone give me some advice on what to look for?
It won't be my only form of transport and I'm happy to get my hands dirty, but I'm not a qualified mechanic so don't want to be welding things if possible.
Should I follow normal code of conduct and aim for youngest/lowest mileage/least modded or do these type of cars have a different formula (because people mod/weekend drivers etc.)?
Any advice welcome, cheers
Like you i am not really a mechanic so i can't give much mechanical advice, but i can tell you a bit about the model itself.
The MR2 Mk2 comes in 5 "Revisions"
Rev 1 1989-1991
Rev 2 1992-1993
Rev 3 1994-1996
Rev 4 1996-1998 (I have a Rev 4, and have owned it for over 6 years)
Rev 5 1999-2000
I don't know the exact years so these are guesstimates!
They all have there subtle differences but as a generalisation , the newer the car the less likely it is to wrap you around a tree.
The later ones had suspension changes which meant they were a bit more forgiving.
1993/1994 cars onwards have the round rear lights, whereas the early cars have square ones.
Peak power for the UK N/A cars was in the Rev3 , so 1995 ish. Unless you manage to snag a Rev 5 with a Beams engine. Or a Turbo jap import.
In terms of values , the later low mile cars go for a bit more than 3k these days.
A higher mileage Rev 1 or 2 will be easily achievable with your budget.
I will be selling my Rev 4 soon , but i plan to get a bit of a higher price than your budget.
Its an 85000 mile car and i'm gonna attempt to get 4.5k - 5k
(People pay increasing amounts for MX5s with low miles so i don't see why the MR2 shouldn't be the same
)Hope i've given you some info that may help!
Over and above the usual stuff, check for rust around the rear arches and along the sills.
Plus, avoid cars that haven't been modded by reputable businesses, there are too many "weekend mechanics" trying to get too much power out of these, but that is probably more related to Turbo's.
Plus, avoid cars that haven't been modded by reputable businesses, there are too many "weekend mechanics" trying to get too much power out of these, but that is probably more related to Turbo's.
You won't find a MR2 BEAMS for that price unless the seller has no idea what they have. They are extremely rare and they are very expensive.
You want REV3 or after. Find one in the best condition and that has been looked after. Low mileage doesn't always mean it's decent. It could be low because it's been broken for a few years of its life.
You want one that has had the alternator replaced and belts. Alternators are a pig and getting the correct one for your car can be a pain. My mate had 3 attempts before sourcing the correct one. This were even through places like EuroCarParts, Japparts and Toyota.
You can pick up a poor turbo at that price but it'll cost you a small fortune to repair.
If I were you I'd test drive a Rev3 and Rev4. You might find the performance isn't what you think. The MR2 is a heavy car which people forget.
If you do like it then find the best example you can for the middle ground of your budget as you will need some money for repairs.
You want REV3 or after. Find one in the best condition and that has been looked after. Low mileage doesn't always mean it's decent. It could be low because it's been broken for a few years of its life.
You want one that has had the alternator replaced and belts. Alternators are a pig and getting the correct one for your car can be a pain. My mate had 3 attempts before sourcing the correct one. This were even through places like EuroCarParts, Japparts and Toyota.
You can pick up a poor turbo at that price but it'll cost you a small fortune to repair.
If I were you I'd test drive a Rev3 and Rev4. You might find the performance isn't what you think. The MR2 is a heavy car which people forget.
If you do like it then find the best example you can for the middle ground of your budget as you will need some money for repairs.
I have just purchased one and have created a thread where there is a fair bit of useful info contributed...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...
Ankh87 said:
If I were you I'd test drive a Rev3 and Rev4. You might find the performance isn't what you think. The MR2 is a heavy car which people forget.
.
This ^ .
My Rev 4 is completely unmodified.
You aren't going to win any Traffic light Grand Prix in it. Get used to being overtaken by diesel repmobiles.
You will be the one with the Grin on your face though , the 3SGE makes an excellent sound inside even without any modifications.
There are a couple of braces at the bottom of the engine bay to triangulate things which are lovingly referred to as "cancer bars" for their amazing ability to rot away to absolutely nothing.
The new parts are pretty cheap from the dealer and easy to fit. On my old MR2 the old bars were barely hanging on.
The new parts are pretty cheap from the dealer and easy to fit. On my old MR2 the old bars were barely hanging on.
I’ve had my Rev 4 for about 3 and a half years.
Couple of things to note, the t bar will leak, the silicone cling film fix is super easy and it works. I did mine and it’s ok now.
Check for rust, mine spent 2 and a half years locked away in the garage, when it came out it had rust, so I spent about a grand getting it all sorted. The sills have foam pads inside, these hold water and cause them to rust. Storing in a dry garage does not help. Mines sorted now.
Cam belt and water pump needs to be done, it’s a 4/5 hour job, but can be done with engine in. Mine was done a few months ago, cost about £400.
Try to find one with the t bar glass roof shades as these are quite desirable, also the glass sleeves, I’ve got the shades and sleeves.
Try to get a UK car with leather, mine has black leather and is wearing well for a 1998 car with 118k miles.
You can update the front end with some clear indicator lenses, the passenger side below has been changed, driver side is the old one, about £50 for the pair:
Try to get one that is original, mine is completely original except for the air filter. I’m trying to find an original air box.
Most have a cassette player with a blanking plate, mine has the original cassette player but also the optional original CD player underneath.
Speakers are likely to need a change as they will be old. I recently did the door and rear panel speaks in mine, easy to do, 5” in the door and 7” in the rear panels. Tweeter speakers were in good condition so left them. My car does not have the rear sub boxes.
The arial is auto and they do tend to stop working, I’ve disconnected mine in the halfway up position, a job on the to do list to replace the mechanism, approx £50.
They are not too difficult to work on, I took mine out of storage earlier this year and have done the following:
New battery
New alternator
Front and rear pads and discs
Service
Ht leads
Cambelt
Water pump
Body work
Tyres are staggered and difficult to get hold of the rears, which from memory are 225/50/15. Front are easier to source. I think I paid about ££180 for the rear tyres a few months ago.
Other than the body work I have been able to do a lot of the work myself on the drive way.
They are great fun to drive, don’t expect it to win any traffic light Grand Prix’s, but they will put a smile on your face through the twisty roads. They look good, the pop up lights still make me smile, and it’s nice to take the roof panels out, and store them in the sleeves.
I might be selling mine, PM me if you want any info
Couple of things to note, the t bar will leak, the silicone cling film fix is super easy and it works. I did mine and it’s ok now.
Check for rust, mine spent 2 and a half years locked away in the garage, when it came out it had rust, so I spent about a grand getting it all sorted. The sills have foam pads inside, these hold water and cause them to rust. Storing in a dry garage does not help. Mines sorted now.
Cam belt and water pump needs to be done, it’s a 4/5 hour job, but can be done with engine in. Mine was done a few months ago, cost about £400.
Try to find one with the t bar glass roof shades as these are quite desirable, also the glass sleeves, I’ve got the shades and sleeves.
Try to get a UK car with leather, mine has black leather and is wearing well for a 1998 car with 118k miles.
You can update the front end with some clear indicator lenses, the passenger side below has been changed, driver side is the old one, about £50 for the pair:
Try to get one that is original, mine is completely original except for the air filter. I’m trying to find an original air box.
Most have a cassette player with a blanking plate, mine has the original cassette player but also the optional original CD player underneath.
Speakers are likely to need a change as they will be old. I recently did the door and rear panel speaks in mine, easy to do, 5” in the door and 7” in the rear panels. Tweeter speakers were in good condition so left them. My car does not have the rear sub boxes.
The arial is auto and they do tend to stop working, I’ve disconnected mine in the halfway up position, a job on the to do list to replace the mechanism, approx £50.
They are not too difficult to work on, I took mine out of storage earlier this year and have done the following:
New battery
New alternator
Front and rear pads and discs
Service
Ht leads
Cambelt
Water pump
Body work
Tyres are staggered and difficult to get hold of the rears, which from memory are 225/50/15. Front are easier to source. I think I paid about ££180 for the rear tyres a few months ago.
Other than the body work I have been able to do a lot of the work myself on the drive way.
They are great fun to drive, don’t expect it to win any traffic light Grand Prix’s, but they will put a smile on your face through the twisty roads. They look good, the pop up lights still make me smile, and it’s nice to take the roof panels out, and store them in the sleeves.
I might be selling mine, PM me if you want any info
Edited by RZ1 on Saturday 7th September 01:07
I'm going to be controversial here.
I owned a rev3 turbo for about 4 years, luckily before the rust issues raised their head. The engine was fantastic, it looked amazing and the online support/ resources were superb.
But, having sold it because kids, and replaced later on with an Alfa 156, it opened my eyes about what good handling was.
The mr2 suspension was firm enough to cope with the power, and was better than previous cars I had like fiestas Cavaliers and golfs.
but the alfa, with clonking suspension and 120bhp would cling to corners and was so supple and pointable when driving.
My mr2 had another 160bhp so obviously that would influence things, but it was more point and squirt than being a drivers car, as I felt the power overwhelmed the handling. Maybe I was doing it wrong? Perhaps should have done trackdays to see how far the car could be pushed?
An na might be more balanced, less prone to bite you in the arse and a bit lighter, but at the time I was into the forums, very few described the mk2 as an outright drivers car.
I owned a rev3 turbo for about 4 years, luckily before the rust issues raised their head. The engine was fantastic, it looked amazing and the online support/ resources were superb.
But, having sold it because kids, and replaced later on with an Alfa 156, it opened my eyes about what good handling was.
The mr2 suspension was firm enough to cope with the power, and was better than previous cars I had like fiestas Cavaliers and golfs.
but the alfa, with clonking suspension and 120bhp would cling to corners and was so supple and pointable when driving.
My mr2 had another 160bhp so obviously that would influence things, but it was more point and squirt than being a drivers car, as I felt the power overwhelmed the handling. Maybe I was doing it wrong? Perhaps should have done trackdays to see how far the car could be pushed?
An na might be more balanced, less prone to bite you in the arse and a bit lighter, but at the time I was into the forums, very few described the mk2 as an outright drivers car.
I have owned 3 mk2 mr2s over the years Na rev1 NA rev2 and a rev3 turbo and I would totally echo the above comments, after driving other cars the mk2 mr2 is far from the last word in a good handling sports cars. Although the turbo is still fairly fast even today. The mk3 was alot better drivers car. Many other better options in my opinion. 10 years ago when I owned mk2 mr2s most owners dreamed of being able to a get a far superior porsche boxster but they cost 10 times as much now you can have one for less than a mk2 mr2 I don't understand why anyone would even consider the mr2 at same price point.
mikey P 500 said:
10 years ago when I owned mk2 mr2s most owners dreamed of being able to a get a far superior porsche boxster but they cost 10 times as much now you can have one for less than a mk2 mr2 I don't understand why anyone would even consider the mr2 at same price point.
Boxster is in a different league in terms of running costs, even more so, imo, at the bottom of the market.Would disagree with running cost difference, from first hand experience. You run either like a used £3k car with self servicing or back street garage and the costs are similar. Not going to be taking either to Toyota or Porsche. Its fairly easy to buy a nice 2.5 or 2.7 boxster for budget.
Ian Geary said:
I'm going to be controversial here.
I owned a rev3 turbo for about 4 years, luckily before the rust issues raised their head. The engine was fantastic, it looked amazing and the online support/ resources were superb.
But, having sold it because kids, and replaced later on with an Alfa 156, it opened my eyes about what good handling was.
The mr2 suspension was firm enough to cope with the power, and was better than previous cars I had like fiestas Cavaliers and golfs.
but the alfa, with clonking suspension and 120bhp would cling to corners and was so supple and pointable when driving.
My mr2 had another 160bhp so obviously that would influence things, but it was more point and squirt than being a drivers car, as I felt the power overwhelmed the handling. Maybe I was doing it wrong? Perhaps should have done trackdays to see how far the car could be pushed?
An na might be more balanced, less prone to bite you in the arse and a bit lighter, but at the time I was into the forums, very few described the mk2 as an outright drivers car.
Lol I think that is pretty accurate. The SW20 Mr2 was never a great handling car. The turbo is still a quick car even by today's standards, not bad for a car that came out in the 80s I owned a rev3 turbo for about 4 years, luckily before the rust issues raised their head. The engine was fantastic, it looked amazing and the online support/ resources were superb.
But, having sold it because kids, and replaced later on with an Alfa 156, it opened my eyes about what good handling was.
The mr2 suspension was firm enough to cope with the power, and was better than previous cars I had like fiestas Cavaliers and golfs.
but the alfa, with clonking suspension and 120bhp would cling to corners and was so supple and pointable when driving.
My mr2 had another 160bhp so obviously that would influence things, but it was more point and squirt than being a drivers car, as I felt the power overwhelmed the handling. Maybe I was doing it wrong? Perhaps should have done trackdays to see how far the car could be pushed?
An na might be more balanced, less prone to bite you in the arse and a bit lighter, but at the time I was into the forums, very few described the mk2 as an outright drivers car.
The worst thing I ever did with my Mr2 was try to make the handling "better". TRD coilovers, Suspension Technologies ARB, TEIN Tension Rods.
It went from being not a great handling car to grip, grip, grip, spin
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