Door Lock Relay
Discussion
The plot thickens - The Cobra door locking unit is connected into the immobiliser and main loom by some rough wiring/connections. The immobiliser is activated by the Cobra remote and this function works ok, my problem is that there is a very intermittent (around 1 in 50) unlocking function for the doors.
Obviously I will have to go through all this with a multi meter and try and sort out the fault/wiring.
Can't find anything out about using a Cobra door locking unit working in connection with an immobiliser - seems to be a stand alone unit/function - if I unplug the Cobra unit the immobiliser is activated and car will not start :-(
Can anyone identify the immobiliser? - the circuit board is marked TVR - XP4
Obviously I will have to go through all this with a multi meter and try and sort out the fault/wiring.
Can't find anything out about using a Cobra door locking unit working in connection with an immobiliser - seems to be a stand alone unit/function - if I unplug the Cobra unit the immobiliser is activated and car will not start :-(
Can anyone identify the immobiliser? - the circuit board is marked TVR - XP4
This may help you work through the wiring
I don't know the immobiliser that you have shown above, there is a good chance that the immobiliser is being armed by the cobra 1046 by using its window closure output cable or its LED ON/OFF output, the thing is I can't find the LED outputs at the 1046 connector, sometimes there is a hard wired LED with its wiring going straight in through the cobra casing
Does your 1046 operate an LED?
See below diagrams, the chances are that your vehicles central locking is wired as shown at the very bottom of the PDF (I include the link)
http://www.clifford.nl/pdf/secure/manuals/Cobra%20...
Good luck in finding the fault
I don't know the immobiliser that you have shown above, there is a good chance that the immobiliser is being armed by the cobra 1046 by using its window closure output cable or its LED ON/OFF output, the thing is I can't find the LED outputs at the 1046 connector, sometimes there is a hard wired LED with its wiring going straight in through the cobra casing
Does your 1046 operate an LED?
See below diagrams, the chances are that your vehicles central locking is wired as shown at the very bottom of the PDF (I include the link)
http://www.clifford.nl/pdf/secure/manuals/Cobra%20...
Good luck in finding the fault
The 1046 doesn't seem to have an LED
Remote Locking Unit
Keyless Entry System
Mini Modular Design
6 Wire Central Locking
Total Closure Facility
Self Learning Radio Remote Keys
LED Indication on Remote Keys
Hazard lights flash to indicate lock/unlock
I suspect someone has wired the window closure output to switch the immobiliser ON/OFF, there is a possibility that the central locking circuit has been used to arm/disarm the immobiliser
There may well be relays added and wired into the circuits If someone has used one of the above methods
Remote Locking Unit
Keyless Entry System
Mini Modular Design
6 Wire Central Locking
Total Closure Facility
Self Learning Radio Remote Keys
LED Indication on Remote Keys
Hazard lights flash to indicate lock/unlock
I suspect someone has wired the window closure output to switch the immobiliser ON/OFF, there is a possibility that the central locking circuit has been used to arm/disarm the immobiliser
There may well be relays added and wired into the circuits If someone has used one of the above methods
I'm not sure of the fault you are checking through
Is the fault that the Cobra will only unlock the doors 1 in 50 attempts
Thinking on....Although I've commented "the chances are that your vehicles central locking is wired as shown at the very bottom of the PDF".........Someone could have wired it in differently.....please be aware of this
Something else to think about.......Should someone have run cables from the Cobra to a doors locking/unlocking motor and made the connections in the door, bad connections or broken door loom cables could cause the above fault
Is the fault that the Cobra will only unlock the doors 1 in 50 attempts
Thinking on....Although I've commented "the chances are that your vehicles central locking is wired as shown at the very bottom of the PDF".........Someone could have wired it in differently.....please be aware of this
Something else to think about.......Should someone have run cables from the Cobra to a doors locking/unlocking motor and made the connections in the door, bad connections or broken door loom cables could cause the above fault
I have recently viewed a topic that shows a TVR - XP4 unit
See https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=10...
A poster mentions it being an Alarm unit with Central Door Locking
I now have a hunch that the central locking circuit in your vehicles TVR - XP4 unit failed sometime in the past and that Italamec CDL unit was added to overcome the problem
I am as certain as can be that the TVR XP4 unit includes the following and is a basic alarm system that can be easily replaced
Alarm
Central Door Locking
Immobilisation (The chances are that the immobilisation is of the single circuit type but could be of the 2 circuit type)
See https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=10...
A poster mentions it being an Alarm unit with Central Door Locking
I now have a hunch that the central locking circuit in your vehicles TVR - XP4 unit failed sometime in the past and that Italamec CDL unit was added to overcome the problem
I am as certain as can be that the TVR XP4 unit includes the following and is a basic alarm system that can be easily replaced
Alarm
Central Door Locking
Immobilisation (The chances are that the immobilisation is of the single circuit type but could be of the 2 circuit type)
Thanks for your investigative work (I missed that Meta thread), much appreciated and a great help - this looks exactly like my circuit board and I think you are spot on with your diagnosis of the partial breakdown and central locking add-on remedy.
I was going through the wiring and testing yesterday and found no obvious problems but the unlocking rate of success started to improve significantly until it know operates successfully every time! - I know of nothing I did to get it working again.
However, when leaving it in the unarmed state, after a few seconds it would suddenly arm itself without me doing or touching anything and the remote button functions would be reversed !! - after this happened about 4 or 5 times it settled down to the correct remote function and now does not arm itself without input from the remote - it's now working as it should :-)
Although everything seems ok now, I am not confident this will remain the case - do you think it will be straight forward to replace the whole system to an integrated immobiliser/central locking unit? (any DIY recommendations)
Here is the wiring diagram of what I found
I was going through the wiring and testing yesterday and found no obvious problems but the unlocking rate of success started to improve significantly until it know operates successfully every time! - I know of nothing I did to get it working again.
However, when leaving it in the unarmed state, after a few seconds it would suddenly arm itself without me doing or touching anything and the remote button functions would be reversed !! - after this happened about 4 or 5 times it settled down to the correct remote function and now does not arm itself without input from the remote - it's now working as it should :-)
Although everything seems ok now, I am not confident this will remain the case - do you think it will be straight forward to replace the whole system to an integrated immobiliser/central locking unit? (any DIY recommendations)
Here is the wiring diagram of what I found
I removed a foxguard system from a 1995 Chimaera and replaced it with a more modern Toad system.
If your ok with electrics its pretty straightforward, i can send you the wiring colours that were on my car, its probably the same.
Most awkward part is running the cable through the engine bay for the new siren and fitting the bonnet pin switch but not difficult.
If your ok with electrics its pretty straightforward, i can send you the wiring colours that were on my car, its probably the same.
Most awkward part is running the cable through the engine bay for the new siren and fitting the bonnet pin switch but not difficult.
Belle427 said:
I removed a foxguard system from a 1995 Chimaera and replaced it with a more modern Toad system.
If your ok with electrics its pretty straightforward, i can send you the wiring colours that were on my car, its probably the same.
Most awkward part is running the cable through the engine bay for the new siren and fitting the bonnet pin switch but not difficult.
Thanks - The wiring colours would be a great help (and save me a lot of time).If your ok with electrics its pretty straightforward, i can send you the wiring colours that were on my car, its probably the same.
Most awkward part is running the cable through the engine bay for the new siren and fitting the bonnet pin switch but not difficult.
Has your Toad system been ok? - which one did you fit?
Yes, you will not have any problems in removing what's fitted and replacing it all with a new system
Unfortunately I can't recommend a good system
Going back some years I had the pleasure of being heavily involved with vehicle alarm systems (sarcasm alert) that were all Thatcham approved
The problems I had to sort out for clients did not match up to the great reviews the alarm and immobiliser systems were getting
Apart from on one occasion, I have never wired alarms or immobilisers to any of my vehicles, I had to wire a Thatcham category 1 system to my partners vehicle due to the insurance company insisting on it having one........Guess what happened next?
A few weeks after installing the alarm system and having unbeknown to me (not that it should matter) parked the vehicle close to some transmitter stations powerful antennas, the vehicle bleeped and unlocked the doors then the siren started up.......It never did work correctly after that event
I don't like alarm/immobiliser systems
Perhaps you could start a topic asking for other owners choice of alarm manufacturer, it's all about what alarms are standing up to the test of time
Have fun installing whatever you decide on, most of the wires will be there for your new units to hook up to if you fit them in the same area. Use good terminals, solder and heat-shrink
Unfortunately I can't recommend a good system
Going back some years I had the pleasure of being heavily involved with vehicle alarm systems (sarcasm alert) that were all Thatcham approved
The problems I had to sort out for clients did not match up to the great reviews the alarm and immobiliser systems were getting
Apart from on one occasion, I have never wired alarms or immobilisers to any of my vehicles, I had to wire a Thatcham category 1 system to my partners vehicle due to the insurance company insisting on it having one........Guess what happened next?
A few weeks after installing the alarm system and having unbeknown to me (not that it should matter) parked the vehicle close to some transmitter stations powerful antennas, the vehicle bleeped and unlocked the doors then the siren started up.......It never did work correctly after that event
I don't like alarm/immobiliser systems
Perhaps you could start a topic asking for other owners choice of alarm manufacturer, it's all about what alarms are standing up to the test of time
Have fun installing whatever you decide on, most of the wires will be there for your new units to hook up to if you fit them in the same area. Use good terminals, solder and heat-shrink
laracer said:
Belle427 said:
I removed a foxguard system from a 1995 Chimaera and replaced it with a more modern Toad system.
If your ok with electrics its pretty straightforward, i can send you the wiring colours that were on my car, its probably the same.
Most awkward part is running the cable through the engine bay for the new siren and fitting the bonnet pin switch but not difficult.
Thanks - The wiring colours would be a great help (and save me a lot of time).If your ok with electrics its pretty straightforward, i can send you the wiring colours that were on my car, its probably the same.
Most awkward part is running the cable through the engine bay for the new siren and fitting the bonnet pin switch but not difficult.
Has your Toad system been ok? - which one did you fit?
Will open your boot too if you add a relay under the dash which again is fairly easy, the alarm uses a negative pulse for this.
I will pm you the wiring colours.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOAD-Ai606-THATCHAM-CAT...
Belle427 said:
Fitted this model, toad are very reliable systems.The beauty of installing it yourself is you know it inside out should you ever get issues and need to bypass it.
Will open your boot too if you add a relay under the dash which again is fairly easy, the alarm uses a negative pulse for this.
I will pm you the wiring colours.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOAD-Ai606-THATCHAM-CAT...
Am I missing something here?Will open your boot too if you add a relay under the dash which again is fairly easy, the alarm uses a negative pulse for this.
I will pm you the wiring colours.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TOAD-Ai606-THATCHAM-CAT...
That Toad alarm that you have linked to includes ultrasonic sensors that are prone to causing false alarms
Surely anyone wiring in a new alarm system to a Chimaera would be fitting a proven good quality volumetric sensor under the centre console
Edit to add....
I notice the linked to Toad alarm does have a programmable output viewed @ cable Blue/Black #6 and a phone call to the manufacturer should verify that this output will drive a volumetric sensor
Seen here http://dub-se7en.toyotagtturbo.com/useful_info/OTH...
Edited by Penelope Stopit on Tuesday 20th August 10:32
Belle427 said:
You dont use them, alarm works fine without.
Microwave option can be added but i didnt bother.
I'll correct this for you.....You didn't use them. You did a good job in not using them yet haven't used another form of interior protectionMicrowave option can be added but i didnt bother.
In which case your car is not fully alarmed
Why would anyone wish to spend good money on an alarm yet not alarm the vehicle correctly?
Like Belle247 I also fitted a Toad (Sterling One) alarm/Immobiliser to replace the original Meta that in my case was failing to operate the door locking reliably.
The Toad does require the external door lock relay module but I believe TVR Parts stock these.
The Toad is superior in several aspects to the factory fitted Meta system:
The relays that provide immobilisation are heavy duty items as opposed to the light duty items in the Meta.
By adding an additional relay remote boot lid switching was achieved
It was significantly less expensive than the current Meta replacement
I also omitted the internal alarm function as in an open car it can be far more trouble than its worth
By omitting the internal alarm function the alarm category I believe is downgraded from Thatcham 1 to 2.
The system was fitted 2 years ago and has been fault free.
The Toad does require the external door lock relay module but I believe TVR Parts stock these.
The Toad is superior in several aspects to the factory fitted Meta system:
The relays that provide immobilisation are heavy duty items as opposed to the light duty items in the Meta.
By adding an additional relay remote boot lid switching was achieved
It was significantly less expensive than the current Meta replacement
I also omitted the internal alarm function as in an open car it can be far more trouble than its worth
By omitting the internal alarm function the alarm category I believe is downgraded from Thatcham 1 to 2.
The system was fitted 2 years ago and has been fault free.
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