Vantage door mirror removal

[ukstmoo]

Hi. I have just moved on from 11 years of TVR ownership and bought a 2006 Vantage.
The car is in very good condition with 30k on the clock and a full service history.
The only downside is the driver door mirror corrosion.
I suppose this has been posted numerous times but is there a comprehensive report on how to remove it so that I can get it powder coated.
Thanks
Steve

[Graze01]

try this thread

https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&...

and welcome

any photos?

Graeme

[steveatesh]

ukstmoo said:

Hi. I have just moved on from 11 years of TVR ownership and bought a 2006 Vantage.
The car is in very good condition with 30k on the clock and a full service history.
The only downside is the driver door mirror corrosion.
I suppose this has been posted numerous times but is there a comprehensive report on how to remove it so that I can get it powder coated.
Thanks
Steve

Just going through this myself (as per the link).
Removing the mirror and arm from the car is not too daunting, there are some things to remember though.

The door card has four T20 screws at the bottom and the two Allen key bolts holding the metal handle in place. The handle requires a firm pull to release it.

There are some tights cables that need disconnecting before the card comes off, reach underneath and release the cable plugs before moving the card too far.

Once off you can unplug the mirror multi plug, the fixed glass needs to be removed by pulling gently upwards at the front and then sliding out. Thats how I did it anyway.

The mirror arm is fastened by the large visible bolts holding it in placeAND a small T25 bolt hidden in the window support. Once these are undone the arm and mirror can be pulled away.

The mirror head has 2 screws holding it in place, then it can be slid away from the arm. You will need the special tool in the link to release the cable fully.

I have just sanded down and repainting using etching prime and satin black paint. Not as good a job as power coating but I didn't know you could take the cable plug off at that stage.

HTH and Good luck!

Edited by steveatesh on Wednesday 26th June 19:49

[leerandle]

As above, do not forget the hidden screw that sits inside the fixed window rubber seal.

This stumped me for quite a while, but eventually found it.

Off the top of my head, think its a T20/30 torx.

[steveatesh]

leerandle said:

As above, do not forget the hidden screw that sits inside the fixed window rubber seal.

This stumped me for quite a while, but eventually found it.

Off the top of my head, think its a T20/30 torx.

I mentioned it too, its a T20.... took me ages to find it and even longer to get it out as my T20 bit was too broad to go in easily - I've ordered another one for the other side lol!

[ukstmoo]

Thanks guys for your quick responses. I will have a go.
No need to disconnect the battery by the sounds of it as the electric side is all to be unplugged.

Pics of car. Very pleased with it at the moment.

[AMDownunder]

G'day All,

I've just done this job over the weekend, removal of the pins was probably the worst part, once I had found a suitable torx bit to get the bolt in the window guide out.

I did some research and the electrical connector is made by TE Multilock, they make a pin removal tool P/N 755430-1. They wanted USD140 for it!

I thought that was a bit exxy for a tool that looked suspiciously like a jewelers screwdriver.

However they did have a hyperlink to a .pdf that demonstrates how to use the tool. A small flatblade jewelers screwdriver did the job perfectly. On the side of the connector with 3 wires you insert the tool in the slot closest to the side of the connector, on the other side with the four wires insert the tool in the slot closest to the middle of the connector.

Hope this helps, I'm off to the powdercoaters tomorrow.
Regards,
Raoul