E46 rust proofing
Discussion
Hi all, just after some advice.
I’ve got an e46 330ci, Imola red manual. 92k. I’ve decided I’m going to keep the car long term.
I’ve just had the front wings replaced due to someone hitting it. Only one tiny bubble on one rear arch. I’m just wondering if it’s worth getting a company to under seal / rust proof the car or if it’s pointless? Mechanically there’s no issues as I can do everything myself and all the normal e46 problems have been sorted.
I’ve got an e46 330ci, Imola red manual. 92k. I’ve decided I’m going to keep the car long term.
I’ve just had the front wings replaced due to someone hitting it. Only one tiny bubble on one rear arch. I’m just wondering if it’s worth getting a company to under seal / rust proof the car or if it’s pointless? Mechanically there’s no issues as I can do everything myself and all the normal e46 problems have been sorted.
If you want to keep it it's a must. If kept outside inevitably you will have some rust underneath. Just keep it at bay by regularly checking and treating/protecting/cavities waxing and nyou should be ok. Just spraying WD-40 into the doors via rain drains does miracles rust prevention wise.
Fix the bubble asap - you want to stop the rust while it is still on the surface only. Also spray cavity wax into rear wheel arches - access from the boot - use extension spoit. Remove jacking rubber jacking points and spray liberally wax through the hole until it starts dripping. Best done on a dry day.
You'll have more success trying to Waxoyl the Titanic tbh. But E46's rust from the outside in, front wings apart. The front arch liners must be removed, and spend an hour on each arch lip, cleaning all the s
t out (an old biro is good), cleaning up any surface rust starting and brushing some Dinitrol in there. get the sill covers of and clean up around the square jack pads - they need to come out but they nearly always break on removal so buy new ones. Rear wheels off and have a good look at the rear arches. Rust starts on the edge of the arch lip right up inside. It rust has started (it will have) them clean it back to bare metal with a flexible abrasive disc on a grinder and repaint it. It is a yearly ritual - it was the same with the E36 as well.
t out (an old biro is good), cleaning up any surface rust starting and brushing some Dinitrol in there. get the sill covers of and clean up around the square jack pads - they need to come out but they nearly always break on removal so buy new ones. Rear wheels off and have a good look at the rear arches. Rust starts on the edge of the arch lip right up inside. It rust has started (it will have) them clean it back to bare metal with a flexible abrasive disc on a grinder and repaint it. It is a yearly ritual - it was the same with the E36 as well.ThrottleBod said:
I’ve got an e46 330ci, Imola red manual. 92k. I’ve decided I’m going to keep the car long term.
Could have wrote this post myself!Mine had, boot floor repairs, new cills, rear subframe bushes, and a coat of paint last winter and I am wondering what if anything I should do in the next few weeks before the gritt salt comes out to play!
Interesting what has been said about the cars rusting from the outside, does that suggest getting wax inside the cills is less critical?
Still very tempted to try, but at very least I plan to drop the cill covers off, wash out do a visual inspection of the current situation, and then likely apply some Dinitrol over the top of the raptor underseal which sadly appears to have adhered poorly in some places.
Can also squirt some into the drain holes of the doors and boot lid.
Front wings are I would suggest broadly a consumable item!
Still very tempted to try, but at very least I plan to drop the cill covers off, wash out do a visual inspection of the current situation, and then likely apply some Dinitrol over the top of the raptor underseal which sadly appears to have adhered poorly in some places.
Can also squirt some into the drain holes of the doors and boot lid.
Front wings are I would suggest broadly a consumable item!
Mr Tidy said:
And while you have the rear wheels off have a good look at the metal brake pipes - I got a wire brush and some emery paper on mine then treated them to a coat of Hammerite before they got too bad.
Have you had an Mot since painting them.I got a fail two weeks ago on painted metal brake lines. So I replaced them. Horrible job.
I did not know it was a fail but I am assured it is now.
cliffords said:
Mr Tidy said:
And while you have the rear wheels off have a good look at the metal brake pipes - I got a wire brush and some emery paper on mine then treated them to a coat of Hammerite before they got too bad.
Have you had an Mot since painting them.I got a fail two weeks ago on painted metal brake lines. So I replaced them. Horrible job.
I did not know it was a fail but I am assured it is now.
Presumably it became a fail after that.
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