Pre-Series Morris 8 - This one runs in the Family
Discussion
A little bit of history to set the scene on this one....
My Grandfather was the second owner of this car, and he purchased it in 1939. It officially passed to my Father in the mid - 1980s although he had a hand in its restoration while he was doing his National Service at Scampton in the early 1960s.
It passed to me when he passed away in 2007 and saw some use, but then I decided to take it off the road a couple of years later to tackle a few minor issues....
2 house moves, a divorce and a marriage later, is back on the road, although I've not had a hand in that, realising that I'd never have the time. Thanks to Castle Hill Garage in Bedford, its now running again, and looking significantly better than it did the last time I saw it!
It went in to have the wings resprayed and sort out the running issues (it didn't).
A new headlining, interior bits, tyres, engine (!) dynamo and ancillary bits later, it's good to have it back.
There's a lot of history in it, my Father and Uncle went on holidays in it (from Kent to Aberdeen in 1950), as did my Brother and I. It's been to lots of shows (and I have all of the plaques they used to hand out), and formed a large part of my childhood.
I picked it up last Friday and commenced the task of reacquainting myself with its foibles :
It's surprisingly modern for an 85 year old car - 4 cylinder, 4 stroke water cooled internal combustion engine at the front driving the rear wheels via a manual gearbox. It has hydraulic brakes all round, and even has a windscreen wiper...
However, there are only 3 forward gears, no seat belts, indication is by Trafficators and hand signals, and the 6v electrical system struggles to power the headlights.
I set about the task of trying to put a many miles on it as possible over the weekend to give it a shakedown and get it towards its running in period end. Apologies if you were in the Bedfordshire /Cambridgeshire area over the weekend and were held up - I can't go more than 30mph for the first 500 miles!
Is still down at my Mum's until the end of the month when hopefully having built the shelter for it, I will be driving it the 150 miles to Yorkshire on the back roads...
More updates on various bits of its past and work still to do as and when....
My Grandfather was the second owner of this car, and he purchased it in 1939. It officially passed to my Father in the mid - 1980s although he had a hand in its restoration while he was doing his National Service at Scampton in the early 1960s.
It passed to me when he passed away in 2007 and saw some use, but then I decided to take it off the road a couple of years later to tackle a few minor issues....
2 house moves, a divorce and a marriage later, is back on the road, although I've not had a hand in that, realising that I'd never have the time. Thanks to Castle Hill Garage in Bedford, its now running again, and looking significantly better than it did the last time I saw it!
It went in to have the wings resprayed and sort out the running issues (it didn't).
A new headlining, interior bits, tyres, engine (!) dynamo and ancillary bits later, it's good to have it back.
There's a lot of history in it, my Father and Uncle went on holidays in it (from Kent to Aberdeen in 1950), as did my Brother and I. It's been to lots of shows (and I have all of the plaques they used to hand out), and formed a large part of my childhood.
I picked it up last Friday and commenced the task of reacquainting myself with its foibles :
It's surprisingly modern for an 85 year old car - 4 cylinder, 4 stroke water cooled internal combustion engine at the front driving the rear wheels via a manual gearbox. It has hydraulic brakes all round, and even has a windscreen wiper...
However, there are only 3 forward gears, no seat belts, indication is by Trafficators and hand signals, and the 6v electrical system struggles to power the headlights.
I set about the task of trying to put a many miles on it as possible over the weekend to give it a shakedown and get it towards its running in period end. Apologies if you were in the Bedfordshire /Cambridgeshire area over the weekend and were held up - I can't go more than 30mph for the first 500 miles!
Is still down at my Mum's until the end of the month when hopefully having built the shelter for it, I will be driving it the 150 miles to Yorkshire on the back roads...
More updates on various bits of its past and work still to do as and when....
I've started looking through the history files, but there are fewer photos in there than I first thought. I'll keep digging.... I did find a bill for the last engine rebuild 30 years ago though, which explains my memories of going to shows with the hand written 'Running in - please pass' sign in the rear window.
I didn't have one of those this weekend, although that is still the case - we drove it 170 miles from Bedfordshire to York at a maximum of 30mph. An average of 23mph and 26mpg.
I'm hoping the latter is down to the fact it's still running in, but I'm aware that once it's run in, it's still running rich, so will need a tune.
Think we're safe from the cameras...
Civilised motoring without upsetting too many other road users.
Got back home and intended to drop the oil, only to find that I STILL didn't have a suitable spanner or socket large enough. The sump plug appears to be 40mm.
That being the case, we popped out to visit an old friend (and take some cool period shots).
More updates and history to follow.
I didn't have one of those this weekend, although that is still the case - we drove it 170 miles from Bedfordshire to York at a maximum of 30mph. An average of 23mph and 26mpg.
I'm hoping the latter is down to the fact it's still running in, but I'm aware that once it's run in, it's still running rich, so will need a tune.
Think we're safe from the cameras...
Civilised motoring without upsetting too many other road users.
Got back home and intended to drop the oil, only to find that I STILL didn't have a suitable spanner or socket large enough. The sump plug appears to be 40mm.
That being the case, we popped out to visit an old friend (and take some cool period shots).
More updates and history to follow.
Edited by darkyoung1000 on Wednesday 1st May 18:22
My Dad had a Morris 8 when I was young, though he sold it and I can only "sort of" remember him having it, it's over 30 yearscago now. He's still got the Austin 7 he had at the same time.
He might even have some bits still hiding around, want me to ask him? He's on holiday at present, so it'd be a few weeks.
He might even have some bits still hiding around, want me to ask him? He's on holiday at present, so it'd be a few weeks.
@InitalDave - thanks very much , if you have any parts, they'd be gratefully received - while my dad managed to stash quite a lot of parts (I think I've got 6 spare wheels), availability means that it's always wise to get bits when you can!
@SloppyClock - not managed to get the back end out on a roundabout (not with this engine anyway....) but the power/grip/speed equation is definiately there when cornering.... Maybe I'm just enjoying the fact that it's on new tyres for the first time in my ownership rather than remoulds. As to the smell...that's a tricky one. It's a mixture of well cared for leather, a whiff of oil and petrol but I think it's the absence of much plastic that really gives it the 'old car' smell.
As to photos, I took some yesterday just to post up, so here we go (I'll make a seperate post on work carried out later):
General shot of her in the yard yesterday
918cc of side valve glory
How you interact with it
What you see while you're interacting
A general view of the dashboard
The interior
Wth added privacy!
Fancy modern stuff (just hope it's not dark when you need to use it)
Oh, and for me one of the coolest things....suicide doors.
In terms of this history (limited car content here, please skip if you're not interested), I have my father's log book from when he was a child going on holiday between 1946 and 1951. He would have been 11 on the first trip, and the best way to keep him entertained was to get him to write up the places they travelled through, the odometer readings, and other events. Michelin eat your heart out....
Radlett to Bude (done in 1946 & 1947)
Horesham hove and Radlett in 1949
This however was the big one in 1950....
Got off to a bad start, and I now know the radiator cap isn't original!
Not too impressed with Brighouse...
Trip paused for a death in the family
WHich made the trip the year after seem tame in comparison!
@SloppyClock - not managed to get the back end out on a roundabout (not with this engine anyway....) but the power/grip/speed equation is definiately there when cornering.... Maybe I'm just enjoying the fact that it's on new tyres for the first time in my ownership rather than remoulds. As to the smell...that's a tricky one. It's a mixture of well cared for leather, a whiff of oil and petrol but I think it's the absence of much plastic that really gives it the 'old car' smell.
As to photos, I took some yesterday just to post up, so here we go (I'll make a seperate post on work carried out later):
General shot of her in the yard yesterday
918cc of side valve glory
How you interact with it
What you see while you're interacting
A general view of the dashboard
The interior
Wth added privacy!
Fancy modern stuff (just hope it's not dark when you need to use it)
Oh, and for me one of the coolest things....suicide doors.
In terms of this history (limited car content here, please skip if you're not interested), I have my father's log book from when he was a child going on holiday between 1946 and 1951. He would have been 11 on the first trip, and the best way to keep him entertained was to get him to write up the places they travelled through, the odometer readings, and other events. Michelin eat your heart out....
Radlett to Bude (done in 1946 & 1947)
Horesham hove and Radlett in 1949
This however was the big one in 1950....
Got off to a bad start, and I now know the radiator cap isn't original!
Not too impressed with Brighouse...
Trip paused for a death in the family
WHich made the trip the year after seem tame in comparison!
Thanks all, much appreciated.
@silverfoxcc do you mean the section at the bottom under the odometer? If so, that is the speedo! The early Morris 8's had a fixed marker and a rotating wheel to indicate (approximately) what speed you're doing, but it was quickly replaced with a more conventional gauge with fixed numbers and a moving needle.
The other gauges are oil pressure, fuel, and ammeter (and a stall light at the bottom). There are also knobs for the choke and the slow running control (hand throttle), although unfortunately the latter is broken.
Just got back from adding more miles to the running in tally - in another 50 I'll check the clearances on the tappets, and adjust the mixture and idle, as both could use improvement.
I'm also planning on putting in some LED stop and tail bulbs to replace the existing, as the dynamo output isn't the best, and an 18w draw on each brake light round town has quite the effect! I have replacement windscreen seal on order too (exiting times)....
Yesterday I changed the oil - having established that a 40mm head spanner from a bicycle wasn't up to the job, I got one of these:
So after a quick run to the tip to dispose of.... some old oil, we got to it.
Sizeable!
Not entirely without issues - the large sump plug also means a large aperture. A large aperture means that the flow rate from the sump exceeds the hydraulic capacity of the catch pan....
Blast.
Check out the size of that!
However, once I'd cleaned everything up, a nice refill of 20w50 mineral, and I'm a lot happier. Even better was the fact that the oil didn't seem to be too shiny - I had my worries given the nature of the engine rebuild.
There is no easily accessible filter on these, so the recommended interval is 500 miles from rebuild (along with the gearbox oil which I'm yet to do), then every 1000 miles thereafter. I won't take a photo of every one!
@silverfoxcc do you mean the section at the bottom under the odometer? If so, that is the speedo! The early Morris 8's had a fixed marker and a rotating wheel to indicate (approximately) what speed you're doing, but it was quickly replaced with a more conventional gauge with fixed numbers and a moving needle.
The other gauges are oil pressure, fuel, and ammeter (and a stall light at the bottom). There are also knobs for the choke and the slow running control (hand throttle), although unfortunately the latter is broken.
Just got back from adding more miles to the running in tally - in another 50 I'll check the clearances on the tappets, and adjust the mixture and idle, as both could use improvement.
I'm also planning on putting in some LED stop and tail bulbs to replace the existing, as the dynamo output isn't the best, and an 18w draw on each brake light round town has quite the effect! I have replacement windscreen seal on order too (exiting times)....
Yesterday I changed the oil - having established that a 40mm head spanner from a bicycle wasn't up to the job, I got one of these:
So after a quick run to the tip to dispose of.... some old oil, we got to it.
Sizeable!
Not entirely without issues - the large sump plug also means a large aperture. A large aperture means that the flow rate from the sump exceeds the hydraulic capacity of the catch pan....
Blast.
Check out the size of that!
However, once I'd cleaned everything up, a nice refill of 20w50 mineral, and I'm a lot happier. Even better was the fact that the oil didn't seem to be too shiny - I had my worries given the nature of the engine rebuild.
There is no easily accessible filter on these, so the recommended interval is 500 miles from rebuild (along with the gearbox oil which I'm yet to do), then every 1000 miles thereafter. I won't take a photo of every one!
A little bit of work done yesterday, as my LED replacement bulbs arrived during the week, so I set about reducing the load on on the dynamo.
The existing stop/tail 6v bulbs were either 18/5w or 21/5w depending on which light you unscrewed.... Either way, a draw of 39w every time you pressed the brake pedal. Not great for the battery in stop start traffic.
With the rear light covers back on (2 flat head screws each), they look good.
The same company (Classic Car LEDS) also supplies trafficator replacements - technology has allowed a simple tube with a filament in it to be replaced with 2 orange LEDS that flash. People don't seem to see trafficators (which is why I tend to prefer hand signals...they may not know what you're about to do, but at least you have their attention), hopefully these will help!
I did consider originality when doing this, but I'm not selling the car, all the modifications are easily reversible, and crucially, it makes it easier to use it round town. The point of having a car is to use it, and I want to enjoy the Morris as much as possible!
On that note, I had noticed the mixture was rich having run the car for a few hundred miles. Visible emissions from the exhaust, lumpy idle and a rich smell of un-burnt fuel! Once again, the handbook has all the answers:
The jet adjuster nut referred to is an absolute swine to get to as the front wing is in the way... I couldn't get a spanner on it at all, but then I realised that it could be turned by hand (this took me longer to realise than it should), so adjusting it was simplicity itself.
Finger on the nut (so to speak).
A little bit of adjustment and a tweak of the idle screw on the carb, and a highly scientific test involving a piece of cardboard shows some improvement:
The throttle feels crisper and today when I take it out, I may even attempt to go above 30mph....
The existing stop/tail 6v bulbs were either 18/5w or 21/5w depending on which light you unscrewed.... Either way, a draw of 39w every time you pressed the brake pedal. Not great for the battery in stop start traffic.
With the rear light covers back on (2 flat head screws each), they look good.
The same company (Classic Car LEDS) also supplies trafficator replacements - technology has allowed a simple tube with a filament in it to be replaced with 2 orange LEDS that flash. People don't seem to see trafficators (which is why I tend to prefer hand signals...they may not know what you're about to do, but at least you have their attention), hopefully these will help!
I did consider originality when doing this, but I'm not selling the car, all the modifications are easily reversible, and crucially, it makes it easier to use it round town. The point of having a car is to use it, and I want to enjoy the Morris as much as possible!
On that note, I had noticed the mixture was rich having run the car for a few hundred miles. Visible emissions from the exhaust, lumpy idle and a rich smell of un-burnt fuel! Once again, the handbook has all the answers:
The jet adjuster nut referred to is an absolute swine to get to as the front wing is in the way... I couldn't get a spanner on it at all, but then I realised that it could be turned by hand (this took me longer to realise than it should), so adjusting it was simplicity itself.
Finger on the nut (so to speak).
A little bit of adjustment and a tweak of the idle screw on the carb, and a highly scientific test involving a piece of cardboard shows some improvement:
The throttle feels crisper and today when I take it out, I may even attempt to go above 30mph....
@Bobberoo99 thanks! It's fair to say the maintenence schedule intervals for certain things are a little more onerous than modern cars!... Need to find my grease gun for the next service....
Took the car out again last night for tea with a friend, and ended up chatting later then expected, so it was a good test of the LED bulbs.
The trafficators are excellent, really bright flashes (possibly helped by the fact they're only a foot away from your head). The stop and tail lights are also brighter, and the ammeter shows that while there is still a draw on the battery, it's reduced.
I think I'll look next at the number plate light, instrument light and side lights, to see if the same firm provide suitable alternatives, which will leave only the headlights providing a substantial drain.
Adjusting the mixture has had a substantial benefit, the throttle response is improved, and it's nowhere near as sooty. I am also happy that now the engine's run in, I can up the cruising speed by 33%...to 40mph.
Original side lights
New LED rears.
Took the car out again last night for tea with a friend, and ended up chatting later then expected, so it was a good test of the LED bulbs.
The trafficators are excellent, really bright flashes (possibly helped by the fact they're only a foot away from your head). The stop and tail lights are also brighter, and the ammeter shows that while there is still a draw on the battery, it's reduced.
I think I'll look next at the number plate light, instrument light and side lights, to see if the same firm provide suitable alternatives, which will leave only the headlights providing a substantial drain.
Adjusting the mixture has had a substantial benefit, the throttle response is improved, and it's nowhere near as sooty. I am also happy that now the engine's run in, I can up the cruising speed by 33%...to 40mph.
Original side lights
New LED rears.
Just to come back on the comment I made about my dad having some spares, I did speak to him in the end, and he thinks he might have either an engline block or partial bottom end, and a couple of somewhat battered bumpers. They'd have been at the back of a garage for three decades, too, so I can't imagine they'll be in great condition, and doesn't seem like the kind of things your car's in need of anyway.
Ah well, worth asking I suppose.
Ah well, worth asking I suppose.
InitialDave said:
Just to come back on the comment I made about my dad having some spares, I did speak to him in the end, and he thinks he might have either an engline block or partial bottom end, and a couple of somewhat battered bumpers. They'd have been at the back of a garage for three decades, too, so I can't imagine they'll be in great condition, and doesn't seem like the kind of things your car's in need of anyway.
Ah well, worth asking I suppose.
Thanks very much for asking him anyway, much appreciated. As certain spares are getting harder to come by, having a board is always handy... If my father hadn't put a spare engine aside many years ago, my rebuild would have been delayed by a while (and cost a lot more)!Ah well, worth asking I suppose.
If he does want to get rid of them for space purposes, the Morris Register might be interested (or their members at least).
Regarding this example, I've mostly just been pottering about it it to keep it used! I need to check the valve clearance still, and readjust the mixture. Having leaned it off a lot, I've developed an occasional backfire when changing up, and it's hunting at idle, so I think I've gone too lean.
Next time I take it out, I'll adjust it, until then, I'll just enjoy making people smile as I pass!
As mentioned in the Corrado thread, the reason the exhaust on that didn't get done was time spent on this and the bike yesterday.
The mixture still isn't perfect, but I think having enriched it, I've gone too far, so need to lean it back again by a flat or so.
Having travelled the requisite number of miles, J also need to check the tappets post engine rebuild.
Yesterday however was allegedly as more simple task, break out the grease gun and oil all of the relevant nipples. According to the handbook, there are 21 Enot style nipples in total, all of which require 3-4 strokes of the supplied gun. Perhaps when it was built, but no longer. Of the 21, I only have 20, The one referenced for the front universal joint on the prop shaft is missing. This had be scratching my head, but looking at both ends of the prop shaft, there isn't the type of joint referred to.
OK, one down!
I managed 18 of the others, although none of them were enots, presumably having been replaced at some point in the past. Of the last two, one is blocked and needs replacing /clearing out, and the other one....is an Enot, and I haven't got the correct applicator for the grease gun.
One steering component and one brake pedal shaft remain un-greased for now!
Random nipples.
The remaining Enot.
This took a while to work out, and by the end of the afternoon (having had the bike cause me trouble, I could see why regular greasing got replaced with less maintenance intensive activities. Still, I'm enjoying getting to the bottom of little puzzles like this, and really getting to know the car properly.
The mixture still isn't perfect, but I think having enriched it, I've gone too far, so need to lean it back again by a flat or so.
Having travelled the requisite number of miles, J also need to check the tappets post engine rebuild.
Yesterday however was allegedly as more simple task, break out the grease gun and oil all of the relevant nipples. According to the handbook, there are 21 Enot style nipples in total, all of which require 3-4 strokes of the supplied gun. Perhaps when it was built, but no longer. Of the 21, I only have 20, The one referenced for the front universal joint on the prop shaft is missing. This had be scratching my head, but looking at both ends of the prop shaft, there isn't the type of joint referred to.
OK, one down!
I managed 18 of the others, although none of them were enots, presumably having been replaced at some point in the past. Of the last two, one is blocked and needs replacing /clearing out, and the other one....is an Enot, and I haven't got the correct applicator for the grease gun.
One steering component and one brake pedal shaft remain un-greased for now!
Random nipples.
The remaining Enot.
This took a while to work out, and by the end of the afternoon (having had the bike cause me trouble, I could see why regular greasing got replaced with less maintenance intensive activities. Still, I'm enjoying getting to the bottom of little puzzles like this, and really getting to know the car properly.
Gassing Station | Readers' Cars | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff