What to do with a van with damp??
Discussion
We have a 57 plate Rollerteam (so, CI...) 600G overcab van on a Transit chassis. It hasn't had a hab check for a while until last week when they found a fair bit of damp. ( 
)
It's pretty spongey round the bottom of the garage doors and one side of the main door and starting to go on one front corner of the overcab.
The guys that did the check reckon it's pretty much an open chequebook job, but have too much on to contemplate it. They seem to think it has 3-5 years left.
We were considering selling up anyway but I don't think I could stitch someone up.
Thoughts??
)It's pretty spongey round the bottom of the garage doors and one side of the main door and starting to go on one front corner of the overcab.
The guys that did the check reckon it's pretty much an open chequebook job, but have too much on to contemplate it. They seem to think it has 3-5 years left.
We were considering selling up anyway but I don't think I could stitch someone up.
Thoughts??
A) There are loads of firms advertising they will buy caravans and motorhomes even if damp. (What they will offer you for them is another matter)
B) Stick it on Ebay, mentioning the damp, some people might not be that bothered if the price is right.
C) Get it professionally repaired, this can run into thousands depending how bad it is.
D) Forget about it, keep it for several more years, it is quite likely 100% still usable, my brother did this for several years, then sold it easily on ebay for more than he paid for it...
(Would you have noticed if the inspection had not been done)
E) Bodge (errr repair) it yourself if you think you have the skill, most of the cost is labour.
As an aside, anyone reading this contemplating buying a secondhand caravan or motorhome, CHECK FOR DAMP with a meter, they cost peanuts and anything over 10% is cause for concern, and some are damp after 12 months from new. Just look on Google.
This is why we have just sold ours and are picking up a new panel van conversion in April, our old one cost over £1600 to fix with a small bit of damp at the back and it was only seven years old from new.
B) Stick it on Ebay, mentioning the damp, some people might not be that bothered if the price is right.
C) Get it professionally repaired, this can run into thousands depending how bad it is.
D) Forget about it, keep it for several more years, it is quite likely 100% still usable, my brother did this for several years, then sold it easily on ebay for more than he paid for it...
(Would you have noticed if the inspection had not been done)E) Bodge (errr repair) it yourself if you think you have the skill, most of the cost is labour.
As an aside, anyone reading this contemplating buying a secondhand caravan or motorhome, CHECK FOR DAMP with a meter, they cost peanuts and anything over 10% is cause for concern, and some are damp after 12 months from new. Just look on Google.
This is why we have just sold ours and are picking up a new panel van conversion in April, our old one cost over £1600 to fix with a small bit of damp at the back and it was only seven years old from new.
We own a Rollerteam 700 that also had similar damp issues and had it repaired. Yes it cost us £££ but the depreciation on them is minimal ( ours is worth more now than we paid for it 7 years ago) so it made financial sense.
No offence, but It sounds like the people who have done the test seem a bit clueless. A proper MH workshop will now exactly how long it takes to repair one, and what they will most likely find when they take it apart.
We used a Rollerteam Dealer (Davan in Weston Super Mare) and they carried out the repair to a good standard and warranted the works.
All MOtorhomes get damp in them at some point and their point about it only having another 4 or 5 years left in it, is probably complete rubbish.
No offence, but It sounds like the people who have done the test seem a bit clueless. A proper MH workshop will now exactly how long it takes to repair one, and what they will most likely find when they take it apart.
We used a Rollerteam Dealer (Davan in Weston Super Mare) and they carried out the repair to a good standard and warranted the works.
All MOtorhomes get damp in them at some point and their point about it only having another 4 or 5 years left in it, is probably complete rubbish.
Water ingress is something that is well worth having repaired professionally, you should get 12 months warranty and insist on 2 free damp checks included one at 3 months after repair and another at 9 months after repair (the first to check any residual moisture is drying out and the second to make sure that the repair has worked).
In most cases it is worth the repair outlay as motorhomes (and caravans) hold value so well.
Caravans and motorhomes are generally timber framed structures clad in aluminium on the outside and ply on the inside (there are exceptions to this) and water ingress doesn't just damage the cosmetic interior ply but it can also lead to structural failure of the timbers that give the van its strength.
Although its technically not the most difficult thing to repair there is definitely a skill to it that takes a lot of practice to get right.
What moisture levels have they found?
Its often hard when giving an estimate for damp repairs as its the unseen that stings you, an experienced caravan tech will have a pretty good idea of how bad its likely to be under the surface and should allow in their estimate for a certain amount of time to treat or replace any rotten framework.
In terms of repair cost it can soon add up, i'll list some typical numbers for example:
Labour £40-50 per hour, the techs will want to earn the same rate as they do whilst carrying out standard service work.
The hours soon add up too, between 1/2 hour and 1 1/2 hours to remove and refit a doorframe or window (depending on what it is)
Between 1 and 8 hours to remove furniture and refit after the repair (this can be a real pig of a job as its often fitted before the sides of the caravan/motorhome are put on and normally stapled together from behind!)
Then for each 7x4 sheet of wall, ceiling or flooring ply normally allow another 8 hours to remove the old, cut the new and bond it in place. With pro repairs you often cut out more than just the damaged area to make the joins neat and factory looking.
Then there's the time to replace any rotten framework though that's rarely more than 1-3 hours.
Typical material costs, wall board £45 per sheet, adhesive £18 per ply sheet, framing timber £6 per 2.4m length, adhesive sealant for any reseal work and pointing up frames £9 per tube, primer for adhesive sealant £8 per 1/4 tin, mastic tape for resealing rails and frames £18 per roll.
I think i'm at the other end of the country from you or i'd offer to take a look but feel free to send me a copy of the damp report, any pictures and the estimate, I should be able to advise if its a fair price or not.
I hope thats of help to you.
Btw i'm an approved caravan engineer
In most cases it is worth the repair outlay as motorhomes (and caravans) hold value so well.
Caravans and motorhomes are generally timber framed structures clad in aluminium on the outside and ply on the inside (there are exceptions to this) and water ingress doesn't just damage the cosmetic interior ply but it can also lead to structural failure of the timbers that give the van its strength.
Although its technically not the most difficult thing to repair there is definitely a skill to it that takes a lot of practice to get right.
What moisture levels have they found?
Its often hard when giving an estimate for damp repairs as its the unseen that stings you, an experienced caravan tech will have a pretty good idea of how bad its likely to be under the surface and should allow in their estimate for a certain amount of time to treat or replace any rotten framework.
In terms of repair cost it can soon add up, i'll list some typical numbers for example:
Labour £40-50 per hour, the techs will want to earn the same rate as they do whilst carrying out standard service work.
The hours soon add up too, between 1/2 hour and 1 1/2 hours to remove and refit a doorframe or window (depending on what it is)
Between 1 and 8 hours to remove furniture and refit after the repair (this can be a real pig of a job as its often fitted before the sides of the caravan/motorhome are put on and normally stapled together from behind!)
Then for each 7x4 sheet of wall, ceiling or flooring ply normally allow another 8 hours to remove the old, cut the new and bond it in place. With pro repairs you often cut out more than just the damaged area to make the joins neat and factory looking.
Then there's the time to replace any rotten framework though that's rarely more than 1-3 hours.
Typical material costs, wall board £45 per sheet, adhesive £18 per ply sheet, framing timber £6 per 2.4m length, adhesive sealant for any reseal work and pointing up frames £9 per tube, primer for adhesive sealant £8 per 1/4 tin, mastic tape for resealing rails and frames £18 per roll.
I think i'm at the other end of the country from you or i'd offer to take a look but feel free to send me a copy of the damp report, any pictures and the estimate, I should be able to advise if its a fair price or not.
I hope thats of help to you.
Btw i'm an approved caravan engineer
As someone else mentioned they all get damp at some point. Definitely worth repairing though as its probably still a 20k van!. Our 93 hymer is currently in having a little bit of damp taken care of and to be resealed.
Not sure as to how the Roller Team vans are constructed however the Hymers are allegedly timber free and fairly easy to repair being a ply - foam - aluminium construction.
4-5 years left is utter b
ks. Can you store it indoors for a while with a dehumidifier going to see if it dries out?
Not sure as to how the Roller Team vans are constructed however the Hymers are allegedly timber free and fairly easy to repair being a ply - foam - aluminium construction.
4-5 years left is utter b
ks. Can you store it indoors for a while with a dehumidifier going to see if it dries out?We had a 2007 Very lower mileage camper. It leaked on the roof join to the front of the van cab. Really awfull,but I repaired it.
We just could not live with the paranoia after that.
We sold it on with a small profit.
We will buy a van conversion one day but without any holes in the roof if I can find one.
We just could not live with the paranoia after that.
We sold it on with a small profit.
We will buy a van conversion one day but without any holes in the roof if I can find one.
Wacky Racer said:
As an aside, anyone reading this contemplating buying a secondhand caravan or motorhome, CHECK FOR DAMP with a meter, they cost peanuts and anything over 10% is cause for concern, and some are damp after 12 months from new. Just look on Google.
10%? A quality calibrated meter doesn't cost peanuts and its worth noting that it provides a WME reading which means you need to know the exact type of wood in the motorhome then compare the reading to known dry readings for that wood type. Almost never will you see less than 8% WME, even in the heights of summer.172 said:
I would buy a few tubes of polyurethane sealant and go over all the joints near damp areas first
If you want it repaired correctly I would refrain from doing this, you will many extra hours labour to a prober job.Many years in the game!
I have some damp in my Bailey van, 2005, which actually smelt musty.
Really got me down with online horror stories and cost, so I thought fk it I'll have a crack at it. Two damp patches and I've already replaced the worst area and I'll fix the other bit soon.
Found it very enjoyable, not too difficult, almost therapeutic. Final job will be new rubber for a couple of windows.
Really got me down with online horror stories and cost, so I thought f
k it I'll have a crack at it. Two damp patches and I've already replaced the worst area and I'll fix the other bit soon. Found it very enjoyable, not too difficult, almost therapeutic. Final job will be new rubber for a couple of windows.
Tomm3 said:
I have some damp in my Bailey van, 2005, which actually smelt musty.
Really got me down with online horror stories and cost, so I thought fk it I'll have a crack at it. Two damp patches and I've already replaced the worst area and I'll fix the other bit soon.
Found it very enjoyable, not too difficult, almost therapeutic. Final job will be new rubber for a couple of windows.
Photos etc Tom.Really got me down with online horror stories and cost, so I thought f
k it I'll have a crack at it. Two damp patches and I've already replaced the worst area and I'll fix the other bit soon. Found it very enjoyable, not too difficult, almost therapeutic. Final job will be new rubber for a couple of windows.
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nagsheadwarrior said:
Hi Bill,
Did I sell you the Rollerteam a long, long time ago when I was in Lancashire?
Either way I'm happy to help and am in the trade, well On the Sales side anyway, so feel free to pm me for a steer on it
Hi Jody! You did, 6 years ago.Did I sell you the Rollerteam a long, long time ago when I was in Lancashire?
Either way I'm happy to help and am in the trade, well On the Sales side anyway, so feel free to pm me for a steer on it
We're going to sort and keep it a while longer. Just need to summon up the courage/find the time or get some actual quotes.
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